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On 9/22/2019 at 10:26 AM, truck_newbie said:

As promised, pictures of my install and some notes. 

1. I couldn't remove the right kick panel on my truck. Seems stuck so I had to use another ground point. There is a ground point (long bolt) behind the big blue plug in the fuse box. Also had to tap-off in the passenger sill because of this as shown in the pictures. 

2. The install guide said to tap-off a twisted yellow and yellow/black pair in the wire bundle. I couldn't find this pair in my truck. The closest i found was a twisted yellow/gray and yellow/black. I'm a engineer by trade and these 2 sets of wires are not the same. Nevertheless, i contacted kicker support and they suggested i test the yellow/gray and yellow/black pair for dc and ac voltages. This worked. Not sure why the coloring in my truck is different. I have confirmed this is indeed the right front speaker by fading completely to the left and the bass goes away. 

3. The knob wire is long enough to route through the cable channel. This is what i did. Zip-tied everything together. Stuck the knob under the trailer brake with 3m vhb and it fits perfectly. The knob wire routed cleanly. 

4. Didn't have to cut any carpet or floor mats as mentioned in the install guide. 

knob.thumb.jpg.38c29d8d6b637585e0138679a465ded8.jpg

cable_channel_rear.thumb.jpg.b847d68761b4ba98b0502178afb0106a.jpgtap.thumb.jpg.0c1a6152477a604c05807ffb056aaabf.jpg

right_side_view.thumb.jpg.fea78e3b95f9b1524b0d414ce14fa99f.jpg

front_view.thumb.jpg.2f0ff95848847ee917424a7908b26d26.jpg

left_side_view.thumb.jpg.5b3f8c88d598c121a7aaf20c35ae9251.jpg

I do not have yellow wire as seen in pic 3.   any ideas where the hell it may be?

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1 hour ago, truck_newbie said:

It should be there if you have the Bose system. Do you see any twisted pair of wires at all?

yes i have 2 twisted pair of wires,  (yellow/black,Yellow/green)  and (grey/white,grey/black)   I do NOT have a solid yellow wire anywhere.  I tapped into the yellow/green wire and my amp stays on all the time.  

wire.jpg

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2 hours ago, 3000gt said:

yes i have 2 twisted pair of wires,  (yellow/black,Yellow/green)  and (grey/white,grey/black)   I do NOT have a solid yellow wire anywhere.  I tapped into the yellow/green wire and my amp stays on all the time.  

wire.jpg

That should be it. Did you do the fade test? If this is indeed the right front speaker, fading completely to the left will cut-out sound to the subwoofer. 

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16 hours ago, xxbill said:

Which side does this install on?  the left or right?   Larger or smaller seat on 2019 AT4?

 

 

Subwoofer installs on the driver side rear. Wire routing goes on the passenger side. You can see in the pictures above. 

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I am really starting to believe the Kicker powered subwoofer is not meant for the Denali trim.  I installed the factory Kicker in my last 2015 SLT Sierra with Bose and it made a huge difference.  I installed 19417164 in my 2019 Denali, tried different switch settings and added the bass control knob and can barley tell a difference.  I also have noticed everyone posting that they are not impressed have the highest trim model as well.  Am I on to something here?  Anyone local to Ann Arbor, MI area and interested in my kit that has a non-Denali?

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I am really starting to believe the Kicker powered subwoofer is not meant for the Denali trim.  I installed the factory Kicker in my last 2015 SLT Sierra with Bose and it made a huge difference.  I installed 19417164 in my 2019 Denali, tried different switch settings and added the bass control knob and can barley tell a difference.  I also have noticed everyone posting that they are not impressed have the highest trim model as well.  Am I on to something here?  Anyone local to Ann Arbor, MI area and interested in my kit that has a non-Denali?

Do you have noise canceling?


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44 minutes ago, Jaychevy81 said:


Do you have noise canceling?


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Yes sir.  Do I need to do something to bypass it?  I didn't see anything in the instructions. I also had a spare connector near the subwoofer that didn't connect to anything which I thought was odd.

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I will bet it’s noise cancelling I remember reading posts that you have to disconnect the mics. No matter what system you have kicker or JL it’s doing it’s job of cancelling the noise. Worth a shot


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  • 2 weeks later...

Ok, I finally got my system installed. I have a 2019 Silverado Crew Cab with Bose.  It hits hard and deep and clean.  I did not want to fork out the $1500 for the JL Stealthbox with 2 of their thin 12'' subs.  I've always had the W3s and loved their clean deep sound and didn't want to risk being dissappointed with their thin subs. So I did a lot of research and ended up with the following:  (PLUS, I saved about $500 overall doing it this way.)

 

 I hope this posts helps clarify some challenges/questions.  

