Add Bed Light Switch to Truck Bed

[rah7777777]

Just to throw this out there, don't use T-taps. 

I wouldn't force my enemy to use T-taps.

Just over all a bad idea, especially on anything exterior.

 

I cringe every time I see a T-tap. 

 

[jaeisber]

27 minutes ago, rah7777777 said:

Just to throw this out there, don't use T-taps. 

I wouldn't force my enemy to use T-taps.

Just over all a bad idea, especially on anything exterior.

 

I cringe every time I see a T-tap. 

 

I am curious, what would you do/use instead?  I am always willing to learn something if there are better or more appropriate ways to do it.

 

I have had no issues with t-taps, especially when used properly (sealed with tape and heat shrink wraps) and have used them on my trucks and cars for years when wanting to make a non-intrusive connection.  Most of the time I will splice in wires, but for tapping in to wires I do not wish to cut, a t-tap has served me well.

[rah7777777]

If you absolutely do not want to cut the wire you are tagging, I would suggest scrapping off about a 1/2" of the insulation and wrapping the new wire around it a few times and soldering it together. Then good electrical tape. 

 

Personally I like heat shrink though, so rather than the above i'd just cut it and solder the 3 ends together after running the heat shrink you need down the wires, so once its soldered you can pull the heat shrink back where you want it and heat it. 

 

But ultimately for the best longevity from being completely sealed,  I would just cut it and use a perma-seal heat shrink connector that is sized accordingly. They have various sizes and reducers. You do have to have a special crimp tool ($50), but i've crimped at least 50,000 of these over the past 10 years and I can attest to how solid they are (assuming you use the right crimp tool and crimp it correctly and heat shrink it)

 

https://www.waytekwire.com/item/31980/Molex-19164-0044-Perma-Seal-Butt-Connector-/

[rah7777777]

With that though, Even as much as a love the perma-seal heat shrink connectors, depending on the circuit I won't use those. 

Say an airbag circuit, its solder ONLY. You want the least amount of resistance added to that circuit, a good solder joint provides this. The perma-seal connector probably isnt far from as good, but in my head it can't be as good. 

 

but for adding a light or anything not as crucial as the airbags, the heat shrink butt connector with the RIGHT crimp tool is the way to go. 

[jpinoy]

With that though, Even as much as a love the perma-seal heat shrink connectors, depending on the circuit I won't use those. 
Say an airbag circuit, its solder ONLY. You want the least amount of resistance added to that circuit, a good solder joint provides this. The perma-seal connector probably isnt far from as good, but in my head it can't be as good. 
 
but for adding a light or anything not as crucial as the airbags, the heat shrink butt connector with the RIGHT crimp tool is the way to go. 

This is what I use, it seals and solders. I use a heat gun to melt the solder and seal it at the same time. And then I usually use a shrink wrap over it to make sure...

150PCS Solder Seal Wire Connectors, Camtek Heat Shrink Butt Connectors Solder Seal Wire Terminals Electrical Insulated Waterproof Marine Automotive Copper Connectors https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C3L4N2J/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9JsEDbT58T42R

Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

[rah7777777]

30 minutes ago, jpinoy said:

This is what I use, it seals and solders. I use a heat gun to melt the solder and seal it at the same time. And then I usually use a shrink wrap over it to make sure...

150PCS Solder Seal Wire Connectors, Camtek Heat Shrink Butt Connectors Solder Seal Wire Terminals Electrical Insulated Waterproof Marine Automotive Copper Connectors https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C3L4N2J/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9JsEDbT58T42R

Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk
 

 

What you linked is actually a different product. It uses a low heat solder heat shrinks all in 1 step. 

I've used those a little in the past with good results though. 

 

I didnt know you could get them so cheap now days though.

For the home user that is probably a better setup than the perma-seal and special crimpers needed. 

[jaeisber]

40 minutes ago, jpinoy said:

This is what I use, it seals and solders. I use a heat gun to melt the solder and seal it at the same time. And then I usually use a shrink wrap over it to make sure...

