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Oil pressure 6.2


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Not sure why some choose to keep a razor thin margin for error in these not inexpensive machines. The 0w-20 spec was made to save .1 mpg for federal mandate and not to tow a trailer up a hill at 70 in the heat. Put in thicker oil of your choice or risk it all its your choice. Do a Used Oil Analysis on this fill and see if there are some bearing metals in the oil. As the bearings wear the pressure will get even lower accelerating the wear. Good luck


Well said. I’ve started using the mobile one annual 0W20 oil, changing out every 4K. A bit more expensive but my reasoning for using this oil is cause it’s got much more protection added to it, I could be wrong but I don’t tow anything other than bigger tires [emoji6]


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What was the oil pressure when it was brand new? My bet is that it hasn't changed from that. If the sending unit is out of calibration and/or the gauge, you'll get lower than typical readings both at idle and at speed. You didn't say what the pressure is at cruising speed around 1,500-1,700 RPM either. You should expect that to be about 40, maybe a bit less. The best way to determine the "actual" oil pressure is to use a mechanical oil pressure gauge and test it.

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How much above 20?I would love for mine to be above 20.my we 2016 5.3 stayed above 20. But not by much. 

I am a little concerned about it. But I hear no engine noise at all. I know dealer will say Normal

 

You should be and that’s why I said run to the service dealership while you’re still under warranty. Ok, I’m hanging outside and stopped everything I was doing just to get in the truck and snap this for you.

 

 

08ceb81f1c93b72fe3104fc3525bacbc.jpg

4c07f4c21666466018d10021d3a112ee.jpg

 

Looks to me that 30 is about average and as you can see it’s all warmed up just back from a 35mile commute

 

 

 

 

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26 minutes ago, '17 Sierra said:

What was the oil pressure when it was brand new? My bet is that it hasn't changed from that. If the sending unit is out of calibration and/or the gauge, you'll get lower than typical readings both at idle and at speed. You didn't say what the pressure is at cruising speed around 1,500-1,700 RPM either. You should expect that to be about 40, maybe a bit less. The best way to determine the "actual" oil pressure is to use a mechanical oil pressure gauge and test it.

Cruising is about 35.if I lightly put my foot on the gas and bring the rpm up around 700 it goes pretty much to 30. But my engine idles around 500 550 rpm. I can't remember what the pressure was last year when it was new. I know it was around 20 than too but not sure if it ever went below 20

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21 minutes ago, TXGREEK said:

 

You should be and that’s why I said run to the service dealership while you’re still under warranty. Ok, I’m hanging outside and stopped everything I was doing just to get in the truck and snap this for you.

 

 

08ceb81f1c93b72fe3104fc3525bacbc.jpg

4c07f4c21666466018d10021d3a112ee.jpg

 

Looks to me that 30 is about average and as you can see it’s all warmed up just back from a 35mile commute

 

 

 

 

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What's your rpm? Mine is lower in gear since the rpm is lower. In park it's above 2020180814_190133.thumb.jpg.6d1bc7a3ef48c2479911685556679a81.jpg

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4 minutes ago, ltzsilverado said:

Cruising is about 35.if I lightly put my foot on the gas and bring the rpm up around 700 it goes pretty much to 30. But my engine idles around 500 550 rpm. I can't remember what the pressure was last year when it was new. I know it was around 20 than too but not sure if it ever went below 20

For peace of mind you might want to stop at the dealer but I promise you they'll say it's normal. The fact that you're below 40 (closer to 35) at speed and you're below 20 at idle is a pretty good confirmation that your sending unit or your gauge is off. That's why I asked you what it was when it was new. If you're losing main bearings or cam bearings, it would have started out higher when it was new and dropped significantly by now. Mine reads a bit below 40; probably 37 cruising and the secondary stage pulls it past 75 over 3,500 RPM. Have you checked pressure at that RPM? Seriously, you're okay.

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For peace of mind you might want to stop at the dealer but I promise you they'll say it's normal. The fact that you're below 40 (closer to 35) at speed and you're below 20 at idle is a pretty good confirmation that your sending unit or your gauge is off. That's why I asked you what it was when it was new. If you're losing main bearings or cam bearings, it would have started out higher when it was new and dropped significantly by now. Mine reads a bit below 40; probably 37 cruising and the secondary stage pulls it past 75 over 3,500 RPM. Have you checked pressure at that RPM? Seriously, you're okay.


He’s at 20 not 30. He needs to first check his oil level and if it’s full then haul ass to the dealership!


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What's your rpm? Mine is lower in gear since the rpm is lower. In park it's above 2020180814_190133.thumb.jpg.6d1bc7a3ef48c2479911685556679a81.jpg


It’s right at or above 40 at cruising speed and a bit higher at highway speeds.


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1 hour ago, '17 Sierra said:

What was the oil pressure when it was brand new? My bet is that it hasn't changed from that. If the sending unit is out of calibration and/or the gauge, you'll get lower than typical readings both at idle and at speed. You didn't say what the pressure is at cruising speed around 1,500-1,700 RPM either. You should expect that to be about 40, maybe a bit less. The best way to determine the "actual" oil pressure is to use a mechanical oil pressure gauge and test it.

Mine has been low since day one.  And every part has been microed.   I originally posted to reassure the OP.  I haven't worried about it yet but now you guys got me curious.  

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Mine has been low since day one.  And every part has been microed.   I originally posted to reassure the OP.  I haven't worried about it yet but now you guys got me curious.  


Are you in Texas?


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6 hours ago, TXGREEK said:

 


He’s at 20 not 30. He needs to first check his oil level and if it’s full then haul ass to the dealership!


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If his oil level was too low, he’d be getting fluctuations; the gauge would be moving up and down while at a steady RPM. Check engine light would come on and the fuel pump would be shut down to kill the motor.

O.P., save yourself a trip to the dealer to be told that it’s fine. You’re good for sure.

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