CAMS WHOS GOT EM?

GaryT · August 23, 2019

The title says it all. Want to add some hp and delete dod after #7 has failed twice in 80 miles. Looking to get stage 1 or 2 texas speed or a btr cam but btr has no hp or torque numbers. anyone have any? On 275/65/18 currently. Crew cab 5.8 foot box. 94k miles post videos photos going to do a cai also

GaryT · August 23, 2019

2015 5.3 forgot to add that

1SLOW1500 · August 23, 2019

Post cam specs and mods. This is a 6 speed? You need a tune and well.

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GaryT · August 24, 2019

Yup 6 speed open to cam options atm not set on anything just dont want it to be a dog down low or towing something

CamGTP · August 24, 2019

The smaller you stay the better it will be off idle and down low.

A 212/218 with a mild 112-114 LSA will work good with a stock converter and improve power throughout the rev range. I'm not completely up to date on the DI camshafts as I haven't looked at them much but surely some of the specs are close to that.

Don't get so caught up in provided horsepower and torque numbers because in reality it comes down to the person tuning it. These computers are very complicated and take a lot of knowledge to really dial them in.

1SLOW1500 · August 24, 2019

Correct smaller cams idle better and keep the power down low. Unless we take about a new converter. In the tune tune we can get the engine to behave. Also we can "cheat" as I call it by increasing the idle and the rolling or in gear idles.
Sounds silly but google the cams you are looking at so you can hear the truck running. It gives you a idea how choppy the cam is.
If this was me I would get a tune first and open up all the engines power. Then see how I feel about more power.
Everyone is different on budget and how much they want.
Once you drive the truck with the full pe I think you will be happy on power. Yes the cams you mentioned are more performance. Another option is pick up the phone and call comp cams. See where they spec a cam out.

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GaryT · August 24, 2019

I had the truck tuned already but had DOD failure on cylinder 7 so had it fixed under warranty. They never replaced the VLOM so it collapsed again after 80 miles so they are going to warranty everything for a second time. I dont feel like having another lifter collapse when I'm traveling for work. So it's going to be deleted. But why go all that way and not do a cam? Not a stock one but one that's going to make more power. I have YouTubed cams for a while so I've got an idea. biggest problem is they all film right on the exhaust and rev it up so you never get an actual sound driving or walking by

Blk6.2 · August 25, 2019

. Interested

DenaliX14 · August 25, 2019

Jump on https://www.texas-speed.com/

And grab yourself a DOD delete and a Cam package. You’ll thank yourself every day you fire that up and don’t have to worry about failure. I’d even swap torque converters and go for a high lift big cam.

kennerz · August 26, 2019

Bigger cam bigger reward power wise. But will be chasing drivability. Smaller cam easier to tune. Usually better torque off bottom. Problem is the larger cam will typically need more stuff to regain drive quality translated into more$$ spent. Also know that a stock di can provide quite a bit more duration through the vvt

JONBLARC7 · August 28, 2019

I have a 2014 6.2 with the 6 speed with a TSP cam. I would call them and ask what they recommend.

For my 6.2 with a stock stall the recommended the stage 2 5.3 cam. Which is 218/226 113 lsa. with the DOD delete kit.

I had number 7# lifter stick on me so I did the heads and cam myself.

I don't think I would go any bigger with a stock stall even on a 6.2

I love the cam and it pulls my 7000 pound wakeboat really well.

flyingfool · September 3, 2019

all the effort to put a cam in and tune it., your better off with a low boost supercharger, easier on the valvetrain too cost the same after all the knick knack parts are calculated..

if your going cam, might as well get a set of chromoly pushrods, and the dod delete.

Edited September 3, 2019 by flyingfool

1SLOW1500 · September 3, 2019

all the effort to put a cam in and tune it., your better off with a low boost supercharger, easier on the valvetrain too cost the same after all the knick knack parts are calculated..
if your going cam, might as well get a set of chromoly pushrods, and the dod delete.

Depends on why he is doing cam some people are running away from the collapsed lifted and DOD issues. Also depending on camb specs so would not recommend stronger pushrods but it is more of a option then science. Just that they can bend and be easy to replace rather then damage to valve or piston.
I am a know lover of boost. So I say cam and boost[emoji3]

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flyingfool · September 3, 2019

24 minutes ago, 1SLOW1500 said:

Depends on why he is doing cam some people are running away from the collapsed lifted and DOD issues. Also depending on camb specs so would not recommend stronger pushrods but it is more of a option then science. Just that they can bend and be easy to replace rather then damage to valve or piston.
I am a know lover of boost. So I say cam and boost

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yeah i never thought about the pushrod weakeness being engineering into the design for protection.

1SLOW1500 · September 3, 2019

We had a "rich" guy bring in a new cts v coupe. And he had a Facebook guy install bigger rockers. And car was.making noises. Well that kid didn't install the shims under the rockers. So the valves hit the piston and there was damage.
High lift cams with high rate springs or high rev engines we start to worry about valve train strength.

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