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It doesn’t have to be dyno tuned.  The dyno will just help squeeze every last HP.  You could buy a tune from someone like Atomic performance.  He supplies you HP tuners program for your computer.  Then you just email him back and forth using your credits to tune your truck.

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7 hours ago, JONBLARC7 said:

I bought my HP tuners from him and I’m learning to tune my truck NA myself.  But as soon as I go Boosted he will be the one I’ll be using.

How many hp do you made with just with tuning ?

Do you modified the hexhaust and install a cold air intake ?

At the moment I deleted the muffler, I think to delete the cats too.

What do you will install to boost your truck ?

Turbo or Supercharger ?

I think that Turbo is better about fuel economy and horsepowers.

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I haven’t put it on the dyno so I don’t no but the old butt dyno say it picked up pretty good.  They say with header, E85 and intake or modified stock intake these newer 6.2 will put down 420 rwhp.  Right now I just have the tune, modified stock intake and E85 sensor added.  I will have headers very soon.

 

since I run a 33” tire mine will never be an all out track truck I think I’ll go supercharger.  A supercharger should just be slap it on and forget about.  A turbo can be alittle more finicky.  But turbo will make more power easier. 

 

Since boosting my daily I’ll go supercharger if it was a toy like your it would be turbo all the way.

 

MPG who knows they both should be about the same as stock out of boost maybe just a tiny bit better if you drive it like a grandma since instead of down shifting it should just make a few pounds of boost to get you over a hill or pass a car slowly.  Buy they both will  drink gas if you put you foot in it.

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That’s true but that’s not what I’m talking about.  It’s easier to handle big power with a turbo.  Your blower is going to be harder to control intake temps than a turbo for a high boosted pass.  But pulling a boat through the mountains at low boost (like 6-10 pounds).  Your supercharger temps will climbed and stabilize and turbo will just keep getting hotter.

 

I like them both and they both have there place.  I’m not trying to talk down either one.

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Looks like Armageddon is doing just fine. They use quality, name brand turbochargers while most of the other kits use Chinese copies. They also had Kooks exhaust make all the hot side piping so you know it is top quality and wont burn up in a year like thin China 304 stainless. They may a bit more expensive initially but if you buy a cheap China kit and blow a turbo in a week or have all kinds of exhaust leaks after a year, then have to spend the money on a Garrett and custom hot-side then it will be just as expensive as doing it right the first time. https://goturbo.net/product/2014-2016-chevrolet-silverado-twin-turbo-kit-500-1500hp/

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On 4/14/2019 at 9:54 AM, KARNUT said:

I can go from 6LBs of boost to 12 with a 10 minute change of a pulley. Can’t get any easier than that.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

With a turbo you can do it with the push of a button, so it can get easier than that, much easier.

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Turbos

+power

+efficiency

+less shock to drivetrain when power is applied

+tuneability with adjusting power on the fly or even by the gear

+if your crafty you can piece together a turbo kit very cheap as the turbo itself is generally not the expensive part

+lower intake temps are easier to achieve because of flexibility with intercooler size

 

-well packaged do it all kit with quality parts = super expensive

-lots of piping and different parts to fail, will reliable if you do a good job, but a lot of people don’t. Charge piping is a big one. Think about it, your intercooler doesn’t move, but the turbo and the intake manifold move with the engine, so you need flexible charge pipe couplings. 15-20psi or higher inside a flexible tube will surely test your connections. You need oil and usually water to the turbo.

-In a V motor, you usually need two turbo’s because your exhaust is on either side of your motor. You can do a single turbo but it’s just a lot of exhaust piping. This is the fundamental reason when dealing with aftermarket forced induction, v8’s usually use superchargers and if you go over to the honda forums almost everyone is turbo. A supercharger is just slapped into the valley and your done on a V setup. Much easier install and less complicated.

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2 hours ago, truckguy82 said:

15-20psi or higher inside a flexible tube will surely test your connections. 

My 550hp Cat runs 55psi of boost through silicone charge pipe couplings with those T-bolt style clamps. So they are surprisingly strong. These ones have steel rings around the silicone couplings to help keep it from over-expanding, not sure if the ones in the car/truck/drag world are braced? I do blow the odd one here and there. Usually have a spare in the truck. Really easy to tell when you have blown one lol, black smoke and pulls like a old 3 legged dog. Turbos really are magical inventions. 

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38 minutes ago, L86 All Terrain said:

My 550hp Cat runs 55psi of boost through silicone charge pipe couplings with those T-bolt style clamps. So they are surprisingly strong. These ones have steel rings around the silicone couplings to help keep it from over-expanding, not sure if the ones in the car/truck/drag world are braced? I do blow the odd one here and there. Usually have a spare in the truck. Really easy to tell when you have blown one lol, black smoke and pulls like a old 3 legged dog. Turbos really are magical inventions. 

Most of the ones I had were just normal silicone couplings with hose clamps. I’m sure you can buy higher quality stuff. It’s often overlooked though.

 

I don’t know what they normally use in very high pressure situations, most boost I ever ran was about 16 psi.

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