The "Catch Can" Explained - By Elite Engineering

SS502 · February 8, 2019

3 minutes ago, Elite Engineering said:

Nice installation, and great looking engine bay!!

How refreshing! A supporting vendor saying something nice even though it's not their Catch Can being shown. That's just Classy in my book Thank you Elite.

Elite Engineering · February 8, 2019

That's how we roll

amused2deth · February 8, 2019

I have like 35k miles. Too late to add a catch can? What's the website for the catch can talked about here?

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Elite Engineering · February 8, 2019

No, 35K miles is still a great time to add a Catch Can to your truck. It will prevent any future damage.

EpicLT · February 8, 2019

1 minute ago, Elite Engineering said:

No, 35K miles is still a great time to add a Catch Can to your truck. It will prevent any future damage.

Can you please help me out with a catch can? What are the best options/system? I am new to a catch can - had never heard of them until a month ago and still failing to completely understand them. Thank you

Elite Engineering · February 8, 2019

Sure. The first post of this crazy long thread is a good place to start, but shoot us an email and we'll get you a ton of information. We can be reached at [email protected] or [email protected]

I'll send you a PM too.

3tspapat · February 8, 2019

1 hour ago, Elite Engineering said:

No, 35K miles is still a great time to add a Catch Can to your truck. It will prevent any future damage.

better hurry! the cut off for CC install is like 35,001 miles before it's too late!

jk. just the single valve is enough, either elite, UPR, RXP, etc. If you WOT a lot then get CSS also.

I have Elite CSS and UPR CC. I set that up because that was the most cost effective system.

Nitrousbird · February 9, 2019

On 2/7/2019 at 6:40 PM, STRMTRPR said:

I will still probably end up relocating the can to the front corner of the engine to free up the area around the oil fill and dipstick in the spring when the weather warms up.

Bad idea IMO. The two reasons you want it where it is located:

1 - Engine heat. The hotter you can keep the can, the less condensation is collected in the can = drain it less often

2 - Ease of draining. Relocating to where you want will result in the need to drain more often while making the process more difficult. To drain my UPR, I simply open the hood, stick a water bottle under the valve and turn it. With your proposed idea, you will have to either remove the can or rig up some hose setup to run to the bottom of the truck, get down there, line a bottle up, go back up to turn the valve, go back to collect the bottle.

bsprtsgrp · February 9, 2019

First Oil Change since I installed the catch can in October. This is what I found today

SS502 · February 9, 2019

On 2/4/2019 at 9:15 PM, camcamaro1991 said:

The way you installed it causes vacuum issues, you shouldn't hook the valley and valve covers to the same can. They should be separate, it will create a vacuum on the oil system. example it will make removing the oil cap difficult. it also can suck seals inside out.

On 2/4/2019 at 9:35 PM, camcamaro1991 said:

link to the video you made?

also I been doing some testing of my own, found that if you can place the catch can where there is some air flow to cool the can while driving you get much better results, the can is still extremely hot where you placed it as well as where I had mine. reducing the temp at the can will generate better results.

On 2/9/2019 at 6:52 AM, Nitrousbird said:

Bad idea IMO. The two reasons you want it where it is located:

1 - Engine heat. The hotter you can keep the can, the less condensation is collected in the can = drain it less often

2 - Ease of draining. Relocating to where you want will result in the need to drain more often while making the process more difficult. To drain my UPR, I simply open the hood, stick a water bottle under the valve and turn it. With your proposed idea, you will have to either remove the can or rig up some hose setup to run to the bottom of the truck, get down there, line a bottle up, go back up to turn the valve, go back to collect the bottle.

***Was replying to Nitrousbird and trying to show someone else’s posts who was telling me my stuff was all wrong, Nitrousbird’s post is cool with me***

Guess it depends on who you ask lol...I can at least comprehend your post! But I will say that in my location and @STRMTRPR who is thinking of moving his, it gets plenty warm but not superheated. There is a ton of room to get a container in there between the can(s) and the spare battery tray for empties...no getting under the truck, simply place a plastic container on the spare battery tray, open the valve and wait for it to empty! I do this every time I check the oil which is once a week, sort of a ritual. It also leaves a very easy access to the oil dipstick, yours may not impede on the dipstick but some do. I never noticed lots of condensation but will watch for it. Was doing the reinstall today and broke the PCV valve being an idiot, they are plastic and I just used too much oomph to get the line off...none in stock close by so try the Chevy dealer Monday, my dealer doesn’t have one. I will say that being close to the engine (your location) may help keeping with keeping it from freezing for those in the cold climate. It certainly won’t hurt anything...unless you go by what was said in the posts I quoted above ? because if my location is too hot...well you get it.

Edited March 31, 2019 by SS502

Elite Engineering · February 10, 2019

On 2/9/2019 at 9:25 AM, bsprtsgrp said:

First Oil Change since I installed the catch can in October. This is what I found today

Like we always say, the proof is in the Catch Can - these things really work!

STRMTRPR · February 19, 2019

.. checked my catch can today after my first 1600km or 1000 miles and the can was already half full! Granted about 75% is probably water from condensation.. but that's to be expected from the cold weather living up here in the North Country

SS502 · February 19, 2019

2 minutes ago, STRMTRPR said:

.. checked my catch can today after my first 1600km or 1000 miles and the can was already half full! Granted about 75% is probably water from condensation.. but that's to be expected from the cold weather living up here in the North Country

Yep! So much nicer than having that go back through your intake and valves. It amazes me that when pictures show the crud, there are still doubters. I can’t say this is a cure all for valve coking but it’s gotta help!!! Thanks for posting

Elite Engineering · February 20, 2019

17 hours ago, STRMTRPR said:

.. checked my catch can today after my first 1600km or 1000 miles and the can was already half full! Granted about 75% is probably water from condensation.. but that's to be expected from the cold weather living up here in the North Country

Very nice!

SS502 · February 23, 2019

Here is a pic of catch can results after exactly 100 miles. Note that there is virtually no water but is does smell of gasoline. Mounting it on the fender did not create more water condensation at all. The oil has about 1500 miles on it.

Edited March 31, 2019 by SS502