USB Box location?

[Plumber101010]

 

Yesterday, 11:28pm

2015 3500 WT Crew 4X4 SRW - Going to be upgrading several things and hard wire all my USB stuff. Surprisingly Google research shows nothing on this subject for having been done this way or location.

Rather then purchase a hardwire kit with a converter step down box, isn’t there a factory one already in the vehicle for the USB port in the center consule I can tie into and where is the location of it, in the console itself? 

Other research shows its only a .5 amp and if so, anyone know if the box in the truck is ONLY .5 output or if it has multiple outputs? If not and factory box is only .5 amps, it’s all a waste of time! Need 2.4.

 

Thinking now probaly easier just to install a 12 V outlet directly to battery and use the standard plug-in adapter and hide it under the dash! LOL

[1SLOW1500]

The factory doesn't use anything that is adaptable exactly. Best to remove side panel on center console and hardwired into the wires on cigarette plug then. Mount the hub to your USB there. Then when you need a different wire you can just plug and play at hub. It take zero tools to get into the side of console. Unless you count yourself as a tool. Haha

[Plumber101010]

1 hour ago, 1SLOW1500 said:

The factory doesn't use anything that is adaptable exactly. Best to remove side panel on center console and hardwired into the wires on cigarette plug then. Mount the hub to your USB there. Then when you need a different wire you can just plug and play at hub. It take zero tools to get into the side of console. Unless you count yourself as a tool. Haha

This is a WT model which has a bench seat and has a different type console so there is no side panel but I can remove all the stuff on top to get to it!  What do you mean by ”HUB”?

 

That would be easy unfortunately I’m not putting any of my USB stuff there   It’s all going to go under the dash somewhere so I’ll have to run it  either to the battery or the fuse panel.

[Crazyjoker77]

2 minutes ago, Plumber101010 said:

This is a WT model which has a bench seat and has a different type console so there is no side panel but I can remove all the stuff on top to get to it!  What do you mean by ”HUB”?

 

That would be easy unfortunately I’m not putting any of my USB stuff there   It’s all going to go under the dash somewhere so I’ll have to run it  either to the battery or the fuse panel.

 

Hes referring to the side panel(s) of the dash where the fuses are.  Its the same in all trucks.

 

The stock USB ports are indeed only .5A each.  My phone charges much slower and barely at all if I'm running google maps or wyze.  Tablet won't charge at all.

 

I've done easily 50 dash cam installs and the cheapest and least painless is usually just tapping into a fuse panel.

 

What all do you have that needs usb 5v?

 

For my install on the truck I did exactly what you mention in your first post.  I went and bought a long 12v power cable and cut the male end off.  and just plugged the 12v-5v usb adapter that came with the truck.  I was dumb and ran my cable down the passenger side but later found out there are no switched 12v sources in the passenger side fuse panel.  Drivers side has a very convenient spot to tap into for switched 12v power.

 

heres the side drivers side fuse panel showing where I tapped into with a inline fuse. (the blue spade connector is where its tapped)  You can also see the bolt on the left that I used for ground. (other blue connector by the weather seal)

 

 

and I simply just tucked the 12v-5v under this trim piece.  I  did'nt even remove it just flex it open and pop it behind.  Its easy to pull back out if you need to.

 

 

When its pushed behind the panel its completely out of sight

 

and a video showing how to pop off the side panels. (obviosuly this is the passenger side but drivers is exactly the same.  First time you remove them you might have to use 2 hands.

 

 

[Plumber101010]

Are you sure that’s the correct video because it’s showing the armrest on the door?  But don’t worry about it I’ve been in that panel many times but THANK you for sending pictures because yes I have always wondered where that 12 V connection is!!!  Nothing like a picture highlighting it  

 

It looks like you have done exactly what I’m talking about doing. When you say switched that means it comes on and off with the ignition key correct?

 

The only difference is I’m going to be running several things so I’m thinking of just getting a port with three outlets.  But I’ll probably run 2 because I  want one to go straight to the battery without the key. Do you know where the other adapter in the fuse panel is for a 12v that’s not switched?  Will stay on all the time?

