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On 11/6/2020 at 2:51 PM, Grumpy Bear said:

Sounds like a good idea, a remote filter for ease of changing, but wait,  the oil filter housing on the ecotec 2.4 motors is another crappy design feature of this motor. Changed the oil and filter on my wife's 17 Nox 2.4 today and even after letting the oil drain overnight, the filter housing retains a good bit of oil, and the retained oil is almost sludge. I use compressed air and paper towels to clean it out the best I could and I do this every time, no dealership or qwik change is going to those lengths. IDK if using a remote filter would address the sludge catching design of the filter housing or not, your guess is as good as mine.

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14 minutes ago, garagerog said:

Sounds like a good idea, a remote filter for ease of changing, but wait,  the oil filter housing on the ecotec 2.4 motors is another crappy design feature of this motor. Changed the oil and filter on my wife's 17 Nox 2.4 today and even after letting the oil drain overnight, the filter housing retains a good bit of oil, and the retained oil is almost sludge. I use compressed air and paper towels to clean it out the best I could and I do this every time, no dealership or qwik change is going to those lengths. IDK if using a remote filter would address the sludge catching design of the filter housing or not, your guess is as good as mine.

Did you pull the filter when you pulled the oil pan drain plug?  Just that I notice when I drain the oil and then pull the filter there is a bunch more oil that drains down from the filter housing into the oil pan and out to the drain pan.

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48 minutes ago, Black02Silverado said:

Did you pull the filter when you pulled the oil pan drain plug?  Just that I notice when I drain the oil and then pull the filter there is a bunch more oil that drains down from the filter housing into the oil pan and out to the drain pan.

I always do on a conventional motor that has a spin-on, replaceable vertical filter or even the horizontal ones that the 3800 series used at times that sits on the bottom of the block.  The ecotec 2.4 and I believe some other ecotec 4 bangers have the oil filter housing built into the top of the block that uses a cartridge filter, the filter housing is designed as such that even with a downward slope via front wheel blocks towards the oil drain plug, there still is a pool of dirty, sludgy oil left in the housing. I normally drain the crankcase on this motor, let it drain over night, then tackle the filter the next day on a cool motor.

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On 11/18/2020 at 5:11 PM, garagerog said:

I always do on a conventional motor that has a spin-on, replaceable vertical filter or even the horizontal ones that the 3800 series used at times that sits on the bottom of the block.  The ecotec 2.4 and I believe some other ecotec 4 bangers have the oil filter housing built into the top of the block that uses a cartridge filter, the filter housing is designed as such that even with a downward slope via front wheel blocks towards the oil drain plug, there still is a pool of dirty, sludgy oil left in the housing. I normally drain the crankcase on this motor, let it drain over night, then tackle the filter the next day on a cool motor.

OK I was wondering.  On my daughters 2012 Cruze with the 1.4 I pull the filter while it is draining to the pan from the drain plug.  Like I stated before, you can hear the extra oil from the filter up top drain down and into the pan and out. Might want to do that with the motor still hot and not wait until the next day.  That way it will drain out faster.

Edited by Black02Silverado
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16 minutes ago, Black02Silverado said:

OK I was wondering.  On my daughters 2014 Cruze with the 1.4 I pull the filter while it is draining to the pan from the drain plug.  Like I stated before, you can hear the extra oil from the filter up top drain down and into the pan and out. Might want to do that with the motor still hot and not wait until the next day.  That way it will drain out faster.

Wouldn't matter with the ecotec 2.4, hot or cold, the oil filter housing has indents that allow puddling of oil no matter what. I guess if one was so inclined, you could remove the hood, strap the car on a rotisserie, flip it upside down to drain the oil filter housing, but by that time, it would be cold anyway. Not trying to be facetious, just make a point.

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  • 1 month later...

Insert Jack Webb's Dragnet voice here:

 

It was 12/26/2020.  

 

A balmy 65F in mid-America red-state flyover God's-country instead of a white Christmas.  So I took the opportunity to do an impromptu outdoors short-interval change on the oil and filter on the 2009 Silverado at the folk's house, since early next Spring may be extra fun in my line of work, what with the vaccinations for the pandemic and coming civil war and plagues of locusts or whatever else the Deep State and Communists can dream up together.   

  • 2009 Silverado Z71 4x4 5.3L 6 speed 3.42 gears
  • 90,200 miles
  • ~3800 engine hours
  • Little less than 4K miles on this oil, 35% remaining on Oil Life Monitor in DIC
  • 6.0 quarts of Quaker State 5W-30 Ultimate Durability full-synthetic Dexos2 motor oil from Wally World.  
  • AC Delco PF48E oil filter from Wally World (yes I know, e-core filter; hell froze over)  [I did not have any of my cache of Shell Rotella Gas Truck oil or Wix 57060XP oil filters with me, as all extra room was being used to truck Christmas stuff.]
  • New AC Delco A3181C air filter will be installed this weekend; it was not in stock at O'Reillys when I did the oil change.
  • New Michelin Stealth hybrid wiper blades from Wally World will also be installed this weekend, AFTER the first winter storm.  DANG!
  • I did the 4-tire rotation (rear tires straight to front and fronts crossed-over to rears), charged EverStart Maxx battery, and lubed the tie rod end zerks with Mobil1 full-synthetic grease over Thanksgiving weekend.

 

Why this post?  For the record, so I can refer back to it for the next oil and air filter change, of course.  :P

 

Happy 2021, Patriots!  All others should just move to the United Socialist States of Canada now and avoid the rush later.  :flag: :D

Edited by MaverickZ71
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  • 2 weeks later...

