Best Exhaust

[Cole74]

Hey y'all. Looking to give my 2017 Silverado 1500 5.3l a little bit more of a throaty sound. But not crazy loud. Just some more noise when i get into the throttle. Something that won't wake the kid up when I start my truck and something I can still take my truck hunting, those are the best examples I can think of. 

[jaxcam02]

I bought magnaflow 15287. With the flapper valve as a whistle and then when I clamp the valve open there's a drone on highway between 1500 and 1800 RPMs so for me it's a work-in-progress I would choose something else if I were you just my two cents

Outside of that it sounds great it's really deep tone and everything.

Edited April 8, 2019 by jaxcam02

[SuthrnZ71]

I've got the flowmaster super 40, it was pretty dang quiet even with the rear resonators removed, so I deleted the flapper valve and it has a pretty good rumble now.   Still wouldn't mind it being a bit louder so maybe this muffler would work for ya.

[CombsL83]

Corsa Touring

[3tspapat]

Sounds like you need a borla touring and put the flapper back on unless you get rid of V4. 

[newdude]

Corsa Touring.  Corsa Sport if you want more loud.  Both zero drone. 

[dieselfan1]

What's your budget?

I picked up a Borla S Type catback system for $900 off eBay. Not too loud but not as quiet as the touring setups. Sounds perfect to me and looks good too.

Add a Range AFM disabler to eliminate any drone whatsoever for $189 and your good to go

Edited April 8, 2019 by dieselfan1

[wforrest08]

I did a 50 series Flowmaster with the flapper/resonator delete (mine is tuned and v4 deleted so can’t comment on drone in v4 mode). The shop that did it put it on the rack and let me come listen to 4 different choices after telling them what I was wanting, a knock off 40 Flowmaster, the 50, a Gibson, and a Magnaflow.

 

I went with the 50 cause I didn’t want something to loud just wanted it to sound like a truck. At first I second guessed my decision an thought it was to quite at WOT and spirited driving but sounded right on cold starts and idling. After a couple years & 33k miles it seems to have “broken in” and now sounds right across the board. Can carry a conversation, doesn’t drown out the radio, ect.

 

If you haven’t already might want to watch some videos on YouTube and read though some other exhaust threads on this site. Some guys are content just doing a muffler delete and leaving the resonator or vise versa, these are cheap options and if your not happy it’s easy to do something eles. 

 

Some use a louder muffler with the stock resonator for a deeper tone. If your going to leave the resonator on something like the 50 series probably won’t be very noticeable since the resonator is basically a flow thru muffler anyway.

 

If your wanting to keep v4 your best bet is to find a muffler that is built for anti-drone or leave the factory flapper in place somewhere in your system if your not going with a complete cat back system that has one built in.

 

I personally couldn’t justify the cost of a cat back on my truck since the factory pipe flows well and won’t rot out, and all I was after was a little noise anyway. Something to keep in mind if they salt the road where you live as some of the cheaper cat backs are aluminized pipe that will rot unlike good stainless. 

 

The place that did mine does a lot of classics/hot rods and is a authorize Flowmaster dealer. I talked to the owner and he said he cut a 40 series knock off and a real one apart side by side to see the difference. Said as far as he is concerned they are basically the same and he hasn’t had any problems with the knock offs they have installed. Price difference from his shop is about 40 bucks a muffler. Something to think about if you decide you want a Flowmaster. They don’t build a 50 series knockoff or I would have considered it from what he said.

[Jacoby]

MBRP

[Cole74]

Thanks everyone. I'm looking at the Borla, Flowmaster and Corsa. Now deleteing the V4. Is that expensive or hard? And does it mess with the truck at all? I had an 06 before this so this whole V8 to V4 is new to me. I'd love to get rid of it

[b1gted]

Just for reference, cold start of my Borla ATAK cat-back.  This Borla ATAK is probably too loud for your needs,  so go with a Touring or S-type.   Should be plenty of videos on youtube to listen to.