150PCS Solder Seal Wire Connectors, Camtek Heat Shrink Butt Connectors Solder Seal Wire Terminals Electrical Insulated Waterproof Marine Automotive Copper Connectors https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C3L4N2J/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9JsEDbT58T42R

Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk
 

 

3 hours ago, rah7777777 said:

If you absolutely do not want to cut the wire you are tagging, I would suggest scrapping off about a 1/2" of the insulation and wrapping the new wire around it a few times and soldering it together. Then good electrical tape. 

 

Personally I like heat shrink though, so rather than the above i'd just cut it and solder the 3 ends together after running the heat shrink you need down the wires, so once its soldered you can pull the heat shrink back where you want it and heat it. 

 

But ultimately for the best longevity from being completely sealed,  I would just cut it and use a perma-seal heat shrink connector that is sized accordingly. They have various sizes and reducers. You do have to have a special crimp tool ($50), but i've crimped at least 50,000 of these over the past 10 years and I can attest to how solid they are (assuming you use the right crimp tool and crimp it correctly and heat shrink it)

 

https://www.waytekwire.com/item/31980/Molex-19164-0044-Perma-Seal-Butt-Connector-/

Thanks for the info guys!  One of the reasons I love these forums is learning something new.

 

I have some of the heat shrink butt connectors, but not the ones with the low temp solder in them.  I will definitely have to look in to getting some of those for future work.  I like that idea a lot as it would make the connection much more secure rather than just relaying on the crimp.

[jpinoy]

 

What you linked is actually a different product. It uses a low heat solder heat shrinks all in 1 step. 

I've used those a little in the past with good results though. 

 

I didnt know you could get them so cheap now days though.

For the home user that is probably a better setup than the perma-seal and special crimpers needed. 

Yeah, I have some of the perma-seal connectors as well. I just switched over to these a lot now, instead . Plus I usually put the wires in a wire loom also.. haha.

 

*Edited to add picture*

This is one of the wires I did for this mod. The ends get sealed(those little bumps) and then I put a regular heat sink over it for extra security.

[SamHatco]

This looks like what I'm looking for.  Do you know if this will work on the 2019 sierra 1500 denali?

 

Sam

[jaeisber]

On 9/12/2019 at 12:41 PM, SamHatco said:

This looks like what I'm looking for.  Do you know if this will work on the 2019 sierra 1500 denali?

 

Sam

It should, its just a matter of taking a look at the wiring for the bed lights in the 2019 Sierra and adjusting accordingly.  The idea is the same regardless of truck.  You just need to find the harness to the bed lights to allow for control from the in cab cargo light switch as well as a hot 12v source to power the switch and lights from the bed.

[silverado2k18]

On 7/10/2019 at 8:43 AM, jaeisber said:

This is a mod that I did on my Canyon a few years ago before I traded it in for my new 2018 Silverado.  When I added it to my Canyon, I knew I would like it, but it quickly became one of my favorite mods.  It makes the bed light much more functional since I usually need the light in my bed when my truck is parked.  Having to go into the cab to turn the bed lights on is inconvenient.  Having a switch in the bed to turn the bed lights on is a must-have for me on any truck going forward.  This mod does not impact the functionality of the cargo light switch in the cab, it merely adds the ability to turn the lights on from the bed in addition to the in-cab switch.

 

Needed parts:

• Switch (1NO1NC SPDT) - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017KP67GI/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_Zv6hDb5QSWA67
• Switch Pig Tail - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H5BXC0G/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_Rv6hDb6T81SZV
• Stake Pocket Covers - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L8BJXTD/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_xz6hDbX64C8WD
• Quick Splice T-Tap Wire Connectors 
• Heat Shrink Butt Connectors
• Wire Loom

 

**DISCLAIMER** This is performed at your own risk, I am not liable for any damage caused by attempting this mod...yada yada yada  **DISCLAIMER**

 

Process (Note, this assumes you already have the factory bed lights installed, if not, you will need to procure a factory pig-tail for the bed lights to use as an alternate power to turn the bed lights on with the in-cab switch):

