2.7 Turbo 4 Fan Club

fondupot · February 5

16 hours ago, customboss said:

Great info. What does it consume in what mileage ? When you changed out spark plugs for oil consumption drop at all?
Yes you could run the Delo 600 ADF 10w30 and yes just observe the oil pressure comes off the 60-70 range on cold start to 30 or less. Our oil pumps handle it well. In SC unless you are in mountains that oil pressure bump up may not even be noticeable.

It would typically consume around 1 to 1.5 quarts over a 5,000 mile oil change interval. I was running the OLM to 20% but when I started noticing the consumption I switched to changing oil at 30%. Typically it’s around 5,000 miles. Around 2,000 miles in I start seeing the consumption on the dip stick. And I check it every 500 miles until the next oil change. Adding a .25 quart here and there to top it off.

3rd quarter of 2023 I was doing 2500 miles a week. So far January is a slower month I’ve only done 1800 miles since Jan 1. So I haven’t noticed the oil consumption yet. And it’s only been about 4,000 miles since changing the spark plugs.

I’ll have to see where I can get the Delo 10W30. I’d be interested in trying it. I also want to swap my plastic oil pan for the metal one they are putting on the newer 2.7’s. I wonder if it’s a direct swap?

I live near Charlotte, NC in SC so we don’t get that cold the early morning starts probably won’t be too bad. Especially this time of year, it’s starting to warm up.

customboss · February 5

1 hour ago, fondupot said:

It would typically consume around 1 to 1.5 quarts over a 5,000 mile oil change interval. I was running the OLM to 20% but when I started noticing the consumption I switched to changing oil at 30%. Typically it’s around 5,000 miles. Around 2,000 miles in I start seeing the consumption on the dip stick. And I check it every 500 miles until the next oil change. Adding a .25 quart here and there to top it off.

3rd quarter of 2023 I was doing 2500 miles a week. So far January is a slower month I’ve only done 1800 miles since Jan 1. So I haven’t noticed the oil consumption yet. And it’s only been about 4,000 miles since changing the spark plugs.

I’ll have to see where I can get the Delo 10W30. I’d be interested in trying it. I also want to swap my plastic oil pan for the metal one they are putting on the newer 2.7’s. I wonder if it’s a direct swap?

I live near Charlotte, NC in SC so we don’t get that cold the early morning starts probably won’t be too bad. Especially this time of year, it’s starting to warm up.

https://buy.chevronlubricants.com/en/Product-Category/Motor-Oil/600-ADF-Heavy-Duty-Engine-Oil-SAE-10W-30/p/257010388

if chevron will ship to SC. I order it from Walmart.com since Colorado isn’t serviced by Chevron.

Oreillys carries it and if not you can order it.

I’m a little unclear about whether your usage slowed a bit with fresh plugs but your usage is somewhat above mine at half the mileage. What I want to see is the Delo 600 use over time slow additive deposits since it contains 60% less deposit forming additives.
The additives Delo 600 does contain have improved my mpg. I have low wear and improved ring seal for a reasonable shipped price.
The sliding wear of our essentially 2 cylinder engines at cruise is gone.
I’m crippled so won’t be changing out the high impact plastic oil pan. I’m fine with it and I really off road on rock snow,ice, and it’s never been damaged although the body has!

Note check the oil at the same ambient temp as best you can because this engine hides oil in the oil cooler.

If you decide not to use the Delo 600 Amsoil OE 5w30 did very well.

QS full synthetic 5W30 did well too but both have traditional additives. Which may impact this engine over time and make needless deposits.

This engine bottom end was designed as a diesel and another reason I think the Delo 600 is performing so well for the rings and pistons.

I’m not selling anything so whatever you decide won’t hurt my feelings!

fondupot · February 6

Decided to make a quick video today about my 2.7L

customboss · February 13

Measured 24 ounces consumed in 4400 miles using Chevron Delo 600 ADF 10w30. L3B in a 2022 LTD. Consumption may have stalled with this 10w30 oil. When its cold here I can see 90 psi on cold start at ambient temps near 0 but it flows well with our oil pump. I allow to idle until is below 30 psi. Which happens in just a few minutes. MPG has not been hampered with the 10w30.

fondupot · February 16

Been trying to order a new wastegate actuator for my truck. It honks a lot now. I've tried from GM Parts Direct and Tasca Parts and both have cancelled my order withing a few hours saying the part is on global back order and no idea when it might be available.

The procedure for replacing the wastegate actuator doesn't appear to be that difficult, was gonna knock it out on my own and make a video showing how.

Just gotta find a place that has the part...

customboss · February 16

1 hour ago, fondupot said:

Been trying to order a new wastegate actuator for my truck. It honks a lot now. I've tried from GM Parts Direct and Tasca Parts and both have cancelled my order withing a few hours saying the part is on global back order and no idea when it might be available.

The procedure for replacing the wastegate actuator doesn't appear to be that difficult, was gonna knock it out on my own and make a video showing how.

Just gotta find a place that has the part...

Before you replace ( when you can find a part ) You might want to pull it and open up the connection from intercooler and view that area for deposits. Could be pressure relief valve is restricted by carbon or other deposits.
This may be more of the problem than a bad actuator motor especially since you have no MIL code set just the ducks in ur truck.

Edited February 16 by customboss

fondupot · February 17

4 hours ago, customboss said:

Before you replace ( when you can find a part ) You might want to pull it and open up the connection from intercooler and view that area for deposits. Could be pressure relief valve is restricted by carbon or other deposits.
This may be more of the problem than a bad actuator motor especially since you have no MIL code set just the ducks in ur truck.

