Poor audio quality solution.

ADC · August 30, 2019

Llj customs has them.

Zrouge1 · October 15, 2019

So based off the first post the factory head unit is enough to power aftermarket speakers? I am thinking swapping the doors to 6.5 JBL 2ways and the dash to JBL 3/4 tweeters with bass blockers. I am not looking for super loud or lots of bass, I want clarity. That’s what I did in my previous Tacoma and it was night and day difference.

nboudreaux · April 16, 2020

On 8/16/2019 at 10:26 AM, Itsjustme said:

I noticed multiple threads, including ones I made up complaining about the audio quality of the new trucks whether it with or without the Bose

More specifically, the rear speakers. I'm here to tell you that there is hope. I decided to replace the speakers in the rear of my crew cab in hopes that I would get more sound. It worked!! Not to the point where the inside is rattling, but enough that I don't have to turn the volume up so high. However, when I replaced the rear speakers, because the clarity was much better, I was able to notice that the fronts were distorted, so I ended up replacing those as well. Now I'm noticing that I have to turn the bass down. So if you're looking for a solution, start here.

I replaced all door speakers with Pioneer A-series speaker. 6x9 5-way up front and 6.5" 3-way in the rear. What's nice about the Pioneer, is that they come with a plastic bracket to hold the speaker, that fits in the door in the same position. You just have to break off the tabs that aren't needed. Rather than splicing the wires I order Metra wire harness, part number 72-4572. It plugs directly into the factory harness and you attached the other end to the speakers. Everything I bought off Amazon and spent about $125. If this is something you're looking to do, I can't Express enough the importance of sealing the speakers.

Even though the brackets are a direct fit, it does leave air gaps. I used silicone to fill in the gaps. If you've ever worked with silicone before, you know how much of a mess it can be. To combat this, before putting the speaker on the bracket, apply the silicone to the edges of the bracket where it meets the door, and then spray the silicone bead with all-purpose cleaner. Then run your finger around the silicone to create a good seal and wipe the excess on a piece of paper towel. It makes the job a lot less messy and it won't stick all over everything. I also put silicone around the edges of the speaker, where it touches the bracket, just for added assurance. This is optional. The end result is still the same. Better quality, better sounding, and more volume with less power. I hope this helps with those who are suffering the same issue I was.

What is the bass like with these speakers? I know bass is hard to come by with a speaker this size but I'm just looking for the best bass I can get without adding a sub and amp and all that mess again. The reviews I read, most say these have good quality bass as well as overall great sound.

vulcan_classic · April 20, 2020

Whats the point of adding three-way or five-way speakers to the doors if they're only getting low/mids from head unit, while mid/highs go to the dash tweeters only? The factory speakers are both impedence and signal matched (i.e. frequency response) to the head unit outputs. If you run test signals through the head unit you can clearly hear the factory roll off. At about 500-600Hz the front doors go dead and the dash speakers do the rest.Try it!

Edited April 20, 2020 by vulcan_classic

Jeff Masse · April 20, 2020

58 minutes ago, vulcan_classic said:

Whats the point of adding three-way or five-way speakers to the doors if they're only getting low/mids from head unit, while mid/highs go to the dash tweeters only? The factory speakers are both impedence and signal matched (i.e. frequency response) to the head unit outputs. If you run test signals through the head unit you can clearly hear the factory roll off. At about 500-600Hz the front doors go dead and the dash speakers do the rest.Try it!

But how are the speakers crossed over? Passive or active? If they are passive with with crossover caps installed on the stock speakers then wouldn't the crossover and roll-off be removed when you take the stock speaker out? I suspect this is the way they are installed since there are not separate speaker wires coming out of the radio unit for the dash speakers. I assume the front wires just split to each speaker.

davidr83 · April 21, 2020

On 4/20/2020 at 2:23 PM, Jeff Masse said:

But how are the speakers crossed over? Passive or active? If they are passive with with crossover caps installed on the stock speakers then wouldn't the crossover and roll-off be removed when you take the stock speaker out? I suspect this is the way they are installed since there are not separate speaker wires coming out of the radio unit for the dash speakers. I assume the front wires just split to each speaker.

That's how they were in both the gmt900 trucks I've had previously. I would expect this to be the same formula GM followed due to costs during the manufacturing process

TheVolvokid · April 27, 2020

Since day one of owning my '20 elevation, I've been bugged about how crap the stereo is.

Since you've had some time on upgrading the speakers only, do you enjoy it. Think it was worth the 100 bucks?

I'm looking at some pioneer 6x9s and rockford 6 1/2" for the rears. Crutchfield has the speakers, mounts and wiring kits for 94 bucks shipped. Thinking it might be worth it but wanted some input.

Don't really want to trouble myself with a amp and sub yet. Sounds rather annoying and the 1200 on it plus install is a really bummer.

papasink · April 27, 2020

On 8/23/2019 at 12:33 PM, Sjordan said:

Any plans to replace the dash speakers? Or did the doors make big enough of a difference?

I replaced the dash speakers in my 19 RST non Bose and the sound was so crisp with that change. I used Kenwood Excelon from Crutchfield. I also replaced the front doors with Alpine RS69.2. I put the baffle cones on them as well as deadening sheets around it. Outstanding sound. I had replaced the rear with JBL 6-1/2" but am thinking of getting a set of better ones there. Also looking at an amp or even a sub.

Sjordan · April 27, 2020

38 minutes ago, papasink said:

I replaced the dash speakers in my 19 RST non Bose and the sound was so crisp with that change. I used Kenwood Excelon from Crutchfield. I also replaced the front doors with Alpine RS69.2. I put the baffle cones on them as well as deadening sheets around it. Outstanding sound. I had replaced the rear with JBL 6-1/2" but am thinking of getting a set of better ones there. Also looking at an amp or even a sub.

How involved is the dash speaker change process? Tough to get to them?

papasink · April 27, 2020

59 minutes ago, Sjordan said:

How involved is the dash speaker change process? Tough to get to them?

Not bad at all. Each side has a trim piece that has bolts on the side and front. Then remove the speaker cover (one bolt) and the speakers. You will need the pigtails to connect to the truck plug. I got them on Amazon for a few bucks. Took about 30 minutes for both speakers. There is a You Tube video.

pewterliftedz · April 27, 2020

2 hours ago, papasink said:

I replaced the dash speakers in my 19 RST non Bose and the sound was so crisp with that change. I used Kenwood Excelon from Crutchfield. I also replaced the front doors with Alpine RS69.2. I put the baffle cones on them as well as deadening sheets around it. Outstanding sound. I had replaced the rear with JBL 6-1/2" but am thinking of getting a set of better ones there. Also looking at an amp or even a sub.

Did those speakers drop right in? I've heard of people having issues with magnets, and having to cut away plastic in the dash.

papasink · April 27, 2020

1 hour ago, pewterliftedz said:

Did those speakers drop right in? I've heard of people having issues with magnets, and having to cut away plastic in the dash.

Didn't have any issues at all. They fit right in without any issue and sound incredible.