Rebels Come Calling ( Who is not running 0W-20 Oil ? )

[Grumpy Bear]

https://www.shopcross.com

To get centistokes from centipoise, divide by the density. Since most hydrocarbons will have a density of about 0.85 to 0.9, the centistokes value will be about 10% to 15% higher than the centipoises value. To go in the other direction, multiply centistokes by the density to get centipoises.

 

Thought I might add this before someone gets all wigged out about the 150C/302F HTHS viscosity and its indication of shear strength. Look at the table provided in the previous post that shows the standards for each classification. Again this number assumes equal temperatures. It's a comparative guide but says nothing about your unique operating conditions. Just say'n. There is a reason coolers work. 

[SierraHD17]

Swapped a 2014 5.3 truck to 5W30 when it had around 30000 miles on it.  Was using over a quart per change on 0W20 water lol.  Since the introduction of various brands of 5w30 all consumption has stopped and it has around 60000 miles on it now.  If the afm lifters don't fall apart ( it's disabled but the hard parts are still in there) and the oil pump doesn't crack ithe veins t should live for a very long time.

[crankman]

I use 5W-30 on our 3 GM trucks in the family. a 5.3,6.2 and 6.0. Only difference is 6.0 gets Mobil 1 and other 2 get Valvoline Full Syn 5w-30. There all running fine.

[Sierra Dan]

All great points gentleman.

Anyone notice a slightly quieter running engine with the thicker oil?

[2016LTCC]

Has anyone had that notorious ticking/fluttering/rattling noise coming through the drivers sided fire wall under acceleration? If so did a heavier oil weight resolve that issue?

[Black02Silverado]

2002 Silverado 5.3 running 0w-20.  183k miles.  No issues and it gets hot here in eastern NC.  Also tow a 5k 20' trailer about once a month.  

 

Running 5w-30 isn't an issue.  You can run it the day you drive it off the lot.  The engine isn't going to care.  

 

I'm actually the Rebel.  I go for the thinner oil. 

 

Our 2016 Suburban is just about at 14k miles  with AMSOIL Signature Series 0w-20. The first UOA at 7,500 miles was good and so I kept it in and going to check it again at 14k miles.  Also running an Ea017 oil filter. We just turned 35k miles on it.

[seamus2154]

3 hours ago, Grumpy Bear said:

Given your special conditions on track day it makes sense if you can't get the air or cooler space to cool it. I understand. Thanks. Reference is everything, is it not? 

 

Here's another; 500 CID 1500 HP Pro Stock motors use.....straight 0 or 5 weight. Shear strength is tied hard to base oil chemistry and viscosity. Not the viscosity in the bottle but 'under operating conditions". 15W50 at 250F is no more viscous than 0W20 at 200 F. They count on it give the short run times of an NHRA Pro Stock motor. They are tied at the hip. Temp/viscosity/shear strength/chemistry. 

 

Just offering a link I like on the topic. Love the paragraphs on Mineral vs Synthetic chemical structures. Anyway, someone might find it useful...or not. 

 

http://www.kewengineering.co.uk/Auto_oils/oil_viscosity_explained.htm

 

That's a great link. Kinda lead to my decision on 0w40 for the Vette other than the track. Easier to follow. I read "Bob the oil guy" a lot but has various topics. Thanks 

[pewterliftedz]

On 8/23/2018 at 7:26 PM, Madcow2020 said:

 

 

Well in Southwest Texas heat I’m running 15w-40 winters 10w-30. If people read the owners manuals it says may running heavier oil in warmer climates. 0w-anything is for up north and gas miles.


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Where in the owners manual does it say that?  My manual says to ONLY use the recommended 0w-20.  It doesn't say anything about changing the weight for your environment 

[mookdoc6]

1 hour ago, Black02Silverado said:

2002 Silverado 5.3 running 0w-20.  183k miles.  No issues and it gets hot here in eastern NC.  Also tow a 5k 20' trailer about once a month.  

 

Running 5w-30 isn't an issue.  You can run it the day you drive it off the lot.  The engine isn't going to care.  

 

I'm actually the Rebel.  I go for the thinner oil. 

 

Our 2016 Suburban is just about at 14k miles  with AMSOIL Signature Series 0w-20. The first UOA at 7,500 miles was good and so I kept it in and going to check it again at 14k miles.  Also running an Ea017 oil filter. We just turned 35k miles on it.

