Frame Coating

[captainzombie]

17 hours ago, 300 Blackout said:

I thought about doing this but decided it wasn’t the fix I was looking for since they don’t remove the frame wax. They power wash the underside and apply their coating over whatever is on your frame. I had the time to do it myself so I removed all the wax I could and treated the rust before painting it.

That doesn't sound too good if that is all they do then. I'll check with the dealer to see what they charge to add a protectant for shits and giggles, even though I bet its overpriced.

[300 Blackout]

That doesn't sound too good if that is all they do then. I'll check with the dealer to see what they charge to add a protectant for shits and giggles, even though I bet its overpriced.

They will likely do the same thing as Zeibart if you’re referring to a protectant other than the chassis wax. Zeibart will spray a rust converter on it after they power wash it if rust is a problem and you request it, but they will require you to leave it with them overnight.

If you’re not dealing with any rust, just order the spray cans of the Daubert Nox-Rust X-121B and do it yourself in about 5 or 10 minutes. http:// https://www.daubertchemical.com/store/product-list/corrosion-prevention/nox-rust-x-121b

If you really want a more durable coating, other than the wax, and you want it done right (removing the wax) your options are limited unless you’re willing to either do it yourself or pay someone to do what you want.

For me, I had substantial quantities of rust that needed to be dealt with. I used a degreaser, angle grinder with wire brush, needle scaler, xylene to dissolve the wax (I recommend toluene for anyone using solvent because it dries faster) and tons of compressed air to spray the rust and dust out. Then I hand washed the underbody and frame with degreaser and rinsed with water. I let it dry and then applied POR 15 metal-prep to convert the rust and etch the bare metal. I let it dry completely then applied a two coats of POR-15. I let it cure and then sprayed 5 cans of Rust-Oleum Professional Rubberized Undercoating and one can of the regular Rust-Oleum Rubberized Undercoating. The pro version has superior adhesion and the regular version has superior color. Turned out great compared to what I started with and I think will hold up much better than the wax.

[e_schott]

Whoever mentioned Ziebart don't take it there, please lol. The couple we have around here make a mess of trucks, the undercoating they use seems to never dry for whatever reason, and something as simple as an oil change will make you look like a coal miner. Not to worried about the spot on mine. I buzzed it down with a die grinder tonight and hit it with a little canned undercoating. Good as new. Still pretty sad though. The older wax coating on the Gmt800 and 900 trucks seemed a lot thicker and harder than this new stuff. 

[John K.]

On ‎11‎/‎3‎/‎2018 at 4:34 PM, 1SLOW1500 said:

Best would be a oil or grease next is wax. 

 

In my professional option the very best is Russian! Cosmoline If whole countries trust it to protect the weapons of their country it is go enough for me. One of my hobbies was aks and ak builds Insane collectible. I am still trying to get it of some small parts. 

 

 

I have not thought of Cosmoline in years.  The US Navy loves the stuff.

 

Cosmoline is the genericized trademark for a generic class of rust preventives, typically conforming to United States Military Standard MIL-C-11796C Class 3, that are a brown colored wax-like mass; have a slight fluorescence; and have a petroleum-like odor and taste (as detected when working with it).

[1SLOW1500]

yeah Ziebart is the worst there are lawsuits, totaled trucks, and many youtube videos as proof. It dries hard and traps rust behind it, causing worst rust and speeding up the process. There are 16 and new trucks that have rusted through frames from this. also they want it resprayed yearly. 

 

Forgot about POR 15. It is great I did cast iron car parts so 10 years ago and that stuff is amazing. Best tip, don't let it get on your skin. 

[2018GMC]

I just touched mine up with fluid film. Just spots where the lift contacts the frame.

 

My Wax coating history - My 1997 has seen regular winters and interstate salt. Frame looks good and just has surface rust which I flat blacked over. The underside of the pickup bed rails have some paint bubling which I scraped off and applied fluid film. Overall the frame looks good for a 21 yr old truck. This gives me hope that my 18 will be fine.

 

Of course its a head scratcher that my 1979 has a painted frame and the midsize Colorado canyon have painted frames. 1988 - 2019 current have wax coated. Why not paint or e coat the half ton and HD frames? Is it that much cheaper to wax coat? 

Edited November 10, 2018 by 2009GMC

[300 Blackout]

Is it that much cheaper to wax coat? 

1/3 the cost. The frames also don’t have to be prepped as much prior to dipping in the wax compared to being painted.

