Engine Oil brand

TXGREEK · December 20, 2019

Whatever the dealer uses, as my oil changes are all paid for in 5000 mile increments.

If you change your oil and filter regularly using any brand name oil of the correct type, it doesn't make a damned bit of difference. Amsoil isn't going to yield any better performance or results than Mobil1, etc...

People like to be fanboys of "Their brand", but in the end it doesn't make a difference... Use the correct type, the proper weight from a reputable brand, and do them on time and don't worry about it...

With all do respect, You’re VERY much mistaken, look at test results and not minimum manufacturers requirements. If it was left up to that specified logic, there would be no need for additives such as protective boosts, everything would be equal. This is why test results should be appreciated and not overlooked.

Different type of paint manufacturers with different additives doesn’t mean you become a fanboy because you’re a Sherwin Williams customer, it’s because you see and love the results, the endurance etc etc.

Guess I’m labeled a Sherwin Williams Fanboy, haven’t need to paint my house in over 14 years, looks like super high quality additives really do work but then again guess that doesn’t matter, I’m just a Sherwin Williams Fan Boy LMAO!

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SquireSCA · December 20, 2019

If you are comparing no name oil from the quickie mart to Mobil1, you might have a point...

But if you are looking at the top tier products, it doesn't matter. Amsoil, Mobile1, Royal Purple, Lucas, Castrol, etc...

So long as it meets the manufacturers specs and is the right weight, and you change it when you are supposed to, you are not going to find a measurable difference in performance, longevity of the motor, etc...

If you want to pay more for XYZ brand because it makes you feel good, by all means, have at it.

There are countless threads on this, countless studies, etc... Same as with motorcycles... everybody swears by their oil... Meanwhile, some pretty exhaustive tests have been done over the years and one of the better motorcycle oils out there, turned out to be the $20 jug of Shell Rotella T6 5W-40, made for diesel trucks... Went up against Mobile1, Belray, Motul and the other "Premium" oils and it was right near the top in all the tests, at half the price... and the Shell wasn't even motorcycle specific... Didn't even have the JASO MA and MA2 certification on the bottle... It does now, because Shell paid to get it certified, but the point is that many people had been using the "cheaper" synthetic oil for years and all the Amsoil and Mobil1 guys poked fun at them, and in the end the Shell did as well or better than most premium oils...

Use what you want. He asked for opinions... In the end, I don't think, based on anything I have ever seen, that it will make a damned bit of difference in the end. The truck will be just fine with any reputable brand of full synthetic that meets the mfgr's requirements, in the proper weight, changed at the proper intervals...

TXGREEK · December 20, 2019

If you are comparing no name oil from the quickie mart to Mobil1, you might have a point...

But if you are looking at the top tier products, it doesn't matter. Amsoil, Mobile1, Royal Purple, Lucas, Castrol, etc...

So long as it meets the manufacturers specs and is the right weight, and you change it when you are supposed to, you are not going to find a measurable difference in performance, longevity of the motor, etc...

If you want to pay more for XYZ brand because it makes you feel good, by all means, have at it.

There are countless threads on this, countless studies, etc... Same as with motorcycles... everybody swears by their oil... Meanwhile, some pretty exhaustive tests have been done over the years and one of the better motorcycle oils out there, turned out to be the $20 jug of Shell Rotella T6 5W-40, made for diesel trucks... Went up against Mobile1, Belray, Motul and the other "Premium" oils and it was right near the top in all the tests, at half the price... and the Shell wasn't even motorcycle specific... Didn't even have the JASO MA and MA2 certification on the bottle... It does now, because Shell paid to get it certified, but the point is that many people had been using the "cheaper" synthetic oil for years and all the Amsoil and Mobil1 guys poked fun at them, and in the end the Shell did as well or better than most premium oils...

Use what you want. He asked for opinions... In the end, I don't think, based on anything I have ever seen, that it will make a damned bit of difference in the end. The truck will be just fine with any reputable brand of full synthetic that meets the mfgr's requirements, in the proper weight, changed at the proper intervals...

I don’t poke fun at anyone, always say buy what you can afford and pay 100% attention to “Lab Results.” You mentioned being a fan boy of Amsoil, independent test results show Amsoil blows away Mobil1’s Annual Protection which is their top oil at same price as Amsoil Signature series, the rest is a no brainer but guess no matter what the actual test results prove, I or anyone else that swears by Amsoil is just an Amsoil Fan Boy because we follow the hype and not the actual test results.

Buy the best you can afford, leave it at that. I was buying Mobil1 annual protection before and switching every 3k miles, guess I was a fan boy of Mobil1 back then too but I’m sure that’s ok then as long as it’s something sold over the counter.

Ok, Merry Christmas to everyone!

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SquireSCA · December 20, 2019

Like I said, I use whatever the dealer sees fit to throw in there every 5k miles and I don't worry about it. It's not gonna blow the motor up because they were slumming it and "only" used Mobil1 over whatever is the "lab proven wonder oil" that week...

