Lakewood Traction Bars on a 2014-2018 1500

[2017Sierra1500]

Has anybody besides this guy ever used a universal set of lakewoods for traction bars? Or am I better off with a fixed set like BDS makes? 

 

Part # 22026

Heres the link I’m referring to: 

 

 

I’d like to try them just because of the price difference and the old school look. My truck is 17 Sierra 5.3 with a 6.5” zone, 37” tires, 4.88 gears, and soon to have a TSP cam and 3200 stall Circle D Converter. Thanks in Advance.

[1SLOW1500]

Please dont do that. My head hurts just seeing it. 

So many things wrong with that. 

[2017Sierra1500]

Lol why do you say that?

[KARNUT]

I had traction bars on a couple of novas to stop wheel hop. I had a few high horse power trucks, never needed traction bars. I’ve always been bang for the buck, if it makes it faster I’m in.


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[1SLOW1500]

The pure idea behind traction bars and physics of it.

1- distance the stop is off a solid surface= a ton of axle wrap or pinon defection, and at continually changing angles. 

2- length of the bars look like they hit the over load leak 

3- front mount needs to be solid (look at caltrac or SRC assassin bars)  But the whole point is to control IC or move IC. 

Lifted truck run Longer bars that go to the frame rail under the door. Reason why is IC. the bar is a imaginary line that goes out through the truck so on lifted that axle is so low and the forward point is mid leaf so IC is like back window of truck. And IC is the weight and length of the "lever bar" on the axle. On the stock height or lowered trucks with Caltrac firewall to engine. SRC is front bumper or past. 

The lake woods are old out dated tech and also had more to do with axle wrap and stiffening up the leafs under load. Traction bars do way more that just that. 

[Grumpy Bear]

30 minutes ago, 2017Sierra1500 said:

Lol why do you say that?

He's saying that because the strike point is at the end of the helper spring which is an inch off the main pack and only half way up the springs length. Preload is set about a mile off. That's a traction 'unloader' 

 

Right idea, wrong method. IF you want' to run a slapper bar remove the helper spring and lengthen the bar to strike at or just behind the front mount. 

[2017Sierra1500]

Okay lol I figured it wouldn’t work as well. I just found it interesting to see someone put old technology on a new truck. 

[2017Sierra1500]

28 minutes ago, 1SLOW1500 said:

The pure idea behind traction bars and physics of it.

1- distance the stop is off a solid surface= a ton of axle wrap or pinon defection, and at continually changing angles. 

2- length of the bars look like they hit the over load leak 

3- front mount needs to be solid (look at caltrac or SRC assassin bars)  But the whole point is to control IC or move IC. 

Lifted truck run Longer bars that go to the frame rail under the door. Reason why is IC. the bar is a imaginary line that goes out through the truck so on lifted that axle is so low and the forward point is mid leaf so IC is like back window of truck. And IC is the weight and length of the "lever bar" on the axle. On the stock height or lowered trucks with Caltrac firewall to engine. SRC is front bumper or past. 

The lake woods are old out dated tech and also had more to do with axle wrap and stiffening up the leafs under load. Traction bars do way more that just that. 

With Lakewoods out of the question, which bars do you reccomend for my application? The fixed bds look to be well built, the rough country version has heim joints that generally don’t last in dirt and I’m not familiar with the caltrac version. 

[Nasty]

Are you stock height?

[2017Sierra1500]

2 minutes ago, Nasty said:

Are you stock height?

6.5” lift and 37” tires.

[1SLOW1500]

yeah with your lift BDS are good. You could just take them to a fab shop and in minutes have teh ends cut off and weld in a threaded end with a boot.

 

[2017Sierra1500]

 

27 minutes ago, 1SLOW1500 said:

yeah with your lift BDS are good. You could just take them to a fab shop and in minutes have teh ends cut off and weld in a threaded end with a boot.

 

Whats the advantage of a theeaded end? I know adjustability, but once they’re on they won’t need to be adjusted 

[1SLOW1500]

Advantage is 

1-weight not that it matters on huge truck but still

2- binding. with these and the spacers the bar can rotate with the twist of the suspension also not rub on the inside edge of the mounting brackets

3- don't need any service or grease. unlike the poly or rubber units (see binding issue in above)

4-you can add more pre load. 

5- easy to replace. one bolt drop out unscrew and reinstall vs pressing out the poly/rubber. 

6- no grease or areas for dirt to get in and damage 

7 no possible noise in time from mount 

 

It isn't a needed upgrade but is much nicer.  

[2017Sierra1500]

4 minutes ago, 1SLOW1500 said:

Advantage is 

1-weight not that it matters on huge truck but still

2- binding. with these and the spacers the bar can rotate with the twist of the suspension also not rub on the inside edge of the mounting brackets

3- don't need any service or grease. unlike the poly or rubber units (see binding issue in above)

4-you can add more pre load. 

5- easy to replace. one bolt drop out unscrew and reinstall vs pressing out the poly/rubber. 

6- no grease or areas for dirt to get in and damage 

7 no possible noise in time from mount 

 

It isn't a needed upgrade but is much nicer.  

Thanks so much for your help. With that being said would I just be better off going with the rough country version? 

 

https://www.roughcountry.com/gm-traction-bar-kit-1069.html

[1SLOW1500]

Still has the rear joint you are concerned about dirt and such with but the front is a adjustable rod end. I believe the rough country piece is nicer. Reason why is the BDS shows a slip joint in the rear with a grease fitting. I personally don't like the slip bar and again the idea of dirt in the grease. 

 

I would buy the RC unit and then if I had issues down the road just remove bar. Sandblast it weld new rear joint and powdercoat it. 2 bolts easy remove. and in time it may rust and need to come out anyways. 

 

EDIT front is the rubber joint not rear so it is more out of the way off most dirt and crap.

 

Edited December 11, 2018 by 1SLOW1500