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Getting pissed with my new truck


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1 hour ago, Cpl_Punishment said:

The Tundra is several thousand more expensive and doesn't have any kind of locking differential, good or otherwise. 

 

My sentiments exactly. It was either a solid 15-year-old design with antiquated efficiency or something new with a lot of gremlins and experimental stuff. I don't like it when GM treats their customers like guinea pigs.

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1 hour ago, flyingfool said:

problem is with the 4x4 rear lockers they use are cheap shit Gov-Loc rear diffs.  They are very dangerous when they engage.  had it on my 1990 suburban and wow, look out when it hooks up. the rear end will come around so fast and outta control its stupid.  get real locker, or make it a pegg legger, better yet buy a Toyota TUndra TRD 

Wrong, the G80 becomes disengaged at speeds above 25 mph. Lockers have nothing to do with this.

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3 minutes ago, Silverado4x4 said:

Wrong, the G80 becomes disengaged at speeds above 25 mph. Lockers have nothing to do with this.

 

Ahem...

 

https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/142585-i-want-the-g80-locker-installed/?do=findComment&comment=1246801

 

TRCM in 2012 said....

 

Well, if you actually LOOK at how one works, and not just listen to the dealer, then, true, it will not ENGAGE above 20 mph, BUT, if you engage it below 20 and maintain a fairly straight path (don't turn), and don't let off the gas or change to reverse, it will STAY locked/engaged until the torque is backed off (the skinny pedal is let go).

 

This is so when you go around a turn @ 50 mph, and the outer tire starts turning faster, it doesnt see the difference in tire speeds as slip and slam the locker in, causing you to spin out.

 

Once the locker engages, it will STAY engaged until one of the below happens:

 

1) you let off the gas -, which changes the torque on the diff

 

2) you change direction of the torque, IE, go from forward to reverse

 

3) you go around a turn sharp enough to force differentiation, IE the outer tire is turning faster enough to allow the ramping plates to release in the diff

 

4) the transmission shifts, which changes the torque level

 

All the tech data I have seen on these say they will not ENGAGE above 20 mph, but none of them say they actually DISENGAGE at 20 mph, which is what they would have to do if it engaged under power below 20 mph and you stayed in the throttle until you were @ 60 mph.

 

Imagine if you are going down a wet muddy road @ 10 mph, then you accelerate to 30 mph, you will still have the locker engaged as long as the torque on it does not change.

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7 minutes ago, Wiggums said:

 

My sentiments exactly. It was either a solid 15-year-old design with antiquated efficiency or something new with a lot of gremlins and experimental stuff. I don't like it when GM treats their customers like guinea pigs.

That's why I'm thinking either a 2018 K2 with the 5.3 and 6 speed or a 2020 with the 5.3 and 10 speed. 

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Just now, Cpl_Punishment said:

That's why I'm thinking either a 2018 K2 with the 5.3 and 6 speed or a 2020 with the 5.3 and 10 speed. 

 

Others have mentioned K2's interior is better. I doubt GM will have fixed the gremlins by 2020, there's just so many of the little buggers all over. At the same time, my T1 gets far better gas mileage. One got over 30 mpg doing 75 mph on a very flat road. If I didn't drive on dirt roads a lot, I'd still consider the T1 though despite the gremlins. I am now using the other F-150 just for the dirt roads while the Silverado is going to be a highway queen just what it should have been in the first place.

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16 minutes ago, Wiggums said:

 

Others have mentioned K2's interior is better. I doubt GM will have fixed the gremlins by 2020, there's just so many of the little buggers all over. At the same time, my T1 gets far better gas mileage. One got over 30 mpg doing 75 mph on a very flat road. If I didn't drive on dirt roads a lot, I'd still consider the T1 though despite the gremlins. I am now using the other F-150 just for the dirt roads while the Silverado is going to be a highway queen just what it should have been in the first place.

T1 is more fuel efficient and the models I'm interested in can be had with the 10 speed next year. K2 should be more reliable and also has a higher GVWR. However, the only new K2 I can find with NHT is an SLE that's listed by the dealer at $60k CAD when it should be $50k or less and a T1 RST has an MSRP of about $53k right now. 

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6 minutes ago, Cpl_Punishment said:

T1 is more fuel efficient and the models I'm interested in can be had with the 10 speed next year. K2 should be more reliable and also has a higher GVWR. However, the only new K2 I can find with NHT is an SLE that's listed by the dealer at $60k CAD when it should be $50k or less and a T1 RST has an MSRP of about $53k right now. 

 

The 8 speed isn't so hot but the jarring thud has diminished somewhat. Reliability seems to be fine, I don't hear others complaining about problems with the 8-speed. The 10-speed, erm, Ford uses the same transmission and owners are reporting problems. You could be jumping from frying pan into the fire.

Other than the problems I'm having, the RST is nicely equipped with 20 inch tyres and I love the way it handles on streets, just not dirt roads. Definitely better than my F-150 which felt a little clumsy, the Silverado feels confident. If the 10-speed isn't as bad as people in the F-150 forum say, then I'd probably wait until that comes out. The gas mileage computer is way more accurate in the T1 down to the last 0.1. The K2's were a little sloppy, usually off by 2 or 3 mpg, like Ford F-150.