132,500 Mile Service

2015 Terrain 2.4 I4

132,404 actual

2,693 mile OCI (2,500 target)

6 ounces used this service for a quart in 14,363 miles.

Previously 8,988 miles per quart.

Still making improvement!

PBL15436 Purolator and 5 quarts Costco Kirkland 5W30

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Few photos from today. Emptied the catch can pulled 2 oz which is about what it has previously pulled every 3K ish miles

692f87fb490c0588e9e64be0e7e2317b.jpg4d3129f218618694bcec40e9b4aa2a50.jpgcdfc7fb8ddc664d4e3a70d86a6babe58.jpg

I might have an oil problem (coat had a good sale)

a27c3b847585c6b9af5c0893f45aa9fe.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

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  • 3 weeks later...

I bought my truck a month ago with 45K miles on it. Working through all the fluid maintenance needs right now but its cold as hell in the Midwest. Changed out the Transfer case with some AC Delco ATF and did the front and rear diff with Amsoil severe gear. Barely any sludge on any of the magnets. All looked really good. Rear diff looked slightly dark but not bad at all, front looked like chocolate milk, you can see the difference in the two fluids. Its my understanding that since the front diff isn't used as much it doesn't heat up like the rear hence the chocolate milk color. Any truth to that? I know the dealership changed the oil but they not only put the wrong tires ( not E rated) they also put the wrong filter on. So I don't trust any of their work lol. I bought a Napa Platinum filter and Valvoline 5-30 full syn was on sale for $27 for 6 qts. Figured its good enough until I figure out what I will run in this truck.

20210125_173859.jpg

IMG_1891.jpg

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Great choice in the NAPA Platinum filter (Wix made) that is a good 5000-10,000 mile filter.  Great choice with the Amsoil front and rear diff stuff, I'm going to do mine at 20,000 miles.  Good choice also with the transfer case fulid change but even there I'd likely use Amsoil but no worries.  If you have the money and time, I'd also change out the power steering fluid, not very many miles on it, but get a good clean baseline on it anyway. (assuming you do have power steering fluid and it's not electric) Flush the tranny fluid every 30,000 miles too.  The flush will clean the filter/screen. 

 

Edited by Colossus
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1 hour ago, Abominator said:

I bought my truck a month ago with 45K miles on it. Working through all the fluid maintenance needs right now but its cold as hell in the Midwest. Changed out the Transfer case with some AC Delco ATF and did the front and rear diff with Amsoil severe gear. Barely any sludge on any of the magnets. All looked really good. Rear diff looked slightly dark but not bad at all, front looked like chocolate milk, you can see the difference in the two fluids. Its my understanding that since the front diff isn't used as much it doesn't heat up like the rear hence the chocolate milk color. Any truth to that? I know the dealership changed the oil but they not only put the wrong tires ( not E rated) they also put the wrong filter on. So I don't trust any of their work lol. I bought a Napa Platinum filter and Valvoline 5-30 full syn was on sale for $27 for 6 qts. Figured its good enough until I figure out what I will run in this truck.

20210125_173859.jpg

IMG_1891.jpg

Yes, this is normal for the factory front diff fluid.  I changed our 2016 Suburban out at 10k miles and it looked the same.  Sent a sample off and it came back good.  It is my understanding the color is from the factory using marking fluid when they assemble the differential.

 

Good choice on fluids.  :)

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16 hours ago, Colossus said:

Great choice in the NAPA Platinum filter (Wix made) that is a good 5000-10,000 mile filter.  Great choice with the Amsoil front and rear diff stuff, I'm going to do mine at 20,000 miles.  Good choice also with the transfer case fluid change but even there I'd likely use Amsoil but no worries.  If you have the money and time, I'd also change out the power steering fluid, not very many miles on it, but get a good clean baseline on it anyway. (assuming you do have power steering fluid and it's not electric) Flush the tranny fluid every 30,000 miles too.  The flush will clean the filter/screen. 

 

Thanks for the info. I am definitely going to do a full drain/full exchange and filter service on the Tranny once it warms up around March. I am treating all the maintenance like it was severe service since I don't know the history. I am on the fence about Amsoil, Redline or AC Delco for the ATF. I'll need to read up more on it. I hear mixed things/ opinions and I'm sure that's all I'll ever get.  I think the coolant, power steering, and brake fluid are due @ 5yrs (since I'm way under the mileage). I may put that off until next year. I think my truck has a born date of June 17'. Other than oil changed I have never really done much maintenance on my vehicles, I am actually enjoying it quite a bit plus the piece of mind.

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1 hour ago, Abominator said:

Thanks for the info. I am definitely going to do a full drain/full exchange and filter service on the Tranny once it warms up around March. I am treating all the maintenance like it was severe service since I don't know the history. I am on the fence about Amsoil, Redline or AC Delco for the ATF. I'll need to read up more on it. I hear mixed things/ opinions and I'm sure that's all I'll ever get.  I think the coolant, power steering, and brake fluid are due @ 5yrs (since I'm way under the mileage). I may put that off until next year. I think my truck has a born date of June 17'. Other than oil changed I have never really done much maintenance on my vehicles, I am actually enjoying it quite a bit plus the piece of mind.

I sent you some information a PM so I wouldn't clutter up this thread and take it off topic. 

 

 

 

 

Edited by Grumpy Bear
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On 1/26/2021 at 9:12 AM, Grumpy Bear said:

I sent you some information a PM so I wouldn't clutter up this thread and take it off topic. 

 

 

 

 

PM me as well... Please and thanks

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