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AT4 BINDING After 2" Leveling Kit Installed - Nobody Else!?!?


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9 hours ago, Sierra Dan said:

The "Lift" offered by GM from the factory and for purchase through GM accessories consists of

Longer Front Shocks, Longer Rear Shocks, Taller Rear blocks and Longer CV axles.

These components work together to raise a standard truck 2" (Give or Take).

Is there any disagreement on that statement?

 

I offer a different perspective to your statement for consideration:  The standard truck components work together to lower a AT4/TB truck 2".

 

As for the comment hoping I find it's installed improperly that's not going to happen.  It's a simple straight forward installation of a simplistic spacer. Pull the wheels, loosen top strut tower bolts, pop UCA ball joint, disconnect the steering arm and sway bar and then slide the spacer in below the lower shock mount securing with provided hardware.  Do the exact same on the other side and then reverse your steps and you're done.  It's that simple....

 

Instead of jumping on the bandwagon you might read what I actually wrote and consider the points I bring up regarding technical assistance questions.  Rarely is the question asked actually answered.  I can ask something like "does the spacer go in with the shiny side up and the next 20 replies will address the virtues of a suspension lift versus a body lift.  The points I make are valid.  In today's PC world you can't have a frank discussion as sensitive people don't like the uncomfortable feeling of being challenged when facts are presented that are in conflict with their thought process.

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Regardless if the guys a dick or not, he has run into a problem that it seems no one else has. All these trucks are not identical, close, but they are made by people and machines, and not all of them are assembled exactly the same. So maybe the OP got a truck that has angles in his steering and or ball joints, that are already more towards the max in articulation then some of the other trucks on here. Alignment, spring not sitting exactly right, who knows.

Mr OP should be more open to other ideas, you're not perfect, look at this problem you made.... You did it to your truck, an engineer should have realized that the parts installed are moving things around that make a difference in everything in the front end. Your trained eye didn't catch anything when installing, the angles should speak for themselves.

Edited by gearheadesw
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I've never understood people that will join a forum, ask a question and have well meaning people try to help, only to respond with with a vitriolic or arrogant response. 

 

I'm genuinely grateful for ANYONE trying to help me out even if its apparent they didnt read or fully understand my original post. 

 

*The best feature on any forum is the "ignore user" and I've already put it to work today. I'm glad I wont  ever see post from this user again.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by Chris walker
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1 hour ago, smrr1 said:

It just sounds like the 2 inch level was too much. Back it down to 1.5 or 1 and the problems most likely will go away. Good luck. 

Thanks.  I'm going to take your advice and try a 1.5" piece and see if that resolves the issue.

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On 13/06/2019 at 3:14 PM, rikhek said:

Dan,

 

As a degreed engineer and automotive professional who lives by the creed that WORDS ARE IMPORTANT I would also point out a misnomer you made as do others which is posted on the forums daily.  You state, "Trying to add two more inches to an already 2" lifted front end...".

 

This is not an accurate or technically correct statement.  The AT4/TB IS NOT an "already lifted" front end.  The front end on a AT4/TB is designed and equipped by GM with a suspension that is 2" taller than other 4 wheel drive models.  It IS NOT already lifted.  "Already lifted" implies it's been changed from its original design and delivered height.  GM did not take a standard 4 wheel drive truck and "lift" it.  The AT4/TB come with a suspension DESIGNED to provide 2" more clearance than standard models.

 

An  analogy demonstrating my point would be to state GM is over stressing the chassis and running gear by installing a 6.2L instead of the 5.3L.  GM is trying to add 70 HP more (i.e., 355 vs. 425) to an already maxed out 5.3L engine.  Not a true statement as the 6.2L is a completely different design than the 5.3L.  It's not a 5.3L with some bolt-on's in some guys garage to produce more power.

 

Another incorrect example would be stating GM is trying to add 500 lbs payload capacity to a 1/2 ton truck by putting a 3/4 ton sticker on the vehicle.  Not true as the 3/4 ton trucks are designed for the additional payload.

 

In both examples the machine was designed for the various configurations, they aren't just adding on to an existing component.  The AT4/TB were both designed with different front AND rear suspensions to provide additional ground clearance, they didn't just put a leveling kit on at the factory to get their 2".

Whats wrong with you? Thats what you need figure out next. I think you have something binding with your personality. 