I am parroting this info from another post on this forum where a member posted GM’s statement about the frame wax. If I find it, I will link to it.

[AllterrainX440]

On 11/7/2018 at 8:11 PM, 300 Blackout said:

They will likely do the same thing as Zeibart if you’re referring to a protectant other than the chassis wax. Zeibart will spray a rust converter on it after they power wash it if rust is a problem and you request it, but they will require you to leave it with them overnight.

If you’re not dealing with any rust, just order the spray cans of the Daubert Nox-Rust X-121B and do it yourself in about 5 or 10 minutes. http:// https://www.daubertchemical.com/store/product-list/corrosion-prevention/nox-rust-x-121b

If you really want a more durable coating, other than the wax, and you want it done right (removing the wax) your options are limited unless you’re willing to either do it yourself or pay someone to do what you want.

For me, I had substantial quantities of rust that needed to be dealt with. I used a degreaser, angle grinder with wire brush, needle scaler, xylene to dissolve the wax (I recommend toluene for anyone using solvent because it dries faster) and tons of compressed air to spray the rust and dust out. Then I hand washed the underbody and frame with degreaser and rinsed with water. I let it dry and then applied POR 15 metal-prep to convert the rust and etch the bare metal. I let it dry completely then applied a two coats of POR-15. I let it cure and then sprayed 5 cans of Rust-Oleum Professional Rubberized Undercoating and one can of the regular Rust-Oleum Rubberized Undercoating. The pro version has superior adhesion and the regular version has superior color. Turned out great compared to what I started with and I think will hold up much better than the wax.

How did it hold up over the winter? 

[300 Blackout]

How did it hold up over the winter? 

Sorry I missed this question. It held up great right up to the moment the truck was rear-ended and my frame was replaced by insurance. Ironic, right?

 

Since I had a do over, I decided to have the new frame powder coated. The replacement frame came coated in wax, and it was an absolute b**** to remove. My powder coater sandblasted it, baked it, blasted it again then hit it with a brush torch and still, there was some wax hiding that dripped out during the cure process for the powder.

 

Once I got it back, I sprayed 3 cans of Eastwood’s internal frame coating to seal up the inside of the new frame. I’m really impressed with it. Sprayed great, great coverage and stuck like glue. A tip for anyone who is going to use that product is to make sure you straighten out the nozzle extension hose with a hair dryer. I taped the hose straight onto a yard stick then heated it with a hair dryer. After everything was warm I ran it under cold water, then removed the tape. The hose stayed straight after that.

[movario]

On my 01 Tahoe, I uses a combination of "Owatrol Oil" and "Brantho Korrux 3in1". After 2 winters it still looked perfect. You don`t have to remove all the rust, you just have to scrape off all the loose rust. After the Owatrol Oil soaked into the rust, you can overpaint it with the Brantho. This paint is scratch and chip resistant, but doesn`t get like rubber, so hidden rust will not appear.

[cansled]

On 11/7/2018 at 8:11 PM, 300 Blackout said:

If you’re not dealing with any rust, just order the spray cans of the Daubert Nox-Rust X-121B and do it yourself in about 5 or 10 minutes. http:// https://www.daubertchemical.com/store/product-list/corrosion-prevention/nox-rust-x-121b

I can confirm that the link above is the exact match for the frame wax....and I agree that I would not want to respray an entire rusted frame with it, but it does a great job at touching up the places it has worn off or been rubbed off.  I just resprayed the frame rails behind the rear wheels and the top of the shock towers and it looks new again.  Thanks for the link!

[L86 All Terrain]

With Zeibart and other rubberized coatings, you have to make sure your frame is prepped properly first, if you get any voids or air pockets, it traps moisture behind it and will rot your frame faster than if it were naked metal. Think of a wet towel, will it dry faster out in the sun and air, or rolled up and jammed in a gym bag? Is Zeibart going to diligently clean your frame, wire wheel the bad spots and prep with converter and clean with a thinner, probably not, so you should do it before it goes in. A fuel oil/gear oil mixture is a great undercoat as well they have been using since the late 1800's and you can do it right at home for less than $20. Just avoid getting it on rubber bushings and mounts. I wish GM did an E-coat like Ford, but even that has a service life. A coworkers 2003 F350 is mostly rusty but there are still some well protected areas. There is nothing left of that truck, but the frame is mint, meanwhile our trucks are mint but our frames will be shot in 8 years without semi-annual maintenance. Catch 22.