 

I don’t think the other guy was talking about that the fuse panel I’m pretty sure the other poster was talking about a side panel on the console itself. I went back and read and he mentioned it twice and specifically said on the console??  Maybe there is a panel there?  I know there’s a cigarette plug there which would make sense what he was saying. But doesn’t matter because the way that you showed it is what I was thinking

Edited January 21, 2019 by Plumber101010

[Plumber101010]

23 minutes ago, Crazyjoker77 said:

 

 

 

 

Just showing you the video that’s not showing the fuse panel lol

Edited January 21, 2019 by Plumber101010

[Crazyjoker77]

5 minutes ago, Plumber101010 said:

Are you sure that’s the correct video because it’s showing the armrest on the door?  But don’t worry about it I’ve been in that panel many times but THANK you for sending pictures because yes I have always wondered where that 12 V connection is!!!  Nothing like a picture highlighting it  

 

It looks like you have done exactly what I’m talking about doing. When you say switched that means it comes on and off with the ignition key correct?

 

The only difference is I’m going to be running several things so I’m thinking of just getting a port with three outlets.  But I’ll probably run 2 because I  want one to go straight to the battery without the key. Do you know where the other adapter in the fuse panel is for a 12v that’s not switched?  Will stay on all the time?

 

I don’t think the other guy was talking about that the fuse panel I’m pretty sure the other poster was talking about a side panel on the console itself. I went back and read and he mentioned it twice and specifically said on the console??  Maybe there is a panel there?  I know there’s a cigarette plug there which would make sense what he was saying. But doesn’t matter because the way that you showed it is what I was thinking

 

The video shows how to remove several different trim pieces.

 

Ya switched power is exactly that.  Although GM called it Retained Power (RPO).  It is on when the key is in acc or on positions. It turns off when cranking and stays running for 10min after the vehicle is shut off OR the door is opened.

 

I ran my own power wire from the battery through the firewall into the cab for my constant 12v+ since I was already running a cable for my upftitter switchs install, so I did'nt spend much time poking around looking for constant powers in the fuse box.

 

That purple cartridge fuse beside my spade connector is actually designed to be swapped between the two spots to change how the DASH 12v outlet behaves.  Move it over to the left and the outlet becomes RPO.  The stake on the right that is now unused is straight battery power.(always hot).  If you don't mind losing your center 12v outlet you can simply remove the purple fuse and use a spade on the two outside pins and get both RPO and Constant 12v.  If you don't want to lose dash outlett you could make a little harness with another inline fuse jumping power from either of the outside terminals to the center one.(depending how you want your dash outlet to work).  Or try and locate a cartridge style add a fuse but i had no luck.

 

Every single micro fuse in the PASSENGER side fuse panel is always hot.  A few good candidates to tap with a add a fuse would be:

 

9 Rear seat entertainment

10 Cargo lamp

35 AC inverter

36 Amplifier

 

 

[Plumber101010]

5 minutes ago, Crazyjoker77 said:

 

The video shows how to remove several different trim pieces.

 

Ya switched power is exactly that.  Although GM called it Retained Power (RPO).  It is on when the key is in acc or on positions. It turns off when cranking and stays running for 10min after the vehicle is shut off OR the door is opened.

 

I ran my own power wire from the battery through the firewall into the cab for my constant 12v+ since I was already running a cable for my upftitter switchs install, so I did'nt spend much time poking around looking for constant powers in the fuse box.

 

That purple cartridge fuse beside my spade connector is actually designed to be swapped between the two spots to change how the DASH 12v outlet behaves.  Move it over to the left and the outlet becomes RPO.  The stake on the right that is now unused is straight battery power.(always hot).  If you don't mind losing your center 12v outlet you can simply remove the purple fuse and use a spade on the two outside pins and get both RPO and Constant 12v.  If you don't want to lose dash outlett you could make a little harness with another inline fuse jumping power from either of the outside terminals to the center one.(depending how you want your dash outlet to work).  Or try and locate a cartridge style add a fuse but i had no luck.

 

Every single micro fuse in the PASSENGER side fuse panel is always hot.  A few good candidates to tap with a add a fuse would be:

 

9 Rear seat entertainment

10 Cargo lamp

35 AC inverter

36 Amplifier

 

 

Fantastic information!!!!  Thanks a lot   I’m running tons of stuff in fact I’ve got a 8 rocker switch panel that I’m mounting in the overhead Console in place of the sunglass holder.  I actually started a thread but I kind of goofed up because I had a larger panel and it didn’t look custom. I have a new console on the way with a straight in line 8

Rocker switches panel which is going to look beautiful and look custom made in that console!

 

But I’ve got 9 lights total (4 - 300w bars) so I too am going to be running tons of stuff from the engine compartment so it won’t be a big deal to add one more wire for a straight 12V.

 

But this is good to know when I decide to add something after this project is over without having to worry about going through all the trouble of running a wire straight to the battery!

