Rough Country 3.5 inch knuckle lift or 3.5 inch Superlift

[TXGREEK]

Ok... so stock wheels are +25 right? So if you go with a 0 offset your about an inch further out. A -25 and your about 2 inches... 
 
None of that stock track width and turning radius BS matter once you change wheels. Most of them stick out further therefore your track width and turning radius change.
 
If you keep stock wheels with the bracket lift you still have to run spacers or they hit the control arms right?
What about the knuckle lift, do they still hit the control arms?

A CST Bracket lift allows you to keep your stock wheels and tires up to 35”. I’ve got the CST Bracket Lift with +1 wheel offset and because of 295’s the tires poke out more. If you do a knuckle lift you’ll be pushing out your wheels minimum of 1.5”, add wider tires will look even wider, switch out wheels for even wider wheels then you’ll have even more sticking out which all puts stress on your suspension. My CST Lift gives completely stock turning radius and stock track width, with +1 offset wheels lined up at fender then added 295’s and pokes out about 1.50”.

Knuckle lifts will give you no choice immediately pushing out your wheels 1.5”, your wheels and tires stick out a lot further and adding negative offset wheel will be even more.

Rear



Front



Full rear






Sent from above

[BCMoto]

On ‎3‎/‎26‎/‎2019 at 10:42 AM, Jacoby said:

That's why you rock a front mount hitch lol.  Not sure what size all your bikes are.  I carry a 250 & 125 on the front and rear carriers and my sons crf50 and outlaw50 in the bed

 

I have never liked the hitch carrires as ive seen bikes fall off. I carry honda grom and Kawasaki z125 honda ruckus and Harleys in my truck

[TimHortonsJunky]

On 2019-03-27 at 9:50 AM, TXGREEK said:

A CST Bracket lift allows you to keep your stock wheels and tires up to 35”. I’ve got the CST Bracket Lift with +1 wheel offset and because of 295’s the tires poke out more. If you do a knuckle lift you’ll be pushing out your wheels minimum of 1.5”, add wider tires will look even wider, switch out wheels for even wider wheels then you’ll have even more sticking out which all puts stress on your suspension. My CST Lift gives completely stock turning radius and stock track width, with +1 offset wheels lined up at fender then added 295’s and pokes out about 1.50”.

Knuckle lifts will give you no choice immediately pushing out your wheels 1.5”, your wheels and tires stick out a lot further and adding negative offset wheel will be even more.

Rear



Front



Full rear






Sent from above

the 3.5 inch knuckle kit doesn't change your track-width only when you go higher. 

[pewterliftedz]

On 3/25/2019 at 2:52 PM, TXGREEK said:

 

You’ll definitely get better angles out of theRC 5” knuckle lift.

The Superlift will F’Up your CV’s and has raw steel parts that aren’t even powder coated.

You’ll also get MUCH more smiles per mile with the 5” and in three years you may just want to change wheels and tires for a new look rather than buying another one and better someone knowing they’re buying a better lift than just cheaper one for looks with added issues. Save up, get the 5” you’ll be soooooo much happier you did.


Sent from above

 

What raw steel parts does the superlift kit have?  All of my parts are coated, and my CV angles look great 

Edited April 10, 2019 by pewterliftedz

[dougwtx]

6 hours ago, pewterliftedz said:

What raw steel parts does the superlift kit have?  All of my parts are coated, and my CV angles look great 

 

My parts were also coated/painted.  The only parts raw were the rear blocks and the diff drop spacers which were aluminum I believe.  UCA's, u-bolts, strut spacers and whatever else were all black.

[TXGREEK]

 
My parts were also coated/painted.  The only parts raw were the rear blocks and the diff drop spacers which were aluminum I believe.  UCA's, u-bolts, strut spacers and whatever else were all black.

That’s great, but the kit review showed a couple main components not being powder coated. It also showed all to be steel with nothing being aluminum. I’d keep an eye out on any major components being aluminum especially on a low cost kit, may break up on you and you can always buy steel diff drops. Can you show pics of your whole front suspension including uca’s too?


Sent from above

[dougwtx]

I will try to get some pics later.  Not saying this is the 'best' 3.5" leveling kit but it seemed reasonably priced, didn't have as many negative reviews as the Rough Country, allows use of factory wheels without needing spacers,  comes with skid plate and rear shocks, and has lifetime warranty.  Time will tell how well the kit will hold up.  Not too worried about billet aluminum diff spacers vs steel.

 

 

Edited April 10, 2019 by dougwtx
pics added

[TimHortonsJunky]

On 2019-04-10 at 11:04 AM, dougwtx said:

I will try to get some pics later.  Not saying this is the 'best' 3.5" leveling kit but it seemed reasonably priced, didn't have as many negative reviews as the Rough Country, allows use of factory wheels without needing spacers,  comes with skid plate and rear shocks, and has lifetime warranty.  Time will tell how well the kit will hold up.  Not too worried about billet aluminum diff spacers vs steel.

 

 

Those angles don't look bad at all, the tie rod end might have a little strain but nothing serious. Does any one have pictures of their truck beside a stock one or a levelled one. I have a 2 inch front level now and I am deciding whether its worth it to jump to the 3.5. I can't seem to find any pictures of one of these close to a stock one to see if its worth the 500 plus install. im not sure how much higher it will look.