 

Amp: JL JX-1000

 
https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Jx500-Mono-Subwoofer-Amplifier/dp/B0081K3M5G/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=jl+audio+amplifier&qid=1570760485&sprefix=jl+&sr=8-4
 
Amp Wiring Kit: (high quality stuff)
 
 
Subs: 2 x JL 10w3v3 4 ohm
 
 
Bass Volume Knob:  installed up front under the steering column.  Allows me to turn the bass all the way down -- just Bose system playing. Or up to desired level.
 
 
Box: (very happy with quality of build and fitment in my truck) I did apply some additional caulk inside the box where it looked like some of the cracks were missed)
 
 
Wiring:
 
 
You'll need to determine if you have the 'noise cancelling' feature.  If you do, you'll see a microphone thing on the ceiling above your rear seat.  LLJ Customs can provide you a harness bypass plug as part of your T-harness purchase if you do.  I did not have that feature so all I used was the T-harness. 
 
You'll need to order a Line Output Converter (LOC) with the T-harness from LLJ so that you can get clean signal to your amplifier.  I went with the upgraded "active" LOC -- https://www.audiocontrol.com/car-audio/factory-system-upgrade/lc2i/ -- WHICH LLJ will hook up for you as part of the T-harness purchase.
 
NOTE: You'll need to remove the back seat from the back wall in order to run your wires and install the Lc2i.  I don't have a picture of it, but my installer used double sided sticky tape to adhere it to the back wall just to the right of some other electronic box that was alread in there. (there's plenty of room on the back wall for it)
 
Here's a good video that is helpful.  However when he talks about pushing down on the seat locks, don't do that.  I used a long allen wrench to lift up on the hook on top of the locking mechanism which made it much easier.  There are 4 10mm bolts on the bottom you'll have to use an extender to reach.  Once you get them started, you can remove them by hand.  
 
 
Here are some pics of my install:
 
 

Screen Shot 2019-10-29 at 2.46.42 PM.png

Screen Shot 2019-10-29 at 2.46.34 PM.png

Screen Shot 2019-10-29 at 2.46.24 PM.png

Screen Shot 2019-10-29 at 2.46.12 PM.png

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by Wakezilla
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don't bother with the kicker bullshit..JL audio makes a stealth box...custom built for the truck, I would recommend this over all options available..keep in mind you have to run power and ground to an external amp and spend more dead presidents lol
 


Your looking at $3300 in parts to do that setup properly. (Not some hillbilly amp from bestbuy).

Plus your average joe will need it installed which is easily $300-500

Who’s going to dial in the tuning? Hard to find a installer that gets the mic out and creates a specific DSP file for you.

Then to Run that setup with our $5 paper cone Bose speakers? If you have money to burn, yea it’s a solid setup, the box is overpriced though.. and you’ll overpower and drown out your mains..


for $450, find me a factory tuned class d 32bit amp, sub, and sealed box with a factory fit.


And I’m not taking a dump on JL... I have 3 stealth boxes with w6s and a 8inch w7 paired with a 13w7 in my boat..


If you just need that kind of bass,

Get a hertz or w7 10 inch, custom built pine box, sealed, best amp you can afford (if JL, no less than $800). That will acoustically sound better, and hit harder than those 2 shallow w6s




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I am really starting to believe the Kicker powered subwoofer is not meant for the Denali trim.  I installed the factory Kicker in my last 2015 SLT Sierra with Bose and it made a huge difference.  I installed 19417164 in my 2019 Denali, tried different switch settings and added the bass control knob and can barley tell a difference.  I also have noticed everyone posting that they are not impressed have the highest trim model as well.  Am I on to something here?  Anyone local to Ann Arbor, MI area and interested in my kit that has a non-Denali?


Did you install it? Do you have experience with kind of stuff? It’s not noise canceling.

What’s your source? iPhone hardwired is best, get song with bass (Ini Kamoze - World-A-Music) is often used in audiophile community.

First is it firing? Jam your hand under there and you can easily feel the sub and how hard it’s hitting.

Look over your wiring, triple check.

Put the dials back in orig config. That’s critical

Make sure the system is off and no power before plugging in bass knob or it will throw off entire systems gain.

There is nothing different between my AT4 and your Denali that would affect this. The sub, when properly installed, shakes my truck.

It’s either installed incorrectly or your amp is dead.



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I will bet it’s noise cancelling I remember reading posts that you have to disconnect the mics. No matter what system you have kicker or JL it’s doing it’s job of cancelling the noise. Worth a shot


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That’s 100% for JL audio stealth box not this system.

I Had the issue with my SRT and ended up ripping the SC module out.

Also noise cancelling doesn’t do shit, it’s mainly to block out odd noise from engine going between 1-8 cylinders., Which already sounds like shit.


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