 

 

Edited April 8, 2019 by b1gted

[wforrest08]

4 hours ago, Cole74 said:

Thanks everyone. I'm looking at the Borla, Flowmaster and Corsa. Now deleteing the V4. Is that expensive or hard? And does it mess with the truck at all? I had an 06 before this so this whole V8 to V4 is new to me. I'd love to get rid of it

Cheapest easiest way is with a Range device. It plugs into the obd2 port under the steering wheel. Plug it in and unplug it as often as you like. Only thing it does is it keeps the truck from shifting into v4 that’s it. The older versions would drain the battery if you left them plugged in for long periods but apparently that has been fixed on the latest version. Since yours is a 017 if you buy a used one you’ll want to make sure it’s the latest version or plan on sending it in to Range for a update. Check their website for the latest version number. Updates are free but you have to send it to them and they send it back you prepay shipping both ways. A new one is 200ish they have them on sale every now and then usually the popular times of year Black Friday, ect. If you leave it in all the time your monthly report from GM (or whatever it is ,I’ve yet to get any...) will show as unreadable or something if you care. This is the option most guys that want to retain the GM warranty go with just have to unplug it for 10 key cycles before you take it in for recalls, warranty repairs, or major services just unplug it for oil changes at stealership and stash it in the console. (This is what I originally had on my 015 before doing a tune and sold mine to a coworker for his 018 after I had it updated.)

 

Next option is a handheld tuner, then a custom tune from somewhere like Blackbear (what I did),HHP tune, or a shop that does in house tuning. This gets pricey and is a option if your doing more “mods” later and aren’t worried about warranty. The K2s have a hit counter on the ECM that counts the number of times the ECM is flashed. So if the dealer or GM wants they have access to this info and can use it against you for warranty claims. While not common it has happened. So the days of putting the stock tune back in it before going to the stealership are over. If you buy a used handheld can tuner make sure it’s unlocked if not you just bought a boat anchor. 

 

Last option is a DOD camshaft swap with tune. This is what is considered “bulletproofing” these motors. Completely eliminates the whole V4 system. Not cheap but in reality probably the best long term option.

 

Somebody will get on here and tell you to drive I’m M5 or M7 depending on which tranny you have. This will keep the truck out of V4 and is alright for cruising around town or back roads but silly IMO if your driving on the highway...

[Cole74]

4 hours ago, b1gted said:

Just for reference, cold start of my Borla ATAK cat-back.  This Borla ATAK is probably too loud for your needs,  so go with a Touring or S-type.   Should be plenty of videos on youtube to listen to.

 

 

Dang, I'll tell you what, that sounds good

[Cole74]

2 hours ago, wforrest08 said:

Cheapest easiest way is with a Range device. It plugs into the obd2 port under the steering wheel. Plug it in and unplug it as often as you like. Only thing it does is it keeps the truck from shifting into v4 that’s it. The older versions would drain the battery if you left them plugged in for long periods but apparently that has been fixed on the latest version. Since yours is a 017 if you buy a used one you’ll want to make sure it’s the latest version or plan on sending it in to Range for a update. Check their website for the latest version number. Updates are free but you have to send it to them and they send it back you prepay shipping both ways. A new one is 200ish they have them on sale every now and then usually the popular times of year Black Friday, ect. If you leave it in all the time your monthly report from GM (or whatever it is ,I’ve yet to get any...) will show as unreadable or something if you care. This is the option most guys that want to retain the GM warranty go with just have to unplug it for 10 key cycles before you take it in for recalls, warranty repairs, or major services just unplug it for oil changes at stealership and stash it in the console. (This is what I originally had on my 015 before doing a tune and sold mine to a coworker for his 018 after I had it updated.)

 

Next option is a handheld tuner, then a custom tune from somewhere like Blackbear (what I did),HHP tune, or a shop that does in house tuning. This gets pricey and is a option if your doing more “mods” later and aren’t worried about warranty. The K2s have a hit counter on the ECM that counts the number of times the ECM is flashed. So if the dealer or GM wants they have access to this info and can use it against you for warranty claims. While not common it has happened. So the days of putting the stock tune back in it before going to the stealership are over. If you buy a used handheld can tuner make sure it’s unlocked if not you just bought a boat anchor. 

 

Last option is a DOD camshaft swap with tune. This is what is considered “bulletproofing” these motors. Completely eliminates the whole V4 system. Not cheap but in reality probably the best long term option.

 

Somebody will get on here and tell you to drive I’m M5 or M7 depending on which tranny you have. This will keep the truck out of V4 and is alright for cruising around town or back roads but silly IMO if your driving on the highway...

Thanks for the info. That's a huge help, I really appreciate it. Looks I'm going to get a range device and then down the road get a handhelp. I'm gonna do exhaust and replace the CAI tube and filter. So that should get me by until i do a handheld

[mitchely03]

mine