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The "Catch Can" Explained - By Elite Engineering


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But how??? If you understand the principle of the oil catch can/ or the factory hose which goes from point A: PCV valve to B: the intake, I don't see how the oil catch can can cause the rear main seal to leak. Unless like you kinda stated, the fluid freezing causing a clog or it's filled up to the top and causing a vacuume block. I live in the south, Texas and it's rare to get freezing temps so I'll never exp what people up north have to deal with.

 

 

I really want to put the can back on my truck but a little skeptical since the dealership said that the can was the reason for the rear main seal to leak

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Never and mine has seen temps for a few years in the negative degrees in Jan/Feb. have had mine 4 years maybe

 

I drain mine every 3-4 wks roughly

 

Just drained Friday while doing an Oil change

 

f111a70d6d82f2f8381571c1d98b15a4.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

that is somewhat of an odd color? Do you think your getting a little coolant in your oil? I have never drained anything like that before just wondering?

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that is somewhat of an odd color? Do you think your getting a little coolant in your oil? I have never drained anything like that before just wondering?

That's normal moisture for cold weather...all engines put that out. Mine does it for short trips in cold weather, nothing like that for long trips or warm weather.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

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that is somewhat of an odd color? Do you think your getting a little coolant in your oil? I have never drained anything like that before just wondering?

Condensation from running the engine cold. It would burn off some moisture on a long trip. Mine fills up with oily water once a week in single digit temps. Even had it freeze into a big ice chunk in subzero temps.

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that is somewhat of an odd color? Do you think your getting a little coolant in your oil? I have never drained anything like that before just wondering?

It's normal from November-April then it goes back to normal oil colored and less fluid

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

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Never and mine has seen temps for a few years in the negative degrees in Jan/Feb. have had mine 4 years maybe

 

I drain mine every 3-4 wks roughly

 

Just drained Friday while doing an Oil change

 

f111a70d6d82f2f8381571c1d98b15a4.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

This is a very normal color, especially in the colder months where more condensate is present.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I just emptied mine after 550 miles and got 45ml of same looking stuff. I let it sit overnight and it separated into 4 or 5 different level of colored fluids. I tried to post a pic but it keeps saying over 1meg and too large. Can't figure out how to shrink image. Looks really cool though

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Never and mine has seen temps for a few years in the negative degrees in Jan/Feb. have had mine 4 years maybe

 

I drain mine every 3-4 wks roughly

 

Just drained Friday while doing an Oil change

 

f111a70d6d82f2f8381571c1d98b15a4.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

that is somewhat of an odd color? Do you think your getting a little coolant in your oil? I have never drained anything like that before just wondering?

Its probably all the mixes of gases, vapors and oil that makes it that color :)

Edited by AllTerrainX
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I just emptied mine after 550 miles and got 45ml of same looking stuff. I let it sit overnight and it separated into 4 or 5 different level of colored fluids. I tried to post a pic but it keeps saying over 1meg and too large. Can't figure out how to shrink image. Looks really cool though

 

Would be neat to see it! I understand I am far to old to be figuring out to pump pictures onto this forum

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But how??? If you understand the principle of the oil catch can/ or the factory hose which goes from point A: PCV valve to B: the intake, I don't see how the oil catch can can cause the rear main seal to leak. Unless like you kinda stated, the fluid freezing causing a clog or it's filled up to the top and causing a vacuume block. I live in the south, Texas and it's rare to get freezing temps so I'll never exp what people up north have to deal with.

 

 

It's a shame that so many dealers take advantage of aftermarket parts being the culprit for engine problems and or seal issues etc.

 

The only way a catch can cause a seal to leak is from the cheaper more faulty check valves failing or a blockage in any of the lines that are sagging and allowing fluid to collect between

the catch can and the valve cover. This will allow the line to freeze fluid-solid in that area if the check valves do not flow properly or the system does not command enough flow / vacuum.

 

Then back pressure is created and causes seals to leak and or build up so much pressure in the crankcase that it finds the path or seal with the least resistance and pushes past it. We

are having a giant influx of customers from all other brand catch cans switching to our new UPR Pro-Series™ Check Valve and it has been able to eliminate flow issues for cold weather

and allow the system to flow properly.

 

Joe

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that is somewhat of an odd color? Do you think your getting a little coolant in your oil? I have never drained anything like that before just wondering?

 

 

 

The color is ( very normal ) when you mix gas, oil, and condensation. ( I see this with many forums over and over since mid-2006 and watched it run a continuous learning cycle to newcomers )

 

The condensation is more of a product of the catch can than the engine as the internal engine heat evaporates the condensation in minutes. Now when you get to the placement and design of the catch can, that's the true culprit to all the condensation and moisture that builds up in most catch cans today. There's a reason we have so much time in the design and position of our catch can system as we have had to improve the internal coalescing function and oil control to be able to perform better in hotter location to eliminate the need for having to drain and monitor the catch can so frequently.

 

This is the single biggest reason a manufacturer will not install catch cans from the factory. You will notice that we install our system near the header to allow the can to maintain proper operating temperature and greatly reduce the amount of condensation that builds up in the system for less frequent monitoring and maintenance. I personally have worked on improving the catch can function so it would be more user-friendly and require less maintenance.

 

For anyone out there that wants to have less maintenance, you can relocate your catch can system to a warmer location to reduce the frequency and amount of moisture collecting in the system. Also, note that catch can systems with poor coalescing and oil separation properties will not do as well in the hotter locations and that is why so many choose to mount them in the coldest location as it improves the lack of performance in so many catch can designs.

 

We strive for continuous improvement in our internal coalescing properties and oil separation. keeping all our systems modular in design allows us to be able to develop upgrades that can be added to any of our systems as they become available.

 

I know this post was more than just information about condensation. But, I really want everyone to understand the information and knowledge we can share with years of experience and development in oil separation and the true PCV function.

 

Thank you, Joe

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Does UPR make Oil catch cans for Chevy??? I searched yalls stuff and only came up with Mustangs, Fords, F-150 EcoBoost and that's about it. No Chevy or other make and models. Even YouTube is all UPR ford stuff only.

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Does UPR make Oil catch cans for Chevy??? I searched yalls stuff and only came up with Mustangs, Fords, F-150 EcoBoost and that's about it. No Chevy or other make and models. Even YouTube is all UPR ford stuff only.

 

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/195791-upr-catch-can-plug-n-play-with-css-installed/

 

Here is the latest offering for the 5.3L and 6.2L GM trucks.

 

Joe

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Does UPR make Oil catch cans for Chevy??? I searched yalls stuff and only came up with Mustangs, Fords, F-150 EcoBoost and that's about it. No Chevy or other make and models. Even YouTube is all UPR ford stuff only.

http://m.uprproducts.com/chevrolet-gmc-trucks.html

 

I just placed my order through @joeupr here on the forums for this kit and with 2 check valves for $349: http://m.uprproducts.com/chevrolet-gm-billet-oil-catch-can-dual-valve-css-silverado-53-14.html

Edited by AllTerrainX
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Yes, do it. I had the same issue until recently. I was going to change my airbox filter and found a nice pool of oil in the tube and even in the airbox. and a bunch of dried oil on the actual filter. You can hear the surprise in my voice when I open up the airbox haha

 

 

 

Since it has been a while would you mind telling me since your can installation has this stopped? Also do you notice your oil level dropping where you have to add oil to the crankcase at reg intervals? May I ask what was the cost of your set-up? Thanks so much....

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