1. Remove driver side tail light by removing bolts in the tailgate area.  Taillight will pull straight out.  There are retention clips, but pull straight out and the light will come free. Once the taillight is free, remove the bulbs from the light and set the tail light aside.
2. You will now need to run 4 wires (3 black and 1 white, or whatever color scheme you prefer to work with) from the tail light area, down under the truck.  I recommend labeling each end of the black wires so you know where you have connected them.  Under the truck near the driver side of the spare tire, there is a plug area for wiring and powering a number of things at the rear of the truck (namely, the plug controlling the cargo and bed lights).  This is the plug shown in the picture, it is the furthest towards the driver's side and only has 2 wires.  This is where we will tap in to wire in an additional power source as well as splice into the neutral for our secondary power source. 
3. Remove the cargo light plug, this will make it easier to work with. Find the red wire coming out of the plug.  You will cut this wire.  Give yourself a few inches of wire back from the plug so you have some room to work with.  
4. Using heat shrink butt connectors, connect 2 of the black wires, one to each of the cut ends of the red wire out of the plug.
5. Using a t-tap, connect the white wire to the black wire coming out of the cargo light plug.
6. Now find the wiring going to your 7-pin trailer hookup.  I found that lowering the spare tire gave me more room to work here.  I didn't remove the tire, I just dropped it down and gave enough slack to slide it out of the way while I was working.  You will be looking for the large 12v always on lead, it was red with a green stripe on my truck.  It is one of 2 larger gauge wires in the harness.  Use a t-tap and connect the remaining black wire.  This will be your secondary power source allowing you to turn the lights on without having to use the in-cab switch.
7. Route all 4 wires up and out through the stake hole pocket so you can connect them up to the switch pigtail.
8. Connect the wires up as follows:
   1. Black Wire out from cargo light plug > Green (NC)
   2. Black wire to t-tap on hitch harness > Blue (NO)
   3. White wire to t-tap on the black wire in cargo light plug > Black (-)
   4. Black wire out to lights (other end of cut red wire) > Red (+) and White (C) - These are tied together in same butt connector
9. Insert the switch into the small round hole on rear driver's side of the bed.  There is a silver nut that should be removed before inserting the switch.
10. From inside the stake pocket, get the silver nut threaded on by one or 2 spins, but not all of the way as you will need to be able to maneuver the switch.
11. Pull wiring down through the holes in the tail light area to remove excess slack from the wiring and pigtail.  Install pigtail on to the switch. 
    1. This was a bit difficult due to the size of the stake pocket, but using some pliers and patience, you can get it on.
12. Once the pigtail is installed, screw the silver nut tight to hold the switch in place.
13. At this point, I put some silicone caulk around the pigtail connection point to help keep water out, but I also have stake pocket covers that keeps water out as well.
14. Run wires through wire loom and use electric tape to secure all t-taps, butt connections, and any harnesses you had to cut open to access wires.
15. Plug in the cargo light plug (if still unplugged) and raise the spare tire (if dropped).

 

I still have some work to do on my wiring, as you can see from the pictures.  I thought I had some loom leftover from when I did this on my canyon, but I must have thrown it away.  It's in the mail though.

 

I had this mod on my Canyon for 3 years and never had an issue.  My next steps are to add additional LED lights near the rear of the bed so that I have light all the way back.  It will be as simple as tapping the wires to the existing LED lights.

Nice writeup.  I just need to get the bedlights!

[Frischfry]

This may be a stupid question but what gauge wire should I use?

[jpinoy]

18 hours ago, Frischfry said:

This may be a stupid question but what gauge wire should I use?

It's been awhile, but I think I used 18 awg, to match the wire on the switch. The LED strips I used, I think were 20/22? 

[superdave160]

I was planning on doing this to my 17 Silverado WT, which didn't come with bed lights.  I installed the bed lights and connected them to the unused connector under the bed.  At this point, the bed lights came on when the bed light on the back of the cab came on.  I then used a diode to connect the reverse lights and bed lights circuit.  Now the bed lights come on whenever the reverse lights are on, which doesn't sound very useful until that you remember that every time you use the key fob to unlock the doors/tailgate the reverse lights come on for 30 seconds.  That puts the switch to turn on your bed lights in your pocket.  If you need more than 30 seconds, then press the unlock switch again for another 30 seconds.

 

 

[bhowatt]

Do I need additional wire to do this mod? Thanks!