Mod Ideas

[carsonj493]

2 hours ago, TXGREEK said:

 

Here’s my 2018 CC Z71 6.2 with a 2.25” level up front and 1” added rear, ride like crap with the level and had to buy new wheels = $2500 minus tires. A $1200 bracket lift and $600-$800 for install= $2000 total while keeping your wheels and 33”-35” tires. Much better ground clearance.




Here’s the same truck with a CST 4.5-5” Bracket Lift, keeping stock ride.


No leveled or lifted truck will ride as smooth as a Bracket Lift and when comparing to the overall cost, the Bracket Lift wins hands down.
The leveling messes up geometry in your suspension as do many lifts, not the bracket lift. Bracket lift allows YOU to at least have a choice in whether or not you want to buy new wheels (at least allowing you time to save for new wheels) not making have to buy new wheels. Btw, a level is not a lift, a lift comes with added parts to lower differential etc.

In my case, I’ve always owned lifted trucks and SUV’s and leveled only cause I thought my garage wouldn’t allow a lifted truck, I was wrong, 3.5” clearance from shark fin antenna.

Good luck to OP, just my own personal experience and I’ll NEVER level again with blocks/spacers. There’s also King and CST Coil Overs 2-3” leveling which WILL also give a great ride but pricier than Bracket Lift having to add UCA’s. Good luck!


Sent from above

 

Rides like crap? My truck had zero noticeable change in the ride quality. 

 

Not everyone wants to lift their trucks 4-5”. A knuckle kit is better, but it’s just not for everyone. 

 

I looked into doing a 5” lift before going with the 2.5” level. All the quotes I got for that 5” lift with new tires and wheels was double of what I spent on the setup I went with. 

 

All in I spent under $2,500. 2.5” level ($150), new wheels($850), and tires ($1,260). Install was free because I did it myself, something I likely wouldn’t do myself for a knuckle kit..

 

The OP said he was wanting to fit 33”s to 35”s with a level. He said nothing about wanting a 5” to 6” lift kit. That’s an entirely different story..

 

So if he wants to fit 33”s on just a level, I shared with him my setup and how he could achieve that goal if he was just wanting a level and didn’t mind new wheels. Didn’t realize I would offend a “anti-leveler” ?‍♂️ Lol, jk. 

Edited May 7, 2019 by carsonj493

[TXGREEK]

Rides like crap? My truck had zero noticeable change in the ride quality. 

 

Not everyone wants to lift their trucks 4-5”. A knuckle kit is better, but it’s just not for everyone. 

 

I looked into doing a 5” lift before going with the 2.5” level. All the quotes I got for that 5” lift with new tires and wheels was double of what I spent on the setup I went with. 

 

All in I spent under $2,500. 2.5” level ($150), new wheels($850), and tires ($1,260). Install was free because I did it myself, something I likely wouldn’t do myself for a knuckle kit..

 

The OP said he was wanting to fit 33”s to 35”s with a level. He said nothing about wanting a 5” to 6” lift kit. That’s an entirely different story..

 

So if he wants to fit 33”s on just a level, I shared with him my setup and how he could achieve that goal if he was just wanting a level and didn’t mind new wheels. Didn’t realize I would offend a “anti-leveler” [emoji2369] Lol, jk. 

 

Leveling with spacers affects ride quality screwing with suspension angles, adding E rated tire makes it even worse. Spacers are not recommended also wearing suspension. Cost effectiveness, low cost lift is better cause angles will be much better than a leveled truck. Bracket lift is superior to a knuckle lift cause it doesn’t widen your track width and doesn’t shorten your turning radius and allows you to keep stock wheels and tires thus saving you money not being forced to buy new wheels and keeping stock geometry giving stock ride until you add E rated tires.

My experience along with others that have admitted ride quality is rougher when leveling cause it screws with your front suspension uca’s geometry. Sure it’s cheaper to use spacers, but you cry once doing it right. Again, I’ve done it and this is my personal hands on experience.

 

 

Sent from above

[carsonj493]

16 minutes ago, TXGREEK said:

 

Leveling with spacers affects ride quality screwing with suspension angles, adding E rated tire makes it even worse. Spacers are not recommended also wearing suspension. Cost effectiveness, low cost lift is better cause angles will be much better and leveled truck. Bracket lift is superior to a knuckle lift cause it doesn’t widen your track width and doesn’t shorten your turning radius and allows you to keep stock wheels and tires thus saving you money not being forced to buy new wheels and keeping stock geometry giving stock ride until you add E rated tires.
My experience along with others that have admitted ride quality is rougher when leveling cause it screws with your front suspension uca’s geometry. Sure it’s cheaper to use spacers, but you cry once doing it right. Again, I’ve done it and this is my personal hands on experience.


Sent from above

 

I seriously don’t know what your going on about, nobody is disagreeing with you as to what’s better..

 

Idk what you want me to say. In my experience the ride quality with a level is nearly indistinguishable from stock. It certainly isn’t as bad as you make it out to be in my opinion in terms of the ride quality. 

