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Good morning,

 

So I'm finally going to reach out to my fellow Silverado and Sierra owners. I have been dealing with a harmonic vibration issue with my 2014 Silverado crew cab 5.3 2WD for around 5 months. I have taken my truck into 3 different dealers to only have the driveshaft replaced under the powertrain warranty and it fixed about 40% of my vibration issue. The vibration can be felt in the gas pedal, steering wheel, seat, and it can be heard. It sounds a lot like a phasing boom. The dealer that replaced the driveshaft has said they now believe its my "CHEAP hancook tires" but I can duplicate the vibration with the truck supported on jack stands under the axle housing (not changing the pinion angle) with the wheels removed. Now with the wheels removed the vibration is not as bad but its still the same vibration I'm experiencing. One dealer told me I have a bent axle but I don't have any wobble side to side with the wheel on. the driver side wheel does look like it has a highspot with the wheel installed (you can swap wheels with the same results). the tech that replaced the driveshaft said he checked the axles and the checked out okay... Now I have yet to get a good dry warm day to throw a dial indicator on it myself to check but I wanted to check with yall and see what you think. the next nice day I get I plan on pulling the diff cover and taking a look inside. but any help would be much appreciated. I took it in to see about trading back into a Toyota and they didn't want to give me hardly anything for it and the new TRD Tacoma I drove just seemed so cheap for the $36,xxx they wanted for it. My Silverado has a lot more features plus im a fan of the LS engines so I plan on trying to resolve this issue before I try to trade it again.

 

vibration is felt from 20-70+mph the worst is 55-65mph. running boards have been removed, new trans mount, new complete driveshaft. tires have been rotated and the vibration is still coming from the rear center of the truck. Vibrates in V4 & V8, and in neutral.

 

I also have a case opened with GM on this issue since October 2018 so it's well documented.

 

2014 Silverado LT 5.3L 6l80e 2WD crew cab. (built in the mexico plant)

87,XXX MILES.

 

Please keep the stupid comments to yourself. I just want to get this issue resolved so I can enjoy this truck.

 

 

2014 silverado.JPG

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Road force all the tires and add the gm bulletin listed shims. Then if there is still.a issue I would bet axles. There was a run of bad ones and by run I mean about all of them. 

Oh and hub center wheel centers. What ever they call them. Again cheap.and a listed must for service claim.

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19 minutes ago, 1SLOW1500 said:

Road force all the tires and add the gm bulletin listed shims. Then if there is still.a issue I would bet axles. There was a run of bad ones and by run I mean about all of them. 

Oh and hub center wheel centers. What ever they call them. Again cheap.and a listed must for service claim.

That's what im leaning towards. I did run through a pot hole one day pulling out of the parking lot at work. and my vibration got a little worse after that. but the first dealer I took it to said they were fine and along with the third dealer. the second said I had a damaged axle and wanted to tear the rear end apart PER GM and see if a pot hole caused damage. if so then I was going to pay $900 for just labor to find out. I said F**K that I will do it myself. I seen one guy on youtube had a problem with his axles and he replaced them with Yukon gear and it fixed his problem. I did notice it looks like my out hub faces aren't round but like I said I haven't put a dial on it yet to see.

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I sent Yukon a message the other day. I'm still waiting for a reply. Did yours feel like a buzzing in the gas pedal? I also have noticed it seems like mine is sluggish. If I let off the gas it almost seems like you have the brakes applied very little. but all my pads and rotors look good and I don't have any brake pedal pulsing.

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5 minutes ago, Sierra Dan said:

mattjohn245,

 

Do you notice this vibration being more pronounced between 1500 and 1900' RPM's ?

I wouldn't say its much more pronounced.. but most of my driving consists of 60mph at 1500RPM. Everynow and then when I'm driving along I notice it will switch to V4 and the RPM drops to 1,000 or so and ill get a more pronounced buzzing and vibration and when you left off the gas it shudders (it does this really bad when going 35-40 on back roads)

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7 minutes ago, Sierra Dan said:

So you never really notice this just shortly after a dead stop before you reach 35mph?

Does it ever seem to stay in V4 even when pressing the gas pedal to lightly accelerate?

 

yes, It will stay in V4 under load. I can go from 60mph to 10mph turning off the highway onto my road I live on, and once I make the turn and press the gas it will stay in V4 until you goose it pretty good. It goes into V4 at times I don't think it should... my commute to work is all highway at 60mph 16 miles each way and I think it has just learned how I drive possibly.

 

Are you leaning towards torque converter shudder from the dead stop to 35MPH? One shop foreman with a dealership rode with me and said, he thought it was a torque converter issue. they said the fluid pressures checked out and it locked up like it should. I mentioned to them after 4,000 miles of driving with the driveshaft out of spec wouldn't that cause wear on transmission and rear end components? they replied with "well you have cheap hancook tires and an out of round rim. so to continue further you need to purchase a OEM wheel to continue further". The service advisor also told me "well we have replaced everything under warranty that we could so if you want to proceed your going to have to start paying for labor and parts." 

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  • 2 weeks later...

If it feels like you're going over rumble sticks/ rpm flutter at constant speed. Look up torque converter shudder. There is a service bulletin that can be applied under your drivetrain warranty. I believe mine started the same way until it was a consistent failure on the highway. Don't change anything for a an other 10,000 miles or until it gets worse. The RPM flutter will get more pronounced and then you know it's the torque converter shudder. 

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