Noise coming from the dash

[Moend]

On 12/7/2019 at 7:27 AM, JacobC1983 said:

are you able to see the pictures?

Not really. But tried to follow instructions. And after spending 3 hours freezing my knuckles and other body parts. I came up empty handed. Every thing looks loose but not too loose after fiddling around with the light switch and the fuse box cover, under the steering cover and under the driver side foot well. Didn't find any thing that makes the noise. I decided to wait till the summer and possibly take the dash apart and reassemble it again in hope of finding a loose screw or harness that i can tighten or zip tie.

[JacobC1983]

On 12/6/2019 at 7:26 AM, jay webb said:

The noise may be caused by the 110 Volt Power Inverter Module not being seated properly in the mounting bracket (if equipped with RPO K14).

Condition 2: Rattle, squeak or itch type noise from the center of the dash in the radio area.

The instrument panel accessory bezel may be rattling due to insufficient tension of retainers. Press on the bezel while duplicating noise to see if it is eliminated.

Condition 3: Rattle or itch type noise from the dash area near the windshield

Defroster grill may be rattling due to insufficient retention of retainers. Press on defroster grill ( # 1 in illustration) while duplicating concern to see if it is eliminated.

Condition 4: Rattle, tick, knock type noise from the front center floor or center of dash area (Applies to trucks equipped with center console subwoofer speaker)

This concern could be caused by the radio subwoofer speaker mounting nuts either being loose or missing.

Condition 5: Creak, ticking or popping type noise heard from the left center stack area.  (This issue only applies to Full Size Utilities built before November 18, 2016)

This concern could be caused by the use of an incorrect screw that secures the instrument panel carrier in place.  The screw that may have been used is too long, and it may contact the instrument panel tie bar.  In some cases, this noise may only occur after the vehicle has been driven for a period of time.

Condition 6: Chirp or squeak noise coming from the lower left side of the center stack area.

This concern could be caused by loose retaining nuts on the chassis harness retention bracket that is located below the brake booster.

Condition 7: Rattle noise coming from the drivers footwell area.

This concern could be caused by the IP junction block cover moving and causing a rattle noise.

Recommendation/Instructions

Correction 1 (for vehicles equipped with 110 Volt AC Converter  - RPO K14):

Follow SI to locate the Accessory AC and DC Power Control Module located to the right of the steering column.

See #1 in photos below:

Inspect the power inverter module for possibly moving slightly against mounting bracket and creating the noise.

Remove the K14 power inverter module and apply two sided tape to the module bracket to insulate it from the mount. 

Two sided tape is available through Kent Automotive, part # P40519 which is a ½”x 50’ roll or it may be obtained locally.  

Correction 2:

Wrap Kent automotive BRS flocking tape part number KT13487 over retainers (#1 in illustration) and reinstall bezel.

This will require an application of BRS flocking tape on ten retainers (one strip @ 1” x 10”). Two sheets should repair 16 vehicles.

Correction 3:

Remove defroster grill. 

Apply foam tape around connectors located under grill to prevent them from rattling on grill. See # 1 in illustrations.

Apply foam tape to all mounting hooks in the front of the defroster grill # 1 and apply a strip of foam tape along the edge of the grill to isolate the grill from the dash #2. 

Wrap Kent automotive BRS flocking tape part number KT13487 over the metal retaining tabs that secure defroster grill in position  #3.

Foam tape can be obtained from Kent Automotive, part # KT15103 (40 ft roll) or it may be obtained locally.

Correction 4

To correct this issue, inspect the center console subwoofer speaker (2) mounting nuts (1) for being loose or missing.  Subwoofer speaker mounting is shown below.  Install and tighten the subwoofer speaker mounting nut(s) to 6 Nm (53 lb in).

Correction 5: (This issue only applies to Full Size Utilities built before November 18, 2016)

The screw shown in the photos below may be too long and the screw tip actually contacts the instrument panel tie bar.  This contact is shown as item #4 below.  This screw secures the instrument panel carrier to the instrument panel tie bar.

Chevrolet/GMC models are shown as item# 1 and a close-up of this fastener can be seen as item #2.  Replace this screw with a shorter fastener, GM part number 11547755, which is approximately 24 mm in length.

Cadillac models can be seen in item #3 below.  Replace this screw with a shorter fastener, GM part number 11547755, which is approximately 24 mm in length as well.

Correction 6:

The following picture shows the chassis harness retaining bracket and nuts (2) below the brake booster (1).  Verify the retaining nuts are tight.  

Correction 7:

To correct this issue use foam tape to insulate the IP junction block cover to prevent movement which is causing the rattle type noise.  

Were you able to take some screenshots of the GM website so we could dive into this deeper?  

[nick242]

I had a similar noise and it was the duct that feeds the upper drivers side vent to the left of the steering wheel. It was knocking on the steering column and driving me crazy! A bit of foam squeezed in there has taken it away. Reach under and see if you can make it knock.

[Moend]

1 hour ago, nick242 said:

I had a similar noise and it was the duct that feeds the upper drivers side vent to the left of the steering wheel. It was knocking on the steering column and driving me crazy! A bit of foam squeezed in there has taken it away. Reach under and see if you can make it knock.

Did you take pictures by chance? Also did you have to take anything out to get to it?

