factory subwoofer

GymC · March 19, 2020

I had a similar problem when I installed mine. I called Kicker, their solution was to unplug one of the wires at the speaker. Needless to say i won't be buying another Kicker sub.

truck_newbie · March 19, 2020

10 hours ago, OnTheReel said:

Put mine in yesterday, also bought from shopchevyparts.

I’d like to shake the hand of the guy who said they installed it in an hour. I was in it for about 2 hours and sweating like a pig. Could have shaved 5 minutes off if I had a deep well 10mm socket to get the jack out and back in. You know how 10mm sockets disappear. Had to use a wrench.

Wiring was fine. I actually had the yellow and yellow/ black wires the book called for so that was good. My brain might call for me pulling that kick panel off again to replace the tee taps with soldered connections but for now it’s fine.

Sound wise, it’s okay. I got the little knob thingy and have played around with the setup for a few nights now.

First, I can’t see how anyone would use it without the knob because when I tried it with the knob unplugged, the thing was just as obnoxious as could be. What’s worse, the noise cancellation was pumping engine sounds through the sub at full gain! Sounded outrageous and I thought my exhaust sprang a leak.

With the knob there’s none of that, but it doesn’t seem to really hit very hard at anything under half volume. The knob at max is nowhere near full gain without the knob, so it seems. Obviously I don’t want 100% but a little more would be nice...

It came with #1 dip switch up, 2&3 down, 4,5,6 up. I put all 6 up to get a little more sound out of it, but as of now I can say I’m not really blown away with this thing. It’s better than nothing at giving the door speakers a little break, but it’s not exactly what I hoped for.

Now debating if I should try some bass blockers in the doors so I can turn the bass up on the head unit’s EQ. Right now running the EQ flat. Not sure how to find the sweet spot on this deal.

Also took me more than an hour to install. I compare the 1hr install time to the cooking and prep times listed on recipes. It will take a pro or someone who has done it before to meet those targets.

Overall, i really like it considering the price. Stepping up to much more capable subs will cost a lot lot more unless you build a custom system yourself. I honestly don't want that much bass in my system, just wanted something with a little more kick to round it up. I saw a picture of the Bose subwoofer they have hidden in the center console and that thing is a joke.

OnTheReel · March 19, 2020

6 hours ago, truck_newbie said:

Also took me more than an hour to install. I compare the 1hr install time to the cooking and prep times listed on recipes. It will take a pro or someone who has done it before to meet those targets.

Overall, i really like it considering the price. Stepping up to much more capable subs will cost a lot lot more unless you build a custom system yourself. I honestly don't want that much bass in my system, just wanted something with a little more kick to round it up. I saw a picture of the Bose subwoofer they have hidden in the center console and that thing is a joke.

Yeah, the Bose sub must be all of 4”. I guess short of redoing the whole system this was probably the best option.

Anyway, think I finally got this thing cracked.

Anyone who has tried it without the knob knows that the knob is both a bass killer, but it also makes the thing usable. So I’ve hacked it.

The knob is is just a 20k potentiometer with a 500 ohm resistor that forms the base resistance of the circuit.

The pot increases resistance from there, up to a maximum of roughly 20.5k ohms (20k pot plus the .5k resistor). So again, at the low bass setting, the amp reads a resistance of 500 ohms from the aux cable, and at max bass 20.5k.

Keeping this in mind, I had an idea. Using some little 10k resistors I had lying around in the parts bin, I formed a test. I removed the stock 500 ohm base resistor and replaced it with a 10k resistor. This effectively makes the baseline (knob all the way down) resistance 10k. That 10k measure on a stock knob is about midway. But the big thing was that the max was now up to 30k instead of 20.

And in the new max position, sure enough, the amp gain increased beyond what the original max would have been with the unaltered knob.

Taking it a step further, I soldered TWO 10k resistors in series and brought the baseline to 20k. Keep in mind that used to be roughly the max the amp would see from the knob, and now it is the minimum. So with the knob all the way down, it behaves as it did with the knob all the way up previously. And beyond that, the ceiling is now 40k. With this setting, I was able to reduce the bass on the head unit further and still really get some major production out of the sub.

I downloaded an sound app to confirm that the amp was reading and responding to the new range from the modded knob. But of course the difference was also easy to hear.

Attached are screen shots of the same part of the same song, same volume, same test location, same head unit EQ. Nothing too scientific but something to look at. One is taken at the low end on the modded knob (equivalent to the max of the stock knob) and the other at the new high of 40k, or double what the old one would have been. Measures about a 10db difference right near the sub.

OnTheReel · March 19, 2020

Short version:

Dynamat-ed both doors, drastically reduced rattle, but some remained without the sub. The worse part was the distortion from the door speakers, they were simply asked to be doing too much.

Installed sub with bass knob, all dip switches up. Allowed me to flatten the head unit EQ and eliminated remaining rattles (and the heads up display shake which was also annoying). However it was clear that there was more left in the tank.

After modding the knob I think I have this system perfect. I’ve been running the modded knob at full (so 40k resistance) with all types of music. In classic rock (mostly what I listen to) it sounds amazing, door speakers are now crystal clear, even at 100% volume (which is uncomfortably loud). Sub lets you feel the bass drum kick and the whole setup just plain rocks. In rap music that sub really, really cranks.

In the name of science, I have also purchased two other inexpensive bass knobs from Amazon that use the same 3.5mm connector. I want to measure what resistance they operate in. Perhaps there is an off the shelf knob we can use unaltered to get a larger sweep. Because the downside to my mod at the moment is that it cannot be turned down below what was the previous maximum. You could use a smaller resistor but then the top end is not as high. Replacing the pot altogether is another option, but also not as DIY friendly.

