Recall - Vacuum Pump May Decrease Power Brake Assist

[Grumpy Bear]

On 11/10/2019 at 5:33 PM, Eddie 70 said:

I had the recall done on my 14 this past Friday. I drove the truck home and today, Sunday was the first time I have been back in the truck. My check engine light was on. I finished what I was doing today. Several starts and stops over the day and still the check engine light is on. Tonight I checked the codes and it was P0430 and P0171. I cleared the codes, scanned the truck again. No codes. Started the truck, check engine light gone and no codes.

 

P0171 says it could be a weak fuel system or vacuum leak. Could that have been caused by the recall? That is the first time I have had any lights on the dash and it just happens to be after the dealer worked on it. Coincidence?

I've noticed, for what it's worth, that anytime a sensor is unplugged and plugged back in it will toss some random code or cause some abnormal operating situation for one key cycle. Grounding perhaps? 

Edited November 12, 2019 by Grumpy Bear

[1SLOW1500]

Many sensors work on a 5volt reference system do the value of the voltage is the sensors data value. And they share ground. So yes one cycle or a reset. Worse when you start vehicle with one unplugged then the computer needs to relearn those values, I believe that is because it assumes that the missing value is true and starts to change the tune. Then has to relearn its mistake. Or at least this is what I have seen between the maf,iat,map(maf) and intake manifold map. They all try to work together for baro and throttle % for air value.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

[Grumpy Bear]

46 minutes ago, 1SLOW1500 said:

Many sensors work on a 5volt reference system do the value of the voltage is the sensors data value. And they share ground. So yes one cycle or a reset. Worse when you start vehicle with one unplugged then the computer needs to relearn those values, I believe that is because it assumes that the missing value is true and starts to change the tune. Then has to relearn its mistake. Or at least this is what I have seen between the maf,iat,map(maf) and intake manifold map. They all try to work together for baro and throttle % for air value.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 

Unplugged my MAF once to remove the inlet plumbing and the next start had the oil pump second stage on continuously for that key cycle. Weird the things that will happen if you mess with the reference voltage. 

[jumpinjoe]

All this in the last several posts is why for several years I've always made up a 'jumper' of sorts to prevent losing all the pre-sets in my trucks when I have to disconnect something or especially when replacing a battery. Once you pull that negative cable off the post, all the voltage is lost to the ecm and most everywhere else. It's just like any other reset of the ecm and you're apt to lose radio station pre-sets, seat positioning, mirror repositioning, and anything else that you've set to your liking. I think there is a few learned settings that will hold up, but since I'm never quite sure which will survive and which won't, I just try to protect them all.

 

What I do is this ............. get a male 12VDC plug; you know the ones that will fit into what used to be a cigarette lighter. Then add a couple feet of reasonably sized wire (maybe 12 ga) for the plug, and positively mark the hot (center probe) and the negative (metal tang on the side) wires. Then get your 'jump box' or another 12vdc battery, like out of your lawn mower or maybe an ATV just sittin' around the house doin' absolutely nobody any good at the moment.

 

When it comes time to actually replace the truck battery, just put the 'jump box' or other battery on the front floor. Plug the 12vdc male plug into any 12vdc receptacle that is not switched with the ignition key. Next, connect the positive side of your 'jump box' to the wire identified as the positive/hot on the plug, then the negative side to the negative/ground wire from the plug. Once you've done this, you can go outside and disconnect the truck battery for replacement and not have to worry about anything losing it's pre-set or learned setting.

 

We all know this safety tip, but just a reminder to ALWAYS, always disconnect the battery's negative/ground cable first, then disconnect the battery's positive/hot cable last. Once you've replaced the truck battery, ALWAYS, always reconnect the positive/hot cable first, then connect the negative/ground cable last. Now, go back inside the truck and unplug the 12vdc plug, disconnect the jump box from the wires coming out of the 12vdc plug, and you're done.

 

That is of course if you didn't take a smaller 12vdc battery out of your wife's ATV that was just sittin' around the house not doin' absolutely any good for anybody, and in hopes she wouldn't notice before you get it put back in. Well, take it from one who didn't get it back into her ATV before she returned from the store, that ain't a good situation. She was all grins and giggles telling me about all the stuff she found on sale when she realized I had her ATV kinda torn apart and her battery setting on the driveway. Let's just say the grins and giggles stopped and she said I'd better damned well have that ATV running with the battery in it by the time she came back outside after putting her shopping bags down.

 

But then when she came back out and I explained to her the only reason her ATV battery was out was because right after she left to go shopping I tried to crank her ATV to take around back and wash it for her as a surprise, but found the battery dead. So, being the ever thoughtful husband I am I rushed right down to the parts house and bought her a new battery. I was rushing as hard as I could to get it back in before she returned from shopping, but my truck had started acting up and I just simply ran out of time. She bought the story thankfully, but then she's the kind of wife who will buy two items on sale at 50% off each, and swear up and down she got those two items for nothing.

