The "Catch Can" Explained - By Elite Engineering

[Cowpie]

 

If you are using a quart of oil every 2K miles in that 3.6L, that engine is not healthy!

 

Another comment on catch cans: Millions of vehicles with DI engines (forced induction, and NA) have run millions, and millions of miles with no problems without a catch can. There has been no long term testing with catch cans. Matter of fact, since they condense water vapor (the major by-product of combustion), this would reduce the cleansing effect that water vapor has internally on an engine! Just something to consider!

 

 

Actually, go onto the Cadillac forums and read what others have said over the years regarding the LY7 3.6L engine. It is almost normal. Engine runs good and has great power.

 

The PCV port is an open port, there is no baffling of any kind between it and the top side, so that oil is sloshed all over it and is drawn into the orifice. The newer 3.6L do have improved baffling.

 

GM screwed the pooch in a few ways on the LY7. Lousy PCV setup with no baffling, and wildly long OLM oil change recommendations that led to a wide variety of problems, especially timing chain issues. A recall was done on that to reduce the OLM to 1/2 of it's original.

Edited August 5, 2017 by Cowpie

[Joe@UPRproducts]

To my fellow Enthusiasts,

 

For everyone to understand about catch cans and condensation. Certain companies promote catch cans with all the water or moisture they collect and that gives honest manufacturers a BAD RAP. I will share the fact that most of the condensation / moisture a catch can collects is from the catch can and not the engine. Engines heat up so fast they force the moisture to evaporate and thus do not contribute much to the condensation / moisture in the catch can that gives it that Starbucks look. The catch cans actually introduce more moisture and create a steam or cleaning effect on the engine internals.

 

Thin wall and welded catch cans will generate a lot more condensation / moisture as the thicker walled sturdier construction catch cans will not suffer from the same extreme temperature sweeps. Thicker catch cans will hold temperature better while driving as the thinner units will cool quickly allowing them to continually produce condensation / moisture while driving and this will fill the can quicker requiring additional maintenance for no reason and create a lot of wasted time.

 

The design is critical to how much oil will be separated before getting into the intake tract and combustion chamber. I have been watching many re-sellers make claims that create fear or post millions of DI pictures of engine failures and giant bottles of Starbucks looking fluids collected. The proper design of a catch can is to be able to keep the catch can hot enough to evaporate the condensation / moisture and still stop all the oil.

 

Most catch can manufacturers run the coolest location possible to hide the lack of efficiency and this is why so many catch can manufacturers show all these pictures of the Starbuck's looking Mixture.

 

The fuel that gets by the rings or gets collected in the catch can is harmless and can be burned in the combustion chamber without any negative effects.

 

The biggest thing we see with all the late model engines is how much stronger the PCV system function is and how much more oil they introduce and scavenge through the PCV to be ingested into the intake tract and combustion chamber.

 

Please keep in mind that a catch can is an oil separator. Larger catch cans collect 2x to 3x more condensation / moisture being mounted in cooler locations and that feeds the sales pitch and bad rap for catch cans that are mounted and function properly in hotter locations than others. I have worked hard watching many so called experts regurgitating things like send it to Blackstone and wait till you see how much they collect in the winter etc. LOL, these guys are selling something that has nothing to do with the normal PCV function. A PCV system mainly introduces oil and fuel into the intake tract and combustion chambers.

 

Either way, this is just to inform the readers about the reality of a Catch Can / Oil Separator's function and I'm not here to get into a he said she said and would just like to state the facts. 50yrs of racing experience and engine building with the very best in the industry has allowed us to test and see these things and it was the reason we have been able to continually discover many variables about the PCV that many still haven't figured out. We're not just some aftermarket street car guys that sell products and never talk down to anyone or want them to be uneducated about our products or a products true function. We sell our Catch Cans based on the true value and function and deliver the very best hoses, fitting and components across the board.

 

I'm not pushing any product here and just sharing the information about how critical the oil separation is and the rest of the things that get thrown in to try and sell and promote these products is nonsense.

