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Owners Pictures of 35" Tires on Stock AT4 or Trail Boss


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Just got my Trail Boss about 2 weeks ago.  Added the Rough Country 1.5" level kit; truck sits with 3/8" of rake now, which is damn near perfect to the eye.

 

The problem I'm having is, after the level kit was installed and alignment completed, the stock DuraTracs are getting damn close to the upper control arms/ball joints. I don't really want to have to buy new wheels, as I like the black factory wheels, and am not to crazy about adding wheel spacers either.... but as you can see a 12.5" wide tire is really going to be hard pressed to fit, and not rub the stock UCAs.

 

Would changing out the UCAs to something like a Camburg or Total Chaos fix this issue, and allow for more space between the joint area and inner side wall?  Was thinking about upgrading to the Camburg Kinetik Series (https://camburg.com/shop/suspension/camburg-chevygmc-1500-2wd4wd-2019-kinetik-series-billet-upper-arms/).  Haven't really seen anyone on the forum yet upgrade their UCA's, and I never have on a previous truck, so not sure if it will help with this specific problem or not.  Thanks for your input and help.

 

The pictures below are from my LT Trail Boss,  stock tires and wheels, w/ 1.5" Rough Country TB level kit.

 

20191201_120336.thumb.jpg.31d8a9091e5927479454ec16e7ad1c8a.jpg

 

20191201_120555.thumb.jpg.c31b7ecffd85a7d8dc5393a17ab618d5.jpg

 

Edit:

Called Camburg and Icon, both said the same thing.  Their control arms would actually decrease the amount of space... only options are new wheels with different offset or spacers.

Edited by Swiftks
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On 6/20/2019 at 9:55 AM, TrailDemon said:

Old tires 275/65/18 DURATRAC 45.8 lbs 

 

New tires 325/65/18  Ridge Grappler 74.2 lbs

 

 

Fitment is flushy BUT 1lb unsprung > 3-4lb sprung ? . I might  upgrade to lighter rotors down the road ?

 

MPG has dicreased from 22.2 to 17-18.5 ?

 

 

image.jpg

This is great info, THANKS!!!!

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Just got my Trail Boss about 2 weeks ago.  Added the Rough Country 1.5" level kit; truck sits with 3/8" of rake now, which is damn near perfect to the eye.
 
The problem I'm having is, after the level kit was installed and alignment completed, the stock DuraTracs are getting damn close to the upper control arms/ball joints. I don't really want to have to buy new wheels, as I like the black factory wheels, and am not to crazy about adding wheel spacers either.... but as you can see a 12.5" wide tire is really going to be hard pressed to fit, and not rub the stock UCAs.
 
Would changing out the UCAs to something like a Camburg or Total Chaos fix this issue, and allow for more space between the joint area and inner side wall?  Was thinking about upgrading to the Camburg Kinetik Series (https://camburg.com/shop/suspension/camburg-chevygmc-1500-2wd4wd-2019-kinetik-series-billet-upper-arms/).  Haven't really seen anyone on the forum yet upgrade their UCA's, and I never have on a previous truck, so not sure if it will help with this specific problem or not.  Thanks for your input and help.
 
The pictures below are from my LT Trail Boss,  stock tires and wheels, w/ 1.5" Rough Country TB level kit.
 
20191201_120336.thumb.jpg.31d8a9091e5927479454ec16e7ad1c8a.jpg
 
20191201_120555.thumb.jpg.c31b7ecffd85a7d8dc5393a17ab618d5.jpg
 
Edit:
Called Camburg and Icon, both said the same thing.  Their control arms would actually decrease the amount of space... only options are new wheels with different offset or spacers.

I’ll take a pic of my at4 with my stock duratracs and 1.5” level and see if were the same.


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On 8/17/2019 at 3:02 PM, Mark Vyskocil said:

No guts no glory. I went ahead and did the Rough Country 1318 2in level. It was anything but level. It had had the front up an inch higher than the rear. So out go the factory AT4 blocks and in come 3in ones. Sits dead level now. Went with 35x12.50x20 Nitto Trail Grapplers. Was a little nervous since they measure and true 35in and 13.39 wide. A 1/4 spacer was needed on the front since the width of tire was causing a light rub on the upper control arms. Removed the mud flap bracket, trimmed the mudflap, and pushed and pulled the liner out of the way. No rubs, lock to lock now.

owe4RqHdTUOz3ka%+Xr4Sg.jpg

I still keep coming back to this bad boy! Any issues since you have driven the truck for a while now? I was looking at doing the front level that came out a few months ago that has a new UCA instead of the RC spacers. Any thoughts?