[avgas]

2 hours ago, Crazyjoker77 said:

The stock USB ports are indeed only .5A each.  My phone charges much slower and barely at all if I'm running google maps or wyze.  Tablet won't charge at all.

I can confirm that the USB ports in my 2017 Sierra are more than 0.5A.  If I have my iPad plugged into the truck it draws almost 1.5 amps. If I have my ipad plugged into the 2A apple charger it draws almost exactly the same current. If you are having trouble with things being charged I would check the cable because its not the truck.

[Crazyjoker77]

23 minutes ago, avgas said:

I can confirm that the USB ports in my 2017 Sierra are more than 0.5A.  If I have my iPad plugged into the truck it draws almost 1.5 amps. If I have my ipad plugged into the 2A apple charger it draws almost exactly the same current. If you are having trouble with things being charged I would check the cable because its not the truck.

Hmm interesting,  knowing chevy it could change depending on which headunit you have.  Could also be that I'm using the USB in the flip up seat and not the ones on the dash or could just be device compatibly issue.

 

Both cables are the ones that came with the device and fast charge when used with the original wall warts.

 

Either way its still way simpler to add new 12v or 5v outlets from the fuse panel than it is trying to tag off the existing usb ports.

[avgas]

Just now, Crazyjoker77 said:

Either way its still way simpler to add new 12v or 5v outlets from the fuse panel than it is trying to tag off the existing usb ports.

Yes its easier to add new outlets for sure. Do yourself a favor and buy something that is good quality. These cheap USB power supplies are a horrible for generating RFI. I have installed this USB outlet in my Jeep and have been very happy with it.

 

https://powerwerx.com/blue-sea-1045-fast-charge-dual-usb-charger-socket-mount

[Plumber101010]

3 hours ago, avgas said:

Yes its easier to add new outlets for sure. Do yourself a favor and buy something that is good quality. These cheap USB power supplies are a horrible for generating RFI. I have installed this USB outlet in my Jeep and have been very happy with it.

 

https://powerwerx.com/blue-sea-1045-fast-charge-dual-usb-charger-socket-mount

Yeah I know mine only puts .5,  but even 1.5 doesn’t satisfy me. But I’ve only got one in the center console, it looks like you’re taking the measurements off the dash area? I don’t have the same style truck as you.  Do you have more than one? If so it could be that one in the console is different.

 

But WOW!!!  I refuse to pay $37 for something I can get much cheaper and as dependable that’s just too pricey for me. Plus they can only be used as a USB port where as a 12 V outlet can double duty for both. 

 

iPhone 8+ and iPad and I use a Dual port 5V 2.4 amp.  They kick ass at charging and charge it up FAST!  I’ve been through dozens and the best in my opinion Is the AUKEY flush fit.  Never had one issue and they are solid.

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00M6QODH2?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image

 

But what made you think I was having issues? I’m not having any problems at all   But I never use the USB port I always use the 12 V outlet with adapter.

Edited January 22, 2019 by Plumber101010

[avgas]

I am not saying your having issues, This forum is for everyone to read. I took a measurement in the center console USB with the same 1.5A result. $37 is worth it if you are running any equipment in your truck that has issues with RFI. I have a ham radio in my Jeep and it picks up noise from the junk USB adapters. If this isn't a problem for you that's fantastic. If someone reading this has issues with RFI and this helps then the forum has done its job. I guess I just like doing jobs once and doing a clean install, Maybe I am too fussy. Good luck with your project! I will be waiting for pictures.

[Plumber101010]

22 hours ago, avgas said:

I am not saying your having issues, This forum is for everyone to read. I took a measurement in the center console USB with the same 1.5A result. $37 is worth it if you are running any equipment in your truck that has issues with RFI. I have a ham radio in my Jeep and it picks up noise from the junk USB adapters. If this isn't a problem for you that's fantastic. If someone reading this has issues with RFI and this helps then the forum has done its job. I guess I just like doing jobs once and doing a clean install, Maybe I am too fussy. Good luck with your project! I will be waiting for pictures.

Be glad to share when complete. So other than the ham radio do you pick up RFI anywhere else?  That’s the first I’ve ever heard of interference from an adapter but it’s also the first I’ve heard of a ham radio! LOL.  Do you get it anywhere else?  Stereo or anything like that?

Edited January 23, 2019 by Plumber101010

[avgas]

RFI causes issues with 2 way radios and car stereos, signal is drowned out by static. FM radio stations that you had no problem hearing will barley tune in. This interference comes from several sources, low quality usb adapters, cheap HID lights, cheap led headlights and cheap led light bars.