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1 hour ago, LRod said:

It's got a safety on it. Apparently these things have been around forever. I just found out about it last week. I'll be installing it with my first oil change. And yes it's a lever and you drain. And it's got a nipple where you can attach a drain tube. Check out the eBay link I posted above of where I bought it!

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only reason I would need it is if oil was hot, I like to change it when its at least warm.....but it wasn't that bad to be honest, my oil pan I use is pretty big so catches all of it, just shit that gets on my hand/arm...….I would like to drain it as hot as I can get it though....ill check one out

 

one thing about lift is you don't need to lift it for oil changes, lol

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now this with magnet rod inside be dope....my racebikes use to have magnet on drain plug and you would see particles, usually only after the first few oil changes....but it does catch the lil burrs

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only reason I would need it is if oil was hot, I like to change it when its at least warm.....but it wasn't that bad to be honest, my oil pan I use is pretty big so catches all of it, just shit that gets on my hand/arm...….I would like to drain it as hot as I can get it though....ill check one out
 
one thing about lift is you don't need to lift it for oil changes, lol
Yep! I don't mind having to wrench off a drain plug everytime. What sold me on the Fumoto is the fact that you'll never get that drain hole or plug to ever strip because you will never again have to unscrew it. Screw it on once and your done. I wish I would have discovered this years ago.

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I just ordered the intune i3 platinum like 20 minutes ago. I got it with cash reward points so it was free!! I love rewards!
 
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Even more, you’ll love having your truck tuned


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Very cool man. Stop showing me stuff!!!
Lol!!

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Btw, thinking I would be keeping this truck for a very long time, I bought three of these G2 Diff Covers lol


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Whatever the dealer uses, as my oil changes are all paid for in 5000 mile increments.

If you change your oil and filter regularly using any brand name oil of the correct type, it doesn't make a damned bit of difference.  Amsoil isn't going to yield any better performance or results than Mobil1, etc...

People like to be fanboys of "Their brand", but in the end it doesn't make a difference...  Use the correct type, the proper weight from a reputable brand, and do them on time and don't worry about it...


Sorry. Your observed results may be equal for all oils, but they all have different additive packs and inherent qualities that are better for some situations over others. It pays to research lab results for your exact vehicle.
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45 minutes ago, Robotaz said:

 


Sorry. Your observed results may be equal for all oils, but they all have different additive packs and inherent qualities that are better for some situations over others. It pays to research lab results for your exact vehicle.

 

No it doesn't.  There is no magical oil that I am going to find that is going to be particular to this truck in any significant and meaningful way.

There might be cheap, crap oils for sure out there, but so long as one sticks with Mobil1, Amsoil, Lucas, and other top tier brands, I am never going to notice a damned bit of difference...  It's all academic at this point...

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No it doesn't.  There is no magical oil that I am going to find that is going to be particular to this truck in any significant and meaningful way.

There might be cheap, crap oils for sure out there, but so long as one sticks with Mobil1, Amsoil, Lucas, and other top tier brands, I am never going to notice a damned bit of difference...  It's all academic at this point...


You’re refining your original comment to be more logical. Now it’s not any brand name oil of the correct type, it’s top tier.

I’m starting to agree more, but I still have seen oils that some engines just prefer. It pays to look at others’ test results and pick something proven if you have time. 20-30 minutes on BITOG should be enough.
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10 minutes ago, Robotaz said:

 


You’re refining your original comment to be more logical. Now it’s not any brand name oil of the correct type, it’s top tier.

I’m starting to agree more, but I still have seen oils that some engines just prefer. It pays to look at others’ test results and pick something proven if you have time. 20-30 minutes on BITOG should be enough.

 

Actually I am not.  I said from the beginning that when you are talking about quality brands, etc...  Go back and you will see that I have been pretty clear... not just about the correct weight and type, but mentioning certain brands, etc...

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And the OP's question was: 

 

On 12/14/2019 at 12:42 PM, Blong7328 said:

1.) What brands of engine oil every one is using out there. 2.) Does any one have to add any in between oil changes and 3.) what oil pressure does your truck run at idle and 4.) operating at normal driving speeds.

1.) Red Line HP 0W20.

2.) Uses none between it's 5K OCI's.

3.) 44-48 hot idle pressure.

4.) 52-59 down the road

 

80 psi with the second stage open on the matt at 5200 rpm. These are the test block pressures not the dash gauge pressures.

 

That one reads hot 32 idle, 38-40 at highway speeds and 65+ matted

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I would use Redline if I was not concerned about warranty. It’s not certified with GM I don’t think. I’d use the new Valvoline Syn under warranty. It’s hard to beat. Name has changed recently.

 

Redline is a turbine lube originally. Highest spec lube out there for cars. It’s awesome, but only if you get your engine good and hot to evaporate water in your oil. If you drive like granny down to the store and back all the time, I don’t recommend Redline. It absorbs water and needs to be heated completely during operation.

 

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So reading about Redline which I knew nothing of, it's made by Phillips 66. Another huge mainstream petroleum company. So it's better than what's made by ExxonMobil, Chevron, Shell etc..?

By the way, on our airplanes we use BP turbine oil and in corporate turbine airplanes it's pretty much the standard.

 

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