The "Catch Can" Explained - By Elite Engineering

[Elite Engineering]

3 hours ago, diyer2 said:

OK Elite.

But having the choice on all models makes sense to me.

 

 

 

[Dearmosd]

i think the difference would be the clean side connection seems to be on the top side of the TB on some engines (known years) but on my 2018 the clean side was on the side of the intake plenum

 

[SS502]

On 1/18/2019 at 8:35 AM, Dearmosd said:

i think the difference would be the clean side connection seems to be on the top side of the TB on some engines (known years) but on my 2018 the clean side was on the side of the intake plenum

 

This is a representation of my 2018 6.2L please note that it is only to point out the clean/dirty ports on my 6.2L the clean side line appears too short in this picture. It’s not my engine (raining right now) but my ports are in the same position.

 

Edited March 31, 2019 by SS502

[STRMTRPR]

My catch can from UPR arrived today (fast shipping to Canada) and was waiting for me when I got home from work.. but it will need to wait a couple days for warmer weather to install..-35C is just a little too cold for that!

[SS502]

Got my RXP dual can set-up coming...

 

 

Edited March 31, 2019 by SS502

[Joe@UPRproducts]

17 hours ago, SS502 said:

Got my RXP dual can set-up coming...

I never noticed that the small can is just a billet inline fuel filter with a hole drilled in the sie of it!

How much was that system? The internal filter image on their website is from a regular fuel filter. 

 

You can get that filter on eBay for $18 Shipped and RX sells it for $149.00!!!

 

I would send that back as you are not getting any deal unless it's a FREE kit they sent you to test.

 

Also, they are advertising a heat exchanger feature and adding a nipple to the end of the diffuser

like a drip tube is not a heat exchanger. Just saw that after your image post as I used to watch RX

make many claims with different parts that were not above board. I don't like seeing anyone taken

advantage of as these boards are to share and educate fellow enthusiasts about good products

and companies.

 

Just search eBay for this part name.  - billet aluminum inline fuel filter

 

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=billet+aluminum+inline+fuel+filter&_sacat=0

 

I hope this helps you get a better setup that is meant to deal with the PCV system. 

 

 

Edited January 23, 2019 by Joe@UPRproducts

[SS502]

Joe...I appreciate the concerns about anyone getting taken, without going into detail I will say I do not have any more money invested. I will still be using the UPR bridge line

[flyingfool]

I use this on my truck guys, it's $15 for the BMW catch can, and requires $10 in heater hose to connect to your valve cover vent ports..

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MZIR0YU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Edited January 24, 2019 by flyingfool

[flyingfool]

this one has three cyclones which has even higher filtration efficiency

https://www.amazon.com/Dade-Separator-Crankcase-Breather-079103464D/dp/B01GCSM00Q/ref=pd_day0_hl_263_16?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01GCSM00Q&pd_rd_r=cc612ae3-1ff1-11e9-8398-b3ecd3f33b25&pd_rd_w=kSrvG&pd_rd_wg=zTDMI&pf_rd_p=ad07871c-e646-4161-82c7-5ed0d4c85b07&pf_rd_r=MEFPSZCXZEYCEE9DRXYJ&psc=1&refRID=MEFPSZCXZEYCEE9DRXYJ

[SS502]

35 minutes ago, flyingfool said:

just use this guys, it's $15 for the BMW catch can, and requires $10 in heater hose to connect to your valve cover vent ports..

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MZIR0YU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

25 minutes ago, flyingfool said:

this one has three cyclones which has even higher filtration efficiency

https://www.amazon.com/Dade-Separator-Crankcase-Breather-079103464D/dp/B01GCSM00Q/ref=pd_day0_hl_263_16?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01GCSM00Q&pd_rd_r=cc612ae3-1ff1-11e9-8398-b3ecd3f33b25&pd_rd_w=kSrvG&pd_rd_wg=zTDMI&pf_rd_p=ad07871c-e646-4161-82c7-5ed0d4c85b07&pf_rd_r=MEFPSZCXZEYCEE9DRXYJ&psc=1&refRID=MEFPSZCXZEYCEE9DRXYJ

These are pressure regulators/oil separators designed for the BMW/AUDI and I see no way to empty them even if hooked up correctly. What are you accomplishing (other than valve cover vent pressures) with these? So do you hook them up to the valve cover vents and then straight to the air box or how is it you have them routed? I must be missing something, the UPR, RXP and Elite all bridge the valve covers (if a CSS is used) and the main flow of things is from the dirty side out either on the valve cover valley on the 5.3 or just to the lower side of the TB on the 6.2 routed through the can and back to the clean side in near the top of the TB. Oil and other nasty stuff is caught in the can (which can be emptied and needs to be BTW) before it can be ingested down the TB, into the intake manifold and then into the cylinders. At best, I can see these replacing the CSS but it would look pretty funny. Pictures please??

Edited January 24, 2019 by SS502

[SS502]

Disregard...I already know.

Edited January 24, 2019 by SS502

[Elite Engineering]

With all the talk about Catch Cans, we thought it would be a good idea to combine the information into a smaller thread here.

 

To better understand the purpose of a good quality PCV Oil Catch Can and why they are important, we need to first understand the purpose of your Stock PCV System:

 

The PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) system on your engine is designed to regulate and remove fumes from the engine crankcase, and to alleviate crankcase pressure which could cause oil leaks or seal damage. It’s a way for gases to escape in a controlled manner from the crankcase of an internal combustion engine.

 

During normal operation of an internal combustion engine, there’s a compressed air and fuel mixture inside the combustion chamber that is ignited and as a result, forces the piston down. A small amount of that ignited mixture leaks past the piston rings and ends up in the crankcase.

 

This leakage is often referred to as “blow-by” (leakage past the piston rings), as well as oil mist. Some of the oil mist and other products settle along the engine intake and over time form a “gunk.” The oil catch can collects the oil mist and condenses the fuel vapors while allowing “cleaner” gases to be passed back into the intake.

 

If these contaminates are kept inside the combustion chamber, they will eventually make their way into the oil inside the crankcase and cause oil contamination and dilution or make their way back into the intake manifold.

 

This problem has been documented in many automotive magazines, Car & Driver had an article covering this topic (Carbon Deposits with Direct Injection) There are hundreds of images on the Internet of Carbon Build up on Intake Valves:

 

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/154204-oil-catch-can/?p=1608015

 

The purpose of a proper oil separating Catch Can is to route these gasses through a baffle system that provides the most contact possible with the outer surface resulting in the oil being trapped and removed from the other gasses that do continue on through the intake and are burnt and consumed. Typically the trapped oil is captured in the bottom of the Catch Can.

 

If you do your homework, you’ll find a lot of good Catch Cans on the market. You will also find a lot of products that claim to be Catch Cans but have no internal design or baffling to create the optimum amount of pressure drop to pull the oil out of the vapor.

Many Catch Cans on the market are just comprised of an empty container with 2 ports. While that simple design may trap a few oil droplets, a well-engineered Catch Can is designed to condense the oil vapor and trap the oil inside the container.

As I said, there are a lot on the market, go with a company you can trust. 

 

Do your homework, Elite Engineering has been the proven choice by Auto Tuners and written-up in many of the automotive magazines and the clear choice.  The proof IS IN THE CAN!

 

 

 

 

And because you have asked, we designed a taller version of our E2 Catch Can with more volume.  We already have our E2-X Ultra, which is a beast!  But now we can also offer our "Tall" E2 Catch Can.

 

This "Taller" E2 Catch Can holds an additional 4 ounces of liquid, which means less frequency required to empty.

 

And as with both our E2 and E2-X Catch Cans, they will outperform any other Catch Can on the market - period!  The proof is in the testing and what's caught in the bottom of the Catch Can.   In addition, we now offer our Catch Cans with quick connect GM style fittings.  Just ask for the GM Fittings during checkout, and we'll include them at no additional cost.

 

 

 

 

Edited January 24, 2019 by Elite Engineering

[cmatt]

I have one of your catch cans on my Yukon and am happy with it. I empty it every 2500 miles and typically get this much out of it.




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[Elite Engineering]

8 hours ago, cmatt said:

I have one of your catch cans on my Yukon and am happy with it. I empty it every 2500 miles and typically get this much out of it.

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Thank you for the support.  These Catch Cans DO work

 

[flyingfool]

Ok here's my BMW cyclone oil separator hooked up to the vavle covers, feeding to the cyclone, then routed back to the air intake ...

total cost was $25.00