Anyone start tearing down a 2019 to install sound system?

[WhineyTTwins]

7 hours ago, DanHc said:

Finally got my 2 JL audio 10w7 installed they freaking pound and sound great I’ll be posting a pic soon.

How the hell did you get that mounted? I have been trying to change out my subs but have gotten a lot of pushback due to mounting depths. 6" appears to be what fabricators are calling max mounting depth before needing a seat lift and the W7's are at 8" of mounting depth plus almost another inch for excursion. Did you end up having to do a seat lift? Need details!

[Lyons00]

I know this post wasn't for me.  Check out JL Audio Stealthbox.  Made for the 2019 Silverado.  Sorry didn't want to be rude 

[DanHc]

2 hours ago, Ericruiz911 said:

How the hell did you get that mounted? I have been trying to change out my subs but have gotten a lot of pushback due to mounting depths. 6" appears to be what fabricators are calling max mounting depth before needing a seat lift and the W7's are at 8" of mounting depth plus almost another inch for excursion. Did you end up having to do a seat lift? Need details!

That is true but me I didn’t care if the box stuck out to the front of the seat instead of being flushed with the seats so the way my box is it pokes out to the front around 1.5 inches and no seat lift. 

[WhineyTTwins]

16 hours ago, DanHc said:

That is true but me I didn’t care if the box stuck out to the front of the seat instead of being flushed with the seats so the way my box is it pokes out to the front around 1.5 inches and no seat lift. 

Pm'ed lol got me interested 

[PabloK]

guys with the JL S Box...

 

I have 2 huskies, that i plan on have ride in the back seat with it flipped up.. {they are too big to just sit on the bench...)

 

does the box really prohibit a nice flat area in the back for them to chill?

[Chris walker]

I fiber glassed my own enclosure for the AT4. I learned a lot of useful information if anyone else decides to glass a box in the new series of trucks. I've included a list of materials, goals, lessons learned, financials, etc ...

Materials used -
New series of L7 8 inch shallow mount solabaric woofer L7T82)  (DVC 2 ohm wired in Parallel for 1ohm rating at amp)

Kicker CXA400.1 (rated 500 watts RMS mono for 1 ohm stable)

US composites -1 1/2 inch chop mat
US composites - 404 high temp polyester resin

Dark gray carpet (local audio shop)
LLJ customs Bose adapter

KnuConcepts wiring
Polyfill for box

3m 90 spray adhesive

3m tape

Gray fleece from Walmart 

Dozen cheap paintbrushes - Epoxy cup (Home Depot)
 

Goals

Goal #1 - enclosure needed .56 feet of airspace (16 liters of water)
Goal# 2 - Enclosure would use stock storage bin in the AT4
Goal #3  -enclosure was designed and built so Jack could remain in storage

Goal #4 - 6 layers of 1 1/2 chop to ensure rigidity 

Goal #5 =Would withstand a water tight test

Lessons learned
Lesson learned #1 - There is VERY little room at the back of the seat. 

Lesson learned #2 - Bose amp is behind the seat. There is a great youtube video to show seat removal
Lesson reminded #3- Fiberglass is easy to lay. Anyone can do it but requires patience. If you plan to glass in your own box you need a white painting suit, gloves and a RESPIRATOR not a dusk mask
Lesson learned #4  - I would have taken the storage bin OUT of the car prior to my first glass-in. I could have dont just as good of job outside of the car. The car stunk for a week after the in-cab glass-in.
Lesson learned #5 - The LLJ custom adapter is top notch. It comes with a nice RCA level that has a clipping indicator that makes it easy to set your amp gain.

Final lesson - The enclosure kicks like a mule. I have everything turned down.  When I had it tuned up the one 8 inch woofer (with appropriate airspace/power) was extremely loud (shaking windows inside the cab).  I would imagine Im between 133-135 dbs.  I have no clue how some people are dropping two tens and staying inside the cab of the truck while the music is playing. 

 

 I would NOT use the storage enclosure if I had to start over. My life would have been much easier if I just used MDF to create a frame and then fiberglassed the top with two tier rings.

 

 

Financials - 

Amp - $200
Speaker/Sub - $180

Fiberglass/resin - $100

Carpet - $30

HomeDepot supplies (Paintbrushes/3m/3m tape/epoxy cubs) - $50

Speaker wiring - $60

LLJ Custom Bose wiring harness - $145

Total - $765

 

Man hours - Approximately 15

 

 

 

 

 

Edited July 3, 2019 by Chris walker

[OnTheReel]

Nice work @Chris walker 

[Ronjongreen]

10 hours ago, Chris walker said:

I fiber glassed my own enclosure for the AT4. I learned a lot of useful information if anyone else decides to glass a box in the new series of trucks. I've included a list of materials, goals, lessons learned, financials, etc ...