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6 minutes ago, mattsvtcobra said:

I still keep coming back to this bad boy! Any issues since you have driven the truck for a while now? I was looking at doing the front level that came out a few months ago that has a new UCA instead of the RC spacers. Any thoughts?

No real issues. I driven over 8000 miles on this set up. I did have to do a little more trimming to cure a small rub at one certain steering wheel angle. But looks stock to the untrained eye. I also bought the Hypertech inline speedo calibrator, and ended up buying some 1/2in hub centric spacers from Custom Offsets and ditched the 1/4in shim. Just made me feel better. I'm still super happy with it and get a lot of "HOLY S@#% those are 35x12.50s" comments.

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2 minutes ago, Mark Vyskocil said:

No real issues. I driven over 8000 miles on this set up. I did have to do a little more trimming to cure a small rub at one certain steering wheel angle. But looks stock to the untrained eye. I also bought the Hypertech inline speedo calibrator, and ended up buying some 1/2in hub centric spacers from Custom Offsets and ditched the 1/4in shim. Just made me feel better. I'm still super happy with it and get a lot of "HOLY S@#% those are 35x12.50s" comments.

Before and after mpg? 
 

Looks great BTW. 

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3 hours ago, Mark Vyskocil said:

No real issues. I driven over 8000 miles on this set up. I did have to do a little more trimming to cure a small rub at one certain steering wheel angle. But looks stock to the untrained eye. I also bought the Hypertech inline speedo calibrator, and ended up buying some 1/2in hub centric spacers from Custom Offsets and ditched the 1/4in shim. Just made me feel better. I'm still super happy with it and get a lot of "HOLY S@#% those are 35x12.50s" comments.

So with your new 1/2" spacer, were you able to still use the factory studs and lugs?  I thought 3/8" thick was as thick as you could go on factory... you add something else?  Looking at ordering the 3/8" BORA spacers this month, and just trying to get everything figured out.  Thanks for your help.

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4 hours ago, mistaare said:

Before and after mpg? 
 

Looks great BTW. 

 

1 hour ago, Swiftks said:

So with your new 1/2" spacer, were you able to still use the factory studs and lugs?  I thought 3/8" thick was as thick as you could go on factory... you add something else?  Looking at ordering the 3/8" BORA spacers this month, and just trying to get everything figured out.  Thanks for your help.

I only drove it about week stock so I never really got a good read prior to the level and tires. I'm around 15-16mpg now which is 5-6mpg better then my 2012 with a 6.2, and same tires only slightly smaller so I'm completely fine with 15-16.

 

Man I looked, read posts, watched youtube videos, etc etc until I just kinda said screw it. No matter what you do someone will all ways say it cant be done, or not to do it. I decided to just order what I wanted. I figured I'm driving it not the internet experts. I removed one tire and slid the spacer on. Reinstalled the tire and hand tightened the lugs. They each spun 6-7 times and then a few more with the impact. Just drove a 600mile round trip and they are all still torqued just fine. I'm sure there is spec out there somewhere where it states if you don't have X amount of thread contact on the stud blah blah blah. I drive it, and I trust it just like it is.

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On 12/5/2019 at 3:06 PM, Mark Vyskocil said:

 

I only drove it about week stock so I never really got a good read prior to the level and tires. I'm around 15-16mpg now which is 5-6mpg better then my 2012 with a 6.2, and same tires only slightly smaller so I'm completely fine with 15-16.

 

Man I looked, read posts, watched youtube videos, etc etc until I just kinda said screw it. No matter what you do someone will all ways say it cant be done, or not to do it. I decided to just order what I wanted. I figured I'm driving it not the internet experts. I removed one tire and slid the spacer on. Reinstalled the tire and hand tightened the lugs. They each spun 6-7 times and then a few more with the impact. Just drove a 600mile round trip and they are all still torqued just fine. I'm sure there is spec out there somewhere where it states if you don't have X amount of thread contact on the stud blah blah blah. I drive it, and I trust it just like it is.

Thank you for your replies! Helps quite a bit. "Internet experts" made me laugh.

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