Interesting good thought.

fondupot · February 17

So today I decided to take apart the air intake tubes and give the throttle body a clean. Lately it seems to be vibrating more intense at idle than I previously can remember.

It’s quite a task to remove the main intake tube. Disconnect from the air box. Then remove two 10mm nuts under the engine cover. Then using a long extension loosen the clamp on the turbo. There’s also a few tubes connected to the intake tube. One on the drive side top part of the engine and another down by the turbo. The one by the turbo has a locking connector with a sensor of some sort on a very short wire. It’s quite a PITA to get that one off. There’s a few factory zip ties holding some of the larger wiring harnesses in place in the intake tube. I snipped those off.

Once the main intake tube is removed, I removed the tube that goes from the intercooler to the throttle body. Everything had a coating of oil on it. I also cleaned the MAF sensor with CRC MAF cleaner. I removed the throttle body completely, it has 3- 8mm bolts and a locking connector. I broke the locking tab…

I didn’t remove the tube from the turbo to the intercooler. It didn’t appear straightforward and I didn’t want to mess with it.

while Inwas in there I observed how to remove the wastegate actuator. Once the above steps are complete the wastage actuator assembly is wide open and easy to get to. Looks like 3 bolts/nuts and a connector. And there’s a little locking clip on the rod to the turbo. Shouldn’t be that bad a replacement when the time comes.

I cleaned every orifice I could with intake/throttle body cleaner and wiped it all down. Going back together is much easier.

I removed the factory Christmas tree clips for the factory zip ties and just used regular zip ties in the holes to secure harnesses when buttoning everything up. Much easier than fighting with the brittle factory ones.

Topped off the oil, it was about 1/2 a quart low. Currently around 3600 miles on the oil interval. Trucks mileage is around 98,500.

Let it run and idle for a bit and it seemed to be ok. I guess I put it back together correctly. Seemed to idle smoother, but time will tell.

About 2 hours start to finish. Get a short step ladder and a towel or blanket to lay on when your elbow deep in the engine bay.

im gonna go have a beer.

customboss · February 17

1 hour ago, fondupot said:

So today I decided to take apart the air intake tubes and give the throttle body a clean. Lately it seems to be vibrating more intense at idle than I previously can remember.

It’s quite a task to remove the main intake tube. Disconnect from the air box. Then remove two 10mm nuts under the engine cover. Then using a long extension loosen the clamp on the turbo. There’s also a few tubes connected to the intake tube. One on the drive side top part of the engine and another down by the turbo. The one by the turbo has a locking connector with a sensor of some sort on a very short wire. It’s quite a PITA to get that one off. There’s a few factory zip ties holding some of the larger wiring harnesses in place in the intake tube. I snipped those off.

Once the main intake tube is removed, I removed the tube that goes from the intercooler to the throttle body. Everything had a coating of oil on it. I also cleaned the MAF sensor with CRC MAF cleaner. I removed the throttle body completely, it has 3- 8mm bolts and a locking connector. I broke the locking tab…

I didn’t remove the tube from the turbo to the intercooler. It didn’t appear straightforward and I didn’t want to mess with it.

while Inwas in there I observed how to remove the wastegate actuator. Once the above steps are complete the wastage actuator assembly is wide open and easy to get to. Looks like 3 bolts/nuts and a connector. And there’s a little locking clip on the rod to the turbo. Shouldn’t be that bad a replacement when the time comes.

I cleaned every orifice I could with intake/throttle body cleaner and wiped it all down. Going back together is much easier.

I removed the factory Christmas tree clips for the factory zip ties and just used regular zip ties in the holes to secure harnesses when buttoning everything up. Much easier than fighting with the brittle factory ones.

Topped off the oil, it was about 1/2 a quart low. Currently around 3600 miles on the oil interval. Trucks mileage is around 98,500.

Let it run and idle for a bit and it seemed to be ok. I guess I put it back together correctly. Seemed to idle smoother, but time will tell.

About 2 hours start to finish. Get a short step ladder and a towel or blanket to lay on when your elbow deep in the engine bay.

im gonna go have a beer.

Thanks for your efforts.

silveradosid · February 18

did the same to my truck yesterday, also broke the lock clip on the throttle body. i also took the throttle body off . i slipped on the ladder and broke one of the brackets for the air box, so jb weld and giving it over night to harden. i started this just to get at the electrical harness because i am getting a lot of weird codes popping up

fondupot · February 18

24 minutes ago, silveradosid said:

did the same to my truck yesterday, also broke the lock clip on the throttle body. i also took the throttle body off . i slipped on the ladder and broke one of the brackets for the air box, so jb weld and giving it over night to harden. i started this just to get at the electrical harness because i am getting a lot of weird codes popping up

damn! Yea the way those wire harness are routed behind the air intake tube make this process an extra PITA. Hope you get your airbox put back together OK.

Frank Henry · March 2

Thanks to this thread you guys gave me the info I needed to make this decision...

My new 2024 Silverado Custom Rally with 5YR / 160KM warranty.

Comes with Turbomax badge and with the new Gen 2 8spd transmission. (MFC)

Edited March 2 by Frank Henry

customboss · March 2

1 hour ago, Frank Henry said:

Thanks to this thread you guys gave me the info I needed to make this decision...

My new 2024 Silverado Custom Rally with 5YR / 160KM warranty.

Comes with Turbomax badge and with the new Gen 2 8spd transmission. (MFC)