Any way to reset learning?

[Silverado-Hareek]

On 5/16/2019 at 8:32 PM, 14SLE said:

This may be a rather strange question, but is it possible to reset the learned driving habits?  My 2014 GMC Sierra 1500 SLE 4x4 crew cab drove great for the the first year (new to about 10,000 miles).  The truck was very responsive and the AFM was not bad then--it only kicked in at about 45 mph or greater and it was not objectionable.  After about a year, the AFM started engaging much more aggressively and at lower speeds--the truck would periodically jerk violently when it entered V4 mode.  It began trying hard to avoid downshifting, so there is absolutely no power when you turn corners or start up a hill unless you really shove down on the gas pedal.  I distinctly remember a coworker saying, "What's wrong with this thing?!?" soon after the clunking and other stuff started.  The dealer said it was learning my driving habits and everything was normal.  Now, I have 57k miles on the truck and I really do not enjoy driving it anymore.  I have about a 25 mile commute with long stretches of 35 mph speed zones.  If I don't drive in M5 or activate the Range device, the truck repeatedly goes "CLUNK, lug, SQUEAK!" as the AFM engages, the truck lugs along for a bit, and goes back to V8 mode (with passive exhaust valve squeak, of course). I have noticed the clunking is much worse when the outside temperature is below about 45 degrees. The dealership says I am stuck with this behavior because it has adapted to my low-speed stretches and there is nothing I can do about it.  They say most of their similar complaints come from people who drive at lower speeds. 

 

The truck has only been maintained at the dealership--I got tired of them saying I was not maintaining my last truck properly (Mobil-1 changes at 4-5k miles or 45% oil monitor remaining, coolant and transmission flushes at 30-35k, and all fluids replaced at 50k miles, mind you). I have had them do far more maintenance than recommended and I don't hesitate to throw this fact back in their face when they start to say I have done something wrong to cause the bad behavior (they said going too long between oil changes probably caused it until I told them to check their records).  They tried pulling the battery and it didn't help anything.  I would love to have my truck drive the way it did when it was new.  I know I could get a tune, but I have an 84 month, 84K mile warranty and I don't want to risk having too many increments of the flash counter.  My dealer says to get a tune when the warranty expires, but I doubt I will keep the truck that long--I honestly don't have much faith that the drive train will hold together.  The constant "clunk-lug-squeak!" reminds me of the clown cars you see at a circus.  Does anyone know of a way to reset the learned behavior or do I have to live with it until I get rid of the truck?  I can get access to SPS if there is a way to resolve this via the dealership tools.  Any help would certainly be appreciated!

Yes there is a way to put it back into learn mode.  Pull the following fuses from your engine bay fuse box for 30 minutes, then put them back in: 34, 39, 43, 51

 

Fair Warning:  I've done this a few times and the truck always drives great immediately after doing the fuse pull for a couple of thousand miles and then it goes to s**t again.  These adaptive transmissions are just awful and there is no cure other than to maybe getting a tune (not sure if that works on the adaptive learning function or not) or buy a different brand truck.  Good luck.

[14SLE]

6 hours ago, Silverado-Hareek said:

Yes there is a way to put it back into learn mode.  Pull the following fuses from your engine bay fuse box for 30 minutes, then put them back in: 34, 39, 43, 51

 

Fair Warning:  I've done this a few times and the truck always drives great immediately after doing the fuse pull for a couple of thousand miles and then it goes to s**t again.  These adaptive transmissions are just awful and there is no cure other than to maybe getting a tune (not sure if that works on the adaptive learning function or not) or buy a different brand truck.  Good luck.

If that actually works, you will be my hero forever (or at least until I get another vehicle).  One question--how is this different than pulling the battery cable?  The dealership pulled the battery cable while they were changing the oil not long after I started complaining about the problem.  For the first 100 miles or so, the truck was pretty spastic as it relearned its fuel maps, but then it went right back to aggressively activating AFM.  That was during the "clunk" era, as I recall.

 

I hear you about the adaptive transmissions being awful.  I have no idea what vehicle I will get next--I have begun to start thinking about it since I only have two years of extended warranty left.  As an engineer, I hate seeing needless features being stuffed into vehicles nowadays.  It really makes me wish I could move to some part of the country where I could drive my old cars all the time.  Are there any trucks that get fairly reasonable mileage and don't have all of the emissions/fuel economy garbage?  At least the current truck doesn't have auto stop/start--I couldn't handle that, especially since you cannot disable it on GM vehicles.

 

Thanks for the advice--I can't wait to see what happens!  I can pull the fuses regularly if it makes the truck decent to drive again.

[Silverado-Hareek]

10 hours ago, 14SLE said:

If that actually works, you will be my hero forever (or at least until I get another vehicle).  One question--how is this different than pulling the battery cable?  The dealership pulled the battery cable while they were changing the oil not long after I started complaining about the problem.  For the first 100 miles or so, the truck was pretty spastic as it relearned its fuel maps, but then it went right back to aggressively activating AFM.  That was during the "clunk" era, as I recall.

