Engine Oil brand

OnTheReel · December 22, 2019

53 minutes ago, TXGREEK said:

And exactly what energy is directed through your drivetrain to your oversized tires? Gears do not take stress away from the motor. Add 500#’s and gears will still not take the stress away from your motor, it’s only reconfigured and btw, I’ve never seen a re-geared truck not have higher RPM’s.

Sent from Above

The tachometer is not the only determining factor of engine wear or engine life (neither is engine oil for that matter)...many a fool has killed an engine (sometimes with kindness) by trying to reduce RPM for a given load. Whether it be holding onto a gear too long in a car or bike, overpropping a boat, or adding big tires, the end result is the same. The engine is being asked to make more power at a lower RPM than it was designed for, cylinder pressures are higher, and wear is much increased.

Especially when we are talking about the various iterations of the small block Chevy, they like to be run out, they need to be run out. More engines die from lugging than from revving out.

garagerog · December 22, 2019

16 hours ago, TXGREEK said:

True story about a guy that changed his engine oil, drove 2k miles and realized he forgot to put his oil cap back on.

https://www.amsoil.com/newsstand/articles/amsoil-saves-engine-running-without-oil/

I believe it was back in the 70's that Texaco ran an ad where they drained all the oil save for what was left in the filter out of an Impala or Caprice station wagon and proceeded to drive it around the perimeter of Long Island, NY with it without engine failure to promote Havoline oil. My point being it has more to do with engine architecture than the brand of oil that would prevent catastrophic failure in a low oil situation.

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AlaskaErik · December 22, 2019

2 hours ago, SquireSCA said:

I have dealer supplied oil changes for the first 40k miles, at 5k intervals, and the contract specifies full synthetic to be used by them.

I just am not gonna worry about it. This entire debate is strictly academic for me.

You must have a lot of faith that the dealer will actually abide by the contract. If they just happen to be changing out the barrel of 0W20 while you're there you're probably going to get something else. That's one of the reasons I do my own oil changes. It's done right and I'm getting the synthetic oil I paid for. I never let the dealer do an oil change on any vehicle I own, even if it's "free".

TXGREEK · December 22, 2019

The tachometer is not the only determining factor of engine wear or engine life (neither is engine oil for that matter)...many a fool has killed an engine (sometimes with kindness) by trying to reduce RPM for a given load. Whether it be holding onto a gear too long in a car or bike, overpropping a boat, or adding big tires, the end result is the same. The engine is being asked to make more power at a lower RPM than it was designed for, cylinder pressures are higher, and wear is much increased.

Especially when we are talking about the various iterations of the small block Chevy, they like to be run out, they need to be run out. More engines die from lugging than from revving out.

That’s right, there are other additional factors but modified trucks tend to add those additional factors on their own, hence the reason for sooner rather than later OCI’s. GM didn’t just one day wake up and think hey, let’s start doing sooner OCI’s rather than later. I’m strongly convinced that these motors require much more protection than originally thought that you’ll only get from fresher oil rather than older used oil.

Hey to each their own. I’ve gotten much more drag on my truck and that’s just from doing a 4.5” -5” lift which becomes OBVIOUSLY clear that it’s working harder.

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SquireSCA · December 22, 2019

14 minutes ago, AlaskaErik said:

You must have a lot of faith that the dealer will actually abide by the contract. If they just happen to be changing out the barrel of 0W20 while you're there you're probably going to get something else. That's one of the reasons I do my own oil changes. It's done right and I'm getting the synthetic oil I paid for. I never let the dealer do an oil change on any vehicle I own, even if it's "free".

Well, if they cheap out on the oil and F something up, it's still on them to fix it. I have the warranty from GM, and the dealer's Platinum bumper to bumper coverage that covers everything except brake pads and tires for 60k miles... I will have probably traded it in on something else before I get that many miles on it anyway...

Again, it's just not something that keeps me up at night...

TXGREEK · December 22, 2019

Well, if they cheap out on the oil and F something up, it's still on them to fix it. I have the warranty from GM, and the dealer's Platinum bumper to bumper coverage that covers everything except brake pads and tires for 60k miles... I will have probably traded it in on something else before I get that many miles on it anyway...

Again, it's just not something that keeps me up at night...

Me too, every two years but even for me, I’ve finally fallen for my current truck, payed it off because I’ve decided to keep it. That being said, even though a good friend of mind owns the dealership, both he and I change our own oil which to me, that says a lot.

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TXGREEK · December 22, 2019

Well, if they cheap out on the oil and F something up, it's still on them to fix it. I have the warranty from GM, and the dealer's Platinum bumper to bumper coverage that covers everything except brake pads and tires for 60k miles... I will have probably traded it in on something else before I get that many miles on it anyway...

Again, it's just not something that keeps me up at night...

Forgot to mention, there are countless threads that complain about crap work performed by dealerships, just thought you should know.

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SquireSCA · December 22, 2019

3 minutes ago, TXGREEK said:

Forgot to mention, there are countless threads that complain about crap work performed by dealerships, just thought you should know.