 

If you dont like levels, then don’t do them. Many other people are happy with their levels. The OP asked about running larger tires with a level. He didn’t ask about a lift kit.  

 

Should I have not gave advice based on my experience fitting larger tires on a level? Because that is what the OP was asking about ?‍♂️

[TXGREEK]

I seriously don’t know what your going on about, nobody is disagreeing with you as to what’s better..
 
Idk what you want me to say. In my experience the ride quality with a level is nearly indistinguishable from stock. It certainly isn’t as bad as you make it out to be in my opinion in terms of the ride quality. 
 
If you dont like levels, then don’t do them. Many other people are happy with their levels. The OP asked about running larger tires with a level. He didn’t ask about a lift kit.  
 
Should I have not gave advice based on my experience fitting larger tires on a level? Because that is what the OP was asking about [emoji2369]

It’s good that others know of the ride quality difference after leveling, you and some others may be fine having a ride quality change in the negative but that’s something anyone interested in leveling should know before. Many going into leveling, I myself bought Bilstein 5100’s in hopes of smoothening the ride which didn’t do so. Again, You may be fine with the rougher ride quality which IS what you get in worsening your front end suspension geometry in addition to adding stress to the suspension creating failures sooner than expected but others will regret it especially if on a budget. OP is unaware that it doesn’t stop with just spacers and later will be wishing he did the Bracket Lift for a bit more than a cheap level.

So you have your opinion and I’ve given mine, let’s let OP do the numbers and figure it on his own, moving on......


Sent from above

[Jacoby]

5100’s are stiffer than oem. Just saying

 

greek coming in and hijackin another thread. 

[SSchup]

I really don't see the big deal with just leveling to run a little larger tire. A 2" level kit will allow you to run a 33" tire. Depending on the tire if it is E rated, sure it will ride a little stiffer. Worst case scenario, you may need to go to an aftermarket control arm.  You can buy a Readylift 2 1/4" level kit with uca's for under $500.00, and not worry about rubbing on the uca's. Still a hell of a lot cheaper then doing a full suspension lift.

I'm sure many people are not interested in spending the additional money and cutting up a brand new truck to get an additional 2 1/2"- 3" of lift.

I ran a 2 1/2" level on my 2018 for 6 months with a 33 1/2" E rated tire and it rode just fine. My truck is now lifted 4 1/2", but that was my original plan, just needed the time off from work to install the lift.

Obviously it rides better with the lift, but that's because I spent additional money for full coilovers. So hardly a comparison to just leveling.

[carsonj493]

4 minutes ago, SSchup said:

I really don't see the big deal with just leveling to run a little larger tire. A 2" level kit will allow you to run a 33" tire. Depending on the tire if it is E rated, sure it will ride a little stiffer. Worst case scenario, you may need to go to an aftermarket control arm.  You can buy a Readylift 2 1/4" level kit with uca's for under $500.00, and not worry about rubbing on the uca's. Still a hell of a lot cheaper then doing a full suspension lift.

I'm sure many people are not interested in spending the additional money and cutting up a brand new truck to get an additional 2 1/2"- 3" of lift.

I ran a 2 1/2" level on my 2018 for 6 months with a 33 1/2" E rated tire and it rode just fine. My truck is now lifted 4 1/2", but that was my original plan, just needed the time off from work to install the lift.

Obviously it rides better with the lift, but that's because I spent additional money for full coilovers. So hardly a comparison to just leveling.

Exactly. You worded it much better than me, thanks. 

[Druder]

I put 265/70r18 on my truck. They're 32.6" so not a full 33" but close and no rubbing stock. I get complimented on the look all the time, I don't really see a difference anymore.

[Ravenkeeper]

On 5/4/2019 at 7:54 PM, Darmichar said:

You might want to start here:

 

 

I've done a few of these, on both my '15 and now my '18, each one costs less than $50.

 

Completed:

• Diode MODs ($0.75 for 2 diodes)
  • ALL forward-facing white lights ON with HIGHs
  • ALL rear-facing white lights ON in REVERSE
  • ('15) Puddle Lights ON with Door(s) OPEN
• AFT Frame Plugs ($12)
• Tow Hitch Tail/Brake Light ($12 + about $5 for splices + $8 RED LED Bulbs + $4 12" 4-Wire Extension)
• Bed Divider (2x12 $16, paint $10)
• Removed AM/FM Antenna (FREE + $2 for 3/4" plug)
• ('18) Hidden AM/FM Antennas ($20)  (in progress of installing)
• ('18) BRIGHT White LED Light Bulbs for Reverse/Cargo Lights ($10?)
• ('18) Driver's Assist Handle ($50)
• ('18) Bed Rail Stake Hole Plugs (Hand Grabs - $12)

('18) Planned:

• Front Tow Hitch ($48)
• Rear USBs, on back of center console ($25)
• Step (NERF) Rail LED Lighting (<$40)
• (UNDER) Engine Hood Lighting (<$20)
• Trailer Lights MOMENTARY Kill Switch ($10?)
• CB/Scanner ($0 - removed from '15 and installing into '18, $20 for new antenna bracket & cable)