Ah, so many variables at play. Not sure if I should be regretting my purchase since gas mileage is much better, it has LED lights and lights up things nicely, interior is nicer to me (coming from F-150 myself), confident handling, instrumentation is easier to read, and the $10k off MSRP was nice to boot. That was the only reason I jumped from the frying pan into the fire.

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3 minutes ago, Wiggums said:

 

The 8 speed isn't so hot but the jarring thud has diminished somewhat. Reliability seems to be fine, I don't hear others complaining about problems with the 8-speed. The 10-speed, erm, Ford uses the same transmission and owners are reporting problems. You could be jumping from frying pan into the fire.

Other than the problems I'm having, the RST is nicely equipped with 20 inch tyres and I love the way it handles on streets, just not dirt roads. Definitely better than my F-150 which felt a little clumsy, the Silverado feels confident. If the 10-speed isn't as bad as people in the F-150 forum say, then I'd probably wait until that comes out. The gas mileage computer is way more accurate in the T1 down to the last 0.1. The K2's were a little sloppy, usually off by 2 or 3 mpg, like Ford F-150.

Ah, so many variables at play. Not sure if I should be regretting my purchase since gas mileage is much better, it has LED lights and lights up things nicely, interior is nicer to me (coming from F-150 myself), confident handling, instrumentation is easier to read, and the $10k off MSRP was nice to boot. That was the only reason I jumped from the frying pan into the fire.

One guy on here said GM did a better job than Ford mapping the shift points and whatnot in that 10 speed. I've heard of far fewer 10 speed issues than 8 speed issues on here, though maybe the 6.2 masks some of that? 

I hope the 5.3 with 10 speed comes with the 2 speed transfer case. The inability to get that with NHT is another downside to the T1 for me. 

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10 hours ago, L86 All Terrain said:

...Kind of funny how GM claims they put 2 million test miles into these trucks ...

 

That's why I want one of those test trucks. They must be flawless :cool:

 

The side stepping of the rear end is annoying. Even after putting on new shocks. A pothole on a paved road and the ass kicks out.

What makes me wonder is that our company vans (Ford Transit 1-tons) don't step sideways when hitting potholes or similar. Even empty.

Is it a design flaw with our trucks after all?

 

so long

j-ten-ner

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1 hour ago, j-ten-ner said:

That's why I want one of those test trucks. They must be flawless :cool:

 

The side stepping of the rear end is annoying. Even after putting on new shocks.

 

Did you experience a similar issue as Op and find that new shocks didn't resolve the problem?

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Yes.

But I had the shocks replaced with OEM parts. My bad I guess.

I've driven many cars, from VW Transporter flat deck or van, Sprinter, Chevy G20, Jeep j10, you name it.

But the bouncing of the rear end was never so noticeable as it is on my truck.

My truck is rated with about 1,600 lbs of payload. More than the other ones. Maybe that's the reason.

We're demanding the highest payload numbers for our half ton trucks and that's the payoff.

 

so long

j-ten-ner

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14 hours ago, Wiggums said:

 

I don't even think it had a reason to hook up, could it still hook up based on the terrain? The rear end came around so fast even if the road was straight. It was mind-boggling and I could never imagine this happening to any 4x4, I was at 45 degrees, it wasn't a trivial issue, it's nothing to scoff at, it will even catch an experienced off roader off guard. It was not an exaggeration, it happened quickly and I was alert when it happened. If I wasn't, I could have killed somebody with that truck especially since a lot of the roads are not paved near the ranch.

yeah I've had it happen in my old 4x4 suburban , on the street making a right hand turn , was accellerating  thru the turn safely, the right wheel hit wet asphault and the left wheel was dry, coming outta the turn under medium throttle, this was enough torque difference to engage it, then is spun out like i hit black ice.  i immediatly got off throttle as soon as i started to drift, and counter steered half a revolution on the steering wheel, this did nothing at all and  spun the truck  180 degrees . gov-loc is garbage.. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

I would bet it is more related to the spring rate of the leaf packs than the shocks. The spring rate controls the rebound, if the rebound it too much (or designed to have a load on it) then it will buck back hard and fast after a sharp bump. Our old 98's used to have 4 leaves and some had an overload leaf. More leafs allows for a more progressive rate compression and rebound resulting in a plusher ride. Someone swap in a set of Deaver springs and report back. Shocks will defiantly help, but the problem is the rebound of the suspension, not the damping of the shocks. 

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I’ve owned trucks for 40 years 1/2-1 tons. Usually trade every two years. I sit here perplexed why I haven’t had these problems, even though half of my use was off road on pipe lines. I’m always eager to help than it dawned on me. Most of my trucks were used as trucks and had weight in them. From as little as a tool box with tools up to 1000lbs. To just a cap or topper. All on factory shocks. I would not run full tire pressure would adjust to the load. I would run 80lb tires at 50, 50 lbs tires at 35 depending on bed weight. Trucks l used as hot rods were lowered. I would drive for conditions. This was with all brands never had the problem described here. My last new truck was a 2014.

 

 

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It also varies depending on the dirt itself. I don't get it on dirt roads, it has to be the hard, dry desert dirt with washboarding on top, you know, the ripples.

 

I started going above 40 mph and it's not happened again. It's completely straight with the nearest neighbor being five miles away. It has the occasional ripples and I learned that by not slowing down which I did in the past, it seems to handle better. It's weird.

 

Everybody else I know regularly travel at 50 to 55 mph on that road.

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