The most friction/wear damage occurs at start up?  So you guys going 10W probably encourage more wear at startup and effectively run all to same operating range where they thin out to pretty much the same thing?  So why would you put the higher viscosity oil in?  The only problem I have is I can't read the dip stick for couple weeks....After 65K I have about 200ml burnoff @ 10K intervals....Pretty Nice all with the 0W-20 water I am kinda liking it now....Heck 5yrs from now it will be in probably everything other than those fast toys!

Edited August 25, 2018 by mookdoc6

[Pearl2017]

One additional point about 15-40 or 15-50 ...they have a considerably larger slug of anti wear additive in them which makes them outstanding for any moving parts that are not lubricated under pressure. My sport bike engines especially like that up top and it quiets them noticeably.

 

Seamus make some good points and Grumpy also posted a good link everyone should read. ...no matter what oil you use for gosh sake let the stuff warm up before the flogging begins.

 

I attended the sports car show in west palm beach Fl a few years back. Some of the owners (Dorks) would fire up a dead cold engine and bounce it off the rev limit to thrill the onlookers. ...It made me cringe ...I'm talking Ferrari's and Lamborghini's

[Roscopcoletrain]

8 hours ago, pewterliftedz said:

Where in the owners manual does it say that?  My manual says to ONLY use the recommended 0w-20.  It doesn't say anything about changing the weight for your environment 

 

Yeah, all I could find was this 

 

Quote

Viscosity GradeUse SAE 0W-20 viscosity grade forthe 5.3L and 6.2L V8 engines. UseSAE 5W-30 viscosity grade for the4.3L V6, and 6.0L V8 engines.Cold Temperature Operation: In anarea of extreme cold, where thetemperature falls below−29°C(−20°F), an SAE 0W-30 oil may beused in the 4.3L or 6.0L engine.An oil of this viscosity grade willprovide easier cold starting for theengine at extremely lowtemperatures

 

[Madcow2020]

Where in the owners manual does it say that?  My manual says to ONLY use the recommended 0w-20.  It doesn't say anything about changing the weight for your environment 

I’ll have to look when I get back from vacation, but every car manual I’ve had before said that. But the online does not. I might be thinking about my 2013


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[Madcow2020]

 

So logically if they tell you use a thinner oil in colder climates. A thicker one in warmer climates where it’s 80 degrees out at 6:30 in the morning would make sense.


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[Roscopcoletrain]

21 minutes ago, Madcow2020 said:

 

So logically if they tell you use a thinner oil in colder climates. A thicker one in warmer climates where it’s 80 degrees out at 6:30 in the morning would make sense.


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Perhaps, but it also says that's for the 4.3/6.0.

 

But I suppose if they say those two, logically they must mean all?

[Cowpie]

Well, one could get a more stable result by using a 5w20 instead of a 0w20.  A 5w20 has a much lower burn off rate, uses fewer viscosity modifiers which can shear under pressure, etc.... all of which makes 5w20 a more stable oil.  And there are 5w20 oils on the dexos1 approved list, at least a year or two ago when I last checked.   And there is not a dealer or OEM on the planet that can tell the difference between a 0w20 and 5w20 via a used oil test if they wanted to go that route.    And a 5w20 has a lower burn off rate than a 5w30.  Only a 10w30 matches a 5w20 in NOACK burn off rate.   One of the reasons my wife's Cadillac has gotten only a 10w30 even though the recommended oil by GM is Mobil 1 5w30.  Could be the reason that this 2006 Cadillac is still a real keeper of a car.   None of the problems with timing chains and other stuff many other 3.6L owners have experienced.    Again, GM could never tell if the oil was a 5w30 or 10w30.  Just not possible with used motor oil to determine that.

 

A 30 weight oil is not "thicker" than a 20 weight oil.  Viscosity is a measure of resistance to flow, not molecular thickness.  

 

There are myriads of examples of folks using a 20 weight year round even towing regularly and the motors are in excellent condition. I use a 30 weight oil year round in my commercial semi truck moving up to 80,000 lb of truck and cargo.  Many say that a 40 weight should be used for such things.  Well, my Detroit 12.7L with 869,000 miles on it never got the memo.  The used oil samples look as good as when it only had 50,000 miles on it, and it uses less oil than most folk's pickup trucks... it uses an average 2 qt of oil in 23,000 mile oil changes.  The motor is still all original.  

 

A quality 5w20 oil will provide more than ample protection for most folks for motors that call for it.  Nothing wrong with using a 30 weight in them either, but not really necessary.

Edited August 26, 2018 by Cowpie