Swapping out MagneRide for different option?

midwestdenaliguy · August 14, 2018

I'll try to simplify this as much as possible, but I'm currently exploring whether or not to keep the MagneRide setup on my 2016 Sierra Denali 1500 (if it's possible). I bought it with 57k miles and have put on 6k miles, and I'm not loving the ride. Before anyone jumps on me, I do not expect the ride of a luxury sedan. I understand it's a truck, but it's simply too stiff of a ride for my preference. I've done hours of research on here, as well as other sites, to explore my options. I have found some options that offer a softer ride, but since this is my first real mod I want to make sure I'm fully educated.

Current Setup/Use

- 2016 Sierra Denali 1500 w/63k miles.

- 22" OEM rims with brand new Nitto Terra Grappler G2 tires (285/45r22).

- Everything is stock with the exception of a 1.5" leveling block kit installed in the front.

- Truck is daily driver, seeing approx 90 miles per day on highway. I use the bed for typical house projects (wood, etc.) and rarely tow. If I do tow, it's a 1,500lb car trailer used for large wood, landscaping rocks, and furniture. I sold my Wrangler that I towed on the trailer, so it'll be a while before I tow another heavy toy again.

Research/Initial Thoughts

- Regardless of what I decide on the suspension, I will be getting rid of the 22" wheels and going with a 20" or 18" option with more sidewall - so let's keep the discussion to suspension :-)

- I could not find a definitive answer on this (surprisingly), but what is the typical lifespan of a MagneRide shock? I know it's based on use, so what I can tell you is this is not an off-road truck and it's mainly been used for highway. My shocks look to be original, so 63k miles could mean they are at the end of their life.

- The MagneRide shocks have sensors and are tied into the leveling/computer systems.

Questions From Me

- Is it possible to get around the MagneRide system and not set off any codes/lights if I replace with a non-Mag shock?

- For those who have driven on brand new MagneRide shocks, is it a relatively soft ride? I ask because the answer may be to get new OEM Mag shocks and that'll take care of it.

- Even if new Mag shocks would soften the ride, there are plenty of cheaper non-Mag options out there. One that kept coming up in multiple forums (across various trucks) that got rave reviews for being the best daily driver solution were the Boss Coilovers made by HaloLifts (http://halolifts-com.3dcartstores.com/Boss-Coilovers-fits-your-2007-UP-GM-SilveradoSierra-1500-_p_226.html). They also make rear shocks. People claim they are better than Bilstein, King, and Rancho - again for daily driver not off-road.

- Did anyone do anything with their leaf springs? I saw a thread on here where 2 potential solutions help, put on a leaf clamps and tighten the stock u-bolts. I'm curious if anyone swapped out stock leaf springs for aftermarket.

Any other advice I didn't mention is welcome. Again, I'm not looking for a "luxury sedan floating down the road" experience. Just something softer than my current 63k mile MagneRide setup. Thanks!

ray2005 · August 14, 2018

Magneride is not soft, I'm not sure what the life is on it or if they wear like regular shocks. I know they fail electronically. It will throw codes but can be solved by a resistor or module. I know a lot of people with Tahoe's and Yukon's get rid of it. Try tahoeyukonforum.com for references.

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wforrest08 · August 14, 2018

As for throwing codes here is one option there are other companies that make them to, along with cheaper DIY options out there.

http://www.xineering.com/shocksims.html

there’s a PDF link with instructions at the bottom of the page.

“I'm curious if anyone swapped out stock leaf springs for aftermarket.”

there’s several threads on here about this some for ride some for noise which one are you trying to fix?

I see your leveled I’m assuming you bought it that way? If not did the ride change afterwards? Only reason I mention it is because some guys on here have reported stiff ride after lifting or lowering their truck and some have modified the level sensors with some success. But l think all the ones I read about were ones where the rear was also lifted/lowered so might not be relevant with just a level?

Edited August 14, 2018 by wforrest08
Because I can?

Lgetz · August 14, 2018

Friend's wife had a 2015 Tahoe LTZ with MagnaRide shocks that went bad right at 50K miles. Luckily they were covered under extended warranty. She stated that the ride went from stiff and choppy to smooth as silk. Had the OE 20's with 275/55 Michelin tires.

As other poster stated your ride sensors were either not calibrated or shocks have gone bad.

midwestdenaliguy · August 14, 2018

4 hours ago, ray2005 said:

Magneride is not soft, I'm not sure what the life is on it or if they wear like regular shocks. I know they fail electronically. It will throw codes but can be solved by a resistor or module. I know a lot of people with Tahoe's and Yukon's get rid of it. Try tahoeyukonforum.com for references.

