Vacuum Pump Delete - Electric Replacmenent

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CVR got back to me about their pump. They didn’t answer any of the questions I had about the duty cycle of the electric motor, weather resistance or operating temps. The only thing they said was if my pump is running as often as it is then I need a reserve vacuum tank. Underwhelming response.

Yes, 1SLOW1500 is correct, the second oil filter is just my personal preference. It filters the oil down to 2 microns rather than the ~20 microns of full flow filters. The oil stays very clean.

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Bypass oil filter parts list

 

Amsoil Parts:

1 x EABP90-EA Bypass Oil Filter

1 x BK303-EA Bypass Oil Filter Base

 

JEGS Parts:

2 x 555-110101 1/8"NPT TO #4 FLARE BLACK

2 x 555-110000 #4 STR HOSE END BLACK

2 x 555-110020 #4 90° HOSE END BLACK

1 x 555-100902 #4 HOSE PRE-CUT 10-FEET

2 x 555-110141 1/8"NPT- #4 90° BLACK

 

Hardware:

3 x 5” Stainless Steel Bolts (I used 3/8 hex head bolts. Can’t remember the thread)

3 x Stainless Steel Locking nuts for the bolts

6 x Stainless Steel Washers (I think I used 1” or 1.5”)

2 x Bosch Metric Adapter Kit Part # FST 7573 (this kit is cheaper than buying the thread adapter individually)

 

Thread Compound:

1 x Permatex Seal + Lock Part # 57535

1 x Permatex Surface Prep Part # 24163

 

I didn’t use the Surface Prep originally and didn’t have any issues. When I redo my hoses I will be applying this to help speed up the cure process and make sure everything cures correctly.

[300 Blackout]

The CVR vacuum pump burned out two days ago. I put off installing the reserve vacuum canister that CVR recommended and it caught up with me. Summit racing offered 20% off a replacement pump. I overnighted a new pump and re-installed. Vacuum canisters are going in as soon as I get my truck back from the shop that’s replacing the frame.

[1SLOW1500]

The CVR vacuum pump burned out two days ago. I put off installing the reserve vacuum canister that CVR recommended and it caught up with me. Summit racing offered 20% off a replacement pump. I overnighted a new pump and re-installed. Vacuum canisters are going in as soon as I get my truck back from the shop that’s replacing the frame.

In hindsight I can see that. All vacuum pump I have worked with are belt driven or race based. With pressure valves. This is why I was loving what you where doing but in my head questioning if there is a gm part number for the lt4 pump system.
Even now what tank size is enough for the demand to reduce pump cycle? And a online check valve is needed to keep pressure of the pump output port.

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[Juanito]

Well after reading all of these for a while I thought to myself. Ah what the hell. I ran a catch can on my 2015 Sierra 5.3 and spliced a tee into the vacuum line that goes to the intake manifold. My brakes work fine! Deleted my belt driven pump. Note that my truck is tuned with Cai and cats are deleted  

[Austin66]

On 6/17/2019 at 11:38 AM, Juanito said:

Well after reading all of these for a while I thought to myself. Ah what the hell. I ran a catch can on my 2015 Sierra 5.3 and spliced a tee into the vacuum line that goes to the intake manifold. My brakes work fine! Deleted my belt driven pump. Note that my truck is tuned with Cai and cats are deleted  

 

Wait, so if you disable DoD you can maintain proper vacuum and delete the pump?

[Juanito]

21 minutes ago, Austin66 said:

 

Wait, so if you disable DoD you can maintain proper vacuum and delete the pump?

I did and it's working fine. It's plumbed into a home made catch can similar to the one you get off of jegs. 

[imiller1974]

Yeah, it works well. I did mine last year. 

[1SLOW1500]

I am so confused. You removed the vaccum pump and line to the booster? And because your dod is deleted it works?
On my truck they have nothing to do with each other. There is no line to the intake anyways. Just pump to the booster. As long as belt spins the pump there is vacuum. And this is nice because with boost there would be no vaccum to the booster most the time.

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[imiller1974]

Have to run a line from the booster to a vacuum source on the intake, and/or catch can/vacuum canister. .

[1SLOW1500]

Have to run a line from the booster to a vacuum source on the intake, and/or catch can/vacuum canister. .

You have a positive displacement roots style blower, so your "intake" side is always under a value of vacuum. But us turbo guys have vaccum that turns to boost. I could have a one way check valve inline but then it would still be closed most the time.

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[300 Blackout]

Well, I deleted the electric vacuum pump and am now pulling vacuum from the PCV hose without any issues (AFM is disabled).

I tried a few different ways to see if I could pull vacuum off of the intake before the throttle body because I was trying to avoid introducing any unmetered air via the PCV. As expected, they were all utter failures and I resorted to splicing a T fitting into the PCV hose.

I ran my vacuum line from the PCV back to a vacuum reservoir mounted just behind the engine bay fuse box. I had to remove the wiring harness terminal closest to the bulkhead from it’s mounting bracket to allow it to drop down a few inches and make room for the reservoir.

I bent up two metal brackets and mounted them with bolts to some existing holes in the upper bulkhead lip, just in front of the cabin air intake. This is a perfect spot for the reservoir IMO.

It’s nice not hearing the electric vacuum pump anymore or worrying about whether or not it would fail. This is also a much cleaner set up.

Here’s some pictures. Pay no attention to the hole I drilled in my intake air box nor the driver’s side valve cover breather hose... those are all the cost of doing business when trying new things.

I’ve amassed nearly every part I need for a hydroboost retrofit (not cheap) but I’m considering not installing it after seeing how this setup turned out. If I end up keeping it, I’m gonna upgrade my brackets and hoses for a more finished look. When you look at the pictures try to ignore the ridiculously long valve cover breather hose. If I had the normal hose, this setup would look very clean. Unfortunately, the bend radius on the replacement hose I bought caused it to kink unless I made it long like it is in the picture.

Thanks to imiller74 who shared his setup with me months ago back when he got his blower. I’ve been sitting on this idea since then and finally pulled the trigger.

Now, what to do with the vacuum pump...

[Gagliano7]

Did you try that setup without the vacuum canister? Just curious if worked without the canister. 

[1SLOW1500]

And in other news out of Novi huge black truck loses brakes and crashes into group of people, said he was testing a new brake system.....Fail.
Just kidding buddy. But you have a check valve on that so built are is held?
Maybe like the moroso oil accumulators have the electric valve.

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Did you try that setup without the vacuum canister? Just curious if worked without the canister. 

No, I didn’t. I’m sure it would work, but the canister gives a little extra in reserve.