2.7 Turbo 4 Fan Club

customboss · Saturday at 10:40 PM

7 minutes ago, fondupot said:

Interesting. Is on the back of the engine? I found the procedure on my ALLDATA account and boy it looks like a doozy.

Whats the part number for that? For whatever reason I can't find it on my ALLDATA account. Is it this?https://www.gmpartsdirect.com/oem-parts/gm-positive-crankcase-ventilation-oil-separator-12722131?c=Zz1lbWlzc2lvbi1zeXN0ZW0mcz1lbWlzc2lvbi1jb21wb25lbnRzJmw9MSZuPVNlYXJjaCBSZXN1bHRzJmE9Y2hldnJvbGV0Jm89c2lsdmVyYWRvLTE1MDAtbHRkJnk9MjAyMiZ0PWN1c3RvbSZlPTItN2wtbDQtZ2Fz

Truck has an appointment Monday to go to my shop for a further diagnosis. I tried CataClean and reset the code. It stayed off for about 300 miles, then came back on this morning.

Here's a screen shot from my ALLDATA procedure.

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Wonder why I’m not having issues with that? Better lubricants? Better fuels?

silveradosid · Monday at 12:58 PM

luck of the draw, when i finally got the separator off it had a lot of brown crusty stuff in it. there is a diaphragm and 3 check valves in it. the part number is 12722131. the diaphragm on the back off the valve is what failed on mine

customboss · Monday at 02:00 PM

59 minutes ago, silveradosid said:

luck of the draw, when i finally got the separator off it had a lot of brown crusty stuff in it. there is a diaphragm and 3 check valves in it. the part number is 12722131. the diaphragm on the back off the valve is what failed on mine

Sid thanks so much. Question for you? Can you take your oil fill cap off and invert it and take a picture of it for us to see, please don't touch that cup like area under the cap.

Thanks for sharing this!

KARNUT · Monday at 02:00 PM

54 minutes ago, silveradosid said:

luck of the draw, when i finally got the separator off it had a lot of brown crusty stuff in it. there is a diaphragm and 3 check valves in it. the part number is 12722131. the diaphragm on the back off the valve is what failed on mine

I believe that without a doubt. I know several people who have higher mileage GMs 5.3s and 6.2s. One is a 2013 5.3 supposedly one of the bad years. Using different brands of synthetic oil, one Amsoil. He goes extended with a 5.3. No problems on any of those. Usually it seems it’s a part failure that fails. Usually before 100K miles, sometimes very low mileage. The 2013 at 140K miles is pulling a trailer with 15 hours of highway driving. Fingers crossed.

customboss · Monday at 04:08 PM

1 hour ago, KARNUT said:

I believe that without a doubt. I know several people who have higher mileage GMs 5.3s and 6.2s. One is a 2013 5.3 supposedly one of the bad years. Using different brands of synthetic oil, one Amsoil. He goes extended with a 5.3. No problems on any of those. Usually it seems it’s a part failure that fails. Usually before 100K miles, sometimes very low mileage. The 2013 at 140K miles is pulling a trailer with 15 hours of highway driving. Fingers crossed.

Brother did any of those above have part failures running amsoil, redline, RLI, any other synthetic that's not highly refined petroleum like GM oil fail? Just trying to drill down on this.

fondupot · Monday at 04:13 PM

3 hours ago, silveradosid said:

luck of the draw, when i finally got the separator off it had a lot of brown crusty stuff in it. there is a diaphragm and 3 check valves in it. the part number is 12722131. the diaphragm on the back off the valve is what failed on mine

Thanks. That's the same part number I came up with, but damn there's a lot of work to get that off.

On another note, my mechanic is saying he doesn't want to touch the catalytic converter repair. Says he doesn't have any technical data to replace it by....which I find hard to believe since these engines have been around since 2019.

I am not sure where to go from here. I may try a cat replacement myself. And I guess if I'm feeling confident, I might try the oil separator too.

The truck drives find, mileage doesn't seem to be any different that before. Just that CEL is illuminated, so i cant remote start (the biggest annoyance haha).

customboss · Monday at 04:18 PM

4 minutes ago, fondupot said:

Thanks. That's the same part number I came up with, but damn there's a lot of work to get that off.

On another note, my mechanic is saying he doesn't want to touch the catalytic converter repair. Says he doesn't have any technical data to replace it by....which I find hard to believe since these engines have been around since 2019.

I am not sure where to go from here. I may try a cat replacement myself. And I guess if I'm feeling confident, I might try the oil separator too.

The truck drives find, mileage doesn't seem to be any different that before. Just that CEL is illuminated, so i cant remote start (the biggest annoyance haha).

Are you SURE CAT is bad?? Can you get E85 is SC??

fondupot · Monday at 04:22 PM

2 minutes ago, customboss said:

Are you SURE CAT is bad?? Can you get E85 is SC??

Idk, I don't really look for E85 since its not supposed to be used in the L3B. Are you thinking that running a tank of E85 might clear out the cat?

My mechanic said he thinks the cat is burned up, that's why its throwing the code, because the sensor data is clean, meaning hes reading the sensors fine. But something is out of balance and its throwing that code.

KARNUT · Monday at 04:27 PM

10 minutes ago, customboss said:

Brother did any of those above have part failures running amsoil, redline, RLI, any other synthetic that's not highly refined petroleum like GM oil fail? Just trying to drill down on this.

The only engine failure I’ve experienced had been from reading. Even back when I did 25K oil changes with Amsoil. There were many on that schedule. The few vehicles we kept over 200K miles were diesels and some Toyotas in the 80s with the 22Rs. You couldn’t kill those. My mother refuses to key rid of her 2000 7.3 with 250K miles. Or my late father’s 98 dodge 5.9. My brother has a few gas and diesel fords in his yard as backup trucks. Engine failure has been very few usually from stupidity. Nothing to do with oil.

customboss · Monday at 04:29 PM

4 minutes ago, fondupot said:

Idk, I don't really look for E85 since its not supposed to be used in the L3B. Are you thinking that running a tank of E85 might clear out the cat?

My mechanic said he thinks the cat is burned up, that's why its throwing the code, because the sensor data is clean, meaning hes reading the sensors fine. But something is out of balance and its throwing that code.

Absolutely run a few tanks and see if it cleans it out. The ECM is set up for E85 because you can see it on the scanner so it will overfuel enough to clean and may solve the issue. The fuel density sensors will read the ethanol above 49.9% ethanol and throw that code but it will reset after you go back to regular.

customboss · Monday at 04:32 PM

3 minutes ago, KARNUT said:

The only engine failure I’ve experienced had been from reading. Even back when I did 25K oil changes with Amsoil. There were many on that schedule. The few vehicles we kept over 200K miles were diesels and some Toyotas in the 80s with the 22Rs. You couldn’t kill those. My mother refuses to key rid of her 2000 7.3 with 250K miles. Or my late father’s 98 dodge 5.9. My brother has a few gas and diesel fords in his yard as backup trucks. Engine failure has been very few usually from stupidity. Nothing to do with oil.

Not true with the DI engines and with VVT and cylinder deactivation with is hydro electronic because deposits from fuel will stick them. Add in crapoil and its worse.

Gotcha on the reading. Appreciate the input.

silveradosid · Tuesday at 10:48 AM

i know the SI shows its a lot of work to change the oil separator but you don't have to take the intake off. left front wheel and liner does have to come off to let you at some line clamps and there is one on the right side, the 2 bolts for the coolant line and just push it back against the firewall. you will be able to get it out. because the coolant line is right on top of the engine you don't have to drain much coolant out