power running boards not working

[trod81]

Having same issue.  I open door and it comes out, slower than normal, and retracts.  If i mess with the running board button on my dash and lock them in and out a few times it resolves the issue, momentarily. 

 

Please help.

 

[Savinhillspyda]

Yup, mine is doing same thing, 2018. There’s gotta be some restriction making it think there’s pressure on the step causing it to retract. 

 

Edited April 29, 2021 by Savinhillspyda

[Chris69]

The boards that are randomly deploying are due to moisture in the rear board kick switch. Replace the switch or just unplug it and seal the wire harness connector. If you don’t know what I’m taking about. Look at the very back of the board infront of the back wheel. There is a switch in the cap which you can kick to deploy the board. You maybe able to just dry it out. 

[grk83]

I'm having the same problem. Has Anyone figured out how to fix it????

[grk83]

I'm having the same problem. Has Anyone figured out how to fix it????

[grk83]

On 3/30/2021 at 11:08 AM, Dfierro303 said:

My 17 Sierra Denali doing the same thing and now  sometimes wont even try to come out. When I press the button to retract it will come out about an inch and the go back in again. Making me think the motor is fine just something restricting it like a sensor air bushing..HELP PLEASE

Same with my 16. Have you found a solution? 

[ljrodriguez]

Having the exact same issue with my 2017 Sierra Denali on my driver’s side. Following this thread in the hopes that someone discovers a solution. Thank you all!

[Fhluger]

On 6/8/2021 at 2:37 PM, Smileswithadimple said:

Can’t remember which member it was, but he is correct, the switch corroded. I ended up disconnecting switch and packing both pigtails with electric grease and taping it up, running boards now work as they should, minus the function of rotating to the back spontaneously. Lastly, as expected, they won’t go to the back, but I don’t use that option anyways. 
GL

Can you let me know please where these switches are located that you greased.  

[Tolly Roger]

Thanks very much for this post. My dealer had no clue where to start and told me the diagnostic charge would be a minimum of 2 hours!

I disconnected that switch and it works fine now. Like someone already said, I never use that "slide back" feature.

 

[Mitchell B]

Im certain the individual who posted this question has already A) solved the issue or B) sold the truck by now. In either case the solution that I found and performed on my Yukon over a year ago ( no issues to this day) was buried in an ocean of YouTube videos. I didn’t want to do the grease fittings method, as I found in another video. The method I used is shown in the attached video. Some guy did this on an F-150, (EXACTLY THE SAME CONCEPT) and it worked perfectly for me. See the link to the video. 

Hope this helps someone. 
 

 

[matt66147]

On 6/15/2020 at 1:41 PM, Superdawg said:

I am also experiencing this on a '17 Sierra Denali with ~33k miles.  I took it to a dealership last week to get them to take a look at it.  They didn't seem to have much interest in dealing with it, but also advised me that these running boards and their components are on back order due to COVID-19.

 

In the meantime, I have started to try to locate some of the individual parts to try and resolve this myself.  I haven't made much progress on that front.  At least on mine, it seems like the motor is weak for the Drivers side board.  It extends slowly, makes a 'rubber on rubber' squeaking sound while it is in motion.  Passenger side extends quickly.  This doesn't help with getting out of the truck, but getting into the truck, I have noticed that if I help the board extend by putting my foot under it and pull when I open the door, it extends just fine and remains extended as it should.  Similarly when I extend to the bed.

 

I took a photo of the motor for the part numbers, but my searches haven't come up with anything.  Here's an image of it: https://photos.app.goo.gl/E13uPgdav4bwsJRE8

 

Here is also a video showing the extend-retract issue: https://photos.app.goo.gl/BgZFMmbcJvuuP5Hr6

 

Edit: Ah, I see this was a necro thread.  Sorry for piling on.  Still relevant information, since I have not been able to find much at all on this topic.

Hello everyone.  I'm not a member, but found this thread when I was having similar issues with my 2017 sierra denali.  My DS running board would try to extend when I opened the door, but would immediately fold back under the truck.  Other times it would extend out, but slowly.  I could pull it out manually with my foot if I caught it in time while trying to enter the truck.  

I began tearing into this problem by loosening the 2 allen head bolts that clamp the arms to the step motor and the guide bar at the rear.  Next I took out the two 10mm bolts on the lower bracket on the steps which hold the bottom mount for the arms.  The 1" nut for the arms under the step was next.  Lots of penetrating oil on all 4 mounting points.

I found my problem pretty quickly when i tried to remove the rear arm from the step.  It would not budge.  Tapping with a hammer, prying with a pry bar, and doing both at the same time didn't' do a damn thing. After about an hour of repeated spraying with penetrator and hammering/prying, i was able to move the rear arm enough that I could fit a two-jaw puller onto the end of the arm.  The arm finally came off!  The red bushing inside was in decent shape, but it was full of crap.  I cleaning it thoroughly and applied red grease.  I cleaned up the mounting stud on the step with emory cloth until it was shiny again, and greased that as well.  After re-assembly, the step works perfectly.  I apologize for the lack of pictures.  I was covered in wd40, Liquid wrench, road grime, and grease, so I wasn't going to touch my phone to take pics!  It took me about 3 hours, and I had my truck on a lift.  It isn't a terribly technical problem, but it is a pain in the butt. 

