Custom Trail Boss Console Upgrade?

[Julio13]

Can't remember the exact one, but there's plenty that are ACC. Just grab one of those. BUT! Keep in mind USB QC can draw up to (I think) 5 amps. So make sure you factor that in. I changed the fuse out with one 5 amps larger. 

Do you remember what size hole saw you used


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[Method2Madness]

35 minutes ago, Julio13 said:

Do you remember what size hole saw you used


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I don't. I think I used a stepper bit and just gradually increased until it fit snuggly. If I had to guess I'd say 1 1/4" 

[hfields]

Just purchased a 2019 silverado and had the same suprise with no center console storage.

Does anyone know if a 2014-2018 Silverado LT console can be fitted to the 2019?

Great site for information on these trucks.

 

 

[chevyguy2]

 

Just got a new Silverado LT.  My old one had a full center console, this one doesn't & I miss it.  I found this site & saw that others had this same issue.  I just made my own out of a few pieces of 1/2" & 3/4" plywood I had I had laying around, spray painted it black & it fits & works great for what I want.  Very easy to do.  Assemble pieces with 1-5/8" drywall screws.  The picture shown is very basic.  I added a couple of dividers to mine cause one of the things I always like to carry is a larger water bottle that doesn't fit in the ridiculously small cup holder in the console.  I've got dimensioned drawings it anyone is interested.

[jingram]

Best Price I found for the Console upgrade -   https://www.gmpartswarehouse.com/oem-parts/gm-f-armrest-84756948

[Enough]

On 6/11/2020 at 11:12 AM, chevyguy2 said:

 

Just got a new Silverado LT.  My old one had a full center console, this one doesn't & I miss it.  I found this site & saw that others had this same issue.  I just made my own out of a few pieces of 1/2" & 3/4" plywood I had I had laying around, spray painted it black & it fits & works great for what I want.  Very easy to do.  Assemble pieces with 1-5/8" drywall screws.  The picture shown is very basic.  I added a couple of dividers to mine cause one of the things I always like to carry is a larger water bottle that doesn't fit in the ridiculously small cup holder in the console.  I've got dimensioned drawings it anyone is interested.

Chevyguyy2,

If you don't mind please PM me the dimensional drawings. I swapped the full console into my 2018 LT and sure miss it on my 2018 LT. If I can find a 2020 full console at a reasonable price I will be putting it in my 2020. In the meantime your solution looks like my best best.

 

I also miss the power fold, turn signals, and paddle lamps of the DL3 mirrors I put on my 2018. It amazes me that in this day and time when every cheap vehicle sold now has turn signals on the mirrors Chevy chose to skimp on this feature. The "Task Lighting" on the front of the new mirrors baffles me.

 

Thank yo for sharing your solution !

Edited June 28, 2020 by Enough
content

[chevyguy2]

Here's what I did.  Attached should be 2 photos and 3 PDF's.  If these come across OK there are 3 more PDF's I'll try later

00407.pdf 00408.pdf 00409.pdf

[chevyguy2]

This should give you everything you need.  As you can see I added a couple of separators which you can configure however you want.

00410.pdf 00411.pdf 00412.pdf

[Enough]

22 minutes ago, chevyguy2 said:

This should give you everything you need.  As you can see I added a couple of separators which you can configure however you want.

00410.pdf 298.47 kB · 2 downloads 00411.pdf 309.76 kB · 2 downloads 00412.pdf 300.98 kB · 2 downloads

Thank you for sharing !  

 

The new consoles are a definite step backwards, from the custom models that don't open to the tiny cup holders for beer can sized drinks. 

 

 

[trip]

So figure out the wire diagram for wiring harness for the USB and 12v outlet straight to the fuse box it belongs to. Right fuse box on X1 plug you will add a terminal pin to 6 and 16 you can order a five wire kit for these parts 19332365 and 19332366. For the ground on the back side of right fuse box is x2 with the correct ground you can either re-pin that connector or just tap in to that wire it’s port 1if you decide to re-pin it here is a wire kit to help 19371175

[Railroad_Jim]

On 7/17/2020 at 7:36 PM, trip said:

So figure out the wire diagram for wiring harness for the USB and 12v outlet straight to the fuse box it belongs to. Right fuse box on X1 plug you will add a terminal pin to 6 and 16 you can order a five wire kit for these parts 19332365 and 19332366. For the ground on the back side of right fuse box is x2 with the correct ground you can either re-pin that connector or just tap in to that wire it’s port 1if you decide to re-pin it here is a wire kit to help 19371175

Thanks for looking that up.  The gmupfitter site was down for a few weeks earlier this year when I wanted to look something else, so I never looked for this.

 

But, I have no problem getting +12V and GND from the truck's fuse box, instead it is the connector on the center console / jump seat that I don't know about. 