 

All's well that ends well though I guess. I got the battery replaced in my truck without losing any pre-sets, convinced the wife I was doing everything I could to get her ATV washed before she returned, oh yeh, as a 'surprise' for her, (don't ever forget the 'surprise' part), wives just love surprises. In fact she surprised me later that night. After dinner, she smiled at me coyly and said she had a surprise for me when it came time to go to bed. Naturally all excited (I thought to myself I had pulled off the biggest one yet) when she threw a blanket and a pillow at me and told me to sleep on the damned sofa until I could learn to tell a new battery from a used one. Totally off balance I asked what she meant ........... she said "well if you couldn't see that the battery they gave you down at the parts house for my ATV was a used one, you certainly don't deserve to have your batteries recharged tonight." Wives, I'll never understand them. Fact is you can't live with them ............ and you can't kill them! LOL, LOL!

 

Regards,

jumpinjoe

Edited November 13, 2019 by jumpinjoe
typo's

[CKNSLS]

Years ago they just used  9 volt battery (the little square ones smoke detectors use) and plug one of those in with an adapter in to the cigarette lighter. I don't know if that would still work today.

Edited November 13, 2019 by CKNSLS

[jumpinjoe]

Yeh, I also used to use a 9vdc battery (the little rectangle ones) with an adapter, but the last truck of mine that worked in was a '98 Silverado 4X4. Then I tried it in my '06 Silverado and it kept indicating low battery somehow. That's funny, I don't even remember how I determined it was indicating 'low battery' in the '06. Actually I had an '06 Silverado and an '06 Sierra at the same time, and for the life of me can't remember which one this involved. Doesn't really matter, somehow I got the message the 9 volts just wasn't going to cut it.

 

It might even have been that I lost all those pre-sets and realized it just wasn't going to cut it with any newer trucks.That's when I started using the 12vdc jump box (or a small equipment battery if there was one laying around not doing anything). It may be that while I had those two trucks I ended up replacing batteries in both of them ............. I dunno for sure'.

 

Short story, I was driving a 2006 Silverado when my dad passed away and left me his 2006 Sierra. So, for a period of time I had them both. That was in 2014 I think. I ultimately sold the Sierra and a couple months later found the 2014 Silverado I'm driving now. Traded my '06 Silverado for the '14 and so far love it. But then a few days ago I had to put a battery in it. The one I replaced was OEM I'm pretty sure so that would mean it lasted about 5 years. I think both the '06's had been replaced once before I got them.

 

All I know for sure is to make sure you clean off any used battery you're going to be putting back into the wife's ATV before she sees it or figure you'll be sleeping on the sofa. LOL!

[flyingfool]

just curious but if you have a failing vac pump, and its making noise, dose this mean its tearing it's self apart and causing metal debris to get injested into the engine?

[jumpinjoe]

Son, I can't say for sure that's the case, but from everything I've read and heard, that pretty much sums it up. And once it starts making any noise, it's already on it's way out. The sooner you can get it replaced, the better. As I understand it, when it starts to go it's bypassing oil and metal debris into the vacuum booster and potentially on in to the engine on your truck which you don't want.

 

If you're hearing that pump, you ought to get it down to your dealer or favorite 'fix-it' shop asap. The dealer will provide you with appropriate forms and help you complete them if there is any compensation due you. As a matter of fact, I just got a set of forms  today in the mail from "Chevrolet". I don't qualify for any repay though, as I'm way away from the 10 yr or 150K mile extended guarantee now offered.

 

Hopefully won't ever need it either. I just had the recall done where they reprogram the ECM to the new parameters for the vacuum pump about a month ago. I probably would prefer the new pump, but they won't consider it at this point. I've got only about 21K miles on my truck so the pump hasn't seen a whole lot of wear. I just cringe at the idea of anything major going wrong with either one of my vehicles now that I'm no longer able to work on it myself. I've never felt that nobody else could do any work needed on my vehicles as well as I could, but I've always known that I could never be certain exactly what somebody else has done as when I did it myself.

 

Those days are gone now at my age and health, but I still hate the idea of it. Fortunately I have a couple close friends whom I trust like family to get me through whatever I might need and can't do it myself. In your case if the pump is noisy, I'd sure recommend taking it to somebody you know/trust to be straight with you and get their opinion.

 

Regards,

jumpinjoe

[Moose 91]

I took my 2017 Silverado in this past Sat for the reprogram, then a few days later was in bumper to bumper traffic and the brakes wouldn’t work (no vacuum at low speeds), almost wrecked.  Just took it to the dealer and they said they have been waiting 2 weeks for vacuum pumps for other vehicles.  So now I will be without a truck for a while.  They said they would give me a loaner “car” but I need a truck to haul something this week.  GM is treading on thin ice 

[Darkwolf7]

Anyone have any luck getting reimbursed for there home repair?  I just filled out my paperwork and sent it in for reimbursement.  All paperwork must be submitted by the end of November. 

