GRAWR question(s)

[newbcakes]

I have a 2014 Silverado 1500, 5.3L double cab, 4wd, which I use to tow a ~6000lb travel trailer.  The travel trailer has a heavy tongue weight at roughly 950lbs.  I have a E2 load transferring hitch that probably takes ~300lbs off the tongue and transfers it to other axles.  I still wasn't happy with the visible stress on the hitch, so I added air bags to the rear axle.  The air bags have addressed the sagging rear end and have really cleaned up the bouncy feel while driving with the trailer and I'm happy with them (in fact, I recommend them!).

 

Last weekend I hooked it up to go camping and decided to drive it on the truck scale to get axle weights.  The rear axle was right at 4000 lbs, or 50lbs over the GRAWR.  I didn't have much in the bed of the truck (however, it has a fiberglass cap), no kids in the cab (100lbs each x2), I actually think it was a lighter load than normal... and I'm over the weight rating.

 

I learned that the "Max trailering package" offers a towing mirror & larger rear-end.  Along with it is a 4300lb axle rating, but I don't have that on this truck.

 

With the new body style 2019's, Chevrolet has dropped the axle rating to 3800lbs from 3950.  So I'm not sure if I want to rush to find an "old style" (2014-2018) truck with the Max trailering package before they're all gone... or am I really staring down a 3/4 ton pickup to tow my 6000lb travel trailer?

 

Or am I reading the GRAWR wrong?

 

Thanks.

[swathdiver]

Add a leaf or two to your rear springs.  Talk to your local spring shop.  Even the 8.6" rear axle in my Yukon XL is rated more than your pickup at 4200 pounds.

[Roscopcoletrain]

what was the front axle weight?

Wondering if you have the WD hitch set up properly, with too much tongue weight. When set correctly, you really shouldn't need airbags to get rid of any sag as there shouldn't be much if any. 

With my trailer setup my rear axle weight was just under 3800lbs. 

Edited November 10, 2018 by Roscopcoletrain

[newbcakes]

On 11/10/2018 at 9:04 AM, Roscopcoletrain said:

what was the front axle weight?

Wondering if you have the WD hitch set up properly, with too much tongue weight. When set correctly, you really shouldn't need airbags to get rid of any sag as there shouldn't be much if any. 

With my trailer setup my rear axle weight was just under 3800lbs. 

Front axle was around 3300.  Lighter than I’d like, but RV dealership didn’t recommend any more torque on the hitch.  The 950lbs of tongue weight isn’t favorable.

[Roscopcoletrain]

can you change the hitch angle to get more adjustment? 

[newbcakes]

13 hours ago, Roscopcoletrain said:

can you change the hitch angle to get more adjustment? 

Probably, but I'm worried about too much stress on the WD hitch.  Before I added the air bags it had started to fold/shave the metal of the spring arms.  This is my hitch: 

There was so much stress on the top "pin" where the spring arm connects to the ball mount that the metal was shaving off after only 3-4 tows.  I think mine is 10K rated, I'll need to go look at it when the sun comes up!

[Roscopcoletrain]

yeah, something doesnt sound right. Any photos of the truck n trailer hitched up? 

[Donstar]

What is the layout of your trailer? Do you carry water while travelling? Is there opportunity to shift supplies/equipment to the back your trailer?  I'd check with a reputable RV dealer for training on how to properly hook up your trailer.  I have found  RV service departments much more informative than their sales floors.  You will also find that not all hitch systems are created equal.  It sounds like you are having a strange experience with your hitch and maybe it is faulty.  I know I was upset when the chrome flaked off of my trailer ball after the first trip home.  I knew this eventually happens but not the first day!  Your truck should pull a properly built and loaded trailer without aftermarket helpers.   Air bags and extra springs may enhance your experience but should not be necessary.  Before you spend more money on your truck get advice from a professional who can actually see and touch your setup.

[newbcakes]

5 hours ago, Roscopcoletrain said:

yeah, something doesnt sound right. Any photos of the truck n trailer hitched up? 

 

This is with the air bags.  Without, it sags considerably.

