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Rear seat removal to access Bose amplifier


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  • 4 weeks later...
On 9/29/2019 at 3:03 PM, JH1973 said:

Here's a PDF showing how to remove that rear seat for you guys that need access to the Bose amp on the back wall.I hope this helps some people out.

 

Technical Bulletin - 2019 Chevy Silverado Rear Seat Removal.pdf 558.87 kB · 85 downloads

 

Technical Bulletin - 2019 Chevy Silverado Rear Seat Removal.pdf 558.87 kB · 54 downloads

There's a video in my post which also provides good info on this topic...

 

 

Ok, I finally got my system installed. I have a 2019 Silverado Crew Cab with Bose.  It hits hard and deep and clean.  I did not want to fork out the $1500 for the JL Stealthbox with 2 of their thin 12'' subs.  I've always had the W3s and loved their clean deep sound and didn't want to risk being dissappointed with their thin subs. So I did a lot of research and ended up with the following:  (PLUS, I saved about $500 overall doing it this way.)

 

 I hope this posts helps clarify some challenges/questions.  

 

Amp: JL JX-1000

 
https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Jx500-Mono-Subwoofer-Amplifier/dp/B0081K3M5G/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=jl+audio+amplifier&qid=1570760485&sprefix=jl+&sr=8-4
 
Amp Wiring Kit: (high quality stuff)
 
 
Subs: 2 x JL 10w3v3 4 ohm
 
 
Bass Volume Knob:  installed up front under the steering column.  Allows me to turn the bass all the way down -- just Bose system playing. Or up to desired level.
 
 
Box: (very happy with quality of build and fitment in my truck) I did apply some additional caulk inside the box where it looked like some of the cracks were missed)
 
 
Wiring:
 
 
You'll need to determine if you have the 'noise cancelling' feature.  If you do, you'll see a microphone thing on the ceiling above your rear seat.  LLJ Customs can provide you a harness bypass plug as part of your T-harness purchase if you do.  I did not have that feature so all I used was the T-harness. 
 
You'll need to order a Line Output Converter (LOC) with the T-harness from LLJ so that you can get clean signal to your amplifier.  I went with the upgraded "active" LOC -- https://www.audiocontrol.com/car-audio/factory-system-upgrade/lc2i/ -- WHICH LLJ will hook up for you as part of the T-harness purchase.
 
NOTE: You'll need to remove the back seat from the back wall in order to run your wires and install the Lc2i.  I don't have a picture of it, but my installer used double sided sticky tape to adhere it to the back wall just to the right of some other electronic box that was alread in there. (there's plenty of room on the back wall for it)
 
Here's a good video that is helpful.  However when he talks about pushing down on the seat locks, don't do that.  I used a long allen wrench to lift up on the hook on top of the locking mechanism which made it much easier.  There are 4 10mm bolts on the bottom you'll have to use an extender to reach.  Once you get them started, you can remove them by hand.  
 
 
Here are some pics of my install:

Screen Shot 2019-10-29 at 2.46.42 PM.png

Screen Shot 2019-10-29 at 2.46.34 PM.png

Screen Shot 2019-10-29 at 2.46.24 PM.png

Screen Shot 2019-10-29 at 2.46.12 PM.png

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  • 3 months later...

excellent writeup @Wakezilla - did you get the subthump box in standard gray or the black carpet? I have a set of JL 10's as well I'm looking to install in my truck in the same box with the JJL harness that comes with the link2. I had the LC2 in my F150 platinum and it sounded pretty good with 2x10' kickers so I'm going to try this Link 2 out this time. only difference in setup between us would be my Phoenix Gold amp that I'm bringing over with the subs from a F150 company vehicle I just had- finally got the approval for a vehicle allowance so I went ahead and got a new AT4.

Also, how's the sound so far? Definitely looking for these JL's to beat up my back with clean punchy bass while hitting the lows and not sounding muddy. 