Materials used -
New series of L7 8 inch shallow mount solabaric woofer L7T82)  (DVC 2 ohm wired in Parallel for 1ohm rating at amp)

Kicker CXA400.1 (rated 500 watts RMS mono for 1 ohm stable)

US composites -1 1/2 inch chop mat
US composites - 404 high temp polyester resin

Dark gray carpet (local audio shop)
LLJ customs Bose adapter

KnuConcepts wiring
Polyfill for box

3m 90 spray adhesive

3m tape

Gray fleece from Walmart 

Dozen cheap paintbrushes - Epoxy cup (Home Depot)
 

Goals

Goal #1 - enclosure needed .56 feet of airspace (16 liters of water)
Goal# 2 - Enclosure would use stock storage bin in the AT4
Goal #3  -enclosure was designed and built so Jack could remain in storage

Goal #4 - 6 layers of 1 1/2 chop to ensure rigidity 

Goal #5 =Would withstand a water tight test

Lessons learned
Lesson learned #1 - There is VERY little room at the back of the seat. 

Lesson learned #2 - Bose amp is behind the seat. There is a great youtube video to show seat removal
Lesson reminded #3- Fiberglass is easy to lay. Anyone can do it but requires patience. If you plan to glass in your own box you need a white painting suit, gloves and a RESPIRATOR not a dusk mask
Lesson learned #4  - I would have taken the storage bin OUT of the car prior to my first glass-in. I could have dont just as good of job outside of the car. The car stunk for a week after the in-cab glass-in.
Lesson learned #5 - The LLJ custom adapter is top notch. It comes with a nice RCA level that has a clipping indicator that makes it easy to set your amp gain.

Final lesson - The enclosure kicks like a mule. I have the gain down and the boost down. When I had it turned up the one 8 inch woofer (with appropriate airspace/power) was extremely loud (shaking windows inside the cab).  I would imagine Im between 133-135 dbs.  I have no clue how some people are dropping two tens and staying inside the cab of the truck while the music is playing. 

 

 I would NOT use the storage enclosure if I had to start over. My life would have been much easier if I just used MDF to create a frame and then fiberglassed the top with two tier rings.

 

 

Financials - 

Amp - $200
Speaker/Sub - $180

Fiberglass/resin - $100

Carpet - $30

HomeDepot supplies (Paintbrushes/3m/3m tape/epoxy cubs) - $50

Speaker wiring - $60

LLJ Custom Bose wiring harness - $145

Total - $765

 

Man hours - Approximately 15

 

 

 

 

 

Chris,

 

Great work...appreciate you posting your install thoughts.  I’m getting ready to use the LLJ harness (once it’s shipped) for my 2019 Sierra Denali.  I saw a video they posted where they tapped into the signal under the passenger side dash.  For your truck ( and I’m assuming mine) did you use the harness at the Bose amp that you said was behind the rear seat?  I plan on using a JL fix 86 and not the lc7 that LLJ would have sold with the harness.  I need to find that YouTube video you mentioned about removing the rear seat if that’s where I need to connect the harness .

 

Ron

Edited July 3, 2019 by Ronjongreen
Wording

[Chris walker]

15 hours ago, Ronjongreen said:

Chris,

 

Great work...appreciate you posting your install thoughts.  I’m getting ready to use the LLJ harness (once it’s shipped) for my 2019 Sierra Denali.  I saw a video they posted where they tapped into the signal under the passenger side dash.  For your truck ( and I’m assuming mine) did you use the harness at the Bose amp that you said was behind the rear seat?  I plan on using a JL fix 86 and not the lc7 that LLJ would have sold with the harness.  I need to find that YouTube video you mentioned about removing the rear seat if that’s where I need to connect the harness .

 

Ron

Ron,

 

You are correct. The Bose amp is behind the rear seat and that is where you will connect for the AT4 and the Denali. The non Bose system connection is at the firewall (you will not use this connection).  The Bose amp is silver and has fins/heat sink. Its the only thing behind the seat that has "fins/heat sinks"  The Bose amp is in the middle of the cab (Pictures below). You will plug into the top connection on the Bose amp (Pictures below - Please validate with LLJ for your specific connector as your may be different).



