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The "Catch Can" Explained - By Elite Engineering


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The sooner you install the catch can the better. However, I just did the install you are doing on my truck that has the Air Raid Air Box Tube. When you install both the oil catch can and the clean side separator kit, you use the fittings on the air tube, I modified the fittings to fit the application. The passenger side fitting gets plugged off when you do the separator kit. The fitting on the driver's side comes with an adaptor to reduce the truck's 1/2" hose barb to a 3/8" line.

 

I bought a plug for the passenger's side and found a fitting with a 90 degree 3/8" barb for the driver's side to eliminate the hose adapter all together. Much cleaner install. When you go to install the Air raid you will see what I mean.

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I know this is probably beaten to death, but has anyone actually looked in one of the 2014+ GM DI engines for carbon build up?

I searched and failed. Thanks!

 

 

Here's a very interesting article on today's DI engines. (not GM's though)

http://www.edmunds.com/autoobserver-archive/2011/06/direct-injection-fouls-some-early-adopters.html

 

Edit: Found this thread. http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/168709-intake-manifold-off-with-pics-of-intake-valves-with-deposits/

anyone have any more examples?

Edited by m3n00b
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Hey Willshire. I am familiar with the ADD W1. But what is a "modded" W1?

I was referring to installing a coalescent in the internal baffle. As in the other thread, i installed some screen and stainless pot scrubber in the baffle to provide better coalescing than from the manufacturer. the holes in the baffle are too big to be effective. See the ADD W1 thread to see what i mean.

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The sooner you install the catch can the better. However, I just did the install you are doing on my truck that has the Air Raid Air Box Tube. When you install both the oil catch can and the clean side separator kit, you use the fittings on the air tube, I modified the fittings to fit the application. The passenger side fitting gets plugged off when you do the separator kit. The fitting on the driver's side comes with an adaptor to reduce the truck's 1/2" hose barb to a 3/8" line.

 

I bought a plug for the passenger's side and found a fitting with a 90 degree 3/8" barb for the driver's side to eliminate the hose adapter all together. Much cleaner install. When you go to install the Air raid you will see what I mean.

 

Do you have a picture of your install? I just installed the Air Raid Jr kit, and my Elite catch can and clean side separator just showed up. Would love to have a visual reference of the changes you made if possible :thumbs:

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The threads were tapped at a weird angle or the boss was not square with the tube. I had to check it twice when I did it. Every time I look at this picture it drives me nuts. It is air tight though!

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I dropped my truck off for some warranty work (shocks, loose driver's seat, etc) and the sales manager said my clean side separator was a "bad idea" and "could cause problems down the road" when referring to the bank-to-bank connection (see photo).

 

He mentioned that that type of system is only recommend for "long term/ high RPM type applications... such as towing". He also mentioned "by bypassing the PCV system, I no longer have any positive crankcase ventilation pressure".

 

I politely thanked him for his advice and input on the situation and went my way.

 

What all say the hive?

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Guys, there are several threads on this subject on this site along with you tube videos. The service manger is mistaken. The 1/2" hose that goes side to side just seals the system back up so you do not have a vacuum leak. I guess he doesn't see the replacement for the breather with the hose going to the exact same place the previous ones do! Maybe he would be happier if there were two of them, one from each valve cover. When it's time to drain your catch can, go to that service manger and ask him how the oil and other crap got into the can if there is no PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) system in tact.

 

The oil catch can (any brand or model) does nothing more than run in-line to the existing PCV system. All you are doing is capturing some of the oil mist that is a natural by product (blow by) of the motor and converting it back to oil along with the other nasties. The water is from condensation on the outside because you are cooling off the mixture. Think of it like an in-line fuel filter. The clean air system is an add on that takes GM's dual side system that is routed to the air box chamber and redirects it to one valve cover with a cross over hose going from one side to the side that evacuates thru the replacement for the oil cap.

 

The only pitfall to this whole system, no matter how efficient, is that you have to empty the catch can occasionally. The colder the weather the more often you need to check it.

 

One last question....... since when did towing become a high rpm type application? :M16:

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Been reading forum after forum, I'm convinced and I would love to buy one, but I'm pretty lost on what brand to get. I see people mentioning Jegs and Elite. I'd like to stay in the >$100 range.. Any suggestions?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Well, I went ahead and bought an Elite. Should ship out tomorrow (hopefully) and I'll be on my way with the install!

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hopefully you are not disappointed in order fulfillment. I ordered an E2-X on 22 Feb. Received shipment tracking info on 25 Feb. It did not ship until 03 Mar. FedEx says it will be delivered tomorrow, 08 Mar.
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