 

I hear you about the adaptive transmissions being awful.  I have no idea what vehicle I will get next--I have begun to start thinking about it since I only have two years of extended warranty left.  As an engineer, I hate seeing needless features being stuffed into vehicles nowadays.  It really makes me wish I could move to some part of the country where I could drive my old cars all the time.  Are there any trucks that get fairly reasonable mileage and don't have all of the emissions/fuel economy garbage?  At least the current truck doesn't have auto stop/start--I couldn't handle that, especially since you cannot disable it on GM vehicles.

 

Thanks for the advice--I can't wait to see what happens!  I can pull the fuses regularly if it makes the truck decent to drive again.

The fuse pull cuts the power to the transmission related components only whereas disconnecting the battery cuts the power to the entire truck. Both accomplish the same thing with regards to the transmission but disconnecting the battery would also reset all of your radio settings, presets, etc.  

 

as far as what trucks get decent gas mileage, I always say if you’re interested in saving gas, don’t buy a truck.  Fuel savings shouldn’t be your primary goal with a truck. With that being said, the Ram Ecodiesel is probably the most fuel efficient and least annoying truck to drive to achieve the fuel savings.

 

good luck. I’ve already decided if my truck doesn’t make it to at least 150,000 miles without any major engine or transmission repairs, I’m going straight to Toyota and never looking back. I’m already on my second Silverado in 12 years and did not have good luck with my first one. 

[14SLE]

I totally understand your situation--good luck in getting to 150k miles.   My wife is a Michigander who was raised in a GM family, so we have owned seven new GMs (cars, minivans, trucks, SUVs) since 1992.  Despite following maintenance recommendations to the letter, we have never gotten more than 50k miles without losing an engine (early Quad-4 blew at 1K miles), head gasket (3.4L at 30k), or water pump on any GM prior to my current pickup.  In fact, I almost forgot to have the coolant in my truck changed at 50k miles because I have NEVER had to do it before--it has always been changed with the water pump every 30-40K miles.  I loved my last vehicle (2004 Tahoe Z-71), but the Castech heads cracked at 100K miles and the transmission got a 2-3 shift flare at 120k.  This was in addition to the fuel pump, gauge cluster, 4WD shift motor, front wheel bearings, etc. that failed before 120K miles.

 

Honestly, I will probably trade the truck before my extended warranty expires--I'm not going to sink $10k into this truck like I did with the Tahoe.  I actually test drove a used Toyota Tundra before buying the GMC--it was several years old, had 40k miles, and cost more than the new GMC.

 

By the way, my wife now drives a Toyota and she loves it.  So far, 56k trouble-free miles. 

[tmo]

How are you only making it to 50k? This seems exaggerated. My mom has almost 200k on her 2014 Acadia, we have a 2004 Tahoe with 210k, a 2006 Duramax with 178k, a 92 farm truck that is maintained horribly with god only knows how many miles since the odometer is busted, my 2015 Sierra had 81k and we haven’t had issues with any of them except the trans in the Acadia at 150k. All have been extremely reliable and I plan on taking my 2018 Sierra well past 200k. The only reason my 15 didn’t was because some dude ran a red light and totaled it.

 

[diyer2]

If you don't use fuel system cleaner give it a try.

Easy and cost effective so why not?

I like Sea Foam because it works and Wally world has the best price.

BG 44 k is expensive but is the most potent I believe. I have used it.

Try a treatment of BG 44 K?

Several tanks of Sea Foam or Barrymans B12?

 

 

 

[14SLE]

I really envy those of you who get 200K miles from your GMs.  I have gotten nearly 200K miles from older imports, but never a GM.  I do use fuel cleaner (Chevron Techron) at regular intervals.  I have my transmission fluid changed at 40-50K intervals and my coolant changed at around 50K intervals (both are done professionally, usually at dealerships).  My oil is changed at 3K (mineral) or 5K (synthetic) intervals.  I have always done it myself (which is how I discovered many of the leaks underneath a vehicle) but now the dealer does it cheaper than I can do it, so I let them.

 

Here is our list of woes:

 

1992 Achieva SC, which was my wife's (then girlfriend's) first new car.  Engine had low oil pressure when I drove it at 500 miles, so we took it to dealer, who said it was OK.  Engine threw a rod at 900 miles.  She got a new car, which had a bad dash cluster when she drove it off the lot. It ate coil pack housings and it ate a water pump before 50K miles.  At around 60K, the dash cluster failed again.  At 75K, we needed a bigger car due to the family growing and no dealer would take the Achieva on trade due to the engine's reputation.  We basically gave it to a coworker at wholesale.