[jpal]

so.. i'll add to this - and seek some help also...

i picked up a used 2017 recently  - it had the tri-mode boards - but when i picked it up they were missing.. excuse was one didn't work (suddenly) so they took them off and threw them out (liars)..

located a used set from same year same truck -  got half a story - but cheap.. i pulled them completely apart - you have to wirebrush the arm spindle bushings top n bottom till clean and shiny - clean out around the oil seals - add wheel bearing grease - reassemble.. wirebrush the motor and slave shaft - note that slave shaft will come out thru the top - after you remover the rubber cap.. shine that right up - grease - replace - apply some grease to rubber cap then replace.. mine had a slight crack where the shaft top had penetrated - black caulk on clean surface - sealed.. clean and remove all dirt etc - rust reformer to the entire bracket - replace wire clips.. the motor - same rubber cap - under the 2 bolts top of motor housing - rear end fluid - be careful not to spill ..

can't tell you how to remove the wire clip from the rear toe switch - i'm lost as to how to safely remove it w/o breaking it - a specialty - ha.. i do believe the switch is air activated - but will not come apart with the wire connector attached..

driver side rear arm - top under step had missing collar at oil seal - and oil seal was trashed - can't buy parts - so it's buy the entire arm (130.00) and hope it comes with new seals and poly red bushing sleeves.. will see.. meanwhile i fabricated a double cap n sleeve from plastic to help keep out debris - it rides on the step surface and comes down like an inch - sealed the bottom with caulk for now - greased and reinstalled..

both clean and fresh paint and all arms work effortlessly.. installed onto truck - middle lower bolt on both sides needed a bar to persuade the bracket to bow 1/8" to line up.. 

replaced the fuse - #74 - 30amp.. opened drivers doors.. f nothing..

opened pass doors - step comes out fast / delay / closes fast.. toe switch doesn't work - but dash button makes the pass board open out - then go to rear - then return to open - then close.. it's ok - since i have a cover and never reach into the bed alongside the truck - keeps it from being scratched..

drivers side - motor will not turn.. i hear the controller click - but nothing.. can't say what the large nut with bigger locknut on front of gear housing does - but unscrewing it 1" and the fluid leaks out.. i tried testing power with a cheap light - i got nothing from motor plug or controller plugs - maybe i am not the elec expert - wish someone was..

bottom line - i know i can buy a replacement arm online at a gm outlet - approx 130.00 .. the foot switch isn't a deal breaker at all - maybe washing the sliding rear window - i'll stand on a bucket..

the motor - is like 375-435 depending.. i hear they sell remanu ones at auto parts places.. like 180-200.. not sure i trust those- i've heard stories.. good n bad.. i'd say the pass motor is fine.. the mechanical condition and parts - fine.. these appear to require 2-4 times a year drop the arms n boards - clean the spindles of old dirty grease - regrease - reinstall.. not too bad - prob a 1 hr job on the ground max.

but - an arm - 130 + a motor 400 + maybe another motor ..? when or controller 225..?

and will it just be that motor ... or is something frozen inside the gear box.. 

there is no video / or bulletin or post that shows an exploded view or details or instructions as to how to take apart diagnose or repair .. 

 

i wrote this so that maybe it helps someone else ... to do each step - wash / wipe n clean / pull apart and really clean like new the movements n grease / rust converter - like 4 hrs easy each - but they look like new.. a little mothers on the chrome (can't touch up the foot wear..?) they look great..

install from scratch never seeing them on a truck - on the ground - just pick up one end and thread a long bolt half in.. middle bottom bolt - loose.. back bolt ( remember 2 long bolts at back - one top - one thru the thicker alum @ the tail.. took approx 4 hrs - i man - applying grease inbetween everything to prevent the rust - then trying to get them to work.  there is some time here.. deciding whether to keep them and spend more - or sell them and buy aftermarket.. the kicker is they look good - are wide and very solid - work with the truck and wiring like simple vs rewiring which from other videos could be 6- 10 hrs of ripping carpet let alone the center console.. 

and forget buying brand new - at 3300.. a set.. 

so - if anyone is out there  - and you know more and can help - great.. have some parts i need - great - are interested in maybe buying these and want to see a video or pictures on the truck and working and condition - please.. i'll be checking in.. 

thanks.

jp

[KMP259]

We ended up taking the Articulating running boards off to clean the corrosion off of the SS pivots and brass bushings. We broke some of the collar that hold the seal on one of the arms trying to get it off ....had to beat the arm and pry it off of the arms on the running board....

In doing so, we found the seals at McMaster Carr so we replaced the seals & reassembled the pivots on the running boards..

 

Also we cleaned up the pivots with 320 Emory cloth and polished the studs while adding Zerk fittings to add grease for better lubrication in the future.

 

The McMaster part number is 5154T71 which is 40mm OD....30mm ID.... for a rotary shaft. 

 

Hope this helps others

[Allen Thiel]

Thanks for posting guys I picked up a 2018 and all was well until recently the passenger side would start to come out but at 75% extension it would pull back in. I didn’t know where to start and came here. So a little WD-40 and viola’ works as it should. I’m going to apply something with a little more body to help keep the dust and salt out before thanksgiving would LPS be a candidate?  
 

Thanks