 

I used my meter to see which wires would be +!2V and GND, but don't know what connector to use. I'm probably too cheap to but the factory connector, but I guess if it was cheap enough I'd consider it.  Otherwise I'll be jamming individual connectors to the two terminals down there....

 

Or did I miss something from your post and some of those parts numbers that you posted were for the side that plugs into the center console / jump seat?

[Patdmania]

Anybody have the part number for the plastic trim?  I put a little crack on the one side.  Thanks

Edited July 23, 2020 by Patdmania

[Biggen]

This project for me has turned into a nightmare of sorts on my 2020 Custom.  The damn bolts are tightened down so much that I ended up stripping one of the bolts that secures the drivers seat and I had to drill it out some in order to get the torx bit to go deep enough to get a better bite.  Then I get the bolt out for the seat belt with no issue, but there is some type of thin metal circular retainer that prevents you from actually removing the seat belt anchor.  I ended up bending that into a tight circle so I could then slip the anchor out and over it.

 

Now I'm trying to remove the two bolts right above the console belt anchor and I got one loose but I stripped the other one again so I'm going to have to drill that one as well to get a better grip.  I don't have an impact wrench.  Is this why I'm having trouble with these bolts?  I'm just using a hand socket.

 

Edit:

Drilling was a no go on the one driver side console Torx bolt above where the lower bet attaches.  I stripped the one and can't get loose.  I mean, I never even got it to break the seal with the socket set.  Its still as tight as the day it came from the factory and its totally stripped now so I'm not sure what I'll do from this point forward.  I've put the truck back together for now.  I may be listing a a new top lid center console on the cheap.

Edited July 26, 2020 by Biggen

[Dunn]

On 4/15/2020 at 3:58 PM, Railroad_Jim said:

That's a great comparison picture there.  Before I bought the replacement center seat for my truck, I was always trying to see if I could discover from the pictures if the console had the storage or not.  Especially when I was looking through the pictures on car - parts . com, where I eventually got my center seat.

 

From this angle, you can really see the difference between the two.  The one on the right, with storage, shows how there is an angle where the cushioned leather part meets the hard plastic front, where the one on the left that doesn't open, meets the hard plastic differently.  The bottom part is really obvious!

 

Thanks for taking the picture, and hopefully it will help others.

idk why they would go thru the trouble of even making 2 different models.. its pretty easy to see the seam and latch on the one with storage.....there is a gap all the way around it whereas its closed on the one that doesn't have storage....you can tell which one opens on bottom and the top lid.....they also look like the height might be different.....but if your not looking for it or dont even know about it probably wouldnt even look twice to see.....lot of peeps got caught off guard and GM got ton of flack for this i imagine

 

no matter in 2021.....all the trucks will have storage for new model year

Edited July 26, 2020 by Dunn

[Benjamin Martin]

Big thanks to all those that provided the part #s, instruction and advice for upgrading this armrest.  Just wanted to share my lessons learned.  I have a 2020 TBC so not sure if there's any diff in the 2019.  First thing I will say is that I needed torx bits 45, 50 and 55 for this job and a 18mm socket.  I know some only said a 50 and 55, but my right side retaining bolt (where the spring is) was a 45.  I also needed the 18mm socket for the left side seat belt anchor bolt.

The install was a bit of a pita for me as it seems there are two ways you could go about replacing this.  I started to follow the document from the SDPC website where you can also buy the armrest from here https://sdparts.com/i-24138922-genuine-gm-parts-84756948-center-console-upgrade-for-2019-2020-silverado-work-truck-models.html and although it was a nice step by step instruction, I feel it takes you in the wrong direction when it comes to the left side (drivers side) steps.  After getting the seat belt anchor bolt out, following their doc it doesn't say to take off the cover and two (torx 55) mounting bolts, instead it tells you to disconnect the latch cable and the two upper bolts, leaving the left side hinge arm in place.  I followed this at first and had such a hard time trying to remove it this way I went to take a look at my new armrest and realized the whole left side hinge was on this one.  So why they tell you to disassemble the armrest in this manner to leave that hinge in is beyond me.

I then went back through and saw what others had done and that was to simply remove the left cover (which comes out easier than the right), remove the two torx55 bolts and voila!

A few things of note.  Take all four bolts out of the drivers seat and move it forward.  I know people said they just loosened the bolts and worked around it but getting the left cover off would be too difficult IMO and it makes it easy to get to the seatbelt anchor bolt.  The seatbelt anchor has a thin metal sleeve once you remove the bolt.  I had the most difficult time removing that in order to get the seat belt out.  Maybe it was the instructions I was following from SDPC because they didn't say to take that cover off.  Their diagram is misleading as it looks like they are saying to remove four bottom bolts for the whole console.  I never did this so don't follow everything in that doc.

Lastly, much the same as everyone else the right side cover needs to be taken off slowly but firm so you dont break any of the plastic tabs.  Fortunately mine were all intact and all I needed were a couple new clips.  I used the 963-211D Doorman clips that I got from Advanced Auto.