 

Next, 1997 Chevrolet K1500 extended cab.  First model year with third door, which was hung incorrectly and never closed properly.  Several dealerships tried to fix it but could never get it right.  Alignment issue on day #1 and an injector failed at a few thousand miles.  I had the rear differential fluid changed at 1K miles per recommendation (with friction modifier), but the rear end was making noise at 31K miles.  Since the warranty was about up, I traded it.  I can't remember if it ate a water pump, but I'm thinking it might have.  I remember taking it to the dealership quite a few times because they could never make things right.

 

The Achieva was replaced with a 1998 Pontiac Montana.  It was actually pretty decent, but I believe it still ate a water pump by 50K.  We sold it at 58K to get a nicer 2003 Olds Silhouette.  That van was very nice but it had a head gasket leak at 35K miles.  The rear wheel bearings failed on a trip at 65K miles.  It ate rear lamp holder buckets for lunch.

 

Next, my 2004 Tahoe Z-71.  An electrical issue when new would drain the battery if it sat for more than a few days without being run.  At around 31K, a front axle seal and the water pump started leaking.  At 35K, the shift encoder motor failed.  All driveline fluids were changed by the dealer at 50K (front to rear)--they thought I was crazy to do that. Front wheel bearings failed at 70K and the rear wiring harness corroded at the rear junction box.  In the 90's, the instrument cluster failed and the Castech heads cracked at 100K, so I installed a Jasper rebuilt engine.  At 110K, the fuel sending unit failed, requiring an expensive flex-fuel pump.  At 120k, the transmission developed a 2-3 shift flare (allegedly common), requiring the transmission to be rebuilt.  In the 130s, the brake lines were dying and the HVAC controls (front passenger and rear) were periodically malfunctioning, so I traded it in on the Sierra.

 

The 2003 Silhoutte was replaced with a 2009 Acadia SLT.  This truck wasn't bad, but it had multiple electric steering issues and it ate a water pump before the first 50K change.  We traded it at 89K because everyone we knew with a similar Acadia had a timing chain failure at somewhere around 100k miles.  My wife now has a 2015 RAV4 Limited AWD, which has had zero problems in 56K miles.

 

My 2014 Sierra has actually been pretty good except for the clunk/lug/slam of the AFM system.  It actually made it to 50K with the original water pump, which seems to be a minor miracle.  However, I really don't enjoy driving it, so it will probably go bye-bye when the 84/84K warranty is about to expire (I'm not going to put a $1K+ A/C system in it--I installed the bracket, but I don't know if that will keep it from failing.

 

So, those of you who get 200K miles from your GMs, I salute you.  We have a 1991 Mitsubishi 3000GT with 175K miles that I drive daily during the summer--there are days I trust it more than my truck. 

[thebronze]

I have 280K+ on my 2015 Suburban LT.

[Pearl2017]

do yourself a favor and get a tuner to shut off AFM and most of your clunking issues will go away along with risk of collapsing lifters.

[Pearl2017]

...Ill just add one thing to the AFM disable statement ...if you've put larger diameter tires on and have not re-calibrated for that it can contribute to trans problems. This is not just about correcting the speedometer, the Gen v torque management system calculates many variables to operate smoothly. if you don't program for larger tires its calculations become less correct and IMO some chunkiness results. I experienced this first hand and corrected for it and issues have not returned.

[b00001]

17 hours ago, Pearl2017 said:

...Ill just add one thing to the AFM disable statement ...if you've put larger diameter tires on and have not re-calibrated for that it can contribute to trans problems. This is not just about correcting the speedometer, the Gen v torque management system calculates many variables to operate smoothly. if you don't program for larger tires its calculations become less correct and IMO some chunkiness results. I experienced this first hand and corrected for it and issues have not returned.

How much larger did you go?  Good info!  I am going from 32 to 33 and was NOT planning on re-calibrating at this time...

[Pearl2017]

I went from stock 275/55 R20 @ 655 revs per mile to Michelin defender 285/65 R20 @ 602 revs per mile. So 655/602=1.088 or 8.8% larger and each tire is 15 lbs heavier. On the stock tires after 25K miles with no issue. On the new tires i got the chuggle within 5k miles. After dealer flush fix  another 2k mile i could feel the chuggle happening again sporadically. I needed to go on a business trip so decided to tune the speedo on the way. After tuning the speedo was dead on with GPS and chuggles completely went away and been smooth ever since ~8k miles.

Edited August 4, 2019 by Pearl2017

[14SLE]

I totally agree that the tuning is likely to fix the truck--even some dealership service personnel told me it will make the truck run better.  However, I have an 84 month/84K mile extended warranty, so they strongly recommend waiting to get it tuned until the warranty has expired in case something happens in the meantime.  I'm using the Range Technology device, which makes the truck far more tolerable.  However, I just wonder why it isn't possible to get the truck back to the way it was when it was new--it ran well and the AFM wasn't objectionable.  I would love to have that truck back! 

 

BTW, my truck is bone stock--no larger tires or anything else.  Other than new tires at 50K, nothing has changed since new except for time, mileage (60K now), and maintenance.