First oil change

[Ozer]

Look into installing a Fumoto valve if you're going to do your own changes, makes it easier vs the drain plug.

[Bikeman]

Changed my oil at 4k, it was pretty dark. Think going to do it every 3750 moving forward and try stave off the oil consumption issues. Mobile 1 oil. Will rotate the tires too since doesn't cost me anything but 5 minutes of life. Most new vehicles have gone away from trans dip sticks because the fluid level is very temperature sensitive. It would give false readings, guys would overfill the thing. I was talking to a chevy tech, he said the 8sp trans fluid was $90 a quart, so won't be doing a $1000 trans service early?

[Moend]

4 hours ago, Ozer said:

Look into installing a Fumoto valve if you're going to do your own changes, makes it easier vs the drain plug.

Not fan of those. I live in small town so vandalism is not an issue here but I never had any trubles doing it the old fashion way. After changing the oil on my old truck for 100k miles I had the seal on the plug goes bad once at 90ish k miles. The guy at the dealership gave me the plug for free as I was their last customer before they closed for Christmas ?

[BenThere]

22 hours ago, Moend said:

I do agree. Sounds like all fluids are easy to change. The only potential pain in the butt one is the transmission as I can't seem to find the automatic transmission fluid dip stick to save my life.

I see what you did there.  

[UGADawgs]

We have fumotos on all our vehicles. Wouldn't have a vehicle without it. 

[brianc636]

Change my oil last week. 586 miles and added a magnetic drain plug.

 

Went with M1 filter and oil, 5-20. Next time I’ll add a Stahlbus drain to it so it minimizes the mess.

 

[HapaTrailBoss]

Every 5k with full synthetic. 

[Moend]

Changed the oil today. Just love how ready it is on the trucks. 5000 miles used M1 and fram ultra synthetic . Usually I use ACDelco filters but they were out

 

Edited July 24, 2019 by Moend
Wrong data entered.

[OnTheReel]

41 minutes ago, Moend said:

Changed the oil today. Just love how ready it is on the trucks. 5000 miles used M1 and fram extra gourd. Usually I use ACDelco filters but they were out

Mobil 1, but then a Fram Extra Guard?!? ?

 

I would have taken a few bucks out of the oil budget and put it toward at least a Tough Guard. Mobil 1 will be good for about 3 times longer than that filter.

[MacLaren]

Fellas, what oil do they come with new to the dealer? AC Delco? Mobil 1?

[Texas Daddy]

I’ve owned lots of trucks and cars. Until the last couple I’ve gone extended mostly with Amsoil. I’ve never changed early, ever. Some of my early trucks were pullers with goose neck trailers. The DI and cylinder deactivation engines made me nervous so I used the extreme service schedule. Kinda defeats the gas savings the claim. I’ve never lost an engine, even the ones I’d take to the track. Add to that I had a clearing and equipment resale business. Hundreds of equipment when through my fingers. In the 90s we double the hours on our equipment with synthetics. Save us loads of money. No engine loss. Do the math. Over the lifetime of early oil changes how much money does it cost? Enough to buy an engine? I had a similar experience with tire rotation. I usually would go 10K rotations. They recommended 5K. I could buy tires with the extra rotation cost in the average life of the tires. I happened to be looking at push mowers recently. Briggs is advertising never changing the oil in their engines.


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Its not just about piece of mind, its about the 2 beers you enjoy while doing the the oil change [emoji16]

The argument for early vs. regular scheduled is: it simply cant hurt doing it early. I want all the metal chunks and filings out after break in. I just did mine at 2100, but last truck was at 1100...

Coming from gmt900, these drains look much easier to use - I hated that sideways valve crap. Those fumoto valves seem like a good idea until you realize they take 3 times as long to drain, and have a skinny stream that gets blown all around when its windy making a mess...

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[Black02Silverado]

1 hour ago, MacLaren said:

Fellas, what oil do they come with new to the dealer? AC Delco? Mobil 1?

Unless you are the guy that fills the oil at the factory, nobody really knows which one.  You will get all kinds of answers but for me to believe it, I would have to see exactly what is in the container that fills the engines as they get assembled. One has to remember, manufactures are getting parts from the lowest bidder.  It is all about $$$$.

[KARNUT]

Its not just about piece of mind, its about the 2 beers you enjoy while doing the the oil change [emoji16]

The argument for early vs. regular scheduled is: it simply cant hurt doing it early. I want all the metal chunks and filings out after break in. I just did mine at 2100, but last truck was at 1100...

Coming from gmt900, these drains look much easier to use - I hated that sideways valve crap. Those fumoto valves seem like a good idea until you realize they take 3 times as long to drain, and have a skinny stream that gets blown all around when its windy making a mess...

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From 73 390 Fords, 7.3 Ford Diesel, V-10 Dodge, 5.9 Cummings 6.5 GM 454 Chevy, we would pickup at the dealership. Then to the outfitters. Add a fifth wheel or gooseneck ball. Usually to our muffler guy. Hook up to camper, hay trailer or goose neck trailer. Pull to horse-show, deliver hay, or piece of equipment. With the 390 Ford c-6 transmission 410 gear or overdrive transmission in drive the engines would sing pulling the loads. Gas @ 3K RPMs Diesel @ redline. All on factory fill oil. Usually at 3K miles switch to Amsoil and extended. Never loss an engine. I wouldn’t dare on these Prima Dona engines these days. Except the 6.0 or the Ford gas and the Toyota gas. The hay day of the indestructible light diesel ended in the 90s.


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[MaverickZ71]

GM's own Dexos motor oil is currently rated higher than Mobil 1.  But you have to buy it at the dealer or online.  Somebody on here said it was on sale right now on Rockauto.com. 

 

The current upgraded Dexos spec call for a 'full-synthetic' oil, not a 'synthetic blend'.  (No, I'm not going to argue what constitutes a 'full-synthetic' on here, go read 10,000 pages on BITOG if you want to get into all of that.)  What they put in at the factory is Dexos-rated oil bought in big bulk quantities--you'd have to have a friend who works at the factory to find out who the current lowest-bidder lubricant provider was.  

 

Just use a quality full-synthetic Dexos-rated oil in the proper viscosity and quantity, and a quality oil filter, and change them at the OLM-indicated intervals (or sooner, if it makes you feel better), and you should be good, barring any cylinder deactivation system problems. 

 

I used to always use the AC Delco oil filters until they changed to the "e-core" ones with the plastic cage internals and glued on paper end caps, and they had all of the problems with the early ones.  Now I use Shell Rotella Gas Truck oil and Wix oil filters (same as NAPA Gold or Platinum).  

Edited July 22, 2019 by MaverickZ71

[Moend]

On 7/21/2019 at 11:10 PM, OnTheReel said:

Mobil 1, but then a Fram Extra Guard?!? ?

 

I would have taken a few bucks out of the oil budget and put it toward at least a Tough Guard. Mobil 1 will be good for about 3 times longer than that filter.

Just seen my post you are right the extra guard is the cheapest one. I bought the most expensive one ultra synthetic. Fram should consider their naming lol extra guard sounds the best but I guess it is not. My bad

Edited July 24, 2019 by Moend
Wrong stuff