[CurtK]

12 hours ago, Darkwolf7 said:

Anyone have any luck getting reimbursed for there home repair?  I just filled out my paperwork and sent it in for reimbursement.  All paperwork must be submitted by the end of November. 

I wouldn't worry too much about the "deadline" for submission, especially considering the most recent 10yr/150k adjustment. If you're like me, you've gotten more than one of these in the mail pertaining to this issue. I believe the first one I got was October 2018 stating the following..."The completed form and required documents must be presented to your dealer or received by the Reimbursement Department by September 30, 2019."  My next notice was dated April 2019 with language reflecting a 6yr/72k no charge repair and the "deadline" had changed to June 30, 2020. I would rather err on the side of caution and get this reimbursement paperwork in the mail sooner than later, but I can't imagine it will have a hard cut-off date with the most recent developments, (i.e., 10yr/150K)

[Eddie 70]

On 11/10/2019 at 6:33 PM, Eddie 70 said:

I had the recall done on my 14 this past Friday. I drove the truck home and today, Sunday was the first time I have been back in the truck. My check engine light was on. I finished what I was doing today. Several starts and stops over the day and still the check engine light is on. Tonight I checked the codes and it was P0430 and P0171. I cleared the codes, scanned the truck again. No codes. Started the truck, check engine light gone and no codes.

 

P0171 says it could be a weak fuel system or vacuum leak. Could that have been caused by the recall? That is the first time I have had any lights on the dash and it just happens to be after the dealer worked on it. Coincidence?

My wife asked me to run out and get her a paper, coffee and a biscuit this morning. I decided to take the truck since it hasn't been moved in a while. 3 miles to the store, run in and get the stuff. On the way back, the check engine light came back on. My truck has probably got 250 miles, maybe, since the recall was done. The light is back on. Same two codes, P0430 and P0171. Odd to me it's never given any lights, ever and now the two times I have driven it, the CEL has came on with the same codes.

 

Edit: I got to thinking about what I had done to the truck before the recall. I had to change the battery. To make it easier I pulled the airb ox. I just walked out and double checked everything. Turns out, the jackleg mechanic, me, left the intake tube loose from the air box to the plenum. I don't know how the truck was running. The tube was just pushed up to the air box and not on it. I don't know how it was running as well as it was with all that unmetered air getting in.

Edited November 28, 2019 by Eddie 70

[JoBo1943]

OK, anyone else get a letter dated November 2019?

Is says in bold print in part "Please be aware that even if your vehicle exhibits this condition, it meets all federal motor vehicle safety standards for brake performance".

Then goes on to say in bold and underlined print:

Do not take your vehicle to your GM dealer as a result of this letter unless you believe that your vehicle has the condition as described above.

They are extending the warranty on the pump to 10 years or 150,000 miles

 

A  form N182202780 "customer reimbursement request form" was included for those who have paid to have the pump replaced.

 

Does this all mean they are canceling recall N192268490 and if your brakes don't work properly and you run over somebody they then will fix it?

I'm loosing any faith I might have previously had for GM. Should have known by how they are still fighting the ignition switch failure problem.

 

Joe

 

 

Edited December 5, 2019 by JoBo1943

[Jglew82]

6 minutes ago, JoBo1943 said:

OK, anyone else get a letter dated November 2019?

Is says in bold print in part "Please be aware that even if your vehicle exhibits this condition, it meets all federal motor vehicle safety standards for brake performance".

Then goes on to say in bold and underlined print:

Do not take your vehicle to your GM dealer as a result of this letter unless you believe that your vehicle has the condition as described above.

They are extending the warranty on the pump to 10 years or 150,000 miles

 

A  form N182202780 "customer reimbursement request form" was included for those who have paid to have the pump replaced.

 

Does this all mean they are canceling recall N192268490 and if your brakes don't work properly and you run over somebody they then will fix it?

I'm loosing any faith I might have previously had for GM. Should have known by how they are still fighting the ignition switch failure problem.

 

Joe

 

 

It's a warranty extension notification for the vacuum pump, NOT the recall for reflashing the BCM. Two separate things. 

[Sierra Sik]

I previously attempted to have my vacuum pump updated on my 2014 sierra after experiencing loss off braking power at very low rpm while parking. Problem was truck was at 73,400 mi. warranty was only up to 72,000 mi. Dealer said call GMC. GMC said (after 3 calls and 2 escalations) no exceptions ! I was Pissed !! Was going to install pump myself but had not got around to it yet. Than new letter came out with 10 year 150,000 mi warranty. 

Took my truck in today and dealer replaced pump and performed recall all under warranty. Brakes work really nice at idle and low rpm now. GM should have fixed it on my first request! Oh well its fixed.