Fuel delivery issue please help

[tnewman021]

Well,power wire have 12v?,large wire,if yes,get a new ignition module

I don't have a multimeter at the moment and where is the ignition module located

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[riverbanks]

Yes,by mouth,crude,but works,and this way you can see fuel oozing out anywhere in fuel line also,that hair line crack I mentioned,now on distributor,you changed coil,how does button look under cap,the one that hits center of rotor?good,intact?it has a spring under it, should bounce back when pressed,and the module is in base of distributor

[txab]

If no vacuum gauge available, you can remove the inlet line to the pump and stick your thumb over while someone cranks, you should feel suction.

 

Just to be sure you do have the lines installed correctly at pump. Mix up vent line and inlet line from tank and it won't work. Doubt this is what it is, but it should be mentioned

[Black02Silverado]

I've read through all the posts, maybe I missed it but is fuel coming out at the line to the fuel pump?  Try to see if you can pull a suction on that to make sure the fuel is it to the pump.

[tnewman021]

No I just talked to a guy and he said if my module is not working on my distributor it won't run my crankshaft to turn that pushrod to get the fuel pump to push so I'm going to check the module out and see if that's it but the button and a cap or brand new

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[tnewman021]

This is what my distributor looks like the cap and rotor button are brand new so is the shaft bearing on the bottom

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[riverbanks]

Don't take advise from him anymore,100% wrong, you see the black thing with yellow dot,that's the module

[garagerog]

With the amount of rust on the weights and springs I would suspect corrosion on electrical connections somewhere in that HEI, I'm old and more familiar with the points and condenser setup, but I'm curious about that grooved plate just right of the right weight, river probably can chime in, but it looks like to me that slot should slide in under the top module mounting screw.

[tnewman021]

Dang i just seen that i changed the module and still no fire ill try that piece tomorrow

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[txab]

Are you getting fuel yet?. I agree with with riverbanks above, don't listen to your buddy. Crank and cam will turn even if the distributor is out of the engine. Fuel pump is driven by lobe on the front end of cam. If you've got fuel now, let us know so we don't waste time trying to solve something that's not an issue any more

 

You also need to check for 12v at distributor before going further.

 

Another question.... was this thing running recently or has it been sitting up for a while?

Edited July 7, 2019 by txab

[tnewman021]

No fuel yet im gonna try again tomorrow

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[tnewman021]

No I just talked to a guy and he said if my module is not working on my distributor it won't run my crankshaft to turn that pushrod to get the fuel pump to push so I'm going to check the module out and see if that's it but the button and a cap or brand new

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Thanks ill get back at it tomorrow.. Ill let you know as soon as i find out

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[tnewman021]

Yes,by mouth,crude,but works,and this way you can see fuel oozing out anywhere in fuel line also,that hair line crack I mentioned,now on distributor,you changed coil,how does button look under cap,the one that hits center of rotor?good,intact?it has a spring under it, should bounce back when pressed,and the module is in base of distributor

The cap and rotor are new

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[tnewman021]

I've read through all the posts, maybe I missed it but is fuel coming out at the line to the fuel pump?  Try to see if you can pull a suction on that to make sure the fuel is it to the pump.

No fuel to pump.. Im gonna get back at it tomorrow and let u know thank everyone for the help its the only truck i have

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[tnewman021]

Heres a pic of the truck.. Its a 84 gmc sierra k1500 heavy half ton. 5.7 4wd.. Good night and thanks again for the help...

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