 

1 hour ago, Donstar said:

What is the layout of your trailer? Do you carry water while travelling? Is there opportunity to shift supplies/equipment to the back your trailer?  I'd check with a reputable RV dealer for training on how to properly hook up your trailer.  I have found  RV service departments much more informative than their sales floors.  You will also find that not all hitch systems are created equal.  It sounds like you are having a strange experience with your hitch and maybe it is faulty.  I know I was upset when the chrome flaked off of my trailer ball after the first trip home.  I knew this eventually happens but not the first day!  Your truck should pull a properly built and loaded trailer without aftermarket helpers.   Air bags and extra springs may enhance your experience but should not be necessary.  Before you spend more money on your truck get advice from a professional who can actually see and touch your setup.

Donstar - it was an Airstream dealer who set up and also recommended I not put any more weight on the WD hitch.

 

With that said, I just looked at the hitch weight again and the brochure shows 903lbs.  I would think that's easily mitigated by the WD hitch and standard suspension of the truck.  Maybe I'll swing back by the dealership, though I have nothing good to say about them.

 

[Roscopcoletrain]

perhaps set the hitch up yourself vs the dealership. Look into setting up the E2. Get the measurements, etc and start from scratch. 

[pronstar]

Axle ratings are usually based on the OEM tire rating, not necessarily the rating from the axle MFR.

So make sure you’re also not exceeding the tire load capacity.


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[newbcakes]

On 11/12/2018 at 2:37 PM, pronstar said:

Axle ratings are usually based on the OEM tire rating, not necessarily the rating from the axle MFR.

So make sure you’re also not exceeding the tire load capacity.


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That's interesting... if that's the case, how could I verify the GRAWR was based on a tire rating... or that the OE tire rating may have reduced the GRAWR rating? 

 

The OE tires were Continential CrossContact EcoPlus.  Looking them up on tirerack, they're rated at a max load of 2,403lbs.  Since then I've replaced them with Michelin Defender LTX's with a rating of 3,640lbs.  What does that mean for me?  (Other than the obvious!)

 

The original tire size is a 275/55 R20.  I added a leveling kit and a larger tire: 285/60 R20.  The larger tire has a considerably higher max weight rating.

[pronstar]

You’d have to take your truck to the CAT scales to see what your unloaded weight is per axle.

Take your rear axle weight, subtract from the tire rating (x 2 tires), and see if it matches your GAWR.

Keep in mind that regardless of what you do to your truck, you generally don’t want to exceed any of your posted weight ratings, especially for tires.

But there may be exceptions that only you can determine if right for you.




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[newbcakes]

25 minutes ago, pronstar said:

You’d have to take your truck to the CAT scales to see what your unloaded weight is per axle.

Take your rear axle weight, subtract from the tire rating (x 2 tires), and see if it matches your GAWR.

Keep in mind that regardless of what you do to your truck, you generally don’t want to exceed any of your posted weight ratings, especially for tires.

But there may be exceptions that only you can determine if right for you.




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Thank you.

[Jon A]

On 11/9/2018 at 3:09 PM, newbcakes said:

The rear axle was right at 4000 lbs, or 50lbs over the GRAWR. ....

 

I learned that the "Max trailering package" offers a towing mirror & larger rear-end.  Along with it is a 4300lb axle rating, but I don't have that on this truck.

My advice--ignore it.  Here's why:

 

There is zero difference in weight handling capability of your axle and the NHT's.  All the parts that matter for handling weight (axle tubes, axle shafts, axle bearings, etc) are the exact same part numbers.  The non-NHT 6.2 trucks get the same 9.76" axle as the NHT's, but have the same lower GAWR rating as you.

 

The reason the NHT's get the higher rating is because they have stiffer rear springs.  That's it.  You have already one-upped them with airbags which are better and add even more capability.  As you've noted, they have allowed your truck to handle the weight of the trailer much better and more safely.  Problem solved.

 

I'd recommend trying to stay within the NHT GAWR for the long-term durability of the axle (bearings, etc) but there is no safety reason to worry about exceeding the lower rating.