Help with Lift kit / Travel distance 2500 HD

[za5teesh]

Hello guys!! 

 

So i have a GMC Sierra 2500 HD 2009 (6.0 V8 Gas engine Crew Cab) and i wanted to give it a better look so i decided to use a leveling kit. When i installed the leveling kit on my truck, the truck had a really great stance with the front and back leveled. BUT, here is where the problem started. The truck became really rough and i could feel every pothole and bump on the street and off-road. At first i didn't really know what the problem was until i realized that i lost all the travel distance between my upper control arms and the frame. I was very disappointed because i had the looks but not the comfort. However, that was the cheap way of having a lifted look. 

 

Now i'm thinking of installing a full 6" lift kit to my truck. However, i'm having some doubts and thoughts about the lift kit. I did some research for many months now, checked many forums and watched many videos, non of which really told me anything about the travel distance (I attached a picture to show what i mean)  between the upper control arms and frame after the 6" lift kit installation. I know i will have to do some modifications to some parts on the truck to fit the 6" lift kit parts, which is fine. 

 

What i really want to know is:

1. After installing a 6" lift kit, will i have a comfy ride? Meaning, will the travel distance issue be gone?
2. When offroading with the truck after installing the 6" lift kit, will i have enough travel distance to make some small (Very small jumps) and not feel a rough ride during offroading?
3. Is it gonna be a problem for me after installing the 6" lift kit to tow anything? will towing damage my truck (with the lift installed)?
4. What is the best 6" lift kit to put on a 2009 2500HD crew cab? What defines a good lift kit?
5. I have seen many lift kits and almost all the lift kits look or have something different, even when both are used to give the same lift size. Why is that?

 

Please give me advice or help with this issue.

 

 

Thank you.

[davester]

The stock setup is designed to ride well and have reasonable suspension travel.

 

Really cheap levelling kits amount to just turning up the keys, so the suspension rides pretty close to one end of the suspension range (the fully-extended end of the range).

 

Proper lift kits (which a 6" kit would be), effectively move the pivot points for the front a-arms down 6" relative to the frame (or will just move the bottom ones down 6" and have a custom upper A-arm that extends down 6"), and you leave the keys in the stock spot, so it's relatively in the same spot as the stock height.  And with a 6" lift in the back, you would then have the same overall rake, so people only lift the rear end up 4" and the truck is then level.

 

 

[Formulabruce]

 Keep in mind when you move the body ( which INCLUDES the radiator and shroud) you will have to modify the cooling system, going to a electric set up and or new longer hoses and different shroud. \

 All for the look?  The ride sucks, and the truck can tow less safely.

 I know how looks "matters"  to many, but having a truck thats reliable and works well and doesn't EAT tires, OR my spine, rates above the "stance".

 The trucks sit like they do for bed load capacity and tongue weight capacity and RIDE comfort.

 Consider the STRETCH of everything on the body ( steering too) when you make this wallet robbing decision.

Edit, Jumps should be made with a truck that has more give in the suspension... a 1/2 ton truck.

 are you the new "Fall Guy"  

Edited April 28, 2019 by Formulabruce

[davester]

I'm not sure what you (Formulabruce) are talking about, as the O.P. isn't referring to a body-lift kit, but a regular lift kit, which just shifts the wheels lower relative to the frame.  No need to length hoses/modify the cooling system, anything like that.

 

And the ride with one of these lift kits is similar to the original suspension setup, as they effectively just move the wheels down 6" relative to the frame.  It's not exactly the same, as the C.O.G. of the truck is higher up, so cornering won't feel the same, but it is much better than just turning the keys up to level the truck.

[za5teesh]

3 hours ago, Formulabruce said:

 Keep in mind when you move the body ( which INCLUDES the radiator and shroud) you will have to modify the cooling system, going to a electric set up and or new longer hoses and different shroud. \

 All for the look?  The ride sucks, and the truck can tow less safely.

 I know how looks "matters"  to many, but having a truck thats reliable and works well and doesn't EAT tires, OR my spine, rates above the "stance".

 The trucks sit like they do for bed load capacity and tongue weight capacity and RIDE comfort.

 Consider the STRETCH of everything on the body ( steering too) when you make this wallet robbing decision.

Edit, Jumps should be made with a truck that has more give in the suspension... a 1/2 ton truck.

 are you the new "Fall Guy"  

I think that is a body lift kit. I was talking about suspension lift kit. With the suspension lift kit you don't need to move body parts, just suspension, steering, diff...