BTR Cam 223/228, .604"/.604", 114 LSA

300 Blackout · December 9, 2018

I’m so jealous of you right now. Thanks for posting pics. Looking forward to more.

6.2_GMC_DEN · December 9, 2018

Taking heads to machine shop in the morning. Did not like how the valves were sealing even after attempting to lap them in. Too much work to not go ahead with a goof valve job.

Note: I was able to loosen oil pump and slide forward just enough to remove cam timing gear (Oil pan still bolted in place). I am fairly certain I can get it back in time going back, we will see. Plan on making a mark 180 from original timing mark to help me line it up. Will use the piston at TDC for crank position.

This has not been as bad as everyone had made out. I was a GM Master Tech from 1993 to 2005 but I would say anyone mechanically inclined could do this with good repair info. Also I have $1100 in parts for the cam install portion. TSP Headers and Cats, New Plugs, Taylor plug wires, antifreeze, oil, & filter which is close to $900. Head work will cost $350.

Slapps74 · December 10, 2018

Sweet!!! I am really impressed that you got it out without removing the oil pump!!!! I guess I didn't try hard enough! HAHA

kennerz · December 11, 2018

On ‎12‎/‎9‎/‎2018 at 3:01 PM, 6.2_GMC_DEN said:

Taking heads to machine shop in the morning. Did not like how the valves were sealing even after attempting to lap them in. Too much work to not go ahead with a goof valve job.

Note: I was able to loosen oil pump and slide forward just enough to remove cam timing gear (Oil pan still bolted in place). I am fairly certain I can get it back in time going back, we will see. Plan on making a mark 180 from original timing mark to help me line it up. Will use the piston at TDC for crank position.

This has not been as bad as everyone had made out. I was a GM Master Tech from 1993 to 2005 but I would say anyone mechanically inclined could do this with good repair info. Also I have $1100 in parts for the cam install portion. TSP Headers and Cats, New Plugs, Taylor plug wires, antifreeze, oil, & filter which is close to $900. Head work will cost $350.

Maybe I missed this, but any root cause as to why it wiped a lobe and why the valves are not sealing? How do the guides look?

6.2_GMC_DEN · December 13, 2018

On 12/10/2018 at 9:56 PM, kennerz said:

Maybe I missed this, but any root cause as to why it wiped a lobe and why the valves are not sealing? How do the guides look?

Previous bad lifter and bent push rod which dealer replaced. Cam had to of been scored from this but they did not replace.

JONBLARC7 · December 14, 2018

Good for you I really wanted to here your thoughts this cam. I would love to do one in my 2014 6.2

Did you do a stall??

300 Blackout · December 14, 2018

How do you plan on getting the truck tuned? Are you towing it to a tuner or are you going to tune it yourself? Did you install the vvt phaser limiter?

Have you considered taking the old cam into the dealership who performed your warranty work and see if they will compensate you for not replacing the damaged cam when they should have?

6.2_GMC_DEN · December 15, 2018

Cylinder heads back from machine shop

6.2_GMC_DEN · December 15, 2018

3 hours ago, 300 Blackout said:

How do you plan on getting the truck tuned? Are you towing it to a tuner or are you going to tune it yourself? Driving to tuner... Did you install the vvt phaser limiter? Yes

Have you considered taking the old cam into the dealership who performed your warranty work and see if they will compensate you for not replacing the damaged cam when they should have? Yes

6.2_GMC_DEN · December 15, 2018

6 hours ago, JONBLARC7 said:

Good for you I really wanted to here your thoughts this cam. I would love to do one in my 2014 6.2

Did you do a stall?? No - Stock

6.2_GMC_DEN · December 16, 2018

6.2_GMC_DEN · December 16, 2018

6.2_GMC_DEN · December 16, 2018

300 Blackout · December 16, 2018

Looks great! Thanks for leading the way and posting this cam install for those of us looking to doing this.

I called over to TSP and spoke with Don and he was more than helpful in answering the million questions I had. I’d really like to be able to keep the VVT in the truck and he explained their dyno test result for the LT motors don’t support keeping VVT with more aggressive cams compared to stock.

Basically, compared to the timing phaser spring in the LS motors, which is more robust and can handle the increased valve spring pressure with the aftermarket cams, the LT motors’ phaser spring is not as strong and is more likely to be overwhelmed by the stronger valve springs. This is why they recommend a 0-degree phase-limiter block to replace the 20-degree block provided by comp cams.

This info was interesting to hear since their website description states VVT can be retained in their cams. Now the debate begins if a less aggressive tune will allow me to keep 20% VVT with a Stage 1 TSP cam rather than eliminating it completely. I sure do like my low end torque...