Wiring help - cargo light circuit from rear junction block X63

[aseibel]

I'm looking for help some help from you wiring experts out there.

 

I have used wiring diagrams to locate what I think is the cargo light circuit. (yet to confirm since I don't have my wire tester)

On the rear lighting junction box (behind the rear bumper) I see the X6 connector on the far right side of this pic:

 

I believe the red wire in pin location # 4 is the cargo lights, which then spits and runs to each side of the bed.

 

My question is this: can I somehow tap into that pin with a new wire to power my aux backup lights? I know I could just use something like a T-tap connector, but I'm hoping not to damage any existing wires (and insulation) since I want to keep this truck for a long time and it sees all kinds of weather.

 

I would like to connect into the cargo/bed light circuit so that I can control it with the switch in the cab. I know that when "on" those lights turn on in reverse, which would be perfect for back-up lights.

 

If anyone has a better idea for how to connect to the circuit with a permanent and weatherproof connection, please let me know.

[xMEATxHAMMERx]

If you are trying to tap into the reverse lights, use the center wire on the trailer light connector next to the license plate. That's where I tapped into my reverse lights for my light bar on the back of my truck.

And as always... Enjoy your ride!

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

[xMEATxHAMMERx]

Then put the diode in under the dash and you will control the bed lights with your key fob, and all reverse/cargo lights will come on when in reverse.

And as always... Enjoy your ride!

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

[aseibel]

13 hours ago, xMEATxHAMMERx said:

If you are trying to tap into the reverse lights, use the center wire on the trailer light connector next to the license plate. That's where I tapped into my reverse lights for my light bar on the back of my truck.

I realize the reverse light circuit would also be an option. But I don't need my new lights to go on every time I back up. Thus I like the cargo light circuit which is controlled by an existing switch. But you didn't answer my main question, which is HOW did you connect to that wire? a T-tap?

13 hours ago, xMEATxHAMMERx said:

Then put the diode in under the dash and you will control the bed lights with your key fob, and all reverse/cargo lights will come on when in reverse.

This statement I am intrigued by. What do you mean "control by key fob"? I think that means when I unlock the doors, they would turn on for a few seconds? But I still have the same situation of all lights turning on every time I back up, which I don't need. I'd rather run a new wire from a 3 way switch. But I'm trying to avoid running new wires with switches into the cab.

Edited December 28, 2018 by aseibel

[gmckenzie]

I'm thinking of doing the same thing. I have some small lights in my Amazon cart that will fit in the rear bumper footwell, but not be in the way of using it and want them controlled by the cargo lights. I want them more for hooking up a trailer in the dark and don't need them on all the time I reverse so not looking to have them work with the reverse lights. If I need them, I can hit the cargo light switch easily enough.

 

If you don't want to use a t-connector, the break out the soldering gun. Either way, I use Liquid Electrical Tape on the connection and wrap with actual tape. I've got no issue coating a t-connector with the stuff.

 

I don't think you can get a second wire into the actual connector, if that's what you're looking to do.

 

BTW, thanks for pointing out which wire it is. Saves me searching later.

[newdude]

Pin 4 is Exterior Courtesy Lamp Supply Voltage (power) and pin 7 is Ground. 

 

Being you have a 2015, when you press the cargo lamp button, does it say "cargo lamps enabled/disabled" in the DIC?  If so, enable them and have someone check to see if the bed cargo lights come on in reverse.  If they do, then it would be possible to tie into that and it function the way you want it to.  If it doesn't, you could still tie in and then do the diode mod and they will come on in reverse. 

[xMEATxHAMMERx]

I realize the reverse light circuit would also be an option. But I don't need my new lights to go on every time I back up. Thus I like the cargo light circuit which is controlled by an existing switch. But you didn't answer my main question, which is HOW did you connect to that wire? a T-tap?

I was taught how to tap into wires by an old mechanic when I worked in a garage as a mechanic. This method is full proof.