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I have the stealthbox and a JL hd750/1 in my crew cab at4 and am not happy with the sound I’m thinking of selling the stealth box and going with 1 10W7 ported with my 759/1 on it should be what I’m looking for. 

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3 hours ago, Jon coulson said:

I have the stealthbox and a JL hd750/1 in my crew cab at4 and am not happy with the sound I’m thinking of selling the stealth box and going with 1 10W7 ported with my 759/1 on it should be what I’m looking for. 

Would you mind sharing your experience with the stealthbox? What about it are you not happy with?

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  • 1 year later...
On 9/29/2019 at 2:03 PM, JH1973 said:

Here's a PDF showing how to remove that rear seat for you guys that need access to the Bose amp on the back wall.I hope this helps some people out.

 

Technical Bulletin - 2019 Chevy Silverado Rear Seat Removal.pdf 558.87 kB · 1,775 downloads

 

Technical Bulletin - 2019 Chevy Silverado Rear Seat Removal.pdf 558.87 kB · 792 downloads

Where did you run the power wire for the amp?

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  • 1 year later...
On 10/29/2019 at 1:16 PM, Wakezilla said:

There's a video in my post which also provides good info on this topic...

 

 

Ok, I finally got my system installed. I have a 2019 Silverado Crew Cab with Bose.  It hits hard and deep and clean.  I did not want to fork out the $1500 for the JL Stealthbox with 2 of their thin 12'' subs.  I've always had the W3s and loved their clean deep sound and didn't want to risk being dissappointed with their thin subs. So I did a lot of research and ended up with the following:  (PLUS, I saved about $500 overall doing it this way.)

 

 I hope this posts helps clarify some challenges/questions.  

 

Amp: JL JX-1000

 
https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Jx500-Mono-Subwoofer-Amplifier/dp/B0081K3M5G/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=jl+audio+amplifier&qid=1570760485&sprefix=jl+&sr=8-4
 
Amp Wiring Kit: (high quality stuff)
 
 
Subs: 2 x JL 10w3v3 4 ohm
 
 
Bass Volume Knob:  installed up front under the steering column.  Allows me to turn the bass all the way down -- just Bose system playing. Or up to desired level.
 
 
Box: (very happy with quality of build and fitment in my truck) I did apply some additional caulk inside the box where it looked like some of the cracks were missed)
 
 
Wiring:
 
 
You'll need to determine if you have the 'noise cancelling' feature.  If you do, you'll see a microphone thing on the ceiling above your rear seat.  LLJ Customs can provide you a harness bypass plug as part of your T-harness purchase if you do.  I did not have that feature so all I used was the T-harness. 
 
You'll need to order a Line Output Converter (LOC) with the T-harness from LLJ so that you can get clean signal to your amplifier.  I went with the upgraded "active" LOC -- https://www.audiocontrol.com/car-audio/factory-system-upgrade/lc2i/ -- WHICH LLJ will hook up for you as part of the T-harness purchase.
 
NOTE: You'll need to remove the back seat from the back wall in order to run your wires and install the Lc2i.  I don't have a picture of it, but my installer used double sided sticky tape to adhere it to the back wall just to the right of some other electronic box that was alread in there. (there's plenty of room on the back wall for it)
 
Here's a good video that is helpful.  However when he talks about pushing down on the seat locks, don't do that.  I used a long allen wrench to lift up on the hook on top of the locking mechanism which made it much easier.  There are 4 10mm bolts on the bottom you'll have to use an extender to reach.  Once you get them started, you can remove them by hand.  
 
 
Here are some pics of my install:

Screen Shot 2019-10-29 at 2.46.42 PM.png

Screen Shot 2019-10-29 at 2.46.34 PM.png

Screen Shot 2019-10-29 at 2.46.24 PM.png

Screen Shot 2019-10-29 at 2.46.12 PM.png

Do you have information on the wiring diagrams for the amps? Trying to find what wires go to what speaker ! Thanks!

 

you can always text me if you can! (208) 963-2849  

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