I have used Mobile1, Castrol Power-Synt and Shell Rotella T6 on my streetbikes for 10+ years... Beat the piss out of them up in the mountains and on the race track and never had a problem, never noticed a difference, the times the motors were in there for some sort of warranty work, like a bad batch of springs or whatever, the mechanic noted to me how pristine and clean the motors looked, like new inside... So I just don't sweat it any more... Sometimes I grab the Rotella bottle... if they are out of stock I will grab the Castrol or Mobil1 and it just doesn't consume much of my time worrying about who paid for what lab results...

Cheers...

SquireSCA · December 20, 2019

I remember seeing lots of "lab results" and charts and "Independent Studies" back in the day with regards to Slick50...

Just sayin...

TXGREEK · December 20, 2019

I remember seeing lots of "lab results" and charts and "Independent Studies" back in the day with regards to Slick50...

Just sayin...

Again, with all due respect, Look at test results. What are the actual protective additives and Who’s got the highest amounts of those protective additives and go from there and in the end this is what makes the best oil. I’m just saying too [emoji6]

Ok, I’m outta here, getting ready to go Hog Hunting, try out my newest Barrett 300 blackout woohoo!

Everyone have a kick ass Christmas and GOD BLESS!

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TXGREEK · December 20, 2019

Btw, no disrespect intended to anyone, everyone should buy what they can afford. Oil Brands are a touchy subject to most and in the end it’s whatever makes you happy, you’re the one that has to deal with the end results.

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OnTheReel · December 20, 2019

I am a fan of Amsoil and have used them exclusively in my boats for years. To me, that’s a worthwhile place to get the best oil you can get. Marine engines run at full load all of the time, and operate in a very harsh environment. Losing an engine at sea can be a disaster and a danger. And engine rebuild or replacement is much much more expensive and difficult on a boat.

The other factor is I also tend to keep my boats a lot longer, and many of them were older than me when I bought them.

With these trucks, I have to wonder what that payoff point is. They regularly go over 200k and rot into the ground before having an engine failure, and this is done on dealer bulk, or jiffy lube...or worse, hardly any maintenance at all.

If there is a benefit to these short intervals and expensive oils that so many of us fall into, by the time you see it, the truck is clapped out and nearly worthless anyway.

In the “old days” it was great logic to take extra care of the engine. The rest of the truck was bulletproof, and the oils weren’t nearly as good as they are today so you had many reasons to do so. Nowadays I just don’t see it...Better to save the money, time and resources toward a new vehicle because these ain’t gonna last forever anymore. Too many other gizmos that will fail first and basically total it.

TXGREEK · December 20, 2019

I am a fan of Amsoil and have used them exclusively in my boats for years. To me, that’s a worthwhile place to get the best oil you can get. Marine engines run at full load all of the time, and operate in a very harsh environment. Losing an engine at sea can be a disaster and a danger. And engine rebuild or replacement is much much more expensive and difficult on a boat.

The other factor is I also tend to keep my boats a lot longer, and many of them were older than me when I bought them.

With these trucks, I have to wonder what that payoff point is. They regularly go over 200k and rot into the ground before having an engine failure, and this is done on dealer bulk, or jiffy lube...or worse, hardly any maintenance at all.

If there is a benefit to these short intervals and expensive oils that so many of us fall into, by the time you see it, the truck is clapped out and nearly worthless anyway.

In the “old days” it was great logic to take extra care of the engine. The rest of the truck was bulletproof, and the oils weren’t nearly as good as they are today so you had many reasons to do so. Nowadays I just don’t see it...Better to save the money, time and resources toward a new vehicle because these ain’t gonna last forever anymore. Too many other gizmos that will fail first and basically total it.

Nah, I’ve heard of these engines going farther than that but it’s all about keeping it as protected as possible and especially in today’s engines where the tolerances are much tighter requiring better detergents and protection. You use Amsoil in your boats motor due to its far superior protective properties, I use it in all my engines for the same reason you do in your boats. To each their own and Amsoil SS is a 25k for normal driving and 15k for heavy duty use OCI’s. I change mine 4-5K cause I can and feel extremely confident that my engine literally has the lowest amount engine wear it can have and at 30k miles there’s not even that infamous GM click click sound, doesn’t burn any oil and just two days ago coming from the airport I nailed it and left long black lines on the freeway which continuously enormously impresses me. This is by far the best truck I’ve ever had and I’m sure it’s got a lot to do with Amsoil. But hey, you guys want to buy cheap oil, that’s your business, I’m just relaying my personal experience which is what Forums are all about.

[emoji112] [emoji112]

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KARNUT · December 20, 2019

Nah, I’ve heard of these engines going farther than that but it’s all about keeping it as protected as possible and especially in today’s engines where the tolerances are much tighter requiring better detergents and protection. You use Amsoil in your boats motor due to its far superior protective properties, I use it in all my engines for the same reason you do in your boats. To each their own and Amsoil SS is a 25k for normal driving and 15k for heavy duty use OCI’s. I change mine 4-5K cause I can and feel extremely confident that my engine literally has the lowest amount engine wear it can have and at 30k miles there’s not even that infamous GM click click sound, doesn’t burn any oil and just two days ago coming from the airport I nailed it and left long black lines on the freeway which continuously enormously impresses me. This is by far the best truck I’ve ever had and I’m sure it’s got a lot to do with Amsoil. But hey, you guys want to buy cheap oil, that’s your business, I’m just relaying my personal experience which is what Forums are all about.