Thank you!

[nick242]

I don’t have any pictures. Nothing needs to come out to get to it. Reach in above the column and you will touch the plastic duct. See if you can move it up and down to hit the column. That’s where you need to put some foam in.

[Moend]

8 hours ago, nick242 said:

I don’t have any pictures. Nothing needs to come out to get to it. Reach in above the column and you will touch the plastic duct. See if you can move it up and down to hit the column. That’s where you need to put some foam in.

Thank you. I will give this a try. 

[Moend]

On 12/19/2019 at 1:39 PM, nick242 said:

I don’t have any pictures. Nothing needs to come out to get to it. Reach in above the column and you will touch the plastic duct. See if you can move it up and down to hit the column. That’s where you need to put some foam in.

Tried it. Didn't help at all. Sounds like something coming from the outside and more like metal rubbing

[Moend]

Update# 4

A month later. The dealer called me and said they have not received the parts yet. Waiting on GM

 

I have noticed during colder weather the noise seems to be less, specially if its really snowy. Wondering if snow get backed in between the loose stuff this is my speculation of course.

 

Will report back when I have more info

[Moend]

Update#5

I called the dealer yesterday and found out that they have the parts but forgot to call me. No biggie it happen.

 

Brought it in today had the shock replaced and was informed it is better now. Got the keys and immediately heard the noise on the first bump. No big deal the guys knew it wasn't fixed and when I asked them their answer was (we drove it didn't hear a thing. but with an uncertainty, and denial of some sort) and I told them so it is not fixed.

 

They were kind enough to let me know its a process of elimination and if its still there to bring it back to replace the ball joints (this is what I am thinking is bad anyways).

 

The thing is the guys at the dealership are so nice and I have to give them credit for not giving up, it is frustrating when they have to deal with the unknown. 

 

After all it wasn't all lost, the technician said he heard that I have complained about the column shifter being wobbly and sticky, he asked me if I have tried another truck and if we should go test out a new one of the lot, I agreed and what a different. I showed him the stuff I found on this forum and he check the service bulletin and found it. Now I am waiting for my new steering wheel column.

 

This is it so far guys I will keep you posted if they ever fixed the issue with the clunking noise.

 

Cheers, Moe

[sam jones]

On 11/25/2019 at 6:05 PM, Moend said:

Update #1

buckle up guys this is going to be a long one.

So went to the second Chevy dealer in town and had one of the worst experience - the technician was not interested in working on my truck because it needed a little bit of digging and it was not something that he had done in the past - basically the dude flat out told me he never heard of something like this before and not sure where the noise is coming from and proceeded to tell me there is nothing he can do his actual words were (it sounds to me like just a clunking noise and we will not fix rattle noise because we don't want tie up the shop working on that sort of thing) I was thinking I better leave them alone - curing cancer and what not

 

Went home and thought to myself maybe I should bring it to the last GM dealer in town (GMC dealer) but hey they are somewhat similar, went there on Tuesday and they were much nicer, the service manager went with me on ride hit couple bump along the way and he was like yup this does not sound normal, asked if he can drive it back and sure thing he did drive it back and was able to reproduce the noise over small bumps - back at the shop he set me up with a loaner car smaller suv and told me he will call and update me, he didn't and I decided not to bug him on the count of him saying it might take couple days.

Fast forward next day Fri after work I called, they were like yeah the manager is driving it now with the tech and you might have to leave it over the weekend, we will call you when we have an update.

 

Monday: they called me at 4ish and said they found the issue - a rubber pushing in the suspension that was installed incorrectly at the factory, they have it order and will get it installed the next day.

 

Tue: no one called, so I called at 4ish they said the part they replaced did';t fix the issue and they have to order another pushing and will let me know by Wed.

 

Wed: no call - left them alone and didn't call

Thursday: I get a call around noon that the truck is ready, I go to pick it up after work and what a disaster the interior is filthy and greasy - I was like no problem i can clean a dirty truck, took it for a ride and surprise surprise the popping clunking noise is still there went back and requested to talk to the shop manager and he was different this time, informed me that he drove it early afternoon and the noise was gone - so I took him for a ride.

 

Here the manager start to change his story and tell me they thought that I said the noise was coming from the back - that got my blood boiling and I made sure to let him know. I was furious. long story short - truck is worse now and they are going to e-mail GM and let me know. all what they did is replace couple of pushing over the rear suspension ziptied couple of foam pieces over the hood release cables and that was it - not sure how they managed to make the noise worse but that could be from all the test drives over bumpy roads made it worse. IDK

 

The thing that worries me the most is that I am not sure if this is a safety critical item or not - my father retired mechanic said it could be cab bolts if ball joints and tie rod are not an issue. I don't want a wheel come flying off while I am driving or towing not only for my safety also for others who didn't make the decision to buy a GM product.

 

will keep you guys posted...

i use to work at a gm dealer, and have fix many squeaks and rattles in dashes, first i would try to locate the central area where it might be coming from and then i would take my fist and hit it hard as i could, this might jar or move something around and if that don't solve the problem, i would take my feet and kick the dash as hard as i could, have fixed a many rattle like that, sometimes will remove the bottom cover or glove box and put a pry bar and start bending and shoving things around, try that it might work