Advice for removing the rear seat:

 

1)There are three "retainer" mechanisms to remove the rear seat back rest. The release for the mechanism is a hook that you have to lift up on. The left mechanism can easily be lifted up with a screw driver. The center and right mechanism  require wire to loop around the hook and lift up.. The documentation state you need a hook tool but a screw driver and a piece of wire is all I needed. You need to put something between the seat and the back of the cab so the latches dont reconnect.

 

2)You need a LONG extension bit (9-10 inches long) with a 10mm socket to remove the 4 lean back bolts under the seat. I used a 6 inch extension with a 4 inch extension and it was barely long enough. The bolts were fairly easy to remove. The direction say 6inches but that wasnt long enough for me.

 

3) The head rest and head rest "spikes" are fairly easy to remove. You have to use a screw driver to push in a release tab with one hand and then apply firm pressure and lift up with the other hand. To see the release tab you have to push down pretty hard on the leather.

 

4) I recommend you put down a blanket on the bottom seat. This allows you to lay the back of the seat down and then slide it out the door. Be careful when removing the seat there are tabs on the bottom of the seat are metal and a little bit sharp. These tabs are where you removed the 10mm bolts. When you pull the seat out you dont want the metal tabs to scratch the plastic on the side of the doors. The back of the seat is also surprisingly heavy so be careful. You do not have to remove the seat but it makes life easy and gives you a place to sit if you need to tune/set amp gains.

The written instructions give the full seat removal but the video shows you "how" to remove the seat. The video does not show the release mechanism and it doesnt give you as good of an explanation of the head rest spikes as the documentation so you need both resources. 

 

https://katzkinvrs.com/_manage_/res/marketing/Technical Bulletin - 2019 Chevy Silverado Rear Seat Removal.pdf

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bose Amp

 

 

 

Top connection  - (Please validate plug location with LLJ as a safety measure)

 

 

 

Once you have it connected its VERY important to set the gains safely. You may already know how to do this procedure but if you dont It takes about thirty minutes and its well worth your time to protect your investment! If you set your gains incorrectly you will clip and your drivers will pay the price.

 

I've provided two links below for a detailed explanation.  You set the line output converter first and then the amp. The amp settings require a multi-meter and test tones. You can find the test tones on spotify if you search "frequency test tones" and its in the play list. The only expenditure to set your gains safely is a few dollar multi-meter from harbor freight or northern tool.

 

 If you already know about gain setting please dont let the information I provided insult you or your intelligence. Someone else might read the post in the future and need the information.

 

 

Step 1 - Setting the line output converter

 

https://www.audiocontrol.com/knowledge-base/set-levels-line-converterprocessoreqcrossover/

 

 

Step 2 - Setting AMP gains

 

http://www.carforum.net/audio/9580-pioneerislouds-gain-setting-tutorial.html

 

https://www.the12volt.com/ohm/ohms-law-calculators.asp

 

 

*There are better and more effective methods for setting gains but it will require the expenditure of a few hundred dollars in tools.(SMD DD1 Distortion detection). You will gain "inches" and not "miles" with an expensive distortion detection tool. If you've got money to blow - go for it. The above ^^ is a safe method to set your gains, however.

Edited July 3, 2019 by Chris walker

[Ronjongreen]

Chris,

 

Thanks for all the info...you definitely helped me and hopefully many others.  I wish NAV-TV would update their M650-GM for the 2019s.  I have one and used it in my Camaro ZL1 1LE and it worked great.  No need for line out converters.  

 

Ron

[Zelas]

I Finally finished up the System In my Silverado. I thought I would put up some Pictures. I replaced that little Battery and Put in a X2 Power AGM battery instead. Also Put in a little Speaker and amp in

 

 

.

[Zelas]

I Used all JL Audio Equipment and cables.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/gxdomztt0g3s1rl/20190618_185126.jpg?dl=0

Edited July 8, 2019 by Zelas

[96TL]

Hey.

 

Where are you guys getting a remote turn on signal from?

 

AT4 with Bose

 

Thanks. 

[96TL]

Also, it sounds like it’s not possible to mount an amp on the rear cab wall anymore? Is under the front seats the only option now? Thanks. 

[Zelas]

I used the JL Audio Fix 82 to fix the factory radio sound. It has signal sensing and turns on the amps. There is a a fuse box on passanger side dash that you can to get ign wire to rurn on amps. 

 

In My Custom WT model had plenty of room to put the amps on the rear wall. I removed some of the foam and went in with no problems. I put all of my equipment there.