DD + occasional towing... 6.2 1500 vs 6.0 2500

AdamZ71 · January 15, 2019

22 hours ago, Kyleorsini said:

BTW hello fellow pegger

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Hey ! Nice to see some other cold friends here!

L86 All Terrain · January 15, 2019

1 hour ago, AdamZ71 said:

Wow I really appreciate what you guys are bringing to me here. I’m still pretty stuck, as both have good pros and cons. The idea of the 6.2 needing premium fuel deffinatly turns me off of it , being in Canada we are generally getting killed at the pumps no matter what. Also the larger tank in the 3/4 ton is more desirable . I think I will need to drive and possibly tow with a 6.0 to weight out the power issue I am can’t get past. Does the 4.10 make that big of a difference to make up for almost 85 ft lbs?

i deffinatly like the idea of the 3/4 ton, and the 6.0 is a pretty proven engine that would be easy to work on down the road.

this upgrade if it goes through I would plan on keeping for the next 6-10 years (I say that now anyway)

the once every year or two I would be towing long haul (1000+ kms each way) the rest of the time our trips are generally within a few hours of home (1-300 kms each way)

I am just across the border in Ontario and we pay at least $0.10/L more than Wpg at all times. Given that, I will tell you my 2500 will drain its larger gas tank faster than my 6.2L will. I have a 2014 5.3L as well, it has the 6L80e and gets about the same mileage as my 6.2L, at the pumps I pay on average $8 more to fill the 6.2L with 91/93. I fill around 10 days so it costs me less than $1 a day more to drive the 6.2L (not factoring the $2500 option). The 8L90e on the 6.2L does most of the gearing for you so it is less dependant on a high final drive ratio, so a 3.23 to a 3.42 is not a big jump when comparing to an old 4 speed trans. There is no question which truck feels more powerful, laden or empty. I drive my 2500 to the Peg to pick up parts for work all the time and it is absolutely brutal on gas in the city. A 6.2L would have no issues doing what you asking, especially towing through the prairies to BC. I would say drive both, pull your trailer on a test run with both, then decide which one would be easier to live with the 95% of the time you are not towing. I daily my 2500 in the winter and put my 6.2L in the garage, I miss it every day I drive that 2500.

Snowcamo · January 15, 2019

The 6.0 is a LS motor.

Ah so it's the same ole bullet proof poweradder thirsty block...figures

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Kyleorsini · January 15, 2019

I do believe you can run 87 in the 6.2 it just won't achieve optimal numbers. But I could be wrong.

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miker2702 · January 16, 2019

6 hours ago, AdamZ71 said:

Wow I really appreciate what you guys are bringing to me here. I’m still pretty stuck, as both have good pros and cons. The idea of the 6.2 needing premium fuel deffinatly turns me off of it , being in Canada we are generally getting killed at the pumps no matter what. Also the larger tank in the 3/4 ton is more desirable . I think I will need to drive and possibly tow with a 6.0 to weight out the power issue I am can’t get past. Does the 4.10 make that big of a difference to make up for almost 85 ft lbs?

i deffinatly like the idea of the 3/4 ton, and the 6.0 is a pretty proven engine that would be easy to work on down the road.

this upgrade if it goes through I would plan on keeping for the next 6-10 years (I say that now anyway)

the once every year or two I would be towing long haul (1000+ kms each way) the rest of the time our trips are generally within a few hours of home (1-300 kms each way)

Yes 4.10 makes big difference. Would like to put in this 1500 would have to help garbage transmission

swathdiver · January 16, 2019

4 hours ago, Kyleorsini said:

I do believe you can run 87 in the 6.2 it just won't achieve optimal numbers. But I could be wrong.

It'll knock while cruising running pure 87. With E10 87 it might not knock while cruising but sure would protest with the throttle opened up. It's got 11:1 compression, it needs the good stuff.

Another reason for the venerable 2500 and the bullet proof L96/6L90!

Pearl2017 · January 16, 2019

the 6.2 with a trifecta tune can run regular gas and not lose much performance due to knock. Payload of a 1500 can be increased by adding helper springs or IMO a better option airbags. I lowered/leveled the back ~2" so once the trailer is hitched I air up to original leveled ride height. So @ ~60PSI they neutralize my trailers tongue weight and so restore full payload and it rides like a dream. The airbags aired down for no load and the truck rides great for dd.

truckguy82 · January 16, 2019

Imo- I think a 1500 with air bags and bilsteins would tow just as well as a 2500 6.0.

I think the main difference between the two is the drivetrain, suspension, balls joints, everything is built to last longer in the 2500. It’s simply designed to handle the stresses of towing and work duties at the expense of gas mileage, comfort, turning radius, fun, etc etc.

The 6.2 1500 will be far superior to drive unloaded.

BB68 · January 16, 2019

18 hours ago, Kyleorsini said:

I do believe you can run 87 in the 6.2 it just won't achieve optimal numbers. But I could be wrong.

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I have been running 87 in mine just to see. I have not felt, heard any difference. I think I would have to take to the drag strip and compare time slips to see if there is any.