If there is a better knob to be used, that would be great. In the meantime I’m happy with what I’ve done. Why Kicker sells a knob that seems to throttle the system so much, I don’t understand....

truck_newbie · March 19, 2020

3 hours ago, OnTheReel said:

Short version:

Dynamat-ed both doors, drastically reduced rattle, but some remained without the sub. The worse part was the distortion from the door speakers, they were simply asked to be doing too much.

Installed sub with bass knob, all dip switches up. Allowed me to flatten the head unit EQ and eliminated remaining rattles (and the heads up display shake which was also annoying). However it was clear that there was more left in the tank.

After modding the knob I think I have this system perfect. I’ve been running the modded knob at full (so 40k resistance) with all types of music. In classic rock (mostly what I listen to) it sounds amazing, door speakers are now crystal clear, even at 100% volume (which is uncomfortably loud). Sub lets you feel the bass drum kick and the whole setup just plain rocks. In rap music that sub really, really cranks.

In the name of science, I have also purchased two other inexpensive bass knobs from Amazon that use the same 3.5mm connector. I want to measure what resistance they operate in. Perhaps there is an off the shelf knob we can use unaltered to get a larger sweep. Because the downside to my mod at the moment is that it cannot be turned down below what was the previous maximum. You could use a smaller resistor but then the top end is not as high. Replacing the pot altogether is another option, but also not as DIY friendly.

If there is a better knob to be used, that would be great. In the meantime I’m happy with what I’ve done. Why Kicker sells a knob that seems to throttle the system so much, I don’t understand....

That's some nice sleuthing. Thanks for sharing.

OnTheReel · March 24, 2020

Just a little update. Tried two other knobs off Amazon, neither one worked in the right resistance range the Kicker amp looks for. So as of now, replacing the resistor on the circuit board of the OEM Kicker knob is the best (or only) way to get more bump out of it. I have located suitable pots to replace the factory one on the board with a different range but they come from China and everything is screwed up so that will be a project for another time.

Either way, I’m still really pleased with how it’s working out.

So if anyone is less than impressed with the Kicker as it comes, give it a try. I do work in the electronics field, but in my opinion, the resistor mod could be done by anyone with a soldering iron. Good luck.

MizzyFanBoy · March 25, 2020

Late to the party but getting a 2019 High Country with Bose and looking to add the kicker sub for the extra woomf. Does the app work as the EQ or do I still need the control knob?

OnTheReel · March 25, 2020

7 hours ago, MozzyFanBoy said:

Late to the party but getting a 2019 High Country with Bose and looking to add the kicker sub for the extra woomf. Does the app work as the EQ or do I still need the control knob?

The app doesn’t work with this setup. It’s knob or nothin.

Taylor206 · March 27, 2020

My new truck is being delivered today. I opted to have the dealership install the kicker sub/amp and the additional kicker amp for the other speakers. I ordered the bass knob which will arrive tomorrow. This truck is a non-Bose setup. Looking forward to getting this all dialed in.

Taylor206 · March 29, 2020

I installed the bass knob and changed the switches on the amp. This sub bumps! I had a custom box built for a 12 inch Alpine type R years back which really hit but for the price of this Kicker I don’t see how it could be any better. My only issue is the flex tune app for iPhone. I can’t get my app to find my kicker system. Any suggestions?

Edited March 29, 2020 by Taylor206

Denali_1500 · April 8, 2020

Did anyone install this

https://www.shopchevyparts.com/electronics/2019-silverado-1500-audio-upgrade-kickerreg-powered-subwoofer-kit-crew-cab-and-extended-cab/19417164-p-92303189.html

in a 2020 Bose optioned 2500HD High Country?

I just got my truck and the sound is really bad to me for a Bose system. This appears to be able to install under the rear seat, but I am curious the wiring is the same as the 19 1500

BigMick2023 · April 20, 2020

Hello all.....new owner and new member here.

I've read this whole thread as I want to pump up the stock audio system on my 2020 Silverado RST with basic radio.

Couple of questions after reading the thread:

Is there really a need for a hardware control when you can change it through the App I see others doing?
If a control is recommended, which one should I get? Amazon have several different part numbers?
Anyone have a installation manual to download for the Part # 19417165 that would be for my truck?
$999 looks like the going discount price from my searches?

Thanks for your help....

Brihorse · April 21, 2020

19 hours ago, BigMick2020 said:

Hello all.....new owner and new member here.

I've read this whole thread as I want to pump up the stock audio system on my 2020 Silverado RST with basic radio.

Couple of questions after reading the thread:

Is there really a need for a hardware control when you can change it through the App I see others doing?

If a control is recommended, which one should I get? Amazon have several different part numbers?

Anyone have a installation manual to download for the Part # 19417165 that would be for my truck?

$999 looks like the going discount price from my searches?

Thanks for your help....

BigMick2023 · April 21, 2020

1 hour ago, Brihorse said:

Awesome!

Thank You very much....

Keinsi · April 21, 2020

I have no experience with the Bose or Kicker subwoofer upgrade for these trucks, but I would like to share an alternative. SubThump makes down firing sing and dual 10" and 12" subwoofer enclosures for less than $200. Add a couple of higher end subwoofers for another $200 and you're still coming in far less than the factory offering. If you factor in a quality amplifier for another $300, you're still getting a pretty good deal.

For those wanting less "boom" they even offer a quad 8" front firing set up.

I've used these guys in my previous two trucks and loved the outcome and monetary savings.

...just another option to consider.

http://subthump.com/Sub-Boxes-for-Trucks/Chevrolet-GMC-Truck-and-SUV-Enclosures/Silverado-Crew-Cab