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Actually he has it backwards. The engines are less tolerant. Better oils and more frequent oil changes are needed to have them last. Cylinder deactivation, screens, external vacuum pumps can’t stand cheap oils or infrequent oil changes. Last I read GM now recommends 5K oil changes on full synthetic.

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TXGREEK · December 20, 2019

Actually he has it backwards. The engines are less tolerant. Better oils and more frequent oil changes are needed to have them last. Cylinder deactivation, screens, external vacuum pumps can’t stand cheap oils or infrequent oil changes. Last I read GM now recommends 5K oil changes on full synthetic.

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You’re correct KARNUT! It’s a crapshoot in these forums, knowledge threatens the ignorant [emoji6]. Merry Christmas! [emoji320][emoji319]

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KARNUT · December 20, 2019

You’re correct KARNUT! It’s a crapshoot in these forums, knowledge threatens the ignorant [emoji6]. Merry Christmas! [emoji320][emoji319]

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Merry Christmas [emoji319]

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OnTheReel · December 20, 2019

Not backwards. The engines being more or less tolerant has nothing to do with the type of stresses they, or their oils are under. My Honda outboard cruising at 3500-4000 rpm for much of it’s *shorter* expected life span will see more stress, fuel dilution and corrosion than most truck engines will see in 300k unless they pull a trailer up a hill their whole life. That is why in the marine engines, the oil quality is much more critical, and the OCI’s are much shorter as determined by their engineers, not some guys on a forum.

At any rate, many of the things you mention in the truck engine have either been eliminated (vacuum pump) or the system’s moving parts greatly simplified (cylinder deactivation) for this generation, but I guess that knowledge threatens the ignorant too.

I was not advocating skipping oil changes or using crummy dollar store motor oil. I follow GM’s standards and recommendations, my whole family does, we’ve never lost an engine.

I simply do not believe in torching money based on nothing but superstition to protect a part of the vehicle that will likely be the least of it’s worries in 10 or 15 years.

Of course the other elephant in the room is that most people here trade in three years, making all of this even less relevant...

KARNUT · December 20, 2019

Not backwards. The engines being more or less tolerant has nothing to do with the type of stresses they, or their oils are under. My Honda outboard cruising at 3500-4000 rpm for much of it’s *shorter* expected life span will see more stress, fuel dilution and corrosion than most truck engines will see in 300k unless they pull a trailer up a hill their whole life. That is why in the marine engines, the oil quality is much more critical, and the OCI’s are much shorter as determined by their engineers, not some guys on a forum.

At any rate, many of the things you mention in the truck engine have either been eliminated (vacuum pump) or the system’s moving parts greatly simplified (cylinder deactivation) for this generation, but I guess that knowledge threatens the ignorant too.

I was not advocating skipping oil changes or using crummy dollar store motor oil. I follow GM’s standards and recommendations, my whole family does, we’ve never lost an engine.

I simply do not believe in torching money based on nothing but superstition to protect a part of the vehicle that will likely be the least of it’s worries in 10 or 15 years.

Of course the other elephant in the room is that most people here trade in three years, making all of this even less relevant...

I have more experience in maximum stress on engines than you can imagine. Hundreds of equipment sold in the land clearing ROW maintenance field. That run maximum RPMs 8-12 hours a day in extreme dusty conditions. I don’t just go by my experience. Being a Amsoil dealer, redline dealer among others we’ve tested for them for 40 years. We’ve never lost an engine due to oil. If you believe engines to day need less care today fine good luck. Turbos, cylinder deactivation, stop start technology suggests otherwise. So do the manufacturers.

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MaverickZ71 · December 20, 2019

Here we go again! Oh well, it's been all of 2-3 weeks since we had one of these. . . :lurk:

You have the right to use any quality 'full-synthetic' oil and oil filter of whatever brand you prefer. Be sure to change it at or before the interval indicated by your Oil Life Monitor. For me, that currently means Shell Rotella Gas Truck oil from WalMart and Wix XP oil filters. I don't use the AC Delco e-core oil filters--there have been too many horror stories of them breaking apart inside and ruining engines. I also like Pennzoil Platinum and Quaker State Ultimate Durability. GM's own Dexos oil is good, too. Mobil1 was top-rated back in the 90s but has since been surpassed in a lot of tests. I don't see the need to buy the more expensive/hard to get AMSoil/Royal Purple/Redline that are overkill for normal use, especially when one considers the questionable quality of the cylinder deactivation system parts (how many on here are on their 2nd or even 3rd set of AFM lifters?) built into our trucks. Not to mention that I'll bet I've added $1000 worth of oil in between oil changes on our 2009 Silverado, and that's at Wally World's discount pricing.

Edited December 21, 2019 by txab