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Good to know Mags aren't soft, that answers that. Resistor or module to offset the thrown code, simple solve. I'll dig into it, thanks!

42 minutes ago, wforrest08 said:

As for throwing codes here is one option there are other companies that make them to, along with cheaper DIY options out there.

http://www.xineering.com/shocksims.html

there’s a PDF link with instructions at the bottom of the page.

“I'm curious if anyone swapped out stock leaf springs for aftermarket.”

there’s several threads on here about this some for ride some for noise which one are you trying to fix?

I see your leveled I’m assuming you bought it that way? If not did the ride change afterwards? Only reason I mention it is because some guys on here have reported stiff ride after lifting or lowering their truck and some have modified the level sensors with some success. But l think all the ones I read about were ones where the rear was also lifted/lowered so might not be relevant with just a level?

Thanks for the sensor link, I'll read up. As far as leaf springs, I don't have any noise. Just looking for a softer ride and the leaf springs came to me as I was typing my post. I'll check out the leaf spring thread to see if someone talks about a softer ride, thanks.

midwestdenaliguy · August 15, 2018

Gotta add, I just spoke to Alex with HaloLifts and it was a great discussion. He answered all my questions about the right suspension kit for me and it came down to this complete kit (link below). It's plug and play, with the exception of having to remove the factory bump stops on the front. They have to be cut off, but they can be easily welded back on if I return to stock. So far, this is the stand out kit for me. Still researching though...

http://halolifts-com.3dcartstores.com/HaloLifts-Boss-Ultimate-Kit-fits-your-2007-UP-GM-SilveradoSierra-1500_p_220.html

FYI - they have really taken off with Ford Trucks, selling about 5 kits per day. He said they haven't quite taken off with GM trucks yet, but they also haven't advertised (sell about 1-2 per month). Of the kits they've sold, people claim they are a way better ride than stock. We'll see if I go that route...

seamus2154 · August 15, 2018

I have this mag ride on two trucks now. The '15 Denali was brutal and I felt just as you do. It's unacceptable. I explored several avenues and ultimately bought a 2017 Denali Yukon XL. The mag ride is more compliant and improved but still firm. But acceptable. I live in Florida and it mostly flat and straight.

Recently I have been shopping the deals on the 2018 Sierras. I did a long 3 hour test drive on a 2018 Sierra 5.3- 8 speed, crew cab, short bed, 2wd, with tow package. I had this exact truck in a 2015 and it was rough. The 2018 was awesome. It rode a night and day difference from my 2015 and I loved how it soaked up bumps and drove. Compliant and comfortable. I was very impressed. If I were you I would buy these shocks and springs as they are an upgrade. If you can go drive one and grab the vin #.

midwestdenaliguy · August 15, 2018

Read a potential solution on the code/light. Someone claims you can pull the fuse for the electronic suspension control system (fuse #20) with the key in or out (they couldn't remember which) and the light never comes on. Could be a solution as long as nothing else is tied to that fuse that I might need (can't think of what would be). Won't know unless I unplug a shock and see if it throws a light, then pull the fuse. Once I'm not traveling for work I'll give it a try.

midwestdenaliguy · August 15, 2018

11 minutes ago, seamus2154 said:

I have this mag ride on two trucks now. The '15 Denali was brutal and I felt just as you do. It's unacceptable. I explored several avenues and ultimately bought a 2017 Denali Yukon XL. The mag ride is more compliant and improved but still firm. But acceptable. I live in Florida and it mostly flat and straight.

Recently I have been shopping the deals on the 2018 Sierras. I did a long 3 hour test drive on a 2018 Sierra 5.3- 8 speed, crew cab, short bed, 2wd, with tow package. I had this exact truck in a 2015 and it was rough. The 2018 was awesome. It rode a night and day difference from my 2015 and I loved how it soaked up bumps and drove. Compliant and comfortable. I was very impressed. If I were you I would buy these shocks and springs as they are an upgrade. If you can go drive one and grab the vin #.

I wonder if the only real difference between your 15 and the 18 is just the shocks? OEM MagneRide shocks and coilovers are not cheap, so I may still go with the HaloLift kit since feedback is that it's softer and cheaper than stock. Worth a look into the 2018 setup though.

Tahoe02 · August 15, 2018

I know on the Tahoes the shocks were upgraded from the 2015s and a much better ride.I believe there was a TSB on the rough ride and shocks were replaced. If you drive a 2018 and really like the ride maybe you can get the part # and consider just replacing the shock. I would look on Ebay as pricing is better, free shipping and no tax.

seamus2154 · August 15, 2018

2 hours ago, midwestdenaliguy said:

I wonder if the only real difference between your 15 and the 18 is just the shocks? OEM MagneRide shocks and coilovers are not cheap, so I may still go with the HaloLift kit since feedback is that it's softer and cheaper than stock. Worth a look into the 2018 setup though.

Well getting your part#'s and comparing is easy but I seriously doubt its just shocks. It was a completely different ride, not harsh at all. I will bet springs are different too just because the initial hit of a bump was taken in better. Try to get to a dealer and drive one. I was very surprised, but they made a change.

Bultaco956 · November 10, 2018

2015 Tahoe LTZ 3rd owner 75K- 20 inch wheels - We love the ride it after replacing front shocks with revised part number 84176631 for $700

We bought our LTZ from the local Chevy dealer used car lot to replace our 2003 Expedition XLT in part because the 2015 LTZ's reputation of more sports car like handling compared to the 2016 and later GM models that have a reputation for significantly softer handling Admittedly the test drive was short, in traffic, on a smooth road. After we bought it and started driving it the ride was so bad (and the engine was leaking oil) that we basically ended up parking it for 9 months until I had time to deal with it.

I wasted all kinds of time on the internet reading about the harsh ride of the 2015 Tahoe, Denali, Escalade and even came close to ordering 18 inch wheels or trading it in.

When I finally got around to working with the dealer to address the ride and engine oil leak the dealer found both front shocks bad, both were leaking (which I had identified also) and one shock was completely out of oil and locked into an extended position. No wonder the ride was rough! The dealer quoted almost $2400 to replace the 2 front shocks. A little research into their quote showed that price was for replacement of the whole strut assemblies not just the shocks.

If you don't know the front springs and struts on the 2015 and later Tahoe, etc. are assembled into a single unit, kind of like a McPherson strut but not quite as there are both upper and lower A arms. My guess is the dealers don't want to fool with breaking down and rebuilding the strut/shock assemblies. It is possible other parts may need replacement such as the rubber bump stops etc. but in my case all of the original parts except the shocks themselves were reusable.

I'm 62 years old and trying to work on cars less but in this case I decided to just change the shocks myself. My Tahoe has the heavy duty towing package and compressing the front springs was simply not possible with a loaner coil spring compressor from the local auto parts store. The total cost of the job was $736 ($301 each for two OEM Delco magnaride shocks from Rock Auto (use the updated shock GM part # 84176631) plus $134 labor at the local tire store to swap the new shocks into the old strut assembly - thanks to them for doing that in a couple of hours on a busy Saturday). It took me about 4 hours to remove and reinstall the strut assemblies from pulling the truck into the garage to test drive. The rear shocks were fine - with the HD towing package they are not electric. If I had it to do again I could probably do it in two hours - There are only 5 bolts holding each strut/shock assembly in plus one to loosen on the sway bar link. I reused the existing magnaride electrical connectors but those took a lot of patience to disassemble. If I had to do again I would buy the connector kits (part # 22836728) which I think are about $7 per side. I didn't have a service manual so based on the internet research the torque specs I used were 47 ft lbs for the strut towers and shocks, and 17 ft lbs for the drag link. That seemed to feel right during reassembly. Getting the strut towers out was easy (I used an air tool with an 18 inch extension and a deep socket (17mm I think) on the top tower bolts ) but plan to spend some time removing and reinstall the electrical harnesses and clips on the towers. It's all very straightforward though.

Savings from dealer quote - almost $1700.

In the end the dealer fixed my oil leak at no cost under the transferrable 100,000 powertrain warranty by replacing the oil pan (there is a GM SB on that) and the truck now drives, rides and handles like a dream - I love it! - and it does corner like a sports car.

Edited November 10, 2018 by Bultaco956

TJay74 · November 10, 2018

i would swap the wheels/tires 1st since you have that planned before you swap out the magride system. That truck will ride rough with those 22" wheels even on the normal suspension system.

midwestdenaliguy · November 10, 2018

I ended up swapping out wheels and suspension all at once. Here's my write-up on it...

Juanito · April 24, 2019

In need of some help here guys! I have a 2015 Sierra Denali. 1500 5.3L 2wd. My front struts are trash... I ordered the bilstein kit for my truck. 5100 series. My rears went on just fine, the fronts on the other hand will not go thru the strut mount or the washers/cups. (Washer that sits on top of the small steel ring on the stem few inches below threads) and also the washer that sits on top of mount under the stem nut... Serious help !!!