18 5.3 Oil Change interval

[dclayton]

Bought a used 2018 with the 5.3l with 24000 miles, had first oil change done at the dealer today and the sticker they put on the window recommends the next one in 3500k miles, seems a little soon to me...am I wrong in thinking that?

 

Thanks for your thoughts.

 

 

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[ullose272]

Bought a used 2018 with the 5.3l with 24000 miles, had first oil change done at the dealer today and the sticker they put on the window recommends the next one in 3500k miles, seems a little soon to me...am I wrong in thinking that?
 
Thanks for your thoughts.
 
 
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Ive been using the DIC percentage since they started it. With modern oils and modern engines 3500 is too soon IMO

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[dclayton]

Ive been using the DIC percentage since they started it. With modern oils and modern engines 3500 is too soon IMO

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Thanks. I had 6000k on it since I bought it and the oil life indicator was at 40% still.




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[ullose272]

Thanks. I had 6000k on it since I bought it and the oil life indicator was at 40% still.




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The dic i think uses things like run time, engine temp and load to calculate the oil change. I use a synthetic oil as well.

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[JimCost2014]

9 hours ago, dclayton said:

 

Bought a used 2018 with the 5.3l with 24000 miles, had first oil change done at the dealer today and the sticker they put on the window recommends the next one in 3500k miles, seems a little soon to me...am I wrong in thinking that?

 

Thanks for your thoughts.

 

 

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Welcome to the site, and congratulations on your new truck.

 

I think you will find on here the "rule of thumb" to be 5000 miles for the full synthetic oils.

 

If they change it for free at 3500, would not hurt a thing to do so.

 

[Colossus]

Every 5000 miles - 6000 max- using a good filter. (the stuff at the quick lubes are only good for 2000-3000 miles)  Do it in conjunction with rotating your tires every 5000 miles (get done at the same time) make sure you are running a GOOD fuel additive like BG-44K a couple times a year to help fight deposits which are VERY common on direct injection engines. 

[ullose272]

Every 5000 miles - 6000 max- using a good filter. (the stuff at the quick lubes are only good for 2000-3000 miles)  Do it in conjunction with rotating your tires every 5000 miles (get done at the same time) make sure you are running a GOOD fuel additive like BG-44K a couple times a year to help fight deposits which are VERY common on direct injection engines. 

If you are talking about intake valve carbon deposits, i dont see how a fuel additive will help? The injector is in the cylinder.

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[Jacoby]

2 hours ago, Colossus said:

Every 5000 miles - 6000 max- using a good filter. (the stuff at the quick lubes are only good for 2000-3000 miles)  Do it in conjunction with rotating your tires every 5000 miles (get done at the same time) make sure you are running a GOOD fuel additive like BG-44K a couple times a year to help fight deposits which are VERY common on direct injection engines. 

Fuel additives do nothing for these motors

[ullose272]

Fuel additives do nothing for these motors

Thats what i thought, you would need a cleaner that came in from the intake. Also i believe GM recomends 7500 miles with dexos, i would follow that or like a said the oil life meter. People tend to stay hung up on old trains of thought.

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[Jacoby]

6 minutes ago, ullose272 said:

Thats what i thought, you would need a cleaner that came in from the intake. Also i believe GM recomends 7500 miles with dexos, i would follow that or like a said the oil life meter. People tend to stay hung up on old trains of thought.

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Correct. A fuel additive is fine every now and then to keep the injectors clean but it will do nothing for carbon buildup. Need a top end cleaner for that. 
 

I do oil changes every 5k

[TXGREEK]

I use Lucas Fuel treatment either every tank or every other. My 16 5.3 Yukon had carbon buildup after approx 12k miles, shook a bit at stop signs, took it to dealership and apparently had carbon buildup so they wanted to charge me around $350 to service it by just using a fuel additive. I passed, got home and immediately poured at least half a bottle of Lucas Fuel treatment into it and just after a few tanks the chugging completely disappeared and 50k miles later still ZERO ISSUES, wife wanted something different, sold it, bought a BMW SUV and immediately started Lucas in it too. It was worth a try and glad I did it, I load up on the stuff!
My 2018 6.2 has 26k miles on it and it purrs with zero problems you’d find in a vehicle with carbon buildup. Lucas Fuel Treatment is an awesome product!