Edited January 16, 2019 by BB68

gmckenzie · January 16, 2019

A few things. For comparison, I have a 2015 Sierra with the Max tow (5.3L and 3.73 rear) and a payload of 2015 (per the door jam). Crew cab. I live in the Okanagan (born in winterpeg). My trailer is 35 ft and 8,200 lbs loaded (I've scaled it). I am at my max on payload for the truck. I would not tow heavier regardless of 5.3 or 6.2.

Ignore towing capacity and focus on payload.

Ignore the brochure tongue weight for your trailer as a complete and utter fabrication. Use 12.5% of the fully loaded weight to figure out out the payload hit from the trailer. So 6700 X 12.5% ~850 lbs. I've weighed my tongue on a scale (closed and no trucks around so I spent an hour weighing every conceivable thing). Mine weighed at 1048, so slightly more than the 12.5%, but under 13%. With that, my WD hitch (get an equal-i-zer 4 point or similar, you will love it vs the normal one) and some gear in the back, I hit the 2000 lbs easily.

I've been to Banff etc. and yeah, there were times I couldn't do the speed limit up the hills. Plus my set up porpoises more than I like, but I've added Sumo Springs which made a big difference. The worst road is from Jasper to Banff.

I'd like a bit more power, but don't want a 3/4 ton for some of the reasons mentioned above. If they put the 6.2L in the 3/4 ton, I'd be serious about trading up, but not for the 6.0L. I know it's a good motor and reliable, I just don't like that it's older tech and kinda sucks for HP.

For daily driving, the 5.3L is good enough and I don't have to spend the extra on premium, so I just put mid grade in it when towing and live with going a bit slower. Had a Duramax before, so yeah it annoys me but I'm getting over it.

But I would defiantly get the Max Tow. I doubt you would have enough payload otherwise.

KozzyJr · January 16, 2019

I use to tow with a 1500 6.2. Hp and torque are one thing. It’s the weight of the truck to think about also. Our enclosed trailer is 4000lbs and with our car inside is almost 8000lbs. One or two emergency stops convinced me to upgrade to a 2500, and I couldn’t be happier. It takes weight to stop weight also. Even tho my old 6.2 with the max towing could pull it no problem slowing down was another. Just food for though. If you can swing it diesels are aowsome rigs. No regrets here

L86 All Terrain · January 16, 2019

I have filled up with 87 about 5 times with my 6.2L with no easily-noticeable knock or loss of performance/mileage. You ECM will retard the ignition timing for the less potent gasoline. It is a 11.5:1 compression ratio, so I recommend premium or at least midgrade on a daily basis. But in a pinch it will not hurt the engine. It costs me $8 more to fill after roughly 10 days with premium in Canada, so less than $1/day more. If you can afford a $60,000 truck, the fuel difference is not a concern. You will burn much, much more gas living with a 6L 2500 on a daily basis vs. a 6.2L 1500. 12mpg for 2500 vs. 17mpg for 1500. If you drive 15,000m a year, you are going to use 1250gal with a 2500 and 880gal with a 1500. At my current pump price, that is a $1,776 saving, about a $1,615 saving when you factor in the price of 91 over 87 octane.

truckguy82 · January 16, 2019

4 hours ago, KozzyJr said:

I use to tow with a 1500 6.2. Hp and torque are one thing. It’s the weight of the truck to think about also. Our enclosed trailer is 4000lbs and with our car inside is almost 8000lbs. One or two emergency stops convinced me to upgrade to a 2500, and I couldn’t be happier. It takes weight to stop weight also. Even tho my old 6.2 with the max towing could pull it no problem slowing down was another. Just food for though. If you can swing it diesels are aowsome rigs. No regrets here

With a brake controller and trailer brakes every single pound of your truck and trailer has rubber on the road and brakes for that rubber. The weight of the truck will not effect stopping distances if your trailer brakes are setup correctly, and your trailer doesn’t have complete crap tires.

There are a lot of factors, and a yes heavier tow vehicle is better. I’m mainly just pointing out that it doesnt “take weight to stop weight.” Welding a 500lb steel plate to your 1500 isn’t going to make it stop the trailer faster.

KozzyJr · January 16, 2019

2 hours ago, truckguy82 said:

With a brake controller and trailer brakes every single pound of your truck and trailer has rubber on the road and brakes for that rubber. The weight of the truck will not effect stopping distances if your trailer brakes are setup correctly, and your trailer doesn’t have complete crap tires.

There are a lot of factors, and a yes heavier tow vehicle is better. I’m mainly just pointing out that it doesnt “take weight to stop weight.” Welding a 500lb steel plate to your 1500 isn’t going to make it stop the trailer faster.

I beg to differ that a heavier truck doesn’t stop weight faster and easier. You have more weight on all 4 tires giving you more friction/grip. Allowing you to slow down quicker. Take that 1500 you mention speed up to 50 mph, the coast to a stop. The truck with 500lbs in the bed will stop before the unloaded truck. Yes I do agree with you with properly setup trailer brakes will help for the most part. But a heavy enough trailer/load will push a truck.Been pulling trailers for over 40 years. And I can tell you my 2500 stop my dump trailer at 9000 lbs enter then my son’s1500.

Edited January 17, 2019 by KozzyJr