 

People were trying to help you. You have the people skills of a poodle fart. 

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On 6/13/2019 at 4:14 PM, rikhek said:

Dan,

 

As a degreed engineer and automotive professional who lives by the creed that WORDS ARE IMPORTANT I would also point out a misnomer you made as do others which is posted on the forums daily.  You state, "Trying to add two more inches to an already 2" lifted front end...".

 

This is not an accurate or technically correct statement.  The AT4/TB IS NOT an "already lifted" front end.  The front end on a AT4/TB is designed and equipped by GM with a suspension that is 2" taller than other 4 wheel drive models.  It IS NOT already lifted.  "Already lifted" implies it's been changed from its original design and delivered height.  GM did not take a standard 4 wheel drive truck and "lift" it.  The AT4/TB come with a suspension DESIGNED to provide 2" more clearance than standard models.

 

An  analogy demonstrating my point would be to state GM is over stressing the chassis and running gear by installing a 6.2L instead of the 5.3L.  GM is trying to add 70 HP more (i.e., 355 vs. 425) to an already maxed out 5.3L engine.  Not a true statement as the 6.2L is a completely different design than the 5.3L.  It's not a 5.3L with some bolt-on's in some guys garage to produce more power.

 

Another incorrect example would be stating GM is trying to add 500 lbs payload capacity to a 1/2 ton truck by putting a 3/4 ton sticker on the vehicle.  Not true as the 3/4 ton trucks are designed for the additional payload.

 

In both examples the machine was designed for the various configurations, they aren't just adding on to an existing component.  The AT4/TB were both designed with different front AND rear suspensions to provide additional ground clearance, they didn't just put a leveling kit on at the factory to get their 2".

What is your engineering degree in and how does it apply to knowledge and abilities with automotive suspension systems? I have family that are engineers but their Electrical and Nuclear degrees mean squat in the automotive suspension world. What dictates you are an automotive professional? Do you take car pictures? Sell them? 

 

If you are as intelligent and you make your self out to be, take a look at the differences between a standard 4wd truck suspension and what is added to create the AT4/Trailboss lift (yes lift, that is what they specifically call it in the press release and on their website and can easily be identified by what they use to achieve it). So think about the lift type they use (hint, it is a shock type lift), what is not changed as the engineers who designed the truck and obviously know more than you deemed a safe level to operate in (that is 2 inches), and finally what you are doing which is effectively stacking two lifts together to get 4 inches (the 2 inch shock lift and 2 inch spacer lift). That 4 inches I promise is well out of what the engineers acceptable range for their regular unchanged components. They don't use different springs (the correct way to lift a vehicle), they don't change the control arms, tie rods, etc. This is what they change: "different CV shafts, new front impact horn lowering adapter, taller front struts, longer rear shocks, rear spring spacers, taller jounce bumper mount, u-bolts/nuts". So put your engineering mind to work and let us know what you did wrong to create this issue...

 

As others have noted and you sound like you agree with, going with a lower spacer would help get the vehicle closer to the acceptable parameters set by your brothers the automotive engineers. They don't have to plan for their stuff to work outside of how it leaves the factory weather it be stacking lifts or adding a blower.  My suggestion, go with 1" as that is close enough, the further you get away from stock the better chance you have at messing something up or having it wear out sooner. That is why I went with 1.5" originally on my K2 and recently needed a shock shock change so went with the 1.25 setting from Bilstein (which is effectively the same way the AT4 and Trailboss get their lift), I didn't want to put the most stress on my stock set up as I wanted a happy medium. I know there is only so much range of motion and the further I deviate away from that the closer I am to expired time on those components. Good luck, I have a feeling that will alleviate the binding...

 

BTW, this just cracked me up! "You have the people skills of a poodle fart." Does make complete sense (maybe because I don't have a poodle) but is funny to read. 

 

Tyler

Edited by amxguy1970
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Rough Country has officially released their AT4 2" Leveling Kit.

This is definitely NOT your typical lower key spacer and is engineered quite opposite of one.

This was my whole point earlier in this thread about properly engineered components and their intended results.

 

https://www.roughcountry.com/gmc-leveling-lift-kit-1318.html

 

image.png.355507636bb3fb56c443f32d4eadfa63.png

Edited by Sierra Dan
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