Use your wire strippers and cut the sheath where you plan to tap in. Do it as if you plan to strip the wire, but you obviously can't strip it. Make 3 or 4 similar cuts all within about a 1/4 inch. Doing this allows you to expose a small section of the wire.

Next you use a pointed tool, I use a pick, and make and eye through the middle of the exposed piece of wire.

Now take the wire you plan to attach to it, and strip about 3 inches off the end.

Feed it all the way through the hole, and wrap it up and around it's self, then wrap the rest around the wire you tapped into. Tape it down in the direction of the wire, and tape a few inches passed in each direction.

And as always... Enjoy your ride!

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

[xMEATxHAMMERx]

I'm thinking of doing the same thing. I have some small lights in my Amazon cart that will fit in the rear bumper footwell, but not be in the way of using it and want them controlled by the cargo lights. I want them more for hooking up a trailer in the dark and don't need them on all the time I reverse so not looking to have them work with the reverse lights. If I need them, I can hit the cargo light switch easily enough.
 
If you don't want to use a t-connector, the break out the soldering gun. Either way, I use Liquid Electrical Tape on the connection and wrap with actual tape. I've got no issue coating a t-connector with the stuff.
 
I don't think you can get a second wire into the actual connector, if that's what you're looking to do.
 
BTW, thanks for pointing out which wire it is. Saves me searching later.

You may want to double check, but I believe as soon as you shift out of park or neutral, your cargos shut off. I tried finding a work around but it was too much work.

And as always... Enjoy your ride!

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

[gmckenzie]

I'll double check, but I'm pretty sure my Cargo lights will stay on in reverse. They go off in drive.

[gmckenzie]

6 minutes ago, xMEATxHAMMERx said:

 

 

I was taught how to tap into wires by an old mechanic when I worked in a garage as a mechanic. This method is full proof.

Use your wire strippers and cut the sheath where you plan to tap in. Do it as if you plan to strip the wire, but you obviously can't strip it. Make 3 or 4 similar cuts all within about a 1/4 inch. Doing this allows you to expose a small section of the wire.

Next you use a pointed tool, I use a pick, and make and eye through the middle of the exposed piece of wire.

Now take the wire you plan to attach to it, and strip about 3 inches off the end.

Feed it all the way through the hole, and wrap it up and around it's self, then wrap the rest around the wire you tapped into. Tape it down in the direction of the wire, and tape a few inches passed in each direction.

And as always... Enjoy your ride!

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 

This is similar to what I do.

I'll split the wire I'm attaching into two strands, put them through the hole I made and wrap them around the first wire and then around themselves. (not sure that makes sense writing it out).

I may or may not solder at that point. Kinda depends on if I find the gun or not.

Then I coatt it in the liquid stuff before taping. Really protects the join better. Wrap with tape and it will never go wrong.

[diyer2]

I strip a piece of insulation off.

Wrap the splice wire around the bare wire and always solder the connection.

Wrap with 3M electrical tape and seal with liquid tape.

[aseibel]

I like this splice method better than the T-tap.

 

Looks like I need to go buy some liquid electrical tape.

I have a soldering iron somewhere.... need to dig into the storage for that.

[diyer2]

I have never had an electrical failure using my method.

On the ATV I used this method for the hot wire for a plow winch.

Washing it, rough trail riding, vibrations, water, etc. has not affected it.

 

[aseibel]

I searched my storage for my soldering iron, but I couldn't locate it. So I asked my dad if I could borrow his. He comes back and says, here's the iron with some "good" solder. Its the 40% lead stuff that you can't buy anymore. haha.

 

Thought you might appreciate that. I got the next 2 days off work, so I'm going to see what I can do with my new lights.

 

[aseibel]

Installation is complete. I have added photos to my gallery.

 

These lights are pretty bright, but not ridiculous. I would estimate that I now have 4x the amount of light compared to the LED bulbs I had in the reverse housings. I'm pretty happy with the install, the wires are all secured inside the bumper area with nothing really exposed to possible damage.