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[TXGREEK]

Like I said, I stock up on the stuff, it’s awesome


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[Grumpy Bear]

 

Seafoam:

Hydrocarbon blend < 95%

Isopropanol  < 25% 

 

I suppose if you need a gas dryer. Heat is cheaper. 

 

The BG products 44K: 

1,2,4-trimethylbenzene in 1 - 5%, ( a neurotoxin but soluble in ethanol) 

Naphtha hydrotreated heavy 15 - 40% (atmospheric column straight run heavy gasoline)

Stoddard solvent  10 - 30% (paint thinner / dry cleaning solvent) 

Naphthalene  0.5 - 1.5. (double benzene ring used in mothballs)

Up to 23.5% undisclosed HOWEVER: 

 

MSDS states: There are no additional ingredients present which, within the current knowledge of the supplier and in the concentrations applicable, are classified as hazardous to health or the environment and hence require reporting in this section.

 

That eliminates both PEA and PIBA amines and hydrocarbons. This stuff is Techron without an Amine at twice the price and half as effective.  

 

Nothing above to recommend IMHO and then there is:

 

Red Line SI-1: 

Polyether amine 30 - 50% 
Isooctanol - 1-10% (Isobutanol) 

Aliphatic Naphtha - 10-20%

Undisclosed up to 20% (polyol ester based upper cylinder lubricant) 

Simple ingredients that just make sense. Cleaner, drier and synthetic lubricant. 

This is a great product for neglected equipment. White papers suggest 2X dosing for the tough jobs. This is my problem solver. Also a regular at 20 - 25 K intervals. 

 

Techron, Chevron: 

Distillates hydrotreated light 30 - 60 %weight
Polyether amine 15 - 40 %weight
Naphtha, light aromatic 5 - 10 %weight
1,2,4-trimethylbenzene 1 - 5 %weight

Good bang for the buck. Standard add pack in Chevron gasoline for decades. 

This is my go to for frequent dosing and fuel system maintenance. Once per gallon once every 5K. 

 

Gumout Regane: 

Distillates light hydrotreated 15 - 40%

PEA 15 - 40% (3-aminopropyl) 

PEA 1 - 5% (propyl)

Naphtha heavy aliphatic 15 - 40%

Distillates  hydrotreated middle 10-30%
1,2,4-Trimethyl benzene .1 - 1%
1,3,5-Trimethylbenzene .1 - 1%
Naphthalene 0.1 - 1%

Dosing and pricing suggest this one is on the low side of the PEA content range. No drier, no lubricants.

High dosing to be effective. I use it in my lawn equipment for long term fuel storage both 2 and 4 cycle. 

 

PEA based and fuel tank used these last three are very effective cleaners for the injector pocket of the piston crown in addition to injector maintenance. 

 

 

 

 

Edited November 14, 2019 by Grumpy Bear
Additional content

[Mandalorian]

Really depends on the type of driving you do. For full synthetic oils, 5000 mi is a safe bet in general. However, if you do a lot of stop-and-go city driving, you might be better off at 3500. Likewise, if you're mostly out on the open highway 6500 would probably be safe. 

[TXGREEK]

Really depends on the type of driving you do. For full synthetic oils, 5000 mi is a safe bet in general. However, if you do a lot of stop-and-go city driving, you might be better off at 3500. Likewise, if you're mostly out on the open highway 6500 would probably be safe. 

I absolutely agree with you except for the changing at 6500 mile interval. The majority of these synthetic blended oils are maxed out at meeting minimum requirements. IMHO, Over the counter oils should be changed no later than 5000 miles of normal highway use, sooner for lots of idling and stop n go traffic and depending on where you live you should look into the type of protective additives that are in the oil you’re currently using. Over the counter oils ONLY meet MINIMUM REQUIREMENTS, that’s it. There are other oils that are engineered to far surpass the minimum requirements, I’d recommend EVERYONE do their best at doing their own independent research and you may just be shocked at the very small cost difference between the two, over the counter and high end oils that are engineered to far surpass the minimum requirements


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