 

Thank you for taking the time to read this and feel free to PM any questions as I'm always happy to help you make the ( best-educated decisions )

 

Joe / UPRproducts

Edited June 8, 2018 by JoeCCS

[mookdoc6]

To my fellow Enthusiasts,

 

For everyone to understand about catch cans and condensation. Certain companies promote catch cans with all the water or moisture they collect and that gives honest manufacturers a BAD RAP. I will share the fact that most of the condensation / moisture a catch can collects is from the catch can and not the engine. Engines heat up so fast they force the moisture to evaporate and thus do not contribute much to the condensation / moisture in the catch can that gives it that Starbucks look. The catch cans actually introduce more moisture and create a steam or cleaning effect on the engine internals.

 

Thin wall and welded catch cans will generate a lot more condensation / moisture as the thicker walled sturdier construction catch cans will not suffer from the same extreme temperature sweeps. Thicker catch cans will hold temperature better while driving as the thinner units will cool quickly allowing them to continually produce condensation / moisture while driving and this will fill the can quicker requiring additional maintenance for no reason and create a lot of wasted time.

 

The design is critical to how much oil will be separated before getting into the intake tract and combustion chamber. I have been watching many re-sellers make claims that create fear or post millions of DI pictures of engine failures and giant bottles of Starbucks looking fluids collected. The proper design of a catch can is to be able to keep the catch can hot enough to evaporate the condensation / moisture and still stop all the oil.

 

Most catch can manufacturers run the coolest location possible to hide the lack of efficiency and this is why so many catch can manufacturers show all these pictures of the Starbuck's looking Mixture.

 

The fuel that gets by the rings or gets collected in the catch can is harmless and can be burned in the combustion chamber without any negative effects.

 

The biggest thing we see with all the late model engines is how much stronger the PCV system function is and how much more oil they introduce and scavenge through the PCV to be ingested into the intake tract and combustion chamber.

 

Please keep in mind that a catch can is an oil separator. Larger catch cans collect 2x to 3x more condensation / moisture being mounted in cooler locations and that feeds the sales pitch and bad rap for catch cans that are mounted and function properly in hotter locations than others. I have worked hard watching many so called experts regurgitating things like send it to Blackstone and wait till you see how much they collect in the winter etc. LOL, these guys are selling something that has nothing to do with the normal PCV function. A PCV system mainly introduces oil and fuel into the intake tract and combustion chambers.

 

Either way, this is just to inform the readers about the reality of a Catch Can / Oil Separator's function and I'm not here to get into a he said she said and would just like to state the facts. 50yrs of racing experience and engine building with the very best in the industry has allowed us to test and see these things and it was the reason we have been able to continually discover many variables about the PCV that many still haven't figured out. We're not just some aftermarket street car guys that sell products and never talk down to anyone or want them to be uneducated about our products or a products true function. We sell our Catch Cans based on the true value and function and deliver the very best hoses, fitting and components across the board.

 

I'm not pushing any product here and just sharing the information about how critical the oil separation is and the rest of the things that get thrown in to try and sell and promote these products is nonsense.

 

Thank you for taking the time to read this and feel free to PM any questions as I'm always happy to help you make the ( best-educated decisions )

 

Joe / UPRproducts

 

Joe, are saying if I want a catch can to catch anything at all I should buy a Elite?

[Joe@UPRproducts]

On 8/7/2017 at 10:52 AM, mookdoc6 said:

Joe, are saying if I want a catch can to catch anything at all I should buy a Elite? What you choose is your decision MOOK.

 

I'm saying you should buy a more complex system with multiple internal diffuser and diffuser shield system with multiple filters made specifically for coalescing and condensing and not some steel media stuffed in the can. Something that works in the hot and cold and uses the best hoses that won't collapse and includes the best features as STANDARD equipment. Why sell a generic system that has to be upgraded to bring it to OEM standards. Which can you choose is your own decision and there is a reason we do not post what is caught in the colder months or tons of moisture / condensation as that is the placebo effect of the catch can and not the true function.

