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Yukon Axle Shafts Ordered


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Ive done 3 road force balances, 2 rotations, a driveline balance and yukon shafts. My 70mph range vibration is still there.

Only thing I can think now is the actual tires just suck.

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8 minutes ago, JRoyPDX said:

Ive done 3 road force balances, 2 rotations, a driveline balance and yukon shafts. My 70mph range vibration is still there.

Only thing I can think now is the actual tires just suck.

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Same as me man 4 tire balances new rims new tires toyo open country at2 and XD bully wheels road force balanced, yukon axles added airbags put lift blocks in then took them out and i know now . After speaking to my drive line guy i will be ordering a new steel driveshaft . I could redo my Backlash with a new ring and pinion but i rather not . 

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Kylerbr1- You just confirmed what I was thinking when I had it apart.  I was going to buy shims to re-shim the gears but the differential shop said no don't do that the gears will burn up.  I know I never would have let my diff leave my garage with the specs it has....  pathetic.  The ban-aid idea I've been toying with is running a 75/140 gear oil to help with the excessive B/L our diffs have. 

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7 minutes ago, FL335i said:

Kylerbr1- You just confirmed what I was thinking when I had it apart.  I was going to buy shims to re-shim the gears but the differential shop said no don't do that the gears will burn up.  I know I never would have let my diff leave my garage with the specs it has....  pathetic.  The ban-aid idea I've been toying with is running a 75/140 gear oil to help with the excessive B/L our diffs have. 

You might be right i am just worried about messing up the factory locker because they are super finicky...

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17 hours ago, FL335i said:

Kylerbr1- You just confirmed what I was thinking when I had it apart.  I was going to buy shims to re-shim the gears but the differential shop said no don't do that the gears will burn up.  I know I never would have let my diff leave my garage with the specs it has....  pathetic.  The ban-aid idea I've been toying with is running a 75/140 gear oil to help with the excessive B/L our diffs have. 

I just got off the phone with two very reputable rear end shops both said you could adjust backlash without any issue . 

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Hey FL335i i have been reading your post and i had left a couple comments after i had put my axles in i have experienced much better road feel like yourself . But i still have a vibration like yourself . I dropped my truck off at my local driveline shop and had talked to them for a couple hours about the vibration and the backlash in the rear end . So all in all they had checked my backlash and said it was out of specification. They also said my drive shaft was slightly out of balance . I talked to them about the steel driveshaft and that a lot of people have had good luck with them . What they had told me was that the reason everyone is experiencing a fixed "Chevy Shake" is that the heavier steel shaft helps keep pre load on the ring and pinion so at highway speeds you wont experience the shake . He was saying with the aluminum shaft they are so thin they resonate easily even if i was to balance my shaft he thinks i will still have a issue because of the backlash . Thought i would just share this info with yourself seeing as we are both at the same point with our trucks. 

I rarely drive my truck over 70mph and didn’t notice the shake with my 3.42 gears. After getting 4.56 gears, the shake was pretty obvious at 70mph. One of the most reputable shops in the area installed my gears and replaced all of my bearings with Timkens. They echoed all that has been said on this thread and notified me the original gears weren’t properly shimmed. They also said it’s a pretty common finding on our trucks.

 

I upgraded to a 5” diameter, 0.125” thick aluminum driveshaft with the goal of increasing the critical speed rather than to address the shake. I also installed the Raybestos police rotors. After installing these components, the shake was nowhere to be found up to 85mph (hadn’t driven any faster).

 

Two months ago, the truck’s frame was bent in a crash and replaced. Part of the frame replacement required all suspension components to be removed and reinstalled. Every single bolt was torqued to spec and marked with paint across the bolts.

 

There is no shake up to 100mph and I won’t drive any faster (it should be noted that at that speed with 4.56 gears the driveshaft is spinning the equivalent RPM as a 3.42 gear driving at ~120mph). I’m running Cooper STT Pro 275/65R20. It’s a 34” diameter, wide-lug tire when new. The wheel/tire combo weighs 115lbs each.

 

I wish I would have been more methodical in evaluating the results of each change I made to the vehicle to determine exactly which component solved the shake and at what speed.

 

There may be a lot of merit to the theory that steel driveshafts would help eliminate the shake. In my case, the truck is performing great with an upgraded aluminum shaft.

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11 hours ago, 300 Blackout said:

I rarely drive my truck over 70mph and didn’t notice the shake with my 3.42 gears. After getting 4.56 gears, the shake was pretty obvious at 70mph. One of the most reputable shops in the area installed my gears and replaced all of my bearings with Timkens. They echoed all that has been said on this thread and notified me the original gears weren’t properly shimmed. They also said it’s a pretty common finding on our trucks.

 

I upgraded to a 5” diameter, 0.125” thick aluminum driveshaft with the goal of increasing the critical speed rather than to address the shake. I also installed the Raybestos police rotors. After installing these components, the shake was nowhere to be found up to 85mph (hadn’t driven any faster).

 

Two months ago, the truck’s frame was bent in a crash and replaced. Part of the frame replacement required all suspension components to be removed and reinstalled. Every single bolt was torqued to spec and marked with paint across the bolts.

 

There is no shake up to 100mph and I won’t drive any faster (it should be noted that at that speed with 4.56 gears the driveshaft is spinning the equivalent RPM as a 3.42 gear driving at ~120mph). I’m running Cooper STT Pro 275/65R20. It’s a 34” diameter, wide-lug tire when new. The wheel/tire combo weighs 115lbs each.

 

I wish I would have been more methodical in evaluating the results of each change I made to the vehicle to determine exactly which component solved the shake and at what speed.

 

There may be a lot of merit to the theory that steel driveshafts would help eliminate the shake. In my case, the truck is performing great with an upgraded aluminum shaft.

What brand aluminum shaft are you running if you dont mind me asking ?

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Backlash?  Guys, your gears aren't going to cause the shaking/vibration type that we're experiencing.  Humming and whining are more indicative of a backlash issue.  This shaking we're all experiencing is related to a rotating mass (axles, tires, wheels, brake rotors, driveshaft, etc).  Even pinion angle would have more of an effect than backlash.

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2 hours ago, hirdlej said:

Backlash?  Guys, your gears aren't going to cause the shaking/vibration type that we're experiencing.  Humming and whining are more indicative of a backlash issue.  This shaking we're all experiencing is related to a rotating mass (axles, tires, wheels, brake rotors, driveshaft, etc).  Even pinion angle would have more of an effect than backlash.

Excessive backlash causing vibrations in the very thin aluminum driveshaft is what i am thinking the issue is so yes both the diff and the driveshaft being the issue . 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Just ordered a new aluminum driveshaft from my local driveline shop 5" diameter upgrade should be here in a week will let you guys know if it resolves my vibration issues . 

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On 5/8/2019 at 11:29 AM, Kylebr1 said:

Just ordered a new aluminum driveshaft from my local driveline shop 5" diameter upgrade should be here in a week will let you guys know if it resolves my vibration issues . 

How much $$

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