Sent from Above

Dude... I am 47 years old... this isn't my first rodeo. Having owned 20 or so cars and trucks and 25 motorcycles in the past 30 years, I have dealt with many dealers. I tend to only buy from dealers that I trust, and that take care of me. And due to me buying new bikes and trucks every year on average, they tend to make a point of keeping me happy, because it ensures a lot of return business.

I got into Ducati's at one point. In 5 years I bought 7 from the same dealer. I brought in my friends, etc... At one point I added it up and I spent like $250k of my own money, and at least another $150k in from people I referred to them. The point is, I find good dealers that do the right thing, and they take care of me, and I take care of them. Same thing with the Chevy dealer near me. Between my trucks and my buddy that I brought in, $140k in 15 months. And my next truck will be from them. They are a great dealer from everything that I have seen.

I am not worried that my engine is gonna blow up if I let the dealer do my oil changes and I don't force them to use Amsoil. I get it, Amsoil is "your team"... that's cool...

At the end of the day, today's vehicles are pretty reliable. And while Amsoil might have been much better quality early on, most studies have concluded that others have helped close the gap. I have ZERO concerns that if I "only" use Mobil1 that I am gonna blow up my truck and have the dealer deny the claim for the oil and service that THEY performed... haha

OnTheReel · December 22, 2019

Just now, TXGREEK said:

That’s right, there are other additional factors but modified trucks tend to add those additional factors on their own, hence the reason for sooner rather than later OCI’s. GM didn’t just one day wake up and think hey, let’s start doing sooner OCI’s rather than later. I’m strongly convinced that these motors require much more protection you’ll only get from fresher oil rather than older used oil.
Hey to each their own. I’ve gotten much more drag on my truck and that’s just from doing a 4.5” -5” lift which becomes OBVIOUSLY clear that it’s working harder.

Sent from Above

Of course, my only question from the start has been...what specific benefit will Amsoil bring myself or any other person here with a stock, daily driven street vehicle? 20% ester means nothing to most people here and comes off gimmicky, like a lot of Amsoil’s claims. What proof is there that my engine is even gonna care about that? Instead of protecting against 99% of wear, it will prevent 99.5%? Big whoop, what does that actually mean in the real world and will the rest of the truck even last long enough to see the benefit if there is one? Doubt it, and nothing presented in 10 pages has convinced me otherwise.

As I keep saying, the void between Amsoil and the other synthetics is nowhere near as great as their defenders make it out to be, and nowhere near as great as it was even 10 years ago. And I say this as a member of their “club”, staring at a case of their oil as I write this (another one in the shed too)!!!

I think we are finally getting somewhere between the people who plan to keep their truck forever and people like myself. I look at my truck and see nothing but future issues, and it ain’t the damned motor I’m worried about. It ain’t a Ford!

I have no desire to keep it out of warranty, might not even make that far. If I did plan to keep it, would I use Amsoil? I can’t honestly answer that. But someone like myself has a hell of a time understanding doubling the cost of an oil change just because it’s “better” on paper.

LRod · December 22, 2019

I'll stick to my gazillion containers of Havoline that I bought in bulk, Lol!!

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bshort · December 22, 2019

2 hours ago, TXGREEK said:

And exactly what energy is directed through your drivetrain to your oversized tires? Gears do not take stress away from the motor. Add 500#’s and gears will still not take the stress away from your motor, it’s only reconfigured and btw, I’ve never seen a re-geared truck not have higher RPM’s.

Sent from Above

Math must not be your strong suit? It's very simple to calculate a ratio to a new diameter and end up with the same rpm that a stock tire would generate.

LRod · December 22, 2019

Math must not be your strong suit? It's very simple to calculate a ratio to a new diameter and end up with the same rpm that a stock tire would generate.

I think you have to consider his other facts as well. It's not just a new diameter. These LT tires weigh a heck of a lot more (mine are 64 lbs. a piece vs. thirty something pounds stock). Plus the aerodynamic changes from the increased height of the lift, plus the weight of the lift + components + new tread pattern and shape etc... Lots of factors at play besides the simple math that you are talking about.

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LRod · December 22, 2019

Forgot to mention, there are countless threads that complain about crap work performed by dealerships, just thought you should know.

Sent from Above

I've always followed the same pattern and have never payed a dealer for any service:
1. Only warranty works gets done at the dealer while under warranty.
2. Oil changes are done by me
3. When out of warranty or non warranty covered work has to be done, it goes to a reputable local shop.
Always has worked for me!

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Dunn · December 22, 2019

jeez, never knew people cared so much about their oil...

use to know a few guys that worked in service dept at dealers, they said they wouldn't take their own care there knowing what they know

purchased 4 brand new trucks and been fortunate that ive never taken a truck to dealer, never had a reason too, thank god and knock on wood

Edited December 22, 2019 by Dunn

TXGREEK · December 22, 2019

Math must not be your strong suit? It's very simple to calculate a ratio to a new diameter and end up with the same rpm that a stock tire would generate.

Common sense isn’t yours either, I added additional factors as well. I’m no grease monkey, unless I’m changing my own oil, then things get messy but fun.

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