2019 Silverado Speaker Level Audio Tap

[grimmysnr]

I was able to get a photo of where I tapped into a switched source. Follow the blue wire.

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[NeighborN8]

Excellent post full of great info! Thank you guys for breaking ground on the 2019's and saving me broken connector clips and those little mini band-aids...

[AndyPacelli]

Does anyone know if the wire configuration and colors are the same on a 2019 GMC sierra? Also, are the Blue and Brown/Blue  wires only one channel or is it mono?

[Bonilale]

Anyone have wire diagram 

[SummitBoss]

On 11/1/2019 at 9:17 PM, grimmysnr said:

Just to update all of you on my subwoofer saga. I had my setup working for a little while but no matter what I did I could not get the bass to volume ratio match down. It was either too much or too little. Too tingy or high pitched with the filter level or gain was too low and half volume is good but a notch over half the sub sounded like crap. Recently I started having an issue that I can only explain as intermittent open short protection where my sub would cut out at lower volumes. It would sometimes cut out around half volume. I thought I had some loose connections so I opened everythjng up and ohmed wires and checked voltage and found no issues. I tried playing with the gain, changing the stereo to mono wire config, upped the bass in the radio, the filter, and damn near anything else. I just could not get my sub to respond correctly.

 

Well I did some more research and many threads suggested line out converters but I didn't feel like spending $60+ on such a simple setup. I came across the Kicker KISLOC 2-channel speaker level to rca line out converters.

 

Kicker KISLOC 2-Channel K-Series Speaker Cable to RCA Adapter with Line Out Converter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I4EF1BC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_OInVDbV8P7B85

 

It runs in line with your speaker level input and converts it to rca. It has changed everything. This little thing works like a champ. I only hooked up one channel on it and ran the associated rca for that channel since I have a 10 inch dual 4-ohm sub setup. The problem I was having, according to research, was that the truck or my amp was detecting a open circuit and going into protect mode. It has something to do with the resistance on the speaker wire. This little adapter puts that resistance on the truck side and output the right frequency and voltage on the amp side. If you are having trouble with sound quality, cut outs, and don't want to spend time and money on a normal line out setup then get this thing. It just works.

 

Also one of these days I will stop being lazy and take a picture of where I tapped in my remote switch for my amp in the passenger compartment fuse box. Let me know if you have questions.

 

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I’m using this same loc but with a 2 ohm amp and sub. It works great but goes the amp goes into protect at any volume higher than half way. Any advice?

[grimmysnr]

2 hours ago, SummitBoss said:

I’m using this same loc but with a 2 ohm amp and sub. It works great but goes the amp goes into protect at any volume higher than half way. Any advice?

Even after using this adapter I was still having problems with the sub as it seemed like either the Amp was going into protection, I was losing input, the phase kept flipping, or I had a lose ground. It was really weird and happened often at lower volumes but would still rarely happen at mid or higher.  Then it seemed like it would do it based on if I was making a left or right turn so I thought for sure that I had a lose connection somewhere. Checked everything multiple times and couldn't find anything wrong. So just last week I actually changed inputs from the speaker wires that was recommended in the kicker install to the right rear speakers inputs. I believe the kicker install has you hook up to the right forward dash speaker. Since changing the input to my right rear, everything has changed. No cut out, bass is deep and filling, and it doesnt take much volume to get you where you want to be. I did have one instance where I turned it up and I think my amp went into overload protection because the sub dropped. But when this happened I still had the gains turned up from the other input so I am certain I actually did overload the amp. So while I can't be 100% on your discrepancy, I can confirm that the right rear speaker input works and that while the volume from the stock speaker seems low, the output voltage is still there. The volume out of the rears seem like because the speakers themselves just suck. I bet if you put some better stuff in the doors it wouldn't sound so bad.  As a speaker input level to your amp, that input will work just fine. And the wires are under the passenger door sill so they are a bit easier to get to. 

[hertge]

I have the 8 inch non bose and i have replaced my front and rear speakers with kicker and i was wanting to add the kicker hideaway 10 inch.  I was wanting to run power wire to battery, use auto turn on and tap into rear speakers.  What color wires did you use and did you use 2 channel or 1 channel or tie both channels to the right rear.  I know just enough to get me in trouble so i need some help? Not really wanting to spend $600 on factory sub.

[MikeL1794]

Hello,

 

So I ran into this forum while searching how to install an amp on my 2020 chevy Silverado. I have done installations on other cars before but I have discovered that this truck is a little different from the others. I see that the audio module is in the passenger side and I can tap into the front speaker wires for easier access. I guess my question is.. would I need an RCA adaptor to tap into those wires? which wires are you guys tapping into these speaker wires? what did you guys do with the remote wire that is usually a blue small one? I am used to running the RCA cables and remote wire to the back of the center console and to amp.

 

[keefsmif]

All, i signed up JUST to post this, as this thread helped my with my powered sub (Rockford P300-10) install. Now that all the guesswork of what colour wire goes to what speaker is done, i ordered replacement door speakers and crutchfield sent me this:

Hope that helps anyone else. Thanks for all your efforts.

[BassPhil]

So, after messing around with my truck for several months. I figured out some of the wiring. Ill attach a few pics. The pic shows where the harness enters the module for the radio (on the right, blue and white plugs). Then on the left you can see I found the wiring (twisted pairs). You will have to peel back the black cloth surrounding it. I am also attaching a wiring print out. Enjoy

[Seth Grey]

Just verified 2020 Silverado 1500 front and rear speaker wiring is located in Tan connector wire bundle listed previously in this thread. Remove the tan connector, peel back tape and you'll find front right and left speaker wire pairs easily accessible. Used t-taps and RCA converter.

 

Color code is also the same.

 

Fuse for remote turn on also works for those wondering if new body silverado changed anything wiring wise. 

[emartinez09]

On 6/10/2019 at 9:35 AM, grimmysnr said:

Yep!  Those are the ones.  I couldn't get the connector out without doing exactly what you seem to have done to your hands.  So I gave up and left the connector installed and then tapped in place.  Solid blue is positive and the Brown/Blue stripe is negative.

Anything particular you did to get the plug out?... I have been fighting to get it out for hours now... I really don't want to break anything so I was curious if there is any tricks? Thanks.

[T.J Robinson]

Hope this helps anyone who needs it. I have a 2019 silverado 1500 lt. Just ripped it apart and upgraded that shitty sound system. Radio is now a pioneer 2600 nex and the interior speakers are deaf bonce Arnold's also have a 4 channel behind the seats. After 10 hours of work it's finally done. This install is a ******! No space behind the radio you have to brake the plastic housing if you want to fit anything in. Also there are vents directly behind the housing so be careful not to mess those up. You will need a bypass part ( AXDIS-GMLN31) got this part online from audio jam in DE ask for Mike ran 150. This install cannot be done without the part as none of your dash will work. Heads up part goes under the passenger side of the dash and you will have to extend the wires up to the radio as they are not long enough. Speaker portion is simple didn't run into any issues. Now with the new body update the back seat is different. Their isnt much space as the new foam cusion is broken up in sections made it hard to mount amp. So make sure your amps are smaller and will fit in the groves or you will be shaving and sanding down foam like I did. 

[Gregg Messenger VE6WGM]

On 10/7/2020 at 8:16 AM, keefsmif said:

All, i signed up JUST to post this, as this thread helped my with my powered sub (Rockford P300-10) install. Now that all the guesswork of what colour wire goes to what speaker is done, i ordered replacement door speakers and crutchfield sent me this:

Hope that helps anyone else. Thanks for all your efforts.

Thank you!

[Jackie Johnson]

On 3/19/2019 at 11:26 PM, grimmysnr said:

Eric,

Thank you for your response.  I kept digging around yesterday and I found the audio control module and the two connectors called out in the attached PDF instructions.  There is almost zero room to work since that junction box in the picture above is in the way and the connectors were impossible to disconnect.  They have some weird tab that you have to pull down and then it still would not pull out of the module.  I found the wires after peeling back this cloth wrapping with mounds of glue on it.  I will take a picture of where the module and connectors are.  The wiring colors you mentioned in your conversation are still accurate.  In fact, in the passenger door sill, there is a wire loom going to the back of the truck that you can gain access to easily without having to remove the B-PIllar trim.  The blue/black and white wire is sitting in there and is much easier to peel back the wire wrap.  What I have noticed, and found in other forums, is that any wires that are twisted together are typically speaker wires.  This seems to be the case.  So I have tapped both channels off the one input for the front speaker, but knowing what I know now I think I will move the connections to the wires that go to the back speakers.  Inside that same wire as the right rear speaker looks like another twisted pair that goes to the left rear speaker.  I will likely tap both channels from there to make sure the amp gets a full signal from two separate sources. 

 

I will snap some photos tomorrow since I was able to get it hooked up today.  Overall it sounds better, but I think I need to tune it a bit more.  I also think that maybe, just maybe, the one 10" might not be enough.  Either that or the stock radio is just not powerful/dynamic enough to pump out the right audio.  It seems like I have to really crank the volume before I start to hear the sub.  The volume is halfway, but seems quite loud for how far turned up it is vs when the subwoofer really kicks in.  I might have to play with it a bit more.

 

In either case, I did find the wires and it was a pain to get to.  I don't think tapping off the back of the unit in the dash will work because the audio module is mounted on the passenger side wall, behind the glove box just below the passenger fuse compartment.  I will get some more photos soon.  Thank you again for confirming the wire colors.  It appears that the colors have remained the same.

 

 

2019 Kicker Subwoofer Install.pdf

How did you hook up to the f27?