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Has Anyone Modified the Audio System Yet (Basic or Bose systems)?


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On 2/12/2024 at 7:30 AM, Pryme said:

Good info! Thanks I’ll look into that. 
 

yeah I have the dash speakers and doors so I think 6 total. Actually pretty clear stock I’ve heard much worse stock. 

I used LLJ customs when I did mine.  Plug and play harness and added amp, sub, and upgraded speakers.  Very loud and very clear now.  Only thing that sucks is the factory head unit on work trucks have no balance or fader controls.  Would replace it but upgraded head unit requires IOR stereo that is on-star equipped 

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4 hours ago, CT Chevy Connoisseur said:

I used LLJ customs when I did mine.  Plug and play harness and added amp, sub, and upgraded speakers.  Very loud and very clear now.  Only thing that sucks is the factory head unit on work trucks have no balance or fader controls.  Would replace it but upgraded head unit requires IOR stereo that is on-star equipped 

I just looked and my W/T has balance and fader control. 

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  • 1 month later...
On 2/2/2024 at 12:40 PM, Kerry Pulaski said:

UpDate on my '24 Denali HD with 12 speaker Bose.....Why I was so upset, as I had a Bose system in my '03 Tahoe, and it needed Nothing !!  Was excellent, my new '24 Bose with the Trebel EQ cranked to 100%, was like I still had a ton of Ear Wax.

Replaced the "A" pillars with Kicker Tweeters, Dash Corners with Pioneer A709 Co-Ax. Huge improvement.

Another '24 owner "sswails" used AudioFrogs in these locations with excellent results.

 

Factory option Kicker Subwoofer for under rear seat,  Beware !!  TWO versions.  Early ones had the capability of adding a Remote Bass Volume Control, with a 17ft. cable.  Chip shortage, forced a re-design, and eliminated this !!  I spoke to Tech's at Kicker confirming this.

They said the early design with Remote Bass Control will resume production "Soon".  ???

Way to tell, is the Amp if capable, has a Rectangular White multi pin Female receptacle, flush with one end, and case is square. Next to that White Recpt. will be a Female 1/8" Din port, to add the remote.

Ones Without Remote Bass, is a Rounded Corner Amp Box, and the main power & speaker connection, is on a short "Whip cable", with a Black Rect. Recpt. Plug. NO Bass Remote !!

 

I wound up doing a quick add on Kicker 46HS10 "Hide Away" 10"  180 Watt internal amp unit for $370 from Crutchfield. Will fit just about anywhere, and included the Remote Bass Control & Cable.

"sswails" on his '24 Denali / Bose, Tapped into the Right Front Door 6x9 Yellow & Yellow/Black wires, available under the passenger Rear Door Scuff/Rocker plate.

He said the Center Console 6" Sub wires ( Gn/Bk & Bl/Gy ) That signal "Rolla Off" in volume, as the main speaker level increases.

I found having the Remote Bass Control function, is critical to tailor the Sub Level, for different music. The Front Door 6x9's will loose a lot of Tone, using the Dash Bose EQ to control the Total system Bass.

"sswails" used a JL Audio Dual 10"  Sub under the rear seat.  I still need the storage for business stuff, so the "All in One"  Kicker "Hide Away" with integrated amp, worked out best in my application.

 I just installed the Kicker sub in my '24 HC 2500. I tapped the sub wires right at the front passenger seat instead of the right channel wires as Kicker suggest. I read on a Duramax forum that this was the best option as it gave "2-channel bass", but maybe it's only mono wired from the factory?? You're saying "sswails" says the signal drops to the sub as volume increases?? It made more sense to me to tap into sub power than the right speaker channel. I did buy the sub with the bass control port, but left the factory Kicker "dip switches" set as factory, Switch 1-on, Switches 2 & 3-off. These 3 switches are supposedly the signal outputs. I've also read that if you move all 3 signal dipswitches to on, this improves volume, but another guy suggests that Kickers setting is the best. EVERYONE has their own opinion. I'm going to play with mine a bit as its easy to pull the 4 screws, remove the 200 w amp and access the dipswitch rubber plug cover on the bottom of the amp. This being said, it definitely improved the factory Bose system, but I've NEVER been overly impressed with Bose anything.

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I thought I'd post a pic of the factory under-seat storage that I modified to utilize the jack stowage area. Cuts easily with a 4-1/2" grinder & cutting wheel as it's just plastic with glued on fuzzy fabric. The jack stowage bracket has 2-10mm studs w/nuts that hold it in place, which holds that portion of the storage bin in place securely. 

 

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Edited by mtbadbob
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