Using interior light switch to power new LED interior light

[Plumber101010]

Amazing how ridiculously low lit the interior lights are and I bought these on Amazon which are super super bright. It has it’s own on off switch and it’s easily accessible so I don’t need to do this but just because it’s been habit so long it would be nice to use the switch to turn this on but even though it’s LED it’s probably going to draw a lot more power as the wires the OEM switch feeds for its LED is so small it looks like a human hair! LOL.

So I don’t think it’s going to work using the switch as I believe the new lights will overload it unless I combine all four wires together. But I would like to use the power positive and negative coming in at least so I don’t have to run new wires. The picture is deceiving these things are really big like 12 inches long by 4 inches wide 

Can someone look at this harness and tell me which two wires to use and opinions on whether the switches will handle this new LED light?

[1SLOW1500]

I wouldn't and didn't do it that way. I went to the bcm under the dash and taped the door trigger wire then micro relay to isolate the draw. The truck can give a code for that circuit current draw too high. 

You can tap that switch wire if it is truly a 12volt source and you relay it. Or get a pnp nav disable module and wire of that or power out of fuse panel. 

[Plumber101010]

Well I was hoping if I tied into the correct wire it would come on when the door opened like the original.  Because there’s four separate LED lights if I combine all four wires together into one switch I don’t think it will overload that way, but then again, I’m not positive LOL!  The company doesn't supply any information on electrical draw.  But LED drawls so little am hoping

[Plumber101010]

I actually am using some really great ones right now they are the new light switch type and they are so bright they blind you unfortunately the batteries drain so fast it’s just too expensive! 

But mainly it always helps to know what’s positive and negative! LOL.  

But now that I have thought about it longer I’m not worried about the switch anymore as I say it’s just as easy to turn the switch on the light itself if not actually easier than the console switch plus I can utilize front back or both with the new switch. 

I’m really more interested in having them come on when I open the door and maintaining the option to choose off, on or door and we know that switch is controlling all four lights so there will be no chance of overload and it’s safer doing it that way don’t have to worry about too much load. 

So now after contemplating longer I just need to know what color wire to hook up to the new light and I guess I can do process of illumination!! 

LOL that was actually a typo for elimination but it seems to work perfect either way! The vendor says it’s bi-directional so there’s no positive or negative either way it works. If that was the only thing it was controlling I wouldn’t care but that’s the main harness that feeds other stuff as well as airbag lights and the door switch control for either on or off.

So really I guess all I need to know if anybody knows, is what would be the correct color wire to hook up to the new light so that I can maintain the option of choosing on or off or door  and then I don’t have to risk using the switch!

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[Plumber101010]

4 wires going to that door on off switch black yellow and green or gray (color blind) I’m gonna use volt meter but prob yellow is hot and black is ground

Edited February 1, 2019 by Plumber101010

[Plumber101010]

I got it figured out thanks anyway everyone!!!

 

For anyone else seeking this information:

 

I tested all three connectors and could only find a good 12v + and - at the rear connector for the interior light switch. The left most yellow wire is 12v + and the right most black is - . The yellow wire is triggered with door opening and stays on until all accessory power shuts off. When you lock the car it shuts quickly, otherwise is remains on for maybe 20 sec

 

 

 

 

Edited February 1, 2019 by Plumber101010

[Plumber101010]

Actually it’s turning out to be a little bit more complicated when I tried to do something fancy and it appears it’s not just a yellow that’s positive but one of the gray is an alternate 12v source so I wouldn’t count on that information being accurate as the gentleman who wrote the article stated!!! 

The yellow is positive but only while the engine is running or the key is on but after the vehicle goes dead it loses it and the other wire picks it up!!!

[Davidj101]

I've thought about adding brighter lights to the interior of my truck, but haven't pursued it yet. So I appreciate you posting this. In fact I've thought about replacing the no-account glasses holder with a light fixture. 

 

Looking at the schematics for my truck, if you wanted them to work with the existing interior lights you'd pull power from the X61A junction box, connector X3, pin 29 (gray wire). That way the On-Off-Door switch would control their behavior. 

 

Now if you wanted to also control them with a local switch, you'd need a single pole double throw switch and wire the normally open side to X61A, connector X3, pin 25 (Wht/Brn wire). 

 

<EDIT>

I just looked again and if you're going to put the lights near the overhead console you could pull power from X316 pin 21 for On-Off-Door switch power and pin 7 for local switch power. 

Edited February 1, 2019 by Davidj101

[Plumber101010]

On 2/1/2019 at 2:48 PM, Davidj101 said:

I've thought about adding brighter lights to the interior of my truck, but haven't pursued it yet. So I appreciate you posting this. In fact I've thought about replacing the no-account glasses holder with a light fixture. 

 

Looking at the schematics for my truck, if you wanted them to work with the existing interior lights you'd pull power from the X61A junction box, connector X3, pin 29 (gray wire). That way the On-Off-Door switch would control their behavior. 

 

Now if you wanted to also control them with a local switch, you'd need a single pole double throw switch and wire the normally open side to X61A, connector X3, pin 25 (Wht/Brn wire). 

 

<EDIT>

I just looked again and if you're going to put the lights near the overhead console you could pull power from X316 pin 21 for On-Off-Door switch power and pin 7 for local switch power. 

 

Just noticed this post and even though that project is complete and I wound up using the OEM middle switch for exterior cargo lights which I don’t use because I have a topper that information you left is awesome!!!!