 

The true function is the darker colored oil and fuel that is collected is what needs to be contained. All you have to do is look at the quality of the best systems matched with the performance they deliver. I'm not a fan of hoses and clamps as most rubber hoses can collapse and there are many posts on here about rubber hoses. There's a reason we only offer Braided Contitech Insta-Grip Hoses and the best components overall. You can pop the hood on any vehicle with our system and they look factory / OEM and control oil from making it to your intake tract.

 

UPR Catch Cans have set the industry standards as we continue to expand our offerings. Building vehicle specific Catch Can Systems with pre-cut braided hoses, billet hose ends with plug n play™ fittings, custom mounting bracket and everything needed to have a plug n play™ catch can system that looks factory and makes the PCV system perform like it should.

 

Thank you, Joe

Edited June 8, 2018 by JoeCCS

[Q8_TwinTurbo]

Installed the Elite Engineering E2-X catch can with the clean-side separator. Have had it for 1550 miles, collected a good amount of used oil that did not make it to the intake. One of the best mods I have ever made.

[Elite Engineering]

Installed the Elite Engineering E2-X catch can with the clean-side separator. Have had it for 1550 miles, collected a good amount of used oil that did not make it to the intake. One of the best mods I have ever made.

 

Thanks for the great feedback

 

[Slapps74]

So I looked at this entire thread and maybe I missed it. I have an Elite catch can. One fitting on the side and one on the top and I have the braided hoses and a check valve.  I have not seen much with regards too boosted applications. I have a ProCharger and am curios to what the recommendation is 

Edited January 9, 2018 by Slapps74

[Josh154]

Just ordered the elite e2x can with clean side seperator! Don’t even have 1,000 miles on the truck yet and already worrie about my valves 

[Slapps74]

On 1/3/2018 at 10:09 PM, Slapps74 said:

So I looked at this entire thread and maybe I missed it. I have an Elite catch can. One fitting on the side and one on the top and I have the braided hoses and a check valve.  I have not seen much with regards too boosted applications. I have a ProCharger and am curios to what the recommendation is 

Anyone

[Josh154]

Well hopefully the elite can is better than there turn around time.. order was placed Monday morning, Wednesday night now and still not shipped. Seems like they need to hire more help to get orders out the door..

[Elite Engineering]

10 hours ago, Josh154 said:

Well hopefully the elite can is better than there turn around time.. order was placed Monday morning, Wednesday night now and still not shipped. Seems like they need to hire more help to get orders out the door..

I'm confident you'll be very pleased with the design and function of our Catch Can.  You'll be amazed how much is trapped inside our Catch Cans vs our competitors.  As far as shipping, I apologize.  We almost always ship all orders within 24 hours (most times the same day).  But we had a mix-up in our inventory after the holidays and our E2-X Catch Cans are delayed in manufacturing for about 7 days.

 

 

[Josh154]

Would have been nice to know when ordering or even getting a email after purchase stating they are back ordered.. I would have gone elsewhere. To late now I guess. 

[brholtz02]

Installed the E2-x on my 2017 Silverado, 5.3lt, with only 47 miles on it.  First oil change was at 4963 miles, the can was full 1/8" from threads.  Could end up being a better investment then the Weathertech mats.

[Josh154]

Just now, brholtz02 said:

Installed the E2-x on my 2017 Silverado, 5.3lt, with only 47 miles on it.  First oil change was at 4963 miles, the can was full 1/8" from threads.  Could end up being a better investment then the Weathertech mats.

Makes me sick thinking of all that shit.. I was hoping to have mine on before 1,000 miles but probably won’t even get it till I have 5,000 miles and my valves are already coated with shit. 

[Ozer]

Mine works great, i wish the canister was taller, or maybe an optional taller canister? I checked mine after about 1